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Primark has weak quarter in UK, Ireland, but new stores drive other markets higher

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January 23, 2025

Primark owner Associated British Foods has issued an update for the 16 weeks to 4 January 2025 with its retail unit seeing sales down very slightly as weak UK and Ireland ops proved to be a drag on its growth.

Q1 revenue for the Retail division (that is, Primark) was £3.362 billion, which may have been a small 1.9% increase at constant currency but based on actual exchange rates was down 0.4%.

Yet the company seemed pleased with the performance of the division overall saying that it “delivered good growth across our key growth markets, Spain, Portugal, France, Italy, Central and Eastern Europe and the US”. 

Unfortunately, as mentioned, sales in the UK and Ireland declined in the quarter, although with growth in like-for-like sales over the key Christmas period. But this was “more than offset by weaker autumn trading in a challenging retail environment”.

By category, in womenswear, its performance was “most impacted by weaker sales in cold-weather and seasonal clothing, however, we saw strong sales of performance, leisure and nightwear”. 

Sales in both menswear and kidswear grew in the period and its Christmas product range “traded well and we had continued good growth from our Rita Ora, Paula Echevarría and Kem collections, as well as in our licensed products”. 

Markdowns during the period “were managed effectively, which resulted in good inventory levels and supported good gross margin delivery”.

International strength

The UK and Ireland are Primark’s biggest combined market, but other countries have been growing fast and now also account for significant sales figures. 

In Spain and Portugal, which accounted for approximately 18% of sales, they grew 9%, “reflecting good underlying growth in both markets and a strong contribution from recently opened stores”.

That was despite sales in the period being impacted by flooding in the Valencia region of Spain, which led to store disruption with one store still closed. 

France and Italy accounted for around 16% of sales and grew 5%. French growth was driven by recent store openings while in Italy, openings were key too, but that country also saw underlying growth.

Northern Europe makes up 13% of sales and grew 3% in total or 4.9% like-for-like. Strong sales growth in Germany and the Netherlands reflected the recent restructuring of its store footprint, “which has driven much-improved sales densities and profitability. Our growth in Germany also reflects the prior year impact of industry-wide strike action”. 

Central and Eastern Europe accounted for only 3% of sales but grew 22%, driven by recent store openings. During the period, it opened one new store in Czechia and one in Poland.

Meanwhile the US, which is responsible for around 5% of sales, grew 17% as it opened new locations. It now has 29 stores there in total and an additional 17 leases signed.

Domestic woes

Looking more closely at its UK and Ireland business, the sluggish sales here had a big impact as those two markets make up 45% of the retailer’s sales. 

Total sales declined 4% with like-for-like sales down 6%. In the UK specifically, sales declined 4% with like-for-like sales down 6.4% and the overall clothing retail market in the country declined. 

Primark said it saw “cautious consumer sentiment and a lack of seasonal purchasing catalyst given the mild autumn weather”. And its market share decreased slightly to 6.8%.

That said, a weak October and November (two months that were up against strong comparison months from a year earlier) was followed by “stronger sales and like-for-like growth in December over the key Christmas trading weeks”. 

The company doesn’t trade directly online but said its “online participation through Click & Collect in the UK performed well as we drove increased customer awareness and made more of our product ranges available to more customers, particularly those who shop in our smaller stores. We made further progress with the Click & Collect rollout, which is now in 113 stores”.

Store rollouts and outlook

Overall, it “continued to make good progress with the execution of our store rollout programme in Europe and the US, which contributed around 4% to total sales growth in the period. We opened eight new stores, extended one store, right-sized two stores and relocated two stores. We also made good progress with our store refurbishment programme”. 

So what of 2025? It’s now targeting low-single-digit sales growth this year. That will be “driven by our store rollout programme in growth markets in Europe and the US, which is on track to contribute around 4% to total Primark sales growth”.

And despite the market conditions in the UK and Ireland, “we remain confident in the Primark proposition and continue to focus on initiatives across product, digital and brand to drive underlying growth. We continue to expect Primark’s adjusted operating profit margin to remain broadly in line with last year’s level, as gross margins have continued to improve and good cost management offsets inflation and the step-up in investment”.

