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Paris Fashion Week Thursday: Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli

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October 2, 2025

​Paris enjoyed yet another debut Thursday: Miguel Castro Freitas’ respectful couture interpretation of Mugler, along with two radically different visions of glamour by fellow Americans – Daniel Roseberry of Texas and Rick Owens of California.
 

Mugler: Reeking of glamour in La République

Thursday’s big debut was by Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, who invited guests down into an underground parking garage near La République. But if the location was gloomy, the show reeked of glamor.

Mugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Miguel joined Mugler with an impressive CV, and there were dollops of his various stints with many major houses and designers – fantasy cocktails with echoes of John Galliano, and strict tailoring from his days at Raf SimonsDior.
 
Though, above all, this was a couture-worthy interpretation of Mugler, that harked back to the early ’90s when Thierry exploded into haute couture after his beginnings as a ready-to-wear creator. And to a decade later, when Mugler staged truly revolutionary aviary collections.

Miguel’s most beautiful looks riffed on that – two birds of paradise, beguilingly constructed feathered jackets and skirts, showing a designer very much in charge of his atelier. Made in collaboration with Maison Février, a particular genius French feather resource located above the Moulin Rouge.

Mugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Miguel’s skilful draping of second-skin leathers in ruched cocktails and gowns completed with leather flowers was boldly dramatic. As was the way he constructed moulded shoulders and necklines that sat off the torso, while his silicon suits with exaggerated hips were excellent.
 
At times, there was so much beige one could not help recalling he once worked for the Max Mara group. Albeit, leavened by a soupçon of lingerie and transparency to keep things racy, and a series of curtain dresses leaving multiple nipples exposed.
 
Castro Freitas joined Mugler in March, succeeding Casey Cadwallader, and his grander style eschewed the obsession with S&M that characterized his predecessor’s reign.

Mugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The house of Mugler is today controlled by beauty giant L’Oréal, and like most houses run by perfume corporations, the business direction is to emphasize red carpet, influencer and editorial coverage, and not to build a substantial ready-to-wear business.
 
In that sense, Castro Freitas’ collection seems very suitable. It had drama, polish and pizzazz. And a good front row with Naomi Watts, Eva Herzigová and Pamela Anderson, sporting a redhead look.
 
Rick Owens: Temple on a fountain 
Rick Owens shows are more like works of performance art than mere displays of clothes. His latest spectacle on a cloudy Thursday afternoon turned out to be an epic event.

Rick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Returning to his preferred locale – the mammoth fountain of the Palais de Tokyo. And marching his gaunt and glam cast marching down a massive metal stairway right into the water. Dry ice drifting about, scores of speakers booming out Basstrologe’s dramatic remix of “Somebody to Love”, a pen to loyalty in romance. Starring the magnificent vocals of Grace Slick, the Acid Queen and greatest singer from the psychedelic era in California, Rick’s home state.
 
The show took place just meters away from “Temple of Love”, the bravura exhibition of Owens’ work currently being staged inside the Musée Galliera. Like his menswear show in June, which kicked off the retrospective, this collection was entitled “Temple”. 

Rick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“This exhibition tracks the pursuit of glamour and sleaze that I was looking for on Hollywood boulevard, and eventually, improbably, ended up displaying in a Paris Museum. I have always thought of what I do as a fascination with the denseness of European aesthetic sophistication seen through a filter of American bluntness,” opined Rick in his program note.
 
In this very bold collection, the sophistication came in the out-there draping; surreally hung frocks; power-shoulder technical organza dresses; and the remarkable fabrics. Recycled nylon tulle embroidered with sequins; or veg-tanned heavyweight leathers crafted by London designer, Straytukay.

Rick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The bluntness in the slashed and fringed oversized leather pants worn with the house’s signature Perspex heeled jackboots ideal for walking in water and for stomping around to Grace Slick’s greatest anthem.
 

Schiaparelli: Dancing in the Dark

Daniel Roseberry entitled this spring/Summer 2026 collection “Dancer in The Dark” and it was very much his raciest, after-hours selection of clothes.

Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris
Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris – Courtesy

 
There is a new refined sexiness present on European runways, and Roseberry’s latest ideas seem very much of the now.
 
