In the textile recycling market, announcements continue to come thick and fast. RadiciGroup and Lycra have unveiled their process for polyamides, Kipas its integrated system for polyester, and Circulose is accelerating its solution for converting cotton into cellulosic fibres.
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Radici and Lycra
Italian chemicals group RadiciGroup, via its R&D division Radici InNova, unveiled on December 16 a new “selective dissolution” process capable of treating garments made from fibre blends, long regarded as end-of-life, non-recyclable waste. Developed in a consortium with The Lycra Company and the Triumph brand, this patented technology uses non-toxic solvents to separate and recover polyamide and elastane as distinct streams. Unlike existing methods, the process preserves the elastic properties of the Lycra fibre, enabling its direct reintegration into high-end spinning cycles.
To demonstrate the industrial viability of this closed loop, the partners carried out a complete proof-of-concept using dormant stocks supplied by Triumph. The extracted materials were transformed into “Renycle” recycled polyamide yarn by Radici, then into new Lycra fibre, culminating in the manufacture of a fully recycled prototype lingerie set. While this pilot project validates the technical feasibility of processing hosiery and swimwear, the focus now shifts to scaling up: Triumph has announced that it is working on its first commercial capsule collection, while the consortium works to establish the traceability systems required for future industrialisation.
Kipas launches Fibr-e
Turkish yarn and fabric producer Kipas has announced the launch of Fibr-e, a molecular recycling solution targeting garments composed of 70% polyester. Developed with chemicals specialist Meltem Kimya, the process breaks down the material to produce GRS-certified “rTEX” granules that are decolourised and reusable without any loss of quality, while delivering an emissions reduction of almost 74% compared with virgin polyester production.
For Halit Gümüser, CEO of Kipas Textiles, this initiative marks the end of mere “pilot projects” and the start of an era of circularity at scale. By directly integrating these regenerated streams into its own spinning and weaving operations, the group intends to guarantee industrial volumes at competitive prices, enabling brands to anticipate tightening regulations. This vertically integrated model is therefore designed to scale up the recycling of heterogeneous textile waste into staple fibres and high-performance yarns.
Circulose confirms its relaunch
Relaunched in 2024 after a challenging period, Swedish manufacturer Circulose is now celebrating the success of its new strategy with the announcement of landmark partnerships with key players in international retail. After H&M, Mango and Marks & Spencer, the company has now brought on board Bestseller, C&A and John Lewis, as well as brands such as Filippa K, Reformation, Faherty, and Bobo Choses.
These long-term commitments aim to reintroduce its patented fibre derived from recycled cotton to the market at scale, positioning it as a direct, industrially scalable alternative to virgin viscose and lyocell (cellulosic materials derived from wood).
For Jonatan Janmark, the company’s CEO, this commercial momentum crowns a year of “strategic reset” and intensive exchanges with buyers. These secured volumes are described as the essential lever for unlocking the next industrial production phase.
French companies Carbios and Rec
In France, recycling projects are also continuing. Carbios, a specialist in the bio-recycling of plastics by depolymerisation, is due to launch work in the first quarter of 2026 on a bio-recycling facility for plastics and synthetic fibres at the Chinese company Wankai’s site (Zhink Group).
Focused on polyamide recycling, Ecollant has rebranded as Rec, and is launching construction of its industrial demonstrator in Burgundy for delivery in the spring.
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The deal was signed by Swinger International, led by Mathias Facchini, and 21 Invest, the private equity fund founded in 1992 by Alessandro Benetton, which acquired a majority stake in the French brand in July 2016, when it was known as 21 Investimenti. Swinger International also owns Genny, produces the Just Cavalli collections and, as of this morning, holds a minority stake in Etro.
Philippe Model, an artist and painter, founded his eponymous label in Paris in 1978. In the 1980s, he created the innovative and highly successful ‘Elastique,’ a comfortable heeled shoe constructed with elastic straps. Throughout his career, he collaborated with leading Parisian designers and houses, including Christian Dior, Claude Montana, Lanvin, and Jean-Paul Gaultier.
The company expanded from haute couture accessories to interior design projects, and in 2008 it was relaunched as a maker of premium sneakers for men and women, with all footwear produced in Italy’s Riviera del Brenta footwear district. Its 2024 turnover is estimated by the business press at around €30 million.
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From 2026, Umbro’s France business will be managed by the Drôme-based group Textiss. The company, led by Sylvain Caire and specialising in men’s underwear, notably develops its Freegun brand, as well as licensed products for Pierre Cardin and Von Dutch. Textiss is taking over Umbro’s footwear and textile licence in France, which had been held by the Royer Group for 10 years.
Textiss takes over Umbro’s footwear and textile licence for the French market – Umbro
“As owner of the Umbro brand, the Iconix Group has decided to entrust the Textiss Group with the textile and footwear licence in France from 2026, a natural evolution that continues the historic relationship between Iconix, Royer, and Textiss,” the group explained in a press release on December 19, adding that Textiss has been Umbro’s underwear and socks licensee in France for a decade.
“In agreement with the Royer Group, the licence will be subject to an organised and carefully managed transition,” said the group. “From January 2026, Textiss will manage orders for the second half of 2026, ensuring a smooth operational handover for all customers and partners.”
The American Iconix Group, a specialist in the licensed brand development model, was seeking a solution for the licence covering the key products of the British sporting goods brand it acquired from Nike in 2012. The Royer Group held the licence after taking it over in 2016.
With the French specialist in the development of footwear and sportswear brands facing difficulties, Iconix ultimately opted for the Châteauneuf-du-Rhône-based group to take on the brand’s key categories. Umbro currently outfits the Le Havre football club, HAC.
Neither the value of the deal nor details of the organisation concerning the teams that have worked or will work on the licence have been disclosed.
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Under Armour Inc. has laid off two employees who worked on Stephen Curry’s shoe and apparel brand and moved others to new jobs as the athletic company winds down its partnership with the basketball star.
Stephen Curry collaborated with Under Armour on branded goods – Curry
The company is disbanding the team that worked on the brand despite plans to sell new Curry merchandise through October, according to a person familiar with the matter who wasn’t authorised to speak publicly.
A spokeswoman for Under Armour said the company doesn’t comment on personnel-related decisions. Representatives for Curry didn’t immediately respond to messages seeking comment.
Last month Under Armour and Curry announced their surprise separation, ending a yearslong relationship that had helped boost sales and draw attention to the brand. Under Armour still plans to release the Curry 13 sneaker in February and says additional colorways and apparel collections will be available through October.
The end of the tie-up adds to growing pressure at Under Armour, whose shares have fallen 45% this year. The company has been trying to stem two years of sales declines by increasing marketing and prioritising core products.
The split came after Curry and his advisers became frustrated with what they considered to be a lack of investment in the brand and sales of the division hadn’t met their expectations or the company’s, Bloomberg News has previously reported.
Under Armour has said it will incur an additional $95 million in restructuring costs in part tied to the separation.
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