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Portuguese label Ementa makes its Paris debut

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December 16, 2025

Just a stone’s throw from the bustle of Paris’ Les Halles, Ementa’s new boutique at 11, rue Montmartre gleams in green. The brand, ‘driven by friendship,’ has been revealing itself there, beyond its stained-glass doorway, since its official opening on December 6. It marks a new milestone for founders Emídio Silva, Nikita Gorev, and Raphael Castilho, whose adventure began amid Portugal’s markets.

Ementa opened its first boutique outside Portugal in Paris – Ementa

Born directly from the skateboarding world, Ementa launched in 2007. The three friends, then students at Academia da Amadora near Lisbon, shared the dream of creating their own label, inspired by the sponsor pieces from their sporting circle. They knew little about running a business, but that didn’t stop them. They took out a loan and financed production of their first thousand T-shirts.

A retail turning point beginning in 2021

By 2021, time had passed, but Ementa remained active. That year, an opportunity arose to open its first boutique at LX Factory in the Portuguese capital. The shop was fitted out almost entirely in the DIY spirit cherished by its founders. Around six months later, Ementa opened a second brick-and-mortar shop on Rua da Boavista, near Cais do Sodré, again in Lisbon.

The majority of its production is based in Portugal
The majority of its production is based in Portugal – Ementa

The third shop opened in 2023: Ementa’s flagship in Chiado, a lively district in southern Lisbon. ‘This project represented a far greater challenge than the previous ones,” the brand notes. “In 2024, we opened a boutique dedicated to collaborations with artists and exclusive collections, located right next to our first boutique at LX Factory,” it continues. The time then seemed ripe for Ementa to venture beyond the capital. On August 10, 2024, it inaugurated its fifth boutique, on Rua Sá da Bandeira in Porto- a ‘major challenge’ for the brand.

A mid-range positioning

This retail journey culminates today with the Paris opening. The brand also works with 27 stockists in total, including seven in France, one in Italy, two in Germany, and two in the Netherlands, with the remainder in Portugal. Its products are therefore available in several European countries. “Our aim is to be represented by avant-garde stockists with a sophisticated image and clear objectives,” says the brand.

Ementa draws inspiration from the world of skateboarding
Ementa draws inspiration from the world of skateboarding – Ementa

Drawing on its skateboarding heritage, the Portuguese brand’s offer spans a wide range of ready-to-wear pieces, including jackets, jumpers, screen-printed sweatshirts and T-shirts, cropped polo shirts, corduroy trousers, jeans, and accessories. As a lifestyle brand, Ementa also offers plenty of scarves, socks, sunglasses, caps, a few pieces of jewellery, and bags. Its prices sit below those of brands such as Palace Skateboards and Drôle de Monsieur, even though the majority of its production takes place in northern Portugal.

Ementa now aims to maintain a rhythm of a drop every fortnight, to bridge the gap between its autumn-winter and spring-summer collections. The brand hopes to continue its retail adventure with new openings, strengthening its existing boutiques, and international expansion.

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Just Over The Top (JOTT) sees shareholders inject nearly €100 million in 2025 in a bid to save the brand

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December 16, 2025

Turnaround specialist Thierry Miremont- who took over as CEO of Just Over The Top (JOTT) this summer– has embarked on an emergency rescue mission. FashionNetwork.com has learned that the brand’s shareholders dug deep in the first half of 2025 in a bid to revive the company.

The brand, which specialises in down jackets, will need to generate significant operating profits over the next two years. – Just over the top

Indeed, L Catterton Europe, which acquired a majority stake in the Marseille-based down jacket brand via a leveraged buyout (LBO) in early 2021, and the other shareholders have approved a 99-million-euro injection to recapitalise the company. This unprecedented decision underscores the severity of the difficulties faced by the business, which nevertheless continued to open boutiques in France in 2024.

The brand, founded in 2010 by Mathieu and Nicolas Gourdikian, who retain a minority stake, has faced a succession of crises that now threaten its very existence. The challenge is no longer simply to finance growth, but to ensure operational survival.

According to documents reviewed by FashionNetwork.com, JOTT’s commercial engine has stalled, leaving the brand with large volumes of stock to clear, eroding its brand image despite significant work on its stylistic proposition. For several seasons, substantial volumes of its down jackets have been offered at knock-down prices, and even sold off on markets.

