New figures from the analysts at GlobalData show that both Shein and Adidas grew strongly last year, ending as the big winners among the mega-names of global mass fashion and sports.
Bloomberg
GlobalData said that a “challenging economy made consumers more selective over where they shopped for apparel in 2024”.
Overall, the top 10 players in the market are forecast to have gained share, “as shoppers remained loyal to brands that they could trust, while smaller players lost their footing”.
The winning brands “offered superior value for money and style, while those with lacklustre ranges lost out. Unsurprisingly, Shein was the biggest winner again”.
Pippa Stephens, senior apparel analyst, said its market share is forecast to have surged by 0.24ppts to 1.53%, “driven by its ultra-low price points and fast reaction to fashion trends, which helped it stay ahead of competitors despite the continued criticism regarding its labour practices and environmental impact”.
Its rapid rise has taken share away from other fast-fashion online pureplays, “especially ASOS and boohoo.com, which have seen their sales plummet over the past few years”.
DR
But while Shein was the leader in growth terms, other major names also saw their market share shedding in the right direction. Inditex’s Zara remained an “outperformer, with its market share expected to have grown 0.05ppts to 1.24%, helped by its local supply chain allowing it to react swiftly to new fashion trends and its appeal among a broad demographic of shoppers”.
That came as its biggest rival H&M’s market share is forecast to have fallen marginally to 1.06%, “as its more neutral and lacklustre designs struggled to capture consumers’ attention”. H&M “has been losing shoppers to Uniqlo as well, which is forecast to have grown its market share to 0.92%, due to strong value for money perceptions and significant expansion outside its home market of Japan”.
And Adidas? In sportswear, after experiencing a notable slump in sales in 2023, it had “a triumphant year in 2024, with its total apparel market share anticipated to have grown 0.17ppts to 1.79%, bolstered by the popularity of its Originals lifestyle footwear ranges”.
Other sports labels that won share were New Balance and Skechers, “boosted by their comfortable and versatile footwear, as well as their multitude of popular collaborations”.
Nike’s problems last year were well publicised and despite having the biggest share of any of the brands mentioned in the report, that share is anticipated to have dropped 0.15ppts to 2.85%, “making it the biggest loser in the overall apparel market in 2024, as it fell behind in terms of innovation and fashion credentials”.
AFP
Stephens added that another market with much-talked-about issues in 2024, luxury apparel, “also saw a mixed bag of results. Those catering to ultra-wealthy customers remained the most resilient, with Hermès and Chanel both forecast to have gained market share to 0.55% and 0.59%, respectively, due to high-income consumers being less vulnerable to economic hardships”.
In contrast to this, aspirational shoppers, who tend to rely on their savings to afford status symbols, were much harder hit, causing more accessible luxury brands to suffer.
Admittedly, “accessible” in this case still means fashion selling at the kind of prices most consumers couldn’t come ear to being able to afford. Gucci, for instance, experienced the biggest downturn, with its market share anticipated to have dropped 0.10ppts to 0.38%.
UK retail sales volumes are estimated to have risen by 1% month-on-month in February 2025, the Office for National Statistics said Friday.
Reuters
That was a surprise (but a pleasant one) and came after they’d risen 1.4% in January, although that was revised down from a rise of 1.7% in its last bulletin so the February figures aren’t yet set in stone.
Even more encouraging, non-food store sales volumes “grew strongly” in February, with rises across all four store type sub-sectors (department, other non-food, clothing, and household goods stores), while supermarket sales volumes fell back following a strong rise in January.
More broadly, sales volumes rose by 0.3% in the three months to February 2025, compared with the three months to November 2024, and by 2% when compared with the three months to February 2024.
Looking more closely at non-food stores, they rose by 3.1% over the month. This put their monthly sales volumes at their highest level since March 2022. Household goods stores rose by 6.8%, their largest monthly rise since April 2021, with hardware stores having the largest upward contribution.
Within other non-food stores, watches and jewellery stores grew strongly over the month. Retailers in this industry reported increased demand for gold because of wider economic uncertainty.
Clothing stores also rose in February 2025, but didn’t fully recover from their 2.7% fall in January 2025. Increased discounting and falling clothing prices may have contributed to the increase in sales volumes.
Meanwhile, online sales (by value rather than volume) rose by 3.3% over the month and by 3.9% year on year. However, they fell by 3.1% when comparing the three months to February 2025 with the three months to November 2024.
Expert views
What did analysts and insiders think of the numbers? Jacqueline Windsor, head of retail at PwC UK, said the figures continued the bounceback seen in January and highlighted how fashion in particular responded to the widespread discounting reported by ONS in its inflation figures earlier in the week.
She also noted how online sales penetration increased to 26.5%, underscoring the slow and steady trend toward e-shopping that was boosted by store closures during the pandemic but then had looked at risk at some points after the pandemic.
Oliver Vernon-Harcourt, head of retail at Deloitte, added: “A second consecutive month of retail sales growth, particularly the better-than-expected results for February, should be reassuring for many retailers. Despite the cold weather, consumers still looked to upgrade their wardrobes… There are still headwinds for both consumers and retailers. However, spring is well and truly around the corner.”
