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Saks bonds worth just 1 cent hand hedge funds a painful lesson

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Bloomberg

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January 16, 2026

At first glance, Saks looked like exactly the kind of mess hedge funds love. Just months after the company borrowed $2.2 billion to finance its takeover of rival Neiman Marcus, the newly formed luxury retail powerhouse was already running short on cash. Creditors spooked by the pace of the slide rushed for the exits, offering the bonds for less than 40 cents on the dollar.

Saks bonds’ value dropped to just 1 cent – REUTERS/Angelina Katsanis

Bargain hunting hedge funds gleefully took the debt off their hands. This was, after all, a marquee name with valuable brands, prime real estate, big-name backers, and a business that executives said just needed a bit more time to steady itself. Firms including Pentwater Capital Management and Bracebridge Capital jumped in, chasing the promise of eye-popping returns.

Much is still to be determined in the wake of Saks’ bankruptcy this week, including any recovery for its creditors. Yet in the meantime, the episode is shaping up to be a painful lesson in the dangers of trying to catch a falling knife. The bonds that distressed-debt shops snapped up on the cheap are now being bid at less than 1 cent, according to broker runs. The hundreds of millions in extra financing they provided, which sits higher in the repayment pecking order, isn’t faring much better, changing hands around 10 cents.

Through Saks’ Chapter 11 filing, a clearer picture has emerged of a company that quickly veered off plan. Targets were missed, savings failed to materialise, cash drained at a rapid clip, and fixes meant to stop the bleeding never did. Bonds with roughly $486 million of face value held by Pentwater are now quoted at pennies on the dollar, as are about $257 million held by Bracebridge.

“This was a ticking time bomb, and the fuse was lit the day the merger was consummated,” said Mark Cohen, the former director of retail studies at Columbia Business School. “I’ve never seen anything go bad this fast; I don’t know that anyone has.”

A representative for Saks declined to comment beyond the company’s bankruptcy filing. Pentwater and Bracebridge declined to comment. Even after the staggering declines, Saks’ biggest creditors aren’t ready to throw in the towel.

In its bankruptcy filing, the company said it had secured roughly $1.75 billion in post-petition financing, including $1.5 billion from a group of senior secured bondholders betting a second act could yet salvage the retailer- and their own fortunes, possibly by converting battered debt positions into significant equity stakes. 

Some will also collect fees for helping arrange the financing. What’s more, the structure of the post-bankruptcy financing Saks has lined up could allow certain debtholders to realise better returns on the company’s outstanding bonds than where they’re currently trading, some investors suggested.

Pentwater and Bracebridge are among those putting up more money, according to people with knowledge of the matter.

Whether it’s enough to turn around a company that burned through more cash than it generated last year remains to be seen. Perennially late payments have “damaged trust” with Saks’ suppliers, the retailer said in bankruptcy documents, and while new management is working to repair those relationships, some vendors may decide to take their business elsewhere.

The company is also facing stiff objections from unsecured creditors, including Amazon.com Inc., that are seeking to block access to the new financing package. The tech giant, which previously acquired a $475 million preferred equity stake in the luxury retailer, recently called its investment in Saks “presumptively worthless.” Other equity holders including Rhone Capital and Insight Partners also suffered significant losses, separate people familiar with the situation said.

Representatives for Amazon and Insight Partners didn’t respond to requests for comment. Rhone Capital declined to comment.

Some investors who opted not to participate in the latest debtor-in-possession financing were concerned that the rescue could echo other recent misfires. They pointed to First Brands Group, the bankrupt auto-parts supplier whose lenders put up more than $1 billion post bankruptcy, only to watch their super-senior bonds crater in value as the company burned through the cash and signalled it would need even more money.

With rescue financing, “you get a lot of structuring fees, an above-market interest rate, liens on the best collateral, an equity cushion below you, with the added upside that you’re in control as the restructuring process plays out,” said Rishi Goel, the global head of distressed debt at Aegon Asset Management. 

“But it’s got to be structured correctly. The equity value below you has to be real,” Goel said. “If you’re misled, or the business is worth less than you thought or becomes worse than you thought, the value can dry up quickly.”

For now, Saks has said that stores under all its brands are open. A number of creditors say they are confident that new management, led by former Neiman Marcus Chief Executive Officer Geoffroy van Raemdonck, can steer the company through bankruptcy and, once it emerges, make its portfolio of luxury department stores profitable.

Not everyone is convinced. “The rationale for putting these two businesses together made no sense form the get go, and it’s hard to believe that these deep-pocketed masters of the universe fell for it,” Cohen said.



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After Newbie UK rollout, Kappahl Group expands to Iceland

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January 16, 2026

Expanding Nordic fashion firm Kappahl Group is to open eight signature stores and one Newbie kidswear store in Iceland with the venture marking its first franchised operation with partner LKA 19.

