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Saks bonds worth just 1 cent hand hedge funds a painful lesson

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Bloomberg

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January 16, 2026

At first glance, Saks looked like exactly the kind of mess hedge funds love. Just months after the company borrowed $2.2 billion to finance its takeover of rival Neiman Marcus, the newly formed luxury retail powerhouse was already running short on cash. Creditors spooked by the pace of the slide rushed for the exits, offering the bonds for less than 40 cents on the dollar.

Saks bonds’ value dropped to just 1 cent – REUTERS/Angelina Katsanis

Bargain hunting hedge funds gleefully took the debt off their hands. This was, after all, a marquee name with valuable brands, prime real estate, big-name backers, and a business that executives said just needed a bit more time to steady itself. Firms including Pentwater Capital Management and Bracebridge Capital jumped in, chasing the promise of eye-popping returns.

Much is still to be determined in the wake of Saks’ bankruptcy this week, including any recovery for its creditors. Yet in the meantime, the episode is shaping up to be a painful lesson in the dangers of trying to catch a falling knife. The bonds that distressed-debt shops snapped up on the cheap are now being bid at less than 1 cent, according to broker runs. The hundreds of millions in extra financing they provided, which sits higher in the repayment pecking order, isn’t faring much better, changing hands around 10 cents.

Through Saks’ Chapter 11 filing, a clearer picture has emerged of a company that quickly veered off plan. Targets were missed, savings failed to materialise, cash drained at a rapid clip, and fixes meant to stop the bleeding never did. Bonds with roughly $486 million of face value held by Pentwater are now quoted at pennies on the dollar, as are about $257 million held by Bracebridge.

“This was a ticking time bomb, and the fuse was lit the day the merger was consummated,” said Mark Cohen, the former director of retail studies at Columbia Business School. “I’ve never seen anything go bad this fast; I don’t know that anyone has.”

A representative for Saks declined to comment beyond the company’s bankruptcy filing. Pentwater and Bracebridge declined to comment. Even after the staggering declines, Saks’ biggest creditors aren’t ready to throw in the towel.

In its bankruptcy filing, the company said it had secured roughly $1.75 billion in post-petition financing, including $1.5 billion from a group of senior secured bondholders betting a second act could yet salvage the retailer- and their own fortunes, possibly by converting battered debt positions into significant equity stakes. 

Some will also collect fees for helping arrange the financing. What’s more, the structure of the post-bankruptcy financing Saks has lined up could allow certain debtholders to realise better returns on the company’s outstanding bonds than where they’re currently trading, some investors suggested.

Pentwater and Bracebridge are among those putting up more money, according to people with knowledge of the matter.

Whether it’s enough to turn around a company that burned through more cash than it generated last year remains to be seen. Perennially late payments have “damaged trust” with Saks’ suppliers, the retailer said in bankruptcy documents, and while new management is working to repair those relationships, some vendors may decide to take their business elsewhere.

The company is also facing stiff objections from unsecured creditors, including Amazon.com Inc., that are seeking to block access to the new financing package. The tech giant, which previously acquired a $475 million preferred equity stake in the luxury retailer, recently called its investment in Saks “presumptively worthless.” Other equity holders including Rhone Capital and Insight Partners also suffered significant losses, separate people familiar with the situation said.

Representatives for Amazon and Insight Partners didn’t respond to requests for comment. Rhone Capital declined to comment.

Some investors who opted not to participate in the latest debtor-in-possession financing were concerned that the rescue could echo other recent misfires. They pointed to First Brands Group, the bankrupt auto-parts supplier whose lenders put up more than $1 billion post bankruptcy, only to watch their super-senior bonds crater in value as the company burned through the cash and signalled it would need even more money.

With rescue financing, “you get a lot of structuring fees, an above-market interest rate, liens on the best collateral, an equity cushion below you, with the added upside that you’re in control as the restructuring process plays out,” said Rishi Goel, the global head of distressed debt at Aegon Asset Management. 

