Even before the official launch of its second-hand service, Soeur had already recorded strong interest from thousands of customers. The French premium womenswear brand invited its clientele to participate in this new initiative, which went live on Feb. 26. As part of the project, the label, acquired last year by the Style Capital fund, has introduced a “Second hand” tab on the homepage of its e-commerce site.
Soeur launches its second-hand offer on February 26. – Soeur
The initiative, which took several quarters to develop, was created in collaboration with resale specialist Faume. Customers can drop off their old pieces at Soeur boutiques.
“We take back all products from collections after 2021, provided they are not damaged. Customers receive a voucher that, for the launch phase, is worth approximately 50% of the product’s full-price value,” explained Freja Day, Soeur’s general manager. She also noted her surprise at the overwhelming customer interest in the initiative.
Launching a second-hand platform remains a bold move as brands continue to refine profitability models for resale. “We approached this project more from a CSR conviction,” said Day. “This has been on our radar for some time, but before, we were too small to take on such a complex initiative. Now, we’re in a better position to absorb it. We started by working on material certification and factory audits, then trained our teams on the Climate Fresco. We’ve built collective expertise on these issues. It’s an important topic and one that resonates internally. I also see it as a long-term brand positioning strategy. Soeur has always promoted a timeless vision of fashion—classic with a subtle twist, designed to stand the test of time. This project allows us to demonstrate that commitment.”
For Day, the initiative also reinforces the creative vision of Domitille Brion, Soeur’s creative director and co-founder. The 52 Soeur boutiques trained their staff to assist customers with the resale process, while logistics and final product preparation are managed by Faume, which also works with brands like Ba&Sh, Ami, and Isabel Marant.
Soeur’s director sees an opportunity to offer an alternative to major resale platforms like Vinted and Vestiaire Collective. “I believe we’re taking a different approach. Customers bring their items to the store, where our team verifies them, and they can immediately use their vouchers toward the new collection. Compared to online platforms, this is a more convenient process. We offer an in-store drop-off service, which is ideal for customers who don’t have the time or prefer not to handle the resale process themselves,” said Freja Day.
This service, paired with a voucher positioned as “advantageous” for customers, is expected to help the brand establish a foundation for this new initiative. “This is a key element. It will take several weeks to fine-tune operations across different boutiques. The mechanics need to fall into place, the site must become engaging, and we need to offer between 100 and 200 items to make it appealing to customers. “Collection will be essential for this,” admits the CEO of the label, which saw its sales rise by 25% last year, surpassing the €65 million mark in 2024.
Soeur
Priced lower than new items, these products could attract a new clientele while also offering a fresh appeal to the brand’s loyal customer base. “We have certain pieces that sell out very quickly, and we rarely reproduce them identically. Through our second-hand offering, customers will have the opportunity to find these rare pieces”.
According to the economic observatory of the Institut Français de la Mode, second-hand fashion already represents 12% of the French market. A recent consumer survey revealed that 32% of shoppers who have purchased second-hand believe new products are too expensive and now prefer pre-owned items. Introducing a second-hand offering allows the brand to adapt to this rapidly growing trend, particularly among younger consumers.
Still strong growth prospects in 2025
Despite the second-hand segment not representing a significant share of Soeur’s revenue by 2025, the brand remains focused on expanding its international presence. Currently, 35% of its sales come from online channels, and it is actively working on establishing a stronger foothold outside France.
The opening of a flagship store in Milan by the end of the year, spanning 200 square meters over three floors, is a testament to these ambitions. “We’re ahead of our targets. We see that customers are navigating very well in the different universes expressed,” says Freja Day. The brand has identified its ideal store size as over 100 square meters and plans to open new flagship locations in England, Spain, Italy, and Belgium following a successful 2024 in London. Additionally, five to six store refurbishments are scheduled each year in France.
Soeur is accelerating collaborations with key accounts and multi-brand partners to strengthen its international market position. As part of its long-term growth strategy, the brand is also gaining momentum in Asia, particularly in China, Japan, and South Korea.
The CEO, who focuses her investments on creative teams to introduce distinctive elements to the market, is aiming for further double-digit growth in 2025 despite market uncertainties. Freja Day forecasts a 20% increase in sales.
Conscious fashion brand Lucy & Yak is expanding its sustainability programme by taking its in-store Re:Yak workshops online to allow more customers to “return, recirculate and recycle their well loved Yaks”.
Lucy & Yak
Customers can now exchange old products for vouchers to spend either online or in any one of Lucy & Yak’s 11 UK stores.
Through the new online service, items will either be resold or upcycled and repaired by Lucy & Yak’s in-house experts. The mended items will be available for purchase through Lucy & Yak’s stores, online or at The Outlet in Castleford. There will also be limited one off items such as hand embroidered pieces from the Re:Yak Studio.
