As Shein sparks controversy by opening at BHV Marais and in five Galeries Lafayette stores, six NGOs in the “Stop Fast-Fashion Coalition” urge lawmakers to adopt ambitious regulations. They stress that French and European fast-fashion players must also face scrutiny, not just their Chinese rivals.

The organizations state that the line between fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion has become increasingly blurred. They argue that the most recent version of the “Fast Fashion Law,” which the French Senate passed last May, spares established fast-fashion companies. Public criticism of these long-standing players has weakened as Shein and Temu rise in popularity.

“In France, 97% of the textiles consumed are imported from countries with less stringent social and environmental standards,” the NGOs say. “Numerous reports highlight the environmentally harmful composition of garments, the use of forced and child labor, and gender-based and sexual violence. Many of the brands commissioning production source from the same factories as the Chinese platforms.”

The Coalition’s press release disputes the claim that fast fashion creates jobs. It recalls that the business model depends on the massive offshoring of textile production to Asia — a shift that eliminated an estimated 310,000 jobs in France alone.

The NGOs also reject the argument that fast fashion revitalizes city centers. “Since 2016, turnover at clothing shops has stagnated, while Zara and Primark have posted growth of over 150%,” they say. They accuse these chains of fueling the expansion of out-of-town retail while homogenizing the retail landscape in city centers.

While the Coalition criticizes Shein for the proliferation of product references, it also points to similar practices by French retailers. They cite Kiabi, which reportedly offers 200,000 SKUs. Alongside their criticism of Shein, the NGOs urge European retailers to improve their own operations.

The six NGOs include Collectif Éthique sur l’étiquette, Fashion Revolution France, Les Amis de la Terre, ActionAid, Fairtrade Max Havelaar France, and Zero Waste France.