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REI’s new CEO has a plan to turn around the beloved retailer—by going back to its roots

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One of the first public things REI’s new CEO Mary Beth Laughton did upon taking the reins in early spring was to apologize for the outdoor gear retailer’s endorsement in January of President Trump’s candidate for Secretary of the Interior, the agency that oversees public lands like the national parks.

The Seattle area co-op under her predecessor Eric Artz had signed onto a letter by a number of outdoor focused companies backing Doug Burgum with “strong support”, saying it wanted a “seat at the table.” But in his first months on the job, Burgum has called for extracting natural resources from pristine land in Alaska, building housing on public lands and supporting the coal industry, ideas that are anathema for many REI members and employees.

Just shy of two weeks into her tenure as CEO, Laughton posted a video on Instagram saying that “our public lands are under attack.” “Let me be clear, signing that letter was a mistake,” she said. REI’s original position had angered many customers and employees, something it cannot afford at a fraught time for the retailer given the rough patch it going through both in terms of challenges to its business and its often tense relations with store employees, know as Green Vests for the trademark clothing they wear.

“One way to show your values is to show action,” Laughton tells Fortune in her first national media interview as CEO ahead of REI’s annual impact and financial results reports. “At a time our public lands are under threat and values like diversity and inclusion are under threat, we are being clear that we believe those values are essential to our business.”

In recent years, REI, a co-op beloved for its planet-friendly earnestness, store workers always eager to talk camping gear, and advocacy of the outdoors, has slumped, reporting net losses in 2023 and 2022 and sales down 2.4% in 2023. On Thursday, REI, however, reported sales rebounded 6.3% to $3.53 billion last year, but still reported a third annual net loss in a row, which it said stemmed from paying members their annual dividend and costs like advocacy and employee incentives.

Adding to the pressure on the company, some 11 stores in its nearly 200-location fleet have voted to unionize in recent years. As detailed by Fortune last summer, some workers, including some former executives, have worried that REI was becoming too corporate. In recent years the company hired many executives from major retailers, lost many long time insiders, and its board has included executives from companies like ExxonMobil and McKinsey. Board directors serve three-year terms. Nine people sit on the company’s board along with the CEO.

Ahead of Thursday’s annual meeting, the union made clear it would keep the heat on even with Artz out and Laughton in, encouraging employees who are members and therefore can vote to withhold their support in the board elections for REI’s slate of candidates.

The union left a comment on the Instagram video post about the Burgum endorsement reversal saying “So glad to see the new CEO stepping up and taking accountability! Time for a new way forward. Mary Beth, we hope to see you at the bargaining table soon. It’s been 3 years – it’s time to negotiate.” (Laughton says she is “really committed” to negotiating in good faith.)

In a letter to staff on Thursday, Laughton recognized the frictions and laid out some initial steps to improve relations and communications between the rank-and-file and management and the board. “All have made it clear to me that we have a lot going for us. This community values the
outdoors, believes in the co-op, and wants to help shape a thriving future,” she wrote. “But I’ve also heard that we have some work to do to regain the full trust of our community.”

And so it falls on Laughton not to only steer REI, which stands for Recreational Equipment Inc, through a period of tough competition and an uncertain consumer environment, but also extract it from its existential angst.

Repairing relations with the “secret sauce”

Laughton has spent the first two months listening to co-op members (one doesn’t have to be a member to shop there) to understand both what they want from REI as a company in terms of values, but also what they want to buy from it. She’s also getting to know employees, and has visited dozens of stores for a lay of the land. The specifics of her turnaround plan, like new stores, in-store experience, brand assortment, e-commerce features are still to come.

But Laughton, who first became an REI member in the 1990s, says her overarching theme is that REI has to get back to what made it beloved by outdoor enthusiasts in the first place (it was started in 1938 by mountain climbers looking to pool money to get deals on equipment).

“One of the first things is focusing on returning to our roots and putting our members at the center of everything we do,” she says. And calling the Green Vests, REI’s “secret sauce,” Laughton says she wants to keep REI “an incredible place” to work.

At the same time, the two first c-suite appointments since she became CEO have their roots in Corporate America. Her new chief financial officer, Shannon Damen is a former colleague of Laughton’s from Athleta, and new merchandising chief in Kristin Shane is an alum of The Guitar Center, PetSmart and Target.

Laughton makes no apologies for picking top executives from outside REI. “I do need retail experts to help me to lead the future of this brand,” she says, noting that like her, these executives have an “authentic passion” for the outdoors. The CEO cites hiking and kayaking among her most beloved outdoor activities. She also noted that REI has a combination of long-time executives and the newer executives from retail’s giants.