And Jacqui Baker, head of retail at RSM UK and chair of ICAEW’s Retail Group, was upbeat, saying: “Resilient retailers have dusted themselves off after a challenging December and seen incremental growth at the start of the year. Consumer confidence is improving and widespread discounting has tempted consumers to spend.
“Good news for jewellers in February, which had a strong month with a 20% annual jump in sales, which could be linked to a gold rush due to rising inflation and economic uncertainty.
“This week’s Spring Statement didn’t fundamentally change anything for retailers, but it did confirm that disposable incomes look set to continue to increase. If this feeds through into consumer spending, then the upward trend in sales could help to mitigate the imminent post-Budget headwinds that are due to hit in April.”
Meanwhile, from within retail, Shopify’s Deann Evans, the firm’s EMEA MD said that Valentine’s Day shopping “will no doubt have helped to drive this growth, with our data revealing perfume, make-up and houseplants to be among the most popular choices. Interestingly, classic gifts like flowers and chocolates took a backseat this year.There has also been a consumer focus on outdoor spending, perhaps indicative of spring’s arrival and warmer weather. Consumers are clearly keen to shake off the winter blues and get out to enjoy the warmer weather, or at least prepare for it.”
And Jim Rudall, head of EMEA at marketing and email platform, Intuit Mailchimp, made a good point that while February may not be a major shopping month for some categories, it’s a “key month for marketers, bringing the first calendar commerce moment of the year in the form of Valentine’s Day. The industry will therefore be pleased to see encouraging positive sales figures recorded last month.
“If our 2024 data is anything to go by, Valentine’s Day can often set the tone for the month as a whole. Indeed, the first significant uptick in campaigns identified as Valentine’s Day-themed was on 1 February, as marketers started the month in earnest.”
Japanese performance brand Asics and Parisian fashion label A.P.C. have unveiled a new tennis-inspired collaboration, blending sport and lifestyle pieces in a unisex capsule set to launch globally on April 5—two months ahead of Roland Garros. This marks the second collaboration between the two brands, following an earlier golf-themed release.
The designs are influenced by the Japanese layering tradition, Kasane Asics – Asics
After exploring golf, A.P.C. is now serving tennis. The Paris-based studio has partnered with Asics to create a line inspired by the preppy aesthetic of the 1970s. With clean cuts and A.P.C.’s signature minimalist edge, the performance collection includes 20 pieces for both men and women—ranging from dresses and sleeveless tops to tees, shorts, and sports bras. The apparel is complemented by co-branded versions of the Gel-Resolution X A.P.C. and Solution Speed FF 3 A.P.C. sneakers.
On the court, performance pieces lead. Off the court, lifestyle takes over. Artistic director Judith Touitou has added her signature relaxed touch to the collection, featuring Gel-Kayano 14 A.P.C. sneakers and accessories like a denim racket tote made from Japanese organic cotton with a front pocket to hold your racket. The capsule plays with Kasane-inspired layering details and references traditional Japanese Shibori dyeing techniques. A.P.C.’s logo is seamlessly integrated with Asics’ emblem.
A mix of lifestyle and athletic pieces defines the collection – Asics
“This is our first complete tennis collection, and partnering with A.P.C. felt natural,” said Camille Eberhard, head of apparel at Asics. “Our teams worked closely to create a line that merges performance and style, giving athletes both confidence and freedom of movement. The court-ready looks combine timeless elegance with technical innovation, while the lifestyle range carries that same spirit into everyday wear.”
Judith Touitou, A.P.C.’s artistic director, added: “We wanted to design silhouettes that feel as pure as possible—highlighting the beauty of Asics athletes in motion. We carried that same mindset into daily life, adding a playful note through our gradient print on the nylon pieces.”
Asics tennis athletes will wear pieces from the collaboration during major European tournaments in the coming months.
Bags brand Cambridge Satchel has been owned by French company Chargeurs for almost three years now but its store activity has remained focused on its domestic UK market. Not any more though.
The heritage satchel brand has opened its first international store in Paris as it continues it expansion strategy following its Covent Garden, Cambridge, Leeds and Windsor openings. And more international openings are promised.
The made-in-Britain label has opened a 50 sq m store situated in the heart of Le Marais in the French capital, at Rue Vielle du Temple. And in line with the French debut, for the opening period, the contemporary space has been adapted to resemble a French bakery with exposed stonework brick walls and tiled flooring. The locker-style shelves and trolleys are filled with both French pastries and Cambridge Satchel’s leather pieces.
The store carries a range of the women’s and men’s collections, including classic satchels, crossbody bags, handbags, tote bags and backpacks. As well as the SS25 collection, there are collaboration pieces including bestsellers such as The Hello Kitty Face Tote and The Binocular Bag from the Wicked Movie.
Completing the collection is a range of small leather goods from purses and notebooks to passport and card holders. There are also two exclusive charms, one featuring a croissant and the other a Paris love heart.
CEO Carine de Koenigswarter called the opening “a key moment for Cambridge Satchel… Paris being the capital of fashion, it was the obvious choice for our first store out outside of the UK. We chose Le Marais as it is a historic district in Paris, known for its rich cultural heritage, charming streets and vibrant mix of shops, galleries and restaurants – a perfect spot for our first French store.”
She added that after Leeds opened late last year and Windsor in January, the Paris store “is a key part of our Phase 1 expansion plan. Following this we be looking to open in other key cities across Europe and internationally.”