His tailoring was strict, suggesting a domineering female, authoritative and powerful. Snug, neat mess jackets and pencil skirts, exposing midriff – a current rage. Leather second-skin cocktails were embossed around the bosom, others were perforated showing lots of flesh.
 
Several of Daniel’s models seemed to get entangled in a series of crushed satin looks that didn’t really work, before he got back on track with some beautiful white transparent jersey looks, that founder Elsa would surely have loved.

Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris
Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris – Courtesy

Quoting Yves Saint Laurent, who called Schiap’, “a comet illuminating the Paris skyline, determined to dominate.” Roseberry clearly wants his clients to do the same thing. 
 
All the way to the hyper-sheer polkadot chiffon jumpsuit in which Kendall Jenner prowled around the after-midnight set. Build inside the top floor of the currently under restoration Pompidou Center, the black carpet twisting, illuminated by theatrical floor lighting – giving the proceedings a faintly diabolical air. And all the better for that.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Paris Fashion Week Men’s kicks off with Pharrell’s Drophaus for Louis Vuitton

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January 21, 2026

Louis Vuitton has always been about hyper-savvy brand connections, all the way to its latest show whose centerpoint was a beautiful modernist architectural set. 

Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2026 collection – FashionNetwori.com

 
From Bauhaus to Drophaus, the term Vuitton’s menswear creative director Pharrell Williams used to describe this elegant apartment, made in collaboration with the architectural firm Not A Hotel: a prefabricated house concept envisioned as a timeless space for future living. Think a blend of midcentury modern-meets-Joseph Dirand.
 
An ideal setting for this expression of modernist mode by Williams, which opened Paris Fashion Week Men’s at the Louis Vuitton Foundation on a wet Tuesday night in Paris. And don’t be surprised if some of the furniture Pharrell designed for this model home turns up in the hotel Louis Vuitton is said to be building on the Champs-Élysées. 

A raised model home built inside a plywood crate the size of a small stadium, on which was stencilled in half-meter high letters “Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 26 Men’s Collection”.

An ideal Instagram backdrop for hundreds of guests, or micro and mega influencers. Many of whom where sat front row wearing the hand-made, caramel-colored Babouche slippers Williams kindly sent as a gift with his formal invitation.
 
A huge show backed up by a gospel choir attired in black professors’ gowns at one end, facing a full orchestra at the other. 

Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2026 collection
Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2026 collection – FashionNetwork.com

Without question, the most commercially minded yet also timeless of Pharrell’s five shows so far for the house, focused on crisp, cohesive tailoring. Opening with classic six-button jackets and the flared pants that Pharrell favors, many composed in new LV technical fabrics reflective under light.
 
Though the heart of the matter was the travel-wear: natty crinkly jerkins so one never needs to fear coming off a long-haul flight with a crumpled look. Padded urban ski jackets with fur-trimmed hood, or chambray shell jackets for a little dash.
 
One also had to love the splendid ankle-brazing gents coats, finished with matching woollen bows, or vicuna zippered and pocketed sweatshirts. Above all, the American designer toned way down the streetwear, and concentrated on contemporary tailoring, and casual chic, albeit never too quiet but rippling with panache.
 
In accessories, a fab’ new series of monogram backpacks, elongated and finished with extra micro pockets should be huge hits.  Many boasting cuddly fox companions that looked like must-have ornaments. 
 
And, of course, it would not be a Pharrell Vuitton show without a few mammoth trunks. Two standouts this season were an uncanny light-filled,  stained-glass-window version of a Tiffany lamp, followed by a beautifully made intarsia vista of Pont Alexandre III and the Eiffel Tower.
 

Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2026 collection
Louis Vuitton fall/winter 2026 collection – FashionNetwork.com

All of which won Pharrell a huge ovation – led by a powerhouse front row that included First Lady Brigitte Macron; “Adolescence” protagonist Stephen Graham; it-guy Djo; and crooner, John Legend. 
 
Williams took a leisurely bow, backed up by a soundtrack he produced at the Louis Vuitton in-house recording studios. It included compositions like Pray For Ya by John Legend; Sex God by Jackson Wang (feat. Pusha T); Disturbing The P by A$AP Rocky (feat. Pharrell Williams); and The One by Voices of Fire (feat. Pharrell Williams) and Hit-A-Lik by Quavo.
 