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Fashion

German retailers see slower sales growth over consumer uncertainty

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January 31, 2025

German retail sales rose in 2024, but growth should be more modest this year due to the high level of uncertainty, according to retail association HDE.

Last year, retail sales rose 1.1% compared to the previous year in inflation-adjusted terms, official data showed on Friday. The HDE forecasts 0.5% growth in real terms this year.

“Consumption and the retail sector in Germany will not really gain momentum in 2025 either,” said HDE managing director Stefan Genth.
“There is simply too much uncertainty,” he said. “Wars, high energy costs and overall economic stagnation are a toxic cocktail for consumption.”

In nominal terms, retail sales rose by 2.5% in 2024 and are expected to grow by 2.0% in 2025, according to HDE’s forecast.

The latest HDE survey with 700 retailers shows that 22% of respondents expect sales to increase this year, while almost half of them expect results to be below the previous year’s level.

In December, retail sales fell by 1.6% compared with the previous month, official data showed. Analysts had predicted a 0.2% increase.

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John Lewis had disappointing festive season

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January 31, 2025

Many big names in UK retail had a good Christmas season — despite the sector being generally sluggish — but it seems John Lewis Partnership (JLP) may not have been one of them.

The retailer — which operates its eponymous department stores and webstore, plus Waitrose supermarkets — has missed its profit target after a disappointing festive season.

It hasn’t shared any info officially but internal documents seen by The Telegraph suggest bad news to come when it does release its results.

Those internal documents have only been shared with staff so far with the company saying that sales have fallen short of expectations and it’s unlikely to achieve its hoped-for £131 million full-year profit.

The company is said to have blamed “lower consumer confidence and weaker than expected market confidence” for the sales miss in the month to 21 December, although also the fact that key trading days fell outside the period.

Sales targets were missed at both of the firm’s chains, although the newspaper said it still claimed it outperformed rivals and staff should be “proud of our performance”.

It will be interesting therefore to see exactly what its figures were as  a number of rivals have actually reported a good Christmas. If its stores have beaten other supermarkets and chains like M&S, perhaps its targets were too ambitious in the first place.

We won’t know for a while, but we do know that with M&S resurgent, JLP’s supermarkets and department stores have lost some of their lustre as the destination of choice for Britain’s middle classes.

So what were the firm’s benchmarks? Back in September it had said it was seeing strong demand and expected a significant rise in profits for the year to January. The prior year’s pre-tax profit had been £56 million and the year before that it made a loss.

It had also talked about its turnaround efforts paying off and that it was seeing a “considerable improvement” in performance, with the John Lewis chain in particular expected to benefit from a buoyant second half.

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Kim Jones steps down from Dior menswear creative helm

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January 31, 2025

Christian Dior Couture announced on Friday that Kim Jones, its Dior Homme artistic director, is leaving the post after seven years.

Dior Men – Spring-Summer2025 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

It’s been rumoured for some time that he would exit the label but it’s not yet known what his next step will be.

Jones has been widely praised for his work at Dior with his latest men’s collection shown this month being hailed as a success.

He’s been a key creative at LVMH having also designed its Fendi women’s collections. And he helmed Louis Vuitton’s menswear before he joined Dior.

The company said it “wishes to express its deepest gratitude” to the designer “who has accelerated the development of Men’s collections internationally and has greatly contributed to the worldwide influence of the House by creating an inspiring wardrobe that is both classic and contemporary, and connected to some artists of our time”.

And Delphine Arnault, who’s chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture, added: “I am extremely grateful for the remarkable work done by Kim Jones, his studio, and the ateliers. With all his talent and creativity, he has constantly reinterpreted the House’s heritage with genuine freedom of tone and surprising, highly desirable artistic collaborations.”

Jones meanwhile called it a “true honour to have been able to create my collections within the House of Dior, a symbol of absolute excellence. I express my deep gratitude to my studio and the ateliers who have accompanied me on this wonderful journey. They have brought my creations to life. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the artists and friends I have met through my collaborations. Lastly, I feel sincere gratitude towards Bernard and Delphine Arnault, who have given me their full support.”

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