That has enabled Ralph Lauren Corp., as well as Coach owner Tapestry Inc., to outperform some European rivals. This is a dramatic reversal of fortune compared with a decade ago, but it’s one that has a solid chance of enduring, even as the luxury giants decide they want their middle-class customers back.
The two US companies have benefited from rampant price increases at the industry’s behemoths, which have alienated many customers. With Gucci and Prada out of reach, shoppers have turned to Ralph Lauren, which stretches from the top-end Purple Label to more premium Polo, as well as Coach, which is perceived as value for money, especially now that it has gotten more trendy. Add in the fact that their biggest market, North America, is leading the luxury revival, and this has created a rare window of opportunity for these semi-luxury names.
But this window may be closing. With the likes of LVMHMoet HennessyLouis Vuitton SE attempting to recapture those they’ve priced out and US consumers looking more fragile in general, Ralph Lauren and Tapestry will have to prove their renaissance is more than being in the right place at the right time.
The odds are good, as their current success has not come about by chance.
Both companies have been repositioning for many years. Ralph Lauren, under Patrice Louvet, chief executive officer since 2017, and of course the creative direction of its founder, has been moving closer to its European rivals. It has focused on products it’s best known for, including cable-knit sweaters, blazers and chinos, improving style and quality. It has invested in its own shops and website, and cut back on selling apparel elsewhere. Where its brands are still on display in third-party stores, it has upgraded the selection and experience, for example through a recent Polo Country capsule for Net-a-Porter.
Even outlet stores, which play an important but undisclosed role in the business, have become more attractive places to shop. And effective marketing, such as dressing the US Olympic and Paralympic teams as well as a successful hospitality business, have created a buzz around the brand.
It’s a similar picture at Tapestry. CEO Joanne Crevoiserat, who took the helm in October 2020, put connecting with consumers, particularly Gen-Z, at the heart of her strategy. This has paid off, with compelling products such as the Tabby bag and most recently the Brooklyn, which has gained the top spot in fashion platform Lyst’s most recent index of the hottest items. Its cherry bag charm underlines another Gen-Z trend that Coach has been quick to jump on.
Consequently, both Ralph Lauren and Coach have been able to expand sales while cutting back on discounting, raising the average price at which products are sold, and bolstering profits.
European competitors are now realizing they pushed prices too far. The most striking example is Louis Vuitton’s reissue of its collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. While many items still retail for thousands of dollars, the line also includes cheaper small leather goods. Advertising featuring actor Zendaya taps into Gen Z’s 2000s nostalgia, while a recent pop-up in London took a leaf from Ralph Lauren’s book with an Instagram-friendly café.
Amid concern that the US consumer is starting to crack and the turmoil of tariffs, it’s little wonder that shares in both Ralph Lauren and Tapestry have slumped over the past few weeks. But US luxury can hold its own.
At Ralph Lauren, women’s apparel is a significant opportunity alongside handbags, with the popularity of the $500 Polo ID bag boding well. While North America accounted for about 47% of revenue in the last quarter, there is scope to expand in Europe and Asia. Longer term, Ralph Lauren could push further into hospitality, for example adding hotels to its restaurants and more than 30 Ralph’s Coffee outposts.
Coach, meanwhile, released the New York range — including the Brooklyn and the Empire — last fall. Another blockbuster would provide a fresh avenue for growth. Its notable that Empire models costing around $700 and $900 have proved popular, potentially giving it scope to stretch its prices, although it must not make the same errors as its loftier peers. Sister brand Kate Spade’s sales are still falling. If Crevoiserat can follow the Coach playbook, she could finally fix the label. It also recently agreed to sell shoe brand Stuart Weitzman. Tapestry walked away from acquiring Capri Holdings Ltd. after a US judge blocked the deal, so we’ll never know if it could have worked its magic on Michael Kors, which continues to struggle.
Right now, there are more pressing matters, such as meeting demand for some of its hottest bags, as my boyfriend pointed out. The viral Empire Carryall in a deep burgundy that he’s been eyeing for months is still sold out. When a Coach bag is as much of a must-have as an Hermes Birkin or The Row’s Margaux, it suggests US luxury can survive the coming bling battle.
New Look is set to relocate to a new 12,120 sq foot concept store at Bluewater mall in Kent on 3 April promising customers inspiration across digital, showroom and display formats.
Located on the Upper Thames Walk, the store will be the fashion retailer’s first omni-hub space “integrating new initiatives to streamline the customer journey”.
The upgraded space is a step forward from New Look’s £3 million investment into its Manchester stores, where it trialled new store designs “to improve product merchandising and better align the shopfloor to New Look’s brand identity”.
Customers will also be able to make use of a dedicated Service Hub “to improve collections and returns for a seamless shopping experience”.
