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Retailers lose online momentum as Shein, Temu and Vinted rise

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 15, 2025

As the price gap widens between the mid-market and entry-level segments, fashion retailers have seen their online sales decline since the start of the year, according to the retailer panel and consumer barometer published by the Institut Français de la Mode, which coincides with the release of France’s mid-year e-commerce figures.

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Fashion retail contracted by 0.9% over the first seven months of the year, with a 1.4% decline in physical retail not offset by 0.8% growth in online sales. This contrasts with 2024, when online fashion sales increased by 1.7% and physical sales declined by 0.7%, resulting in overall clothing retail growth of just 0.1%.

From the second half of 2021 to the first half of 2024, online clothing sales posted declines, which Fevad (the e-commerce federation) described as a “reflux” following the sharp accelerations of 2020 and 2021. Even so, between January and July 2025, online clothing sales were 9% higher than in the same period of 2019.

In 2025, IFM introduced a barometer that surveys 1,250 consumers representative of the French population each month. While this new tool cannot yet track changes in purchasing behavior, it provides a snapshot of the leading platforms as of the first half of 2025.

In volume terms, the French spent the most on Vinted (in-store or online) when buying clothing. The Lithuanian site ranks ahead of Kiabi, Amazon, Decathlon and Shein. It is followed by H&M, Galeries Lafayette, Bershka, Adidas, Carrefour, Intersport, E.Leclerc, Zara, Auchan and Temu.

“We can therefore see that sport, ultra-fast fashion and the major platforms are strongly represented in this ranking,” said Gildas Minvielle, director of IFM’s Economic Observatory. “This is also true of hypermarkets and supermarkets, which remain important even though their share of clothing sales is lower than it was twenty years ago.”

Widening price gap between players

The ranking is accompanied by average purchase price levels per platform, as reported by the consumers surveyed. Shein and Temu each average 9 euros, not far from Kiabi (13 euros), Vinted (14 euros) or hypermarkets such as Carrefour (16 euros) and E.Leclerc (17 euros).

IFM

Data from the retailer panel also show that mass-market chains (Kiabi, Gémo) proved more resilient in the first half (+0.6% and +10.7% online) than specialist chains such as H&M, Zara, Celio and others (-1% and -0.6% online).

“The gap between the mid-market and the entry level is widening,” summarized Gildas Minvielle. “And some long-established players are finding it very difficult to position themselves against an entry-level segment where prices are lower than before because of ultra-fast fashion and, in part, second-hand.”

IFM estimates that Shein and Temu now generate 16% of online fashion purchase volumes. The two Chinese ultra-low-price players also capture 5% of fashion purchases across all channels.

E-commerce, second-hand and promotions

When it comes to buying clothes, 30.7% of spending now takes place online. That level is close to the 34.9% spent during sales and promotional periods. In addition, 11.9% of fashion purchases are now made on second-hand sites.

IFM

These three purchasing modes nonetheless reveal in detail the marked disparities between generations. The share of online sales rises to 34.7% among 18-to 34-year-olds, compared with 22.5% among those aged 55 and older. Second-hand accounts for 17.8% of purchases by 18-24-year-olds, compared with 4.8% among those aged 55 and above.

And while the latter make 35.8% of their purchases during sales and promotions, that share falls to 31.9% among those aged 18-34. They are now more likely to spend online than to buy during discount periods. This trend may be further amplified by new players whose prices are already very low.

Most targeted site types

IFM figures also show that, for online fashion purchases alone, multibrand platforms such as Amazon and Zalando take 47% of the market. Brand and retailer sites are not far behind, capturing 35% of sales, compared with 18% for specialist second-hand platforms such as Vinted and Vestiaire Collective.

IFM

While men and women buy in equal proportion on multibrand platforms, the consumer survey shows that 21% of women’s purchases are made on second-hand platforms, compared with 15% for men, who direct 38% of their spending straight to brand and retailer sites. This suggests that female consumers are more comfortable with second-hand, but also that there is still potential in the men’s second-hand segment.

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Gieves & Hawkes opens new store as it returns to Bath

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December 10, 2025

Frasers Group’s Gieves & Hawkes brand is continuing to expand at retail and has returned to the city of Bath with the opening of a store in the newly redeveloped Shire’s Yard. 

Gieves & Hawkes, Bath

Bath is a key destination for both UK and and international tourists, as well as having an affluent local catchment, so it looks like a strong move for the heritage menswear brand.