Lucy Greenwood, co-founder of Lucy & Yak, said: “When [we] launched… in 2017, we realised that, if we wanted to be truly circular, we had a responsibility for the lifecycle of anything we created, even after the customer has ownership of the piece.
“In 2023 we launched our first buyback scheme in our shops, which was a huge success and instantly highlighted the demand for an online presence. Now, rebranded as PreLoved, this has been a real passion project and I can’t wait to see it expand into further regions in the future.”
After a “transformative” fiscal 2024, Hammerson said Wednesday (26 February) the commercial property giant is now “repositioned to drive growth”. With key destinations in the UK, France and Ireland (including 10 city locations ranked in the top 20 of all retail venues across its geographies), it was “another record year” of leasing, up 56% and 13% over estimated rental value (ERV).
Bullring
Occupancy also improved to over 95%, with few leasable units in most locations, “driving rental tension across our portfolio”.In the year, 262 leases were signed on 1m sq ft of space generating annual headline rent of £41m, “another record performance” on a like-for-like basis.
It also described occcupier demand as “robust” with £8.6m of headline income already exchanged in 2025, 10% above previous passing rent and 11% ahead of ERV. There is also “good visibility and a strong pipeline for the remainder of 2025, underpinning our confidence in the outlook”, it stressed.
And performance in key trading periods stood out. It said Black Friday, Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve all saw year-on-year increases of 10-12% for all its flagship destinations. For instance, its Westquay mall had 112,000 visitors on the Saturday of Black Friday weekend, its highest number since November 2017.
There was also good footfall momentum to report in the final quarter, “reflecting new openings and seasonal events”, with UK footfall up 17% quarter-on-quarter, also up 16% in Ireland and by 5% in France. That meant hosting 170 million visitors across its destinations (+600,000).
Investment in its Bullring and Dundrum centres has also paid dividends, generating £184 million of rent “benefiting from [the] halo effect of repositioning”.
This included the repositioning of Cabot Circus and The Oracle in 2024, already securing £52 million of rent contracted. Investments will see marquee openings in 2025 such as M&S at Cabot Circus, and TK Maxx at The Oracle.
Rita-Rose Gagné, chief executive of Hammerson, said: ‘In landing the pivotal sale of Value Retail and completing our non-core disposals, we have generated £1.5 billion of cash proceeds over the last four years, materially strengthening our capital structure, and enabling investment for growth in our high-quality portfolio.
She added: “Cities are engines of economic growth, and we have concentrated our portfolio on exceptional assets in some of Europe’s fastest growing and most vibrant cities. The flight to quality where occupiers want fewer and more productive stores in only these locations, enables us to attract leading global and local brand partners.
“The physical experience has become more relevant for consumers and our brand partners, with at least 80% of all retail transactions touching a store.”
And its FY25 outlook? “We will see marquee openings in Cabot Circus and The Oracle as we bring major new uses to each of these assets, matching our experiences and building momentum at Bullring and Dundrum.
“We have already secured £8.6m of leases in 2025, the pipeline is robust, and discussions are progressing on other acquisitions.
“Notwithstanding the uncertainty in the macroeconomic environment, our portfolio is well positioned to drive rental growth and earnings from the high demand for scarce, relevant space where brands are consolidating.”
Ahead of its US physical retail entry and wider growth plan, Gymshark has promoted Kim Dolder, general manager of North America, to the additional role of chief commercial officer.
Kim Dolder
Becoming the retailer’s first board member to be based in the US, Dolder will continue to operate out of New York, reporting to founder and CEO Ben Francis and leading Gymshark’s US office.
Dolder, who joined the sportswear brand last May, will see her additional role to ensure the business “has the single architecture in place to become a fully omnichannel enterprise”.
She will also be responsible for “driving revenues, introducing new products and scaling its business channels”.
Dolder said: “Gymshark has had an unbelievable 12 years as, predominantly, an e-commerce company, but it’s no secret that we are pivoting to become an omnichannel organisation.
“So to step into the CCO’s shoes and play a role in evolving the incredible brand we’ve built so far, building our retail footprint and expanding our wholesale and franchise partnerships is beyond exciting.”
Francis added: “If we are to become an iconic 100-year brand, there are two things we can’t compromise on — being global and being omnichannel. To achieve them, we need a chief commercial officer who can be the architect to create the blueprint to get us there.
“I can think of no one better than Kim to step into this role. Kim is our first chief based in the US, so this serves as a real sign of intent of our global ambitions. Since joining, she has already added so much value to our North American operations and her experience, insight and sheer will to win will definitely take Gymshark to new heights.”
Last week, the company announced it will debut a US flagship store in New York later this year. The 13,000 sq ft Bond Street unit will be its third flagship after London’s Regent Street.
Last June, it moved its North America headquarters to New York and welcomed over 7,500 members to its biggest ever sporting event in the city the following month.