“But it’s got to be structured correctly. The equity value below you has to be real,” Goel said. “If you’re misled, or the business is worth less than you thought or becomes worse than you thought, the value can dry up quickly.”

For now, Saks has said that stores under all its brands are open. A number of creditors say they are confident that new management, led by former Neiman Marcus Chief Executive Officer Geoffroy van Raemdonck, can steer the company through bankruptcy and, once it emerges, make its portfolio of luxury department stores profitable.

Not everyone is convinced. “The rationale for putting these two businesses together made no sense form the get go, and it’s hard to believe that these deep-pocketed masters of the universe fell for it,” Cohen said.



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Milan Fashion Week opens menswear season with Zegna

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January 16, 2026

Milan Fashion Week’s menswear season kicked off Friday afternoon with a grand show and ground-breaking collection from a powerhouse brand- Zegna. Presented inside Palazzo del Ghiaccio, a giant, all-white ice-skating rink in east Milan, redesigned like a giant gentleman’s dressing room, where the cast walked out of huge closet doors.

Creative director Alessandro Sartori’s take on Zegna’s brand heritage – FashionNetwork.com

 
Creative director Alessandro Sartori played with the house’s codes of refined elegance, even as he subverted them- with tailoring innovations and novel materials. Like his brilliant new Horizontal Three jacket, a snug double-breasted blazer, with a hidden third button that can be used to expand the garment into a far looser silhouette.
 
In terms of fabrics, Alessandro dreamed up a new blend of cashmere and paper- seen in check cardigan jackets. Devoid of interior pockets and with an unexpected hand, they hung perfectly.

The show invitation was a playing card, revealing the collection’s title- Memorie. A riff on the deep history of the brand, which has just named brothers from its fourth generation– Edoardo and Angelo– as new co-CEOs, 115 years after the label was founded in Trivero, Italy. This also referenced Alessandro Sartori’s own memories of his father, who died when he was a young boy.

Monochrome layers at Zegna
Monochrome layers at Zegna – FashionNetwork.com

 
“One of my strongest emotions was my dad putting on a suit or jacket. When I later found photos of him, I rediscovered my father through his clothes,” explained a wistful Sartori. 
 
The show was also the latest example of smart storytelling by this designer, who presented an early 1930s suit made for founder Ermenegildo Zegna in an Australian wool fabric woven at his own mill. Encased in a museum glass box at the entrance to the show, with a sign that read: Abito 1– or ‘First Suit.’
 
Staged on a classically cloudy January in Lombardy when a chill humidity seeps down from the nearby Alps, the collection looked ideal for the conditions. Notably, a beautiful series of Donegal tweed style speckled beige and brown suits. Worn with fine wool shirts finished with leather buttons. 
 
No other major Italian tailoring brand has been as courageous as Zegna in pivoting an historically business suits-driven business into the new era of casual luxury. A key reason it could do so is the talent of its creative director Alessandro Sartori.

Zegna's latest suits
Zegna’s latest suits – FashionNetwork.com

 
That said, he produced multiple modernist suits in wide yet subtle stripes, cut with large, notched lapels. And showed multiple great coats with forgivingly softer shoulders. Natty yet always noble and worn on a cast of multiple generations, parading around the carpeted floor.
 
Backed up by a soundtrack that blended Nick Cave’s Into My Arms with Max Richter’s In The Garden, this was as polished a fashion statement as one could imagine. As Sartori kept stretching the Zegna DNA without ever snapping it.
 
“I am the custodian of the Zegna family wardrobe,” smiled Alessandro post-show. Before- for his next trick- trying on a Horizontal Three to show how the technique worked to much applause.

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Italian menswear label Mulish mulls S Korea expansion, sister label Bharnaba growing fast

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Translated by

Nicola Mira

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January 16, 2026

Italian menswear label Mulish is thriving. Owned by the eponymous company and based in Campania, Mulish staged an event during the Pitti Uomo 109 show in Piazza degli Strozzi in Florence, to assert its premier role in the contemporary menswear scene.