Of course, the new store’s focus is also on providing an extensive range of womenswear and accessories, as well as a menswear showroom. An entire mezzanine floor will be dedicated to its tween/teen 915 collection, which showcases a range of casualwear, sportswear and accessories for girls aged 9-15. To celebrate the official 3-5 April opening period, New Look will be offering the first 200 customers goody bags for spending in-store. Surprise gift cards will also be hidden around the store and a DJ will perform for shoppers. Free incentives with every purchase will include a selection of coffee, bubble tea, and pink hot chocolate. Customers who also spend £50 will have the chance to win prizes from an in-store claw machine. One customer across each of the three days will be chosen at random to win a special shopping bag.
Elaine Cartwright, retail director at New Look, said: ‘Our decision to relocate and re design our Bluewater store demonstrates our commitment to bricks and mortar retailing in the UK & the important part stores play in our communities. Bluewater has been a major retail destination for some time, so showing up in this location with purpose and credibility is an important element of our retail portfolio strategy.”
James Waugh, centre director at Bluewater, added: “We are always looking for ways to elevate our offering so that we remain in step with the ever-evolving retail landscape. [The] relocation exemplifies the brand’s commitment providing Bluewater’s guests with the best possible shopping experience.”
Brands including Prada have cut ties with South Korean actor Kim Soo-hyun amid controversy over his relationship with actress Kim Sae-ron who was found dead in February.
Prada
The 37-year-old actor who gained popularity in South Korea and China over his role in hit South Korean drama series “My Love from the Star” and “Queen of Tears” has been accused of dating Kim Sae-ron when she was underage in a YouTube expose, citing testimonies from the actress’ relatives.
Luxury fashion group Prada said it mutually decided to end its collaboration with Kim when asked in a client service chat on Monday. It did not elaborate further.
Dinto, a South Korean cosmetic brand, also announced it was ending its advertising contract with Kim.
“We have determined that there are substantial grounds rendering the fulfilment of the advertising contract unfeasible,” the company said in a statement on Saturday.
Kim Soo-hyun’s agency Goldmedalist referred to a statement given on Friday, when it denied claims that the two were in a relationship dating back to 2015 when Kim Sae-ron was a minor. She was also managed by the agency, but her contract was not renewed in 2022; the same year that she was involved in a drunk driving incident.
Goldmedalist also said Kim Soo-hyun, who has not commented directly, had been unfairly linked to Kim Sae-ron’s death.
Kim, who was 24 years old, was found dead at her home. Her career had suffered since the drunk driving incident, and local media reported that she was in debt and working part-time jobs to pay it off.
Goldmedalist said the actress owed the company around 0.7 billion won ($483,759.50) in damages and penalties as a result of the drunk driving case.
In 2024, Kim Sae-ron posted a photo of her with Kim Soo-hyun which was quickly deleted, prompting speculation that the two were a couple.
A lawyer representing the relatives of Kim Sae-ron said in a media briefing on Monday that the late actress had decided to post the photo in hopes of hearing back from Kim Soo-hyun.
Italian luxury footwear and accessories brand Santoni has opened a new flagship boutique at 667 Madison Avenue in New York City.
Santoni unveils new flagship boutique on Madison Avenue. – Santoni
Designed by architect and designer Patricia Urquiola, the boutique spans approximately 350 square meters and embodies an architectural concept inspired by the Chrysler Building’s iconic geometric shapes. It is characterized by a warm color palette featuring shades of orange, terracotta and rose with champagne brass details.
Spanning two levels, the boutique presents an airy ground floor with a six-meter-high backlit metal grid ceiling. Three-dimensional paneled walls contribute to a cohesive visual rhythm, while fine Italian marble including onyx and travertine complete consoles, shelves, and partitions. Footwear, small leather goods, and accessories are displayed alongside plush sofas and armchairs.
The lower level was designed to feel like an intimate lounge enveloped in the warm glow of mirrors, and houses the Bespoke Santoni area. Lastly, a dedicated artisanal workshop features a long Rosso Verona marble workbench where shoemakers repair, polish, and resole footwear.
“Opening our new flagship in New York, right on our 50th anniversary, is an extraordinary milestone. It was here, in 1997, that we opened our first boutique, marking the beginning of a story of innovation and growth,” said Santonit, president Giuseppe Santoni.
“Today, our journey extends far beyond men’s footwear, strongly embracing the women’s and accessories segments. An evolution that made a larger space necessary, one capable of embodying our vision and offering the customer not just a place to shop, but a true experience, an authentic encounter with our universe.”
The store opens with an exclusive capsule collection featuring men’s and women’s accessories. The capsule reimagines signature designs such as the Carter wholecut, the Vanguard briefcase, the Marta slingback, and a classic belt.