In a word, another hit show, and collection, by Williams. Not bad going for what is technically his night job. 

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Canali steps up its lifestyle positioning after ending 2025 with €205 million in revenue

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January 20, 2026

High-end menswear brand Canali recorded a slight decline in turnover in the 2025 financial year, to 205 million euros from 210 million in 2024; a decrease “linked to contingencies in certain international markets,” according to president and CEO Stefano Canali, who nonetheless describes himself as “very optimistic” about business in 2026.

Canali, Autumn-Winter 2026/27

“Right now, I think we have a kind of alignment of the stars: the right collection, backed by a credible brand that has been around for 91 years and offers top-quality products at a fair price. This is our formula for success in 2026,” the manager tells FashionNetwork.com. “The Autumn-Winter 2026/27 collection presented in Milan marks a further evolutionary step in the wake of the changes we set in motion about four years ago, designed to ensure that our offering is increasingly lifestyle-oriented while remaining consistent with our sartorial DNA, from which we will never depart, and to reflect, in a credible, authentic and recognisable way, the evolution of customers’ tastes around the world. Our DNA, tied to the highest-quality canvassed suit, therefore permeates every element of the collection, from outerwear to shoes and knitwear.”

“We are talking about the very highest quality of materials,” Canali continues, “exceptional construction quality, a unified colour palette, and a collection that can be easily mixed and matched, creating a clear and distinctive identity for the Canali brand. The ultimate goal, which we believe we have further achieved with this collection, is an elevated and sophisticated offer that is, at the same time, genuinely easy to buy and to mix and match throughout the week according to the customer’s needs. It offers the functionality and versatility in garments that people are looking for.”

Canali, Autumn-Winter 2026/27, the presentation at Galleria Meravigli
Canali, Autumn-Winter 2026/27, the presentation at Galleria Meravigli

The market was almost shocked to see certain price rises applied by fashion and luxury brands. What are your thoughts on this? “Price rises are not an issue for Canali,” the CEO responds unequivocally. “Our brand has always maintained a very fair pricing position, which matters even more today, because customers out there- as they have been telling us, obsessively, for some time- no longer accept certain price points, which we, moreover, have never charged.”

Stefano Canali aims to ensure that in 2026 the overall message of the collection is increasingly amplified across all distribution channels- wholesale, directly operated retail, and online, launched in-house 10 years ago and considered “a service complement to the physical channel.” The executive signals upcoming store openings (50 directly operated Canali mono-brand stores, over 1,000 wholesale accounts worldwide), but declines to disclose details, remaining focused on healthy, credible growth in all countries.

Canali, Autumn-Winter 2026/27
Canali, Autumn-Winter 2026/27

The North American market accounts for 50% of the brand’s sales. Any issues with US-imposed tariffs, and with the strengthening of the euro against the dollar? “Clearly, exchange-rate fluctuations affect prices; however, it is an issue we have always dealt with throughout my time at this company,” says Stefano Canali. “Let’s remember that over two decades the euro went from being worth $0.82 to $1.60, and everyone is still here. The market clearly adapts; and of course all brands have to make their own assessments of the most appropriate price to charge in each area, but that will never be a problem.”

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As US orders fade, Chinese salespeople face tough grind in new markets

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January 20, 2026

China sold more goods to the world than ever in 2025, but export saleswoman Aimee Chen says it was the hardest of her roughly two-decade career. After US President Donald Trump‘s tariff hikes led to US orders plunging by a third, Chen’s pet products company moved to diversify geographies, chasing new and often lower-income markets like South America. The response mirrored China’s official trade policy, which led to a record $1.2 trillion surplus for 2025 despite new trade barriers. 

Chinese flags flutter near containers stacked at the Yangshan Deep Water Port in Shanghai, China January 13, 2022. Picture taken January 13, 2022 – REUTERS/Aly Song/File Photo

Reuters interviews with 14 salespeople working on the frontlines of China’s export diversification push, however, reveal the costs and caveats behind the rosy headline trade figures. Four of the salespeople said that orders from the new markets were often smaller in volume and less lucrative than US sales, resulting in lower commissions and pay. Government data show profits at China’s industrial firms fell 13.1% year-on-year in November, the fastest pace in over a year. 

