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Recycling: three new developments from specialists in materials processing

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December 17, 2025

In the textile recycling market, announcements continue to come thick and fast. RadiciGroup and Lycra have unveiled their process for polyamides, Kipas its integrated system for polyester, and Circulose is accelerating its solution for converting cotton into cellulosic fibres.

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Radici and Lycra

Italian chemicals group RadiciGroup, via its R&D division Radici InNova, unveiled on December 16 a new “selective dissolution” process capable of treating garments made from fibre blends, long regarded as end-of-life, non-recyclable waste. Developed in a consortium with The Lycra Company and the Triumph brand, this patented technology uses non-toxic solvents to separate and recover polyamide and elastane as distinct streams. Unlike existing methods, the process preserves the elastic properties of the Lycra fibre, enabling its direct reintegration into high-end spinning cycles.

To demonstrate the industrial viability of this closed loop, the partners carried out a complete proof-of-concept using dormant stocks supplied by Triumph. The extracted materials were transformed into “Renycle” recycled polyamide yarn by Radici, then into new Lycra fibre, culminating in the manufacture of a fully recycled prototype lingerie set. While this pilot project validates the technical feasibility of processing hosiery and swimwear, the focus now shifts to scaling up: Triumph has announced that it is working on its first commercial capsule collection, while the consortium works to establish the traceability systems required for future industrialisation.

Kipas launches Fibr-e

Turkish yarn and fabric producer Kipas has announced the launch of Fibr-e, a molecular recycling solution targeting garments composed of 70% polyester. Developed with chemicals specialist Meltem Kimya, the process breaks down the material to produce GRS-certified “rTEX” granules that are decolourised and reusable without any loss of quality, while delivering an emissions reduction of almost 74% compared with virgin polyester production.

For Halit Gümüser, CEO of Kipas Textiles, this initiative marks the end of mere “pilot projects” and the start of an era of circularity at scale. By directly integrating these regenerated streams into its own spinning and weaving operations, the group intends to guarantee industrial volumes at competitive prices, enabling brands to anticipate tightening regulations. This vertically integrated model is therefore designed to scale up the recycling of heterogeneous textile waste into staple fibres and high-performance yarns.

Circulose confirms its relaunch

Relaunched in 2024 after a challenging period, Swedish manufacturer Circulose is now celebrating the success of its new strategy with the announcement of landmark partnerships with key players in international retail. After H&M, Mango and Marks & Spencer, the company has now brought on board Bestseller, C&A and John Lewis, as well as brands such as Filippa K, Reformation, Faherty, and Bobo Choses.

These long-term commitments aim to reintroduce its patented fibre derived from recycled cotton to the market at scale, positioning it as a direct, industrially scalable alternative to virgin viscose and lyocell (cellulosic materials derived from wood).

For Jonatan Janmark, the company’s CEO, this commercial momentum crowns a year of “strategic reset” and intensive exchanges with buyers. These secured volumes are described as the essential lever for unlocking the next industrial production phase.

French companies Carbios and Rec

In France, recycling projects are also continuing. Carbios, a specialist in the bio-recycling of plastics by depolymerisation, is due to launch work in the first quarter of 2026 on a bio-recycling facility for plastics and synthetic fibres at the Chinese company Wankai’s site (Zhink Group).

Focused on polyamide recycling, Ecollant has rebranded as Rec, and is launching construction of its industrial demonstrator in Burgundy for delivery in the spring.

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Valentino will not stage its autumn/ winter 2026–27 show in Paris

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December 19, 2025

Valentino is returning home to present its autumn/ winter 2026–27 collection. The fashion house, founded in Rome in 1960 by Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti, announced on December 19 that the show for its next winter collection will take place in March in the Italian capital, at a venue to be announced in due course.

DR

“Rome is an integral part of the maison’s history, and this return represents creative director Alessandro Michele‘s homage to the origins and legacy of Maison Valentino,” read the brief press release.

For one season, the label will step away from the Paris catwalks, but has indicated that it will re-join the Paris Fashion Week calendar as early as its following show.

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Scalpers and Jack & Jones arrive at Forum Montijo in Portugal’s Greater Lisbon

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December 19, 2025

Fashion brands Scalpers and Jack & Jones have both confirmed their arrival at Portugal’s Forum Montijo in December, strengthening the shopping centre’s retail offer for the festive season. Scalpers, known for its premium and irreverent style, and Jack & Jones, which focuses on denim and men’s and women’s fashion, thus join another development already reported by FashionNetwork.com, the opening of the Swarovski jewellery store in the same shopping centre in Greater Lisbon.

Forum Montijo

Both the Spanish Scalpers and Danish Jack & Jones stores are on Floor 1, while the Austrian Swarovski store is on the ground floor. The new stores are joined by two exclusive services to help customers and make their last-minute Christmas shopping easier, according to a statement from the South African company Lighthouse Properties, which acquired the shopping centre (formerly known as Alegro Montijo) in September 2024 for 178 million euros.

“As the year draws to a close, new openings continue to arrive at Forum Montijo. The centre is strengthening its fashion and lifestyle offer with the opening of three new stores from international brands- Swarovski, Scalpers and Jack & Jones- and is launching two new exclusive services to improve the shopping experience during the Christmas season,” the statement continues.

