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Pepco strong in latest quarter but Poundland sales slid on soft clothing demand

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January 16, 2025

Europe-based value retailer Pepco Group said on Thursday its struggling Poundland business in the UK saw an even worse performance in the Christmas quarter, with underlying revenue down 7.3%.

The company, which also operates the Pepco and Dealz chains in Europe, said group like-for-like revenue fell 1.1% in the final three months of the calendar year, which is its first fiscal quarter. Admittedly, that was better than the 3.5% drop in the previous quarter.

The fall came despite like-for-like revenue rising 1.4% at Pepco itself and an impressive 6.6% at Dealz. Poundland was down 7.3% on that basis.

So why was Poundland so weak? Unfortunately, the problems were cause by ongoing issues in the clothing and general merchandise segment, as well as the challenging market conditions that caused problems for many UK retailers.

Pepco has already said it’s considering strategic options for the 825-store chain but we won’t hear more about that until March.

So let’s look at some of Pepco’s numbers in more detail. Q1 group revenues were €1.9 billion with constant currency revenue growth of 3% versus last year.

On the plus side, group gross margin improved by over 140 basis points year-on-year in Q1 with continued strong progress in Pepco, offsetting significantly lower margins in Poundland.

The group also celebrated its 5,000th store milestone with net new openings of 63 stores across the business in Q1, largely representing openings of Pepco in its core CEE region.

As for the outlook, the company added that “we continue to see a divergence of performance across our brands. We are pleased with the momentum we are seeing in our Pepco and Dealz businesses.

“We remain confident that Pepco will deliver profitable growth during the year, driven by further operational improvements and enhancement of the core customer proposition, supported by a continuing strong gross margin position. 
 
It added: “This compares with challenging trading conditions for Poundland, as previously described, amid a more difficult sales environment and consumer backdrop in the UK, alongside margin pressure and an increasingly higher operating cost environment.

“We expect that the toughest comparative quarter for Poundland is now behind us – the same quarter last year represented a period prior to the changes made within our clothing and GM ranges – and therefore, we expect the negative sales performance for Poundland to moderate as we move through the year.” 
 

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Fashion

Burberry names new exec in charge of tech team

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January 31, 2025

Burberry announced a key appointment on Friday with the luxury business saying it will soon have a new chief information officer.

Charlotte Baldwin

It has appointed Charlotte Baldwin to the role and she’ll join the business at the end of March. Baldwin will be responsible for leading Burberry’s global technology team and will join the executive committee. She’ll report directly to Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman

He described her as “a highly experienced technology and digital leader with a track record of leading large-scale digital transformation”.

She hasn’t previously worked in the luxury fashion sector but has wide-ranging experience across some major-name businesses in Britain.

She’s currently the global chief digital and information officer at coffee chain Costa Coffee where she oversees the company’s technology, digital and data organisation. 

Prior to joining that firm, she was the chief information, digital and transformation officer at private healthcare giant Bupa’s Bupa Insurance unit. She’s also held senior roles at Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, Pearson and Thomson Reuters.

Burberry has been navigating a tough period of late and Schulman joined in the top job last year, tweaking the firm’s strategy. His approach seems to be paying off with the company last week porting improved results, although the turnaround is still undeniable a work in progress.

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Gloucester Quays joins the record-breaking band of shopping centre successes

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January 31, 2025

Another day, another shopping centre delivering a “record-breaking” performance in 2024. This time it’s Gloucester Quays “capping off another year of considerable growth”, for the owner/operator Peel Retail & Leisure.

That included record Christmas trading at the key Gloucester mall, which helped overall sales for the year finish 6.7% ahead of the national average. Across November and December, retail sales grew 3.6% compared with 2023.
 
Looking at 2024 in total, an overall 7.4% year-on-year sales increase across its tenants was split between 6.1% for retail, and 8.5% for F&B.

But there was also double-digit growth from leading fashion, homewares, and outerwear brands including Next, Skechers, All Saints, Mountain Warehouse, Puma, Crew Clothing and Suit Direct. 

It said sustained growth was seen across all categories “points to the increasing relevance of the Gloucester Quays experience”.

Paul Carter, asset director at Peel Retail & Leisure, added: “There have been various headlines this month about how challenged retail was around Christmas, so to have Gloucester Quays performing so well is a real credit to our team and our brands.

“These results also serve as a reminder of how relevant and in demand this outlet is. We have experienced consistent growth for several years, and that success can be put down to the quality of our offer and waterside environment. There is no doubt our catchment is responding to how we have evolved Gloucester Quays, as an urban outlet that combines a compelling shopping environment with dining and leisure to fit all tastes and needs, benefitting from a heritage waterside setting that few regionally can match.”

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Chopard fragrance licensee Give Back Beauty agrees to buy rival AB Parfumes

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January 31, 2025

Italy’s Give Back Beauty, which makes perfumes for luxury brands such as Chopard and Zegna, on Friday said it had agreed to buy domestic rival AB Parfums to grow its distribution operations and add licensing deals.

Corrado Brondi, founder and president of Give Back Beauty

AB Parfums has an agreement with beauty giant L’Oréal Group to distribute some of its fragrances such as Ralph Lauren, Maison Margiela and Diesel. It also produces and distributes fragrances for brands such as Trussardi and Laura Biagiotti.

Fragrances have been outperforming the broader beauty sector and Give Back Beauty founder and Chairman Corrado Brondi told Reuters his company did not rule a possible bourse listing in the future, adding it had no financial need for it at present.

Brondi said AB Parfumes had sales of around €100 million, which would add to Give Back Beauty’s net revenues that totalled around €300 million in 2024.

Give Back Beauty, which was founded in 2019 and has a distribution deal with Dolce & Gabbana and a beauty license with Tommy Hilfiger, has a core profit margin currently a little over 15%, it said.

AB Parfums is being sold by Italy’s Angelini Industries, a family-owned group that is mostly active in the pharmaceutical sector.

Give Back Beauty’s business is currently focused on fragrances, which represent roughly 70% of its revenues, but it aims to grow its skincare, make-up and haircare product lines, Brondi said. 
 

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