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Pitti Bimbo responds to childrenswear market’s evolution

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Nicola Mira

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January 23, 2025

The 100th edition of childrenswear show Pitti Bimbo opened on Wednesday January 22 at the Fortezza da Basso venue in Florence, under a sprinkling of light rain. The show’s centenary edition has been presented as a transformational one, while the childrenswear industry is forced to take stock in the face of slumping consumption. “If you read the number 100 in reverse, it becomes 001,” argued the event’s communication.

At Pitti Bimbo on January 22, 2025 – FNW

Pitti Bimbo brought together 170 exhibitors, 65% of them from outside Italy, and was held over two days, as opposed to three in the past, making it busier. The range of brands on show at the new-look event included, besides ready-to-wear and fashion accessories, also some from the beauty, lifestyle and even food sectors. The latter is a sector that Pitti Immagine, Pitti Bimbo’s organiser, is very familiar with, because its portfolio includes Taste 18, a trade show for the catering industry. By broadening the range of exhibitors, as some of its competitors are doing, Pitti Bimbo is setting out to appeal to concept stores too.

The show’s centenary edition also featured the return of some leading Italian childrenswear names, for example Monnalisa, which had not exhibited since the pandemic. “Childrenswear is a small slice of the bigger fashion industry pie. And the slice is shrinking,” said Matteo Tugliani, CEO of Monnalisa, underlining that the key to continued success lies in boosting client engagement.

Monnalisa came to Pitti Bimbo with a large group of influencer mums and their children, notably seeking to promote the show on social media, ultimately aiming to reach end-consumers. Monnalisa distributes its products online, via the wholesale channel, and through some 40 monobrand stores, and now regards itself as a platform. “We’ve started producing childrenswear collections under licence for the Aeffe group, and we recently entered the second-hand market,” said Tugliani.

According to Leonardo Basagni, managing director of Italian group Miniconf, whose brand portfolio includes Sarabanda and the childrenswear licenses for Ducati and Roy Rogers, the children’s fashion market in Italy remains rather “flat,” but it is streamlining, with smaller players dropping out.

Among other exhibitors were big textile players such as Bestseller from Denmark, which came with four brands, including Only and Name It, as well as new brands like Vélocipède.

The latter was founded in New York by Vitaliy Bukhtulov, and presented a co-ed collection for girls and boys inspired by menswear looks. A successful mix of evergreen and more directional items, designed in Portugal with materials mostly sourced from Nona Source.
 

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Fashion

German retailers see slower sales growth over consumer uncertainty

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Reuters

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January 31, 2025

German retail sales rose in 2024, but growth should be more modest this year due to the high level of uncertainty, according to retail association HDE.

Last year, retail sales rose 1.1% compared to the previous year in inflation-adjusted terms, official data showed on Friday. The HDE forecasts 0.5% growth in real terms this year.

“Consumption and the retail sector in Germany will not really gain momentum in 2025 either,” said HDE managing director Stefan Genth.
“There is simply too much uncertainty,” he said. “Wars, high energy costs and overall economic stagnation are a toxic cocktail for consumption.”

In nominal terms, retail sales rose by 2.5% in 2024 and are expected to grow by 2.0% in 2025, according to HDE’s forecast.

The latest HDE survey with 700 retailers shows that 22% of respondents expect sales to increase this year, while almost half of them expect results to be below the previous year’s level.

In December, retail sales fell by 1.6% compared with the previous month, official data showed. Analysts had predicted a 0.2% increase.

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John Lewis had disappointing festive season

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January 31, 2025

Many big names in UK retail had a good Christmas season — despite the sector being generally sluggish — but it seems John Lewis Partnership (JLP) may not have been one of them.

The retailer — which operates its eponymous department stores and webstore, plus Waitrose supermarkets — has missed its profit target after a disappointing festive season.

It hasn’t shared any info officially but internal documents seen by The Telegraph suggest bad news to come when it does release its results.

Those internal documents have only been shared with staff so far with the company saying that sales have fallen short of expectations and it’s unlikely to achieve its hoped-for £131 million full-year profit.

The company is said to have blamed “lower consumer confidence and weaker than expected market confidence” for the sales miss in the month to 21 December, although also the fact that key trading days fell outside the period.

Sales targets were missed at both of the firm’s chains, although the newspaper said it still claimed it outperformed rivals and staff should be “proud of our performance”.

It will be interesting therefore to see exactly what its figures were as  a number of rivals have actually reported a good Christmas. If its stores have beaten other supermarkets and chains like M&S, perhaps its targets were too ambitious in the first place.

We won’t know for a while, but we do know that with M&S resurgent, JLP’s supermarkets and department stores have lost some of their lustre as the destination of choice for Britain’s middle classes.

So what were the firm’s benchmarks? Back in September it had said it was seeing strong demand and expected a significant rise in profits for the year to January. The prior year’s pre-tax profit had been £56 million and the year before that it made a loss.

It had also talked about its turnaround efforts paying off and that it was seeing a “considerable improvement” in performance, with the John Lewis chain in particular expected to benefit from a buoyant second half.

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Kim Jones steps down from Dior menswear creative helm

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January 31, 2025

Christian Dior Couture announced on Friday that Kim Jones, its Dior Homme artistic director, is leaving the post after seven years.

Dior Men – Spring-Summer2025 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

It’s been rumoured for some time that he would exit the label but it’s not yet known what his next step will be.

Jones has been widely praised for his work at Dior with his latest men’s collection shown this month being hailed as a success.

He’s been a key creative at LVMH having also designed its Fendi women’s collections. And he helmed Louis Vuitton’s menswear before he joined Dior.

The company said it “wishes to express its deepest gratitude” to the designer “who has accelerated the development of Men’s collections internationally and has greatly contributed to the worldwide influence of the House by creating an inspiring wardrobe that is both classic and contemporary, and connected to some artists of our time”.

And Delphine Arnault, who’s chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture, added: “I am extremely grateful for the remarkable work done by Kim Jones, his studio, and the ateliers. With all his talent and creativity, he has constantly reinterpreted the House’s heritage with genuine freedom of tone and surprising, highly desirable artistic collaborations.”

Jones meanwhile called it a “true honour to have been able to create my collections within the House of Dior, a symbol of absolute excellence. I express my deep gratitude to my studio and the ateliers who have accompanied me on this wonderful journey. They have brought my creations to life. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the artists and friends I have met through my collaborations. Lastly, I feel sincere gratitude towards Bernard and Delphine Arnault, who have given me their full support.”

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