Two young, but experienced designers – Nicolas Di Felice at Courrèges and Julien Klausner at Dries Van Noten – were welcome reminders of how to create distinctive fashion for house founded by revolutionary creators. Both have the same alma mater – La Cambre in Brussels.
Courrèges: Blinded by the Sun
The best designer in fashion these days, at least when it comes to self-editing, is Nicolas Di Felice, whose latest show for Courrèges was a model lesson in precision, punch and polish.
Courrèges Spring/Summer 2026 collection
Once again, Di Felice created a bright white set – a perfect circle, with rings of circular benches inside a 19th-century wrought iron market. But then went into overdrive with uber-bright overhead lighting, worthy of an exam in the “Squid Game”. So bright, Courrèges sent out natty pairs of all-black sunglasses with each invitation to provide protection.
“I was thinking of blinded by the sun in the sense what is true and what is fake. Too much information. It’s all a bit overwhelming. That’s where I started,” said Nicolas, seconds before Kering chairman François-Henri Pinault, whose empire includes Courrèges, embraced him briefly with a huge smile.
His opening looks were cold in icy blue, and his silhouettes tight, the models faces veiled to block out the sun. Before gradually loosening up and making most of the collection in natural fabrics, along with lean-and-mean leathers. So even if the line was neat and strict, the clothes looked comfortable.
Playing on André Courrèges’ DNA, especially his ’60s ideas, but courageously. Like taking André’s signature miniature belts and making several cocktails ingeniously out of scores of tiny belts.
Flat shoes, glove-like sling-backs or transparent boots all had great zest, as did the soundtrack. Churning galactic funk co-composed by Nicolas and Erwan Sene, interspersed with a French voice telling you the temperature of the hour. Only a French female accent can make that sounds sexy.
Courrèges Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris
Ending with a series of sun shield oblong shapes, taken from cars, but used in futuristic dresses. Futurism, which André Courrèges invented in fashion, can often look hackneyed today. But Di Felice always manages to give it optimism and belief, which the future that it should ideally represent.
In the half-decade since he joined Courrèges in 2020 from Louis Vuitton, Di Felice has turned its show into one of the hottest half-dozen in fashion. Thousands of fans scream and chant his guests into each show.
Courrèges may not be a giant house, but it is the hottest today within the Kering/Artemis luxury empire. And the biggest single reasons for that is Di Felice. And a management that is smart enough to let him do what he wants.
Dries Van Noten: Tried and tested
One almost felt one was in Scandinavia at the latest show of Dries Van Noten. So similar were the prints to Verner Panton’s designs of the 1970s. Or, indeed, to Marimekko colors of the past decade.
Not that they didn’t look easy on the eye, yet somehow very familiar. Otherwise, this was a polished performance by designer Julian Klausner. His latest women’s collection for the house blended street style, rich fabrics and ladylike twists: très Dries Van Noten in other words.
Staged inside a completely unadorned art space in the Palais de Tokyo, except for 400 Louis XVI chairs and the guests. All focused on the clothes, led out by quite a few little jackets, which turned out to be inspired by surfer silhouettes and wetsuit shapes – though with added small pleats, ruffles and color. Made in light, airy colors – lime, lichen, pale gray or canary yellow – all had charm.
“Joyful, optimistic… Like the ’60s was,” argued Klausner – an ex-Maison Margiela staffer – in a group chat post-show. Finishing shoes, sleeves, collars, T-shirts with strass and crystals, suggesting the shimmering light of the sea.
Respecting Dries rich history as a tailor, Julien cut some great nobleman’s coats – soaring collars, angled pockets and majestic proportions. Making them in broken disk or tropical leaf prints, very posh Panton. And once again a little too familiar.
Coming after his stellar menswear collection in June, this all felt like a slight step back.
But still highly competent. Dries, in effect, is in very safe hands.
From its elegantly appointed 1,000-square-metre showroom at 11 Via Uberto Visconti di Modrone in Milan, which showcases the brand’s entire universe, high-end clothing and accessories label Eleventy presented its Autumn-Winter 2026/27 collection, marked by colours new to the house, an expanded assortment—especially in footwear—and the use of new raw materials such as vicuña, as revenue stabilises and new store openings are readied, starting in Chicago.
Eleventy, Autumn-Winter 2026/27
“It’s an important year for us, one in which we wanted to reinvent ourselves, because we believe it’s right to go back to being special,” Marco Baldassari, who continues to lead the brand he owns as CEO, tells FashionNetwork.com. “We had certainly spent many years operating in our comfort zone, with light colours, which by now are no longer distinctive. So we wanted to introduce new, more sophisticated, darker colours and silhouettes that are new to us, to differentiate ourselves once again from what the market offers.”
