Thom Browne, the American luxury label known for its sharp tailoring and owned by the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, is undergoing a leadership shift. The brand has appointed Sam Lobban as its new chief executive officer (CEO), recruiting him from Nordstrom, where he currently serves as executive vice president and general manager of the Apparel & Designer division. The British executive is set to join Thom Browne in early September, taking over from Rodrigo Bazan, who has held the role since 2016 and is stepping down “to pursue new opportunities.”
Sam Lobban – Thom Browne
“Sam Lobban is an innovator in merchandising and has notably secured collaborations at Nordstrom with major brands, including Thom Browne,” the Italian luxury group stated. Lobban began his career in 2010 at Selfridges in London, before joining the founding team of online fashion retailer Mr Porter a year and a half later. He remained there until 2018, then moved to Nordstrom in 2019, where he rapidly advanced through leadership roles.
The Italian company thanks Rodrigo Bazan, recalling that under his leadership, “the company reached sales of 315 million euros in 2023, with 116 directly operated stores worldwide, becoming a symbol of contemporary luxury made-to-measure.”
“Under Rodrigo’s leadership, Thom Browne’s sales have almost tripled since our acquisition. We thank him for laying the foundation for our future growth,” comments Gildo Zegna, CEO of the Zegna Group, which acquired the label in 2018. “Rodrigo’s entrepreneurial vision, as well as his essential role in defending Thom Browne’s intellectual property rights against Adidas, have helped protect and strengthen the brand’s authentic and unique identity,” he continues.
While Thom Browne has enjoyed exponential growth in recent years, the brand had nevertheless begun to slow down, and this change of guard was to be expected. In 2023, the label saw its sales fall by 17.2% (-20.8% in organic terms), to 314.8 million euros, while its adjusted operating profit reached 27.3 million euros, with a margin of 8.7%, compared with 15.5% a year earlier.
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The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.