After a sharp decline in activity at its logistics and distribution company JOTT Opérations in 2023, revenue collapsed again last year by more than 28% to 54.7 million euros. The company attributes this dramatic fall directly to the bankruptcy of its logistics provider at the beginning of 2024- an event that necessitated the urgent relocation of stock and a complex recovery of operations.

The cost of this logistical setback contributed to a deficit of 30 million euros at JOTT Opérations and an operating loss of more than 4 million euros for JOTT France, the company’s own distribution entity. The activities of entities in other markets are also suffering, implying that it remains to be proven that the brand concept can be exported profitably.

Faced with these accumulated losses, the operational companies’ equity turned negative, weakening the company’s structure just as significant instalments were falling due. In 2024, shareholder support helped address this situation, with 18 million euros injected in two tranches. However, this appears to have merely contained the damage, without preventing the massive depreciation of the group’s assets.

Thus, in 2025, the rescue plan faced an impossible equation: operating losses had made the enormous debt contracted at the time of the LBO unsustainable. Specifically, this debt- concentrated in a holding company called Jaguar Bidco- amounts to nearly 156 million euros. Negotiations with creditors, in particular Idinvest Partners and Eurazeo, were, understandably, extremely tight. The shareholder recapitalisation, approved last April, is clearly a vital step forward for the future of JOTT.

A tight agreement with creditors

This 99 million euro injection is not merely about plugging an accounting gap; it is an essential condition demanded by the company’s bondholders to give the business breathing space. In exchange for this major financial effort, creditors have agreed to pause certain financial obligations through a mechanism known as a waiver. However, this breathing space is not a blank cheque. In return for their patience, the creditors attached particularly strict covenants to the agreement. These contractual commitments oblige the company’s management to meet performance ratios quarter after quarter. For the brand, this means advancing under close scrutiny: any failure to meet the trajectory could break the waiver agreement and give creditors the right to demand immediate repayment of their claims, or even to take control of the equity.

If management keeps its commitments, this translates into crucial relief for cash flow: the suspension of interest payments on the debt until the end of 2027, turning immediate cash pressure into future debt. This should enable JOTT to concentrate its resources on the only thing that matters now: selling products.

This reprieve, coupled with agreements with banking partners, gives management, now led by Thierry Miremont, a two-year window to reinvent JOTT’s business model. According to the available information, the strategic plan includes an in-depth transformation of retail.

This transformation involves a painful but necessary rationalisation: the company has already begun closing shops deemed unprofitable, notably in Paris and Bordeaux and across various European markets. At the same time, JOTT is betting on technological modernisation to regain efficiency, accelerating the roll-out of performance initiatives such as an automatic replenishment tool, according to the company’s management. As the brand seeks to increase its share of full-price products, investment appears key: it must ensure that stock- already subject to significant write-downs- is managed as tightly as possible to reduce product obsolescence and maximise margins. One piece of good news? Despite the difficulties, the tax audits carried out in 2024 on Jaguar Topco, the ultimate parent company, and JOTT France concluded without any reassessments in 2025.

The challenge, however, is considerable. The company will have to return rapidly to profitability- probably requiring an annual improvement of several tens of millions of euros- in order to make up the deficit. It will also have to prove to its partners the group’s future viability. Without this operational performance, the brand will not be able to cope with the resumption of debt repayments in 2028.

Management did not wish to answer our questions about the company’s situation. Nevertheless, its teams are hard at work optimising store performance (with a network that has already shrunk to 140 points of sale), strengthening the desirability of the collections and attracting new retailers, notably by preparing to exhibit at the Pitti Uomo trade fair in Florence and Who’s Next in Paris. But despite this operational proactivity, the challenge remains major: to turn the brand around by making it more agile and efficient within a compressed timeframe and against an unfavourable backdrop in both the French and international markets.

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Czech retailer Footshop chooses Paris’ 63 Rue de Rivoli for its French flagship

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December 16, 2025

Czech streetwear specialist Footshop told FashionNetwork.com about its ambitions for the French market. It has now set its sights on Rue de Rivoli in Paris’s 1st arrondissement for its French flagship, FashionNetwork.com has learned. The opening date for this sixth store has not yet been announced.

63 Rue de Rivoli (Paris 1st arrondissement) – Google Street View

More precisely, the retailer has chosen 63 Rue de Rivoli. This address was long occupied by Dutch retailer Naf Naf, which opened there in 2009 and kept it during the downsising of its store network in 2020, up until its partial takeover by the Beaumanoir group last August.