“The inspiration for the collection,” Eleventy’s CEO continues, “begins with an inner journey of reconnection with nature, which becomes our stage.”
Brown, therefore, assumes a central role in Eleventy’s wardrobe, as do very deep, almost black greys—like the winter sky—alongside forest greens and burgundy.
“This change has been noticed and, I must say, warmly received by buyers, also because I think it’s right to rekindle the desire of a consumer who perhaps had found the market a bit flat, lacking truly new propositions, where everything seems interchangeable,” the entrepreneur notes.
“It’s one of the contributing factors to this global downturn in fashion and luxury sales. More than tariffs, which in my view have somewhat distracted from the real issue—the strengthening of the euro, alongside the weakening of the yen and the dollar—pricing has certainly played a part, and in many cases the end consumer has not found it justified. With a very balanced price-to-quality proposition, Eleventy has not been particularly affected by this phenomenon. I hope this new collection of ours will reignite a great deal of desire, because we have completely reinvented ourselves, including in terms of fit and aesthetic.”
Eleventy, Autumn-Winter 2026/27
Eleventy, which in late 2025 opened its first flagship in Lisbon, will continue its programme of monobrand openings in 2026. The most significant will be in Chicago, in the United States.
“The U.S. is our most important market, thanks also to the mentality of the American consumer, who tends to spend more and is more inclined to purchase than the European customer,” Baldassari observes.
Eleventy currently employs 200 people and has 18 monobrand stores managed directly from headquarters, plus 22 with franchise partners, for a total of 40 monobrand stores. In the multibrand channel, the Milan-based label is carried in around 300 carefully selected doors worldwide.
“To be special, and thereby sell a quality product, you also have to be more selective in distribution, sometimes sacrificing opportunities in favour of a longer-term vision,” the CEO said.
The womenswear collection is growing within Eleventy’s business; today it accounts for 25 per cent of revenue, with turnover rising to 127 million euros from approximately 100 million in 2024 (it was 43 million euros in 2022 and 65 million in 2023, ed.), with 18 per cent generated in Italy and 82 per cent abroad. After the US comes the Middle East, Europe overall, and Asia, where Baldassari highlights South Korea and Japan as growth markets, while China remains to be defined.
Eleventy, Autumn-Winter 2026/27
The agreement between the European Union and Mercosur to further liberalise trade between them “is certainly a new opportunity that we will not fail to evaluate with great attention and interest,” said the founder, in the presence of Gianmarco Tamberi, who has officially become Eleventy’s new brand ambassador.
“The choice of Gianmarco Tamberi is due to two fundamental reasons. First, we are Italian and we want to bring Italy to the world, which an athlete like him represents excellently. Second, the alignment of our respective values: to achieve the results we have, we have made many sacrifices, with hard work, consistency, commitment and discipline. These are all elements that unite our paths,” the founder continued.
Since in recent years fashion has first seen the rise of tennis-inspired style and then that of skiing (preceded about fifteen years earlier by golfwear and polowear), can athleticwear be trendy in the coming years as well?
In other words, will athletics succeed in conveying its values to the general public, as it has almost never managed to do in the past? “Achieving results certainly helps to spur similar developments,” Tamberi replies.
“We were coming out of a period (from around 2000 to 2015) when athletics had a huge void of champions in Italy. Now something has shifted, especially since the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, after the famous five gold medals we managed to bring home. Results can allow the personalities who achieve them to emerge; otherwise it’s difficult to bring a movement to public attention. Today, many young people in athletics are coming through,” explains the high jumper, who in his discipline has won at least once everything there was to win, having been Olympic champion at the Tokyo 2020 Games, world champion in Budapest 2023, world indoor champion in Portland in 2016, and three-time European champion (2016, 2022, 2024), not to mention victories at the European Indoors and two Diamond League finals reached.
Eleventy, Autumn-Winter 2026/27
“The collaboration with Eleventy came about very naturally, as we share similar values,” confirms the Ancona-born athlete. “For a few years I had the honour of being a Giorgio Armani ambassador, whom I take this opportunity to thank and acknowledge. When that partnership ended, several companies came forward to have me as a testimonial, but I couldn’t find any that resonated with me and with what I want to represent and communicate. Then Marco Baldassari got in touch. And everything clicked into place naturally.”