Mulish, Fall/Winter 2026-27

“We’re a company that has been in business for nearly 30 years, we’re well established in Italy, and we have a know-how deriving from years of experience in garment-making and men’s tailoring. We grew significantly in 2025, in Italy and especially abroad,” said Diego Di Flora, speaking to FashionNetwork.com at the Florentine event.

Di Flora is the creative director of Mulish and now also of the company’s other label, Bharnaba. “We’re very well-known on several foreign markets, thanks also to campaigns featuring VIP brand ambassadors like [football manager] Luciano Spalletti and [actor] Raul Bova. Retail-wise, we don’t operate monobrand stores, working instead with wholesale distributors. Mulish currently has over 100 wholesale clients, in Italy and abroad. We recorded double-digit revenue growth in 2025, and we’d managed to grow even during the Covid period. At that time, we launched a women’s line for a season, an experiment that was a great success,” said Di Flora.

Mulish now produces menswear only, and the hero product of its Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection is the Field Jacket. “We began with men’s outerwear, our main expertise is in that category. Womenswear requires a more varied, extensive range of garments, so we decided to refocus on our primary know-how,” said Di Flora.

Mulish, Fall/Winter 2026-27
Mulish, Fall/Winter 2026-27

Mulish still generates 70% of its revenue in Italy (“40% in Northern Italy, where, weirdly, we’re selling more than in the South,” said Di Flora). The company, whose labels are positioned in the ‘affordable quiet luxury’ segment, is now keen to export a larger volume of its Italy-produced, Neapolitan-style men’s tailoring collections overseas. “We’re already present throughout Europe, and we’re considering entering South Korea within a couple of years,” said Di Flora.
 
Mulish has expanded its occasionwear range, a segment “that is selling very well, especially [outfits] for bridegrooms,” according to Di Flora.

Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27
Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27

Mulish has 30 direct employees and a network of 400 collaborators. The company runs another label, Bharnaba, which exhibited at Pitti Uomo for the first time in the show’s January 2026 edition.
 
“It’s a Mulish-style label, but with a younger vibe,” said Di Flora. “Prominent in [Bharnaba’s] Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection are deconstructed jackets, tailored coats and double-breasted jackets. At the show, we launched the Bharnaba safari jacket, while the trousers, previously styled with a classic drainpipe cut, now feature darts and softer, more generous lines,” he added.

Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27
Bharnaba, Fall/Winter 2026-27

“[Bharnaba] was created in 2021, and is growing much faster than Mulish, thanks to a young audience that appreciates its style. The label’s signature garments are constantly reinterpreted with well-balanced volumes, new sartorial constructions and painstaking attention to detail. For example, we lightened up the structure of double-breasted jackets, giving them a more fluid fit, while Bharnaba coats are distinctive for their clean lines, refined materials and a perfect balance between meticulous design and a contemporary mood,” concluded Di Flora.

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Heavenly Feet expands retail network with Joe Browns and Amazon partnerships

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January 16, 2026

UK sustainable fashion footwear brand Heavenly Feet has taken a major step forward in expanding its retail network via deals with fashion retailer Joe Browns and digital giant Amazon’s retail platform.

Heavenly Feet

The brand said the new women’s footwear tie-ups will take its total independent and national retail partners to more than 400 across the country.

It said the expansion “represents a key step in Heavenly Feet’s growth strategy and its mission to offer stylish, comfortable and affordable footwear for women”.

Ken Gray, director at Heavenly Feet, told the businessdesk.com: “Since its launch more than 20 years ago, building a diverse and resilient stockist network has been central to Heavenly Feet’s long-term strategy. Working closely with trusted retail partners has allowed the brand to grow sustainably while reaching customers in the places they already love to shop.”

He added: “The partnerships with our new retailers follows a period of strong momentum for the business, including the opening of our first bricks-and-mortar store last year and the launch of our exclusive wide and curvy fit range [last] summer.

“[As these] new partnerships form part of the brand’s ongoing strategy to strengthen its presence both online and through independent retailers nationwide, we [plan to] continue to… work alongside even more retailers in 2026 and beyond.”

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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