Many of the employees also described longer working hours as well as greater intensity and uncertainty amid the export boom. “I’m very anxious,” said Chen, ⁠adding that she had recently experienced stress symptoms like hair loss and insomnia. 

Mingwei Liu, director at the Center for Global Work and Employment at Rutgers University, said that China’s export strategy in alternative markets depended on firms chasing high volumes of cheap orders. Companies that succeed often give clients longer payment cycles and bear higher default risks, he ⁠said. 

“This market reorientation increases the labour intensity, the emotional burden and income uncertainty faced by workers in export sales,” Liu said. China’s commerce ministry and human resources ministry, as well as the office which manages the cabinet’s media queries, did not respond to requests for comment.

China and the US have grown increasingly interconnected since Beijing’s 2001 accession to the World Trade Organization. Their relationship has also become more imbalanced, with their respective economic policies favouring production in the former country and consumption in the latter. 

Some American retailers and Chinese producers have said they ‍developed relationships that were so ‌close that they could anticipate each other’s needs and red lines, making deals feel almost automatic. Chen, for instance, described her past interactions with US retailers in largely glowing terms. Clients in the world’s largest ⁠economy were often “easy-going” and signed deals quickly, she said. 

By contrast, customers in new ‌markets like to haggle on price, she said. Chinese shipments to the US fell 20% in 2025, though it remains a top export destination. Shipments rose 25.8% to Africa, 7.4% to Latin America, ‌13.4% to Southeast Asia, and 8.4% to the European Union last year.
 
While Washington and Beijing have had previous trade disputes, tensions escalated after Trump took office at the start of 2025. He raised tariffs to over 100% in April, before partially reversing and settling for a fragile detente. His re-election sent China’s export-oriented industrial complex into a rat race for foreign demand across the world.

Monica Chen, who has been selling auto parts for more than a decade in the eastern Zhejiang province, had long relied on email to keep business going. But with US tariffs in place, she’s had to fight harder to win business. That means ‍ramping up business travel to as much as three times a month and cold-calling prospects. 

“It’s very hard to develop new markets, they are basically saturated,” said Monica, who isn’t related to Aimee Chen. Her company ultimately responded by cutting prices to undercut other Chinese firms that are also looking for buyers abroad. The firm’s orders were down a third in value from 2024, Monica said. 

With profits falling, companies have placed pressure on their ‌sales agents. Cici Lv, 24, who has sold electric bicycle ⁠batteries since ​2022 from the southern city of Shenzhen, earns about 5,000 yuan ($717) per month- not much more than workers in the factories that produce such units. 

But while workers’ shifts ⁠come to an end, Lv ​said she is constantly on the clock talking to foreign clients. One of her peers, Rowan Wang, a sales rep for an exporter of agricultural equipment in eastern China, summed up the demands as “if we’re alive, we have to reply.”

Five of the salespeople also described struggles to manage less-affluent clients in markets with which they have little familiarity. Lv said she traded messages with one client for months, discussing everything from news events to ​lunch choices and religion. He eventually ordered just one battery, earning Lv a commission of less than $2.

A review of the top 100 most liked export-related posts on social media platform RedNote in the six months to mid-January found 37 that raised complaints about heightened job stress. Another six complained about unprofessional client interactions.

“Sometimes it messes with your mind,” ⁠said Lv, who said she’s fielded relationship proposals. The hardship described by the sales staff may be an early warning that ⁠China’s trade diversification success in 2025 could be hard to replicate in the years ahead, said Chen Bo, senior research fellow at the National University of Singapore’s East Asian Institute.

Economists have long argued that China has to develop local markets if it wants to end its deflationary cycle. Weak consumption pushes Chinese producers to compete overseas, often against each other, which brings revenue into the economy but erodes profits, Chen said. China “can’t maintain sustainable economic growth by relying on foreign markets,” the academic said. 

© Thomson Reuters 2026 All rights reserved.



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