Founded in Milan in 2007 by Marco Baldassari and Paolo Zuntini, joined in 2009 by Andrea Scuderi, and now majority controlled (65 per cent) by the Fashion Cube fund—a holding company composed of the VEI Capital fund and a Gulf financial group that controls all the sales networks of the high-end apparel and accessories company—Eleventy works exclusively with natural Italian materials and 100% made in Italy production. Present in more than 30 countries, it also has directly operated stores in cities such as Milan, New York, Paris, Tokyo, Seoul and Dubai.
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After a 2025 marked by confirmed trends, Luxurynsight and Heuritech unveil their 2026 trend calendar, revealing a fashion landscape centred on sustainability, textures, volumes and statement pieces.
Last year, several signals stood out: suede, boat shoes and the colour cinnamon far exceeded expectations, as did the Euro summer theme, which propelled buttermilk yellow alongside gingham and oversized polka dots. These latter trends recorded growth of between +17% and +87%, confirming their rapid adoption and long-term potential, while the “city boy” aesthetic—with its vertical stripes, raw denim and cylindrical “duffle” bags—left its mark on urban menswear, signalling an appetite for versatile, functional silhouettes inspired by major global metropolises.
DR
For 2026, the calendar highlights month-by-month trends, each with its own growth forecast. January opened with fur detailing, turning fur into subtle accents on collars, hems and accessories, with visibility forecast to rise by +15% in the first quarter and over the next twelve months.
February spotlighted leather trousers, seen on red carpets and sports grounds, with growth forecast at +8% in the first quarter and +2% over the year, while animal prints and croc-embossed leather complement the masculine aesthetic.
March was dominated by raw denim, appearing in trousers, jackets and monochrome silhouettes, with growth of +11% in the first quarter and +9% over the year. In April, performance football trainers benefited from anticipation of the World Cup, with +12% forecast for the second quarter and +14% over twelve months, while pink trainers emerge as a distinct phenomenon at +19%.
May spotlighted loafers, reinterpreted in suede with playful details such as laces, forecast at +15% in the second quarter and +14% over the year, with suede continuing to gain ground across all categories of footwear. June saw the emergence of shades of green and yellow, “greenfinch” for men and “pickle green” for women, with growth of +15% and +7% respectively—versatile colours suited to sportswear and urban pieces—while tones such as aqua green are set to stand out.
July highlighted draping, celebrating volume, fluidity and sculptural forms across blouses, skirts and trousers, with +5% expected in the third quarter and +7% over the year, while draped tops and dresses reach +15% and +12%. August showcased irregular, tennis-inspired horizontal stripes, forecast at +10% in the third quarter and +5% over twelve months, creating a strong, modern motif.
DR
September introduced structured bags, with +10% visibility in the third quarter and +18% over the year, adopted particularly by consumers seeking a minimalist yet sculptural style. October spotlighted flat-lock stitching details, bringing a technical and graphic finish to silhouettes, forecast at +19% in the fourth quarter and +1% over twelve months.
November confirmed the rise of large polka dots, an oversized and photogenic print, expected to grow by +147% in the fourth quarter and +43% over the year, driven by links with contemporary art and visibility at events such as Art Basel Paris.
Finally, December saw the return of tartan, with +16% for men and +12% for women over the year, incorporating coordinating pieces and varied silhouettes from accessories to over shirts, confirming the relevance of reworked classics in a unisex and sustainable winter wardrobe.
The use of artificial intelligence and machine learning algorithms enabled this study to detect emerging signals and anticipate consumer behaviour. The combination of quantitative precision and qualitative expertise ensures actionable forecasts, offering brands a strategic guide to meeting the expectations of a demanding audience attuned to the stylistic coherence and sustainability of their fashion choices.
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Bloomingdale’s has appointed Russ Patrick as its new general merchandise manager of home.
Bloomingdale’s names Russ Patrick GMM of home. – Bloomingdale’s
Patrick joins Bloomingdale’s after a 33-year career at Neiman Marcus, where he most recently served as senior vice president, general merchandise manager and head merchant of men’s, gifts, home and children’s. He departed the Dallas-based retailer in 2023, and has since acted as an industry consultant.
“The strength of the team, the clarity of the vision and the opportunity ahead make Bloomingdale’s the destination,” Patrick said. “I’m energized to take on this next chapter as GMM of Home, contributing to the continued evolution of such an iconic company, and to do so in New York — the center of retail energy.”
In his new role, Patrick succeeds Dan Leppo, who transitioned last March to sister company Macy’s as senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and kids’.