KappAhl

“Icelandic customers have long asked for our strong brands, and now that we’ve found a fantastic partner, the timing is perfect to enter the Icelandic market,” said Kappahl Group CEO Elisabeth Peregi, explaining the ambitious expansion into the small (400,000 population) country that also comes with major tourist numbers (2.25 million visitors last year).

She said the expansion into exploring the franchise concept “feels extra exciting to do this with such a well-established and skilled partner as LKA 19.”

The openings are planned for spring 2027 with the stores fully operated by LKA 19, with all staff employed by the franchise partner. LKA 19 will also manage the e-commerce sites Kappahl.is and Newbie.is.

LKA 19, which also operates franchises for Mango and Swedish fashion chain Gina Tricot in Iceland, noted plenty of demand for Kappahl and Newbie’s “strong” brand awareness  in the country. It added: “We have admired [both brands] for many years — not only for their Scandinavian design and quality, but for their values, sustainability leadership, and genuine respect for families and co-workers.”

 

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Onitsuka Tiger opens first dedicated production facility

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January 16, 2026

As Asics-owned Onitsuka Tiger continues to grow its international presence, including a new flagship store in London, closer to home, the Japanese sports footwear brand has invested in its first dedicated production facility in Tottori, the coastal prefecture in Japan’s southern Honshu.

Onitsuka Tiger

Called the ‘Onitsuka Innovative Factory’, the new facility “integrates the entire lifecycle of creation — from material development to design and production — under one roof”.

It will also act as a cultural hub, “showcasing Onitsuka Tiger’s brand vision and the artistry of Japanese craftsmanship to a global audience”. 

The facility will collaborate closely with the Milan Design Center — Onitsuka Tiger’s international creative headquarters — and The Asics Institute of Sport Science, “which focuses on pioneering research in advanced sports technology”.

The facility will also strengthen production for “high-value-added footwear”, including the globally ‘Nippon Made’ series and the formal leather shoe line ‘The Onitsuka’. It will also mark the brand’s first venture into leather bag production, “further expanding its creative horizons”.

It also comes with an adjacent gallery to showcase rare archival pieces and exhibits “highlighting the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship” while the Onitsuka Gallery Store also opens, marking the brand’s first retail presence in Tottori Prefecture.

The store will offer selected Nippon Made products produced at the factory, alongside a custom-order shoe service.
 

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Etam names Undiz’s current head Marie Delahaie as group’s next managing director

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January 16, 2026

Laurent Milchior, president of the family-owned lingerie group Etam, has chosen to promote from within to lead the group’s flagship brand. The departure of Marie Schott, deputy managing director since her return to the French company in 2023, was announced in November and takes effect at the start of 2026. Marie Delahaie, current managing director of Undiz, a role she has held since mid-2024, will take the reins at Etam in May, the group told FashionNetwork.com.

Marie Delahaie – Undiz

Since her arrival, the 40-year-old has significantly transformed the Undiz brand, overhauling its image and setting out a plan to renovate more than 150 stores across France. The executive is a product specialist who gained her first experience in the luxury sector at Lanvin and Balenciaga. She joined the Etam group after holding roles at Zadig & Voltaire and Lacoste.

“Marie Delahaie’s appointment as Etam’s managing director forms part of a growth trajectory and renewed ambition. Her ability to build and carry a brand vision, her exacting standards in execution and her management approach, grounded in cross-functional collaboration and the strength of the collective, have already proved their worth at Undiz,” says Laurent Milchior in a press release, while the group adds that he will serve as interim managing director of the brand and that Marie Delahaie will begin refining her vision for Etam from February, while retaining her current duties as managing director of Undiz.

As the group searches for a new leader to head Undiz, the group’s second-largest brand, which is said to account for almost a quarter of its sales, Marie Delahaie is expected to keep a close eye on its progress.

“I would like to thank Laurent Milchior for his confidence. I am delighted to be joining Etam from May. This transition begins immediately, with the aim of collectively building a clear vision, true to the brand’s DNA, while supporting its momentum. I will also remain fully committed alongside the Undiz teams to ensure robust continuity and to support the continuation of the work under way.”

According to management, she will “play a key role within the Etam Group’s lingerie governance, in order to guarantee the strategic coherence between Etam and Undiz and to preserve the complementary nature of their positioning.” The group reported revenue of €892 million with its Etam and Undiz brands, as well as Maison 1,2,3 and Ysé, and is a shareholder in the Livy brand.

“This change in governance will also strengthen the strategic complementarity between Etam and Undiz, with their differentiated and complementary positioning, in the service of coherent, high-performance development within the group,” adds Laurent Milchior.

There will be numerous challenges for Marie Delahaie, as Etam accounts for more than half of the French group’s activity and faces the rollout of its new store concept, the scaling up of its responsible offering, the integration of new tools to build its ranges, and the defence of its French home turf, where the lingerie market is in decline in 2025, as well as asserting its positions in its main export markets.

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