The 2 Broad Street store is set across three floors in a prime location at the heart of the city with the company saying the opening is “a significant moment in the brand’s continued celebration of craftsmanship and heritage”.

The space covers 2,085 sq ft and showcases the full breadth of the Gieves & Hawkes offering, from ready-to-wear tailoring and “refined” casualwear to the made-to-measure service for which the label is known.

Managing director Jason Gerrard said of the opening: “Bath is a city where Gieves & Hawkes has enjoyed a longstanding presence and loyal following. The opening of our new store is within the exceptional Shire’s Yard development, and we are privileged to be part of its vibrant community. Our new store represents our long-term commitment to Bath and the Southwest.”

Gieves & Hawkes, Bath
Gieves & Hawkes, Bath

The Bath return is part of an ongoing national expansion strategy. Earlier this year, in a 254-year retail first, the brand opened a store-in-store within Frasers Group’s Flannels flagship in Leeds.

At the time Frasers said the debut “marks a significant milestone in the brand’s history and is a precursor to a wider regional expansion strategy to tap into a desire for craftsmanship, integrity, and authenticity outside of the capital”.

Bath is clearly another step in that journey.

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Marc Cain names Marc O’Polo’s Patric Spethmann its new CEO

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December 10, 2025

German womenswear brand Marc Cain has named a new CEO and it’s clearly preparing well in advance as he’ll take the reins of the business as of June next year.

Dr. Patric Spethmann – MARC O’POLO

He’s Dr Patric Spethmann, who will be responsible for all areas of the business. Helmut Schlotterer, founder and owner of Marc Cain, will remain chairman of the board, “primarily to mentor Patric Spethmann and act as a coach and advisor”.

So what is it about Spethmann that made the company (whose products are available internationally include the US and UK) pick him? He joins from Marc O’Polo, where he most recently held the position of COO. There, his focus was on “optimising internal processes, increasing the efficiency of workflows and organising structures”.

“In Patric Spethmann, we have gained a leader who brings with him many years of experience in the industry. Together, we will set the course for maintaining our brand and values and strategically driving them forward. This puts us in an excellent position for the future and enables us to respond quickly and efficiently to the challenges of the new era,” Schlotterer said.

And Spethmann added: “I am very much looking forward to joining Marc Cain in June 2026. As a leading player in the field of premium women’s fashion, I am particularly impressed by the company’s extraordinary innovative strength and its clear focus on forward-looking technologies. This combination of creativity, quality and progressive thinking makes Marc Cain, in my opinion, a company that sets trends for the entire industry.”

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South Africa’s Mr Price makes European debut through German value retailer deal

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December 10, 2025

South African fashion retailer Mr Price will acquire NKD Group, a German-based discount retailer for up to 487 million euros ($567.55 million), it said on Wednesday, marking its first entry to the European market. By 1030 GMT, Mr Price shares were down 13.35%. 

A shopper pushes a trolley outside a branch of South African clothing and homeware retailer Mr Price, at the Trade Route Mall, in Lenasia outside Johannesburg, South Africa, February 8, 2023 – REUTERS/Siphiwe Sibeko/File Photo

Mr Price said that NKD, an apparel and homeware retailer with 2,108 stores in ⁠seven Central and Eastern European countries, is a strategic fit. Market data indicates that the growth in the value ⁠retail market is outpacing that of the overall retail market. In Europe, value retailing accounts for about 22% of the market.

“After meeting the NKD team, it was ‍evident that ‌this was the right business to pursue,” said the group’s Chief ⁠Executive Officer Mark Blair. “Like ‌us, they are value-retailers at heart and have a very ‌clear understanding of who their customer is and how to best serve them,” he added.

The acquisition of NKD, which is from funds managed by TDR Capital LLP,  includes the purchase of all NKD ‍shares and income from shareholder loans. The deal will be settled using a mix of existing cash reserves and debt facilities, Mr Price ‌said in ⁠a ​statement.

The transaction is subject to regulatory approvals, including clearance ⁠from ​the European Commission and the South African Reserve Bank. It is expected to close by the second quarter of 2026, Wednesday’s statement said.

Once completed, ​Mr Price’s annual revenue would increase to approximately 53 billion rand ($3.12 billion) from 40.9 billion rand, while ⁠the number of its stores would ⁠reach more than 5,000, up from around 3,100,  and it would have more than  40,000 employees.

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