The eighth sale by the British auction house Kerry Taylor, hosted in partnership with Maurice Auctions in Paris, offers a selection of more than 400 avant-garde fashion pieces and accessories, split into two sessions (at 10.30am and 3.00pm on November 6). The second session will be devoted entirely to the ‘Penelope Archive’ collection by Roberta Valentini, a leading figure in the development of fashion in Italy.

With her avant-garde boutiques in Italy, Roberta Valentini is internationally recognised as a pioneer and trendsetter, and has assembled a collection of 237 rare pieces in excellent condition. These were pieces that Valentini — who in the 1970s was the first to bring names such as Margiela and Rei Kawakubo to Italy — deemed too important to sell, choosing instead to preserve them as a testament to fashion history and to her personal vision.

By contrast, the first session will present around 200 lots from various sources, including a significant collection of Maison Martin Margiela pieces, as well as a selection of designs by John Galliano for Christian Dior and for his eponymous brand. The sale will also offer a wide selection of ready-to-wear and leather goods from Chanel and other major maisons.

Roberta Valentini (whose birth name is Cesarina; she changed it as an assertion of her identity) began her career in the fashion world in 1969, working in the family footwear business. After her father’s death, she and her sister opened a small boutique in Contrada Cavalletto in Brescia, offering cutting-edge fashion to an increasingly discerning clientele. Today she runs three boutiques in Brescia: ‘Penelope’, ‘Boysloft’ and ‘Penelope Sposa’.

Describing herself as a “disruptor”, Roberta Valentini has become a true style icon, recognised for her flame-red hair, and has been invited to prestigious events, including dinners with the British Royal Family.

Highlights among the top lots at the Paris auction of the ‘Penelope Archive’ include: from Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal, a papier-mâché gilet, white label, spring–summer 1990, made from layers of advertising posters (estimated at €15,000–€25,000), as well as a top made from a plastic bag, a spring–summer 1994 reissue (€4,000–€6,000). From Yohji Yamamoto, a grey-and-silver striped silk taffeta suit, spring–summer 1999 (€3,000–€5,000), and a rare hat in wood and black felted wool, autumn–winter 1991–1992 (€1,000–€1,500). From Vivienne Westwood, the auction will feature a suit in wool, velvet, and faux fur, autumn–winter 1996–1997 (€700–€1,000).

In the first half of 2022, the Paris-based auction house Maurice Auctions entered into a partnership with London-based Kerry Taylor Auctions. Together they organise two annual sales devoted to fashion and haute couture, with a highly curated selection.