With this address, Footshop secures a 237 square-metre, three-storey store, where the retailer will be flanked by menswear label Delaveine and Ray-Ban on one side, and by Bershka and Uniqlo on the other. Opposite, the building at 126 Rue de Rivoli, previously occupied by C&A, will in 2027 house a Radisson Collection hotel and 3,000 square metres of retail space.

Launched in Prague in 2012 by Peter Hajducek, Footshop will be well placed to attract shoppers from both Forum des Halles and the neighbouring Samaritaine. Aiming to become the European leader in streetwear, the company positions itself as a response to an increasingly discerning customer base.

The brand's flagship in Prague
The brand’s flagship in Prague – Footshop

This approach has prompted Nike, Adidas Originals, Puma, New Balance, Asics, and Birkenstock to collaborate with the retailer, which operates flagships in Prague, Budapest, Bucharest, Bratislava, and Warsaw, but relies primarily on online sales. The company recently said that its digital platforms, Footshop and Queens, are said to have generated 82 million visits and 585,000 downloads in one year.

After achieving sales of 61.6 million euros (75% generated internationally) in 2024, the company is expected to reach 82 million euros in 2025, representing annual growth of 40%.

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US imports of Chinese textiles and clothing slump by 27%

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December 16, 2025

Donald Trump’s new tariffs have not curbed US textile and apparel imports, which held steady at $80.5 billion over the first three quarters. While China, the country’s leading supplier, saw shipments fall by 27% over the period, buyers simply shifted their orders to other Asian countries.

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The publication of these figures was delayed until December by the “shutdown,” which saw the US federal government shut down amid bitter budget negotiations. The consequences of the all-out tariff stand-off launched by the White House in April were widely anticipated; they can now be quantified.

China, the trade adversary singled out by Donald Trump, exported “only” $14.3 billion of textiles and apparel to the US market over nine months. This represents a 27% decline over the January to September period, yet China remains the US’s leading supplier.

Above all, China’s decline masks an acceleration in US orders from its direct competitors. Imports of textiles and apparel from South-East Asia rose by 15.9% to $24.3 billion.

A reshaping of US sourcing

Donald Trump sought to curb the influx of foreign production. In the end, the US president merely succeeded in shifting its origin slightly. To offset the new tariffs, US buyers turned to other countries that were sometimes less heavily taxed and, above all, offered lower production costs.

Vietnam, the US’s second-largest supplier of textiles and apparel, posted a 14.6% increase. In the ranking of suppliers, Vietnam is followed by India, up 10%, and, above all, Bangladesh, with a surge of 18.2%. Strong gains were also recorded by Cambodia (+25.8%), Indonesia (+12.9%), and Pakistan (+9.3%).

Imports from the USMCA area (US, Mexico, and Canada), where political tensions were high, remained broadly stable (-0.9%) at $3.8 billion, of which $3 billion came from Mexican production.

Europe holds steady

The European Union, the seventh-largest supplier of textiles and apparel to the US, posted a modest 1.9% increase to $4.04 billion worth of goods. This is a notable improvement on the 2.6% decline recorded in 2024.

Italy, at $1.9 billion, was stable over nine months, as was Portugal at $469 million. Germany accelerated by 9.3% to $373 million, while France rose by 2.2% to $330 million.

In the Euromed region, US customs figures show a 6.6% drop for Turkish goods, to $1.7 billion. Egypt was up 16.4% to $1.1 billion, while Morocco was down 16% to $177 million and Tunisia up 8.2% to $81 million.

Trends that began in January

This slowdown is all the more evident in light of the figures recorded in 2024. At that time, China exported $26 billion worth of textiles and apparel to the US, an increase of 3.5% that exceeded the total growth of American imports in this field (+2.6%).

After the election of Donald Trump and ahead of “Liberation Day”, the April 2 event marking the announcement of new tariffs, panic gripped US buyers. In the first quarter, they suddenly accelerated their textiles and apparel imports by 9.4% compared with the January to March 2024 period.

China captured only 3.6% of this increase, whereas other countries less targeted by Washington benefited far more from the situation. These included Vietnam (+14%), India (+20%), Bangladesh (+25%), Indonesia (+20%), Cambodia (+15.8%), and Pakistan (+10.5%).

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