Though she says REI being a co-op gives it an edge—it also has a downside. Every year, members get a dividend, which the company now prefers to call a “member reward”—a store credit equal to 10% of what they spent on full price items the year before. REI has historically given back amounts equivalent to about 70% of profits each year in the form of dividends, employee bonuses, and investments in the outdoor sector. That generosity is core to its mission but it makes REI’s cost structure higher than that of many rivals, giving it less room to maneuver during its turnaround.

And so while Laughton is adamant about enhancing REI’s advocacy and values-based ethos, she sees the need to be pragmatic about it.

“We have to make sure we’re making profits in order to continue to live our values and our purpose,” she says.

This story was originally featured on Fortune.com



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Ulta Beauty secured Beyoncé’s haircare line. Now it’s getting in on ‘Cowboy Carter’ summer

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Good morning! Two female CEOs negotiate a major merger, the Diddy trial continues, and Ulta gets in on Cowboy Carter.

– Most wanted. If you attend a stop of Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter tour over the next several weeks, you’ll see salon-inspired setups promoting the superstar’s new-ish haircare brand Cécred. Beyoncé’s tour has harnessed the power of the stadium to promote everything from her brand to her mother Tina Knowles’ recent memoir.

If you walk into an Ulta Beauty store that same weekend, you may see some similar activations. The beauty giant and Sephora competitor in April signed an exclusive deal to stock Cécred in 1,400 stores. As part of the Cowboy Carter tour, Ulta is hosting in-store events—and helping customers shop Beyoncé-inspired beauty looks.

Ulta’s CFO Paula Oyibo dives into the partnership in a new Fortune interview with my colleague Sheryl Estrada. The relationship demonstrates “how cultural relevance and financial impact can go hand in hand,” Oyibo says.

That’s not surprising to hear when the partner in question is Beyoncé. Her Renaissance world tour grossed $579 million. Cowboy Carter takes Beyoncé to new artistic territory, with its country music and America-themed visuals. It also provides new opportunities for brand integrations; Levi Strauss, already part of the Western-inspired fashion trend, has enjoyed being name-checked in Beyoncé’s song “Levii’s Jeans.” The brand just released a t-shirt with that cheeky misspelling.

Cécred was Ulta’s largest haircare launch ever—and Cowboy Carter is set to be the tour of the summer. In a competitive prestige beauty retail market, it’s smart for the $11 billion retailer to remind consumers that it’s part of that.

Read Sheryl’s full story here.

Emma Hinchliffe
emma.hinchliffe@fortune.com

The Most Powerful Women Daily newsletter is Fortune’s daily briefing for and about the women leading the business world. Today’s edition was curated by Nina Ajemian. Subscribe here.

This story was originally featured on Fortune.com



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The AI training gap: Business leaders expect their employees to use AI at work but they aren’t providing them with any guidance

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Good morning! 

It seems as if every business leader in the world is trying to figure out how to embrace AI to stay competitive in a rapidly-changing tech landscape. But when it comes to effectively incorporating the technology, their workforce expectations are not quite lining up with reality. 

Only 10% of C-suite leaders say that their companies are future-ready, according to new data from The Adecco Group, which surveyed 2,000 people, in a report shared exclusively with Fortune. That lack of readiness is likely the result of shoddy workforce training. While almost two-thirds of leaders expect employees to update their skills for AI, only one-third of companies are providing a clear policy on how employees should be using the technology. 

Caroline Basyn, chief digital and IT officer at The Adecco Group, thinks that the training gap can be partially attributed to “ignorance” on the part of executives. “Leaders need to grasp and understand that AI is going to transform the way we work,” she tells Fortune. “There are some industries that have understood it. There are some industries that have not yet understood the relationship between leveraging AI and the results they will achieve, both in terms of revenue and in terms of productivity.” 

She adds that simply using AI isn’t enough—businesses have to completely rethink their organization and workflow to best harness the power of the technology. “Investing in AI products is potentially only half the battle,” she says. “The whole leadership team, the culture and the learning structure, is as important as developing the product in [and of] itself.” 

The report recommends that leaders act to “create, share, and adhere to a responsible AI framework as a matter of urgency” and ensure that employees are well-versed in the policy specifics. Leaders should also consider “an AI ethics committee, company-wide training, and forum for workers to voice concerns.” 

Basyn says there’s no one-size-fits-all model when it comes to training workers how to use AI, and emphasizes that the training program used yesterday may not work tomorrow. But she says that the more personalized AI workforce training is, the better. 

“We need to make career mobility a reality. We need to make sure that we’re planning for the disruption, and empower the employees to build new skills,” she says. 

Sara Braun
Sara.Braun@fortune.com

This story was originally featured on Fortune.com



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A serial entrepreneur, a musician, and Walmart’s CEO walk into an AI factory…

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