Forum Montijo

“Scalpers strengthens the fashion offer for men and women, with irreverent and contemporary collections that combine style, attitude, and versatility, ideal for those looking for gifts with personality,” the note adds. “Jack & Jones, meanwhile, offers relaxed menswear, where denim takes centre stage, for those who value comfort, trends, and authenticity.”

“Between fashion, sparkle, extra help and experiences for the whole family, Forum Montijo invites you to experience Christmas with less stress and more time for what really matters.”

It should be noted that these openings are part of a strategy to renovate the shopping centre in Greater Lisbon to make Christmas shopping easier, accompanied by new customer support services and inclusive experiences.

The change of ownership and identity is also part of the revitalisation strategy for the space, which includes the arrival of new brands such as Scalpers, Jack & Jones, and Swarovski at the end of 2025.

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China’s HSG buys controlling stake in Golden Goose

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December 19, 2025

Chinese Global investment firm HSG has acquired a controlling stake in Italian sneaker label Golden Goose, in one of the biggest Chinese investments in a European luxury brand.

Inside a Golden Goose location in Milan – Golden Goose

 
Temasek, a global investment company, and a fund managed by its wholly-owned asset manager, True Light Capital, will acquire a minority stake. US investment fund Permira will remain committed as a strategic minority shareholder, continuing its successful partnership with Golden Goose, according to a press release from the Venice-based sneaker brand.

The deal ends months of speculation that Golden Goose was about to be sold to a Chinese investor.

Financial terms of the transaction were not disclosed. The transaction is subject to customary closing conditions and regulatory approvals and is currently expected to close within the summer of 2026. Golden Goose S.p.A. expects its €480.0 million Senior Secured Floating Rate Notes due 2031 to be redeemed in full.
 
Golden Goose has been the fastest growing Italian fashion label in the past half-decade, stunning observers with its exceptional performance. Since 2020, the group has delivered consistent, strong, and profitable growth, with revenues increasing from €266 million in FY 2020 to €655 million in FY 2024. During this period, the group has accelerated its direct-to-consumer (DTC) channels, launched its Forward Store concept, diversified its product assortment, and invested significantly in ‘Co-Creation’ experiences, deepening connections with its customers worldwide. 

'Co-Creation' at Golden Goose
‘Co-Creation’ at Golden Goose – Golden Goose

 
This investment comes amid a period of strong financial performance for Golden Goose. In the nine months ending September 2025, the group reported double-digit growth across regions. Revenues rose 13% year-on- year, driven by 21% growth in its DTC channel and an expanded store network, which reached 227 directly operated stores, up from 97 in 2019. 
 
The investment is underpinned by a strong strategic and cultural fit with Golden Goose’s growth ambitions. Drawing on the new investors’ combined experience and track records investing in international luxury and consumer technology brands, such as Moncler and Ermenegildo Zegna group by Temasek, and ByteDance, Pop Mart, RedNote, and Marshall by HSG, they will support Golden Goose’s international ambitions as a leading next-generation luxury brand, while preserving and continuing to invest in Golden Goose’s Made in Italy roots. 

Silvio Campara, Golden Goose’s hard charging CEO, will continue to lead the group as chief executive officer, alongside the existing leadership team. Marco Bizzarri, currently a non- executive director on the Golden Goose board, will become non-executive chairman. He brings significant industry expertise, shaped by his leadership of globally renowned luxury brands including Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Kering, and will play an important role in accelerating Golden Goose’s next phase of global expansion. 

Golden Goose's CEO Silvio Campara
Golden Goose’s CEO Silvio Campara – Max & Douglas

 
“We are delighted to welcome HSG and Temasek as strategic partners to Golden Goose as we step up our global ambitions as a leading international luxury brand. Their investment is yet another vote of confidence in the success of our model at the intersection of luxury, lifestyle, and sportswear, beloved by a growing, global community of dreamers. With their experience of scaling international leaders across luxury and the broader business spectrum, HSG and Temasek will help us unlock the vast opportunity ahead for Golden Goose. We are grateful to Permira for being integral partners to our successful journey so far and are delighted they will remain valued partners alongside HSG and Temasek,” said Campara. 

“Golden Goose stands for love, empathy, authenticity and a powerful sense of community in today’s luxury landscape,” added Jiajia Zou, Partner at HSG. “We feel deeply privileged to partner with Temasek and Permira, together with Silvio and his talented team to support the brand as it enters its next exciting chapter of growth- especially internationally- while preserving and celebrating what makes Golden Goose so uniquely Italian. We look forward to contributing our global experience, resources, and deep respect for the brand’s heritage, with the shared ambition of bringing the unique joy and spirit of Golden Goose to consumers around the world, for generations to come.” 

In addition, Francesco Pascalizi and Tara Alhadeff, partners at Permira, commented: “Golden Goose has led the way in defining what it is to be a next-gen luxury brand for two decades now. They have built a unique community of GG-lovers around the world whilst also building a robust and high performing business. Against a challenging backdrop for the luxury industry in 2024 and 2025, Silvio and his talented team have continued to deliver strong performance and healthy growth, proving that Golden Goose is a brand that can stand the test of time.”
 

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