Mytheresa has been pretty quiet about its plans for Yoox Net-A-Porter since announcing it was acquiring the business from Richemont and changing the wider group name to LuxExperience BV, but that all changed on Friday when it unveiled a raft of key management developments.
Michael Kliger – Mytheresa
The new senior leadership team for the combined group will be effective on closing of the YNAP acquisition and “has been nominated to drive and create the leading, luxury multi-brand digital group for true luxury enthusiasts around the globe,” we’re told.
The company said that “to further strengthen the unique and differentiated identities of each store brand, separate dedicated management teams are put in charge to deliver the best curated brand offerings, to create highly engaging inspiration and develop lasting customer relationships”.
That said, at the group level, functions will be consolidated into a shared group infrastructure “that will deliver best- in-class and efficient services for the multi-brand luxury business across technology, operations, customer data analytics and corporate functions”.
A newly transformation function at group level will also steer the group-wide transformation.
The completion of the deal is imminent — planned for 23 April — and the new name and leadership team will hit the ground running at that point.
Who’s who
So who’s in the new team? At the most senior level, existing execs retain their roles although with an expanded remit for the larger group. Current Mytheresa CEO Michael Kliger will be CEO and MD, continuing to lead the group’s overall strategy.
Current CFO Martin Beer, who led the 2021 IPO and was crucial to the YNAP deal, will continue as CFO but will also be an MD.
Existing CTO Philipp Barthold will be group CTO, driving the continued enhancement of Mytheresa’s technology platform and overseeing the migration of Net-A-Porter and Mr Porter onto Mytheresa’s advanced tech stack. He’ll also lead the group’s fraud prevention initiatives.
COO of 10 years’ standing Sebastian Dietzmann will be group COO responsible for customer care, studio production, and all warehouse operations. But when the deal completes, he’ll step down from the Management Board.
Gareth Locke, Mytheresa’s current chief growth officer, will be chief data & analytics officer (CDO), a new role in which he’ll be responsible for the development of group-wide customer insights and customer analytics tools, “thus leveraging the power of the combined data pool to support the store brands in serving all customers”. He’ll also step down from the Management Board.
The firm’s current commercial chief Richard Johnson, will become chief business officer for the group, another brand new role. He’ll manage vendor partnerships including budget, planning, category expansion, operations of the Curated Platform Model as well as the group’s sustainability initiatives. Since joining in 2017 he’s been key in “cultivating outstanding and enduring brand relationships and spearheading various category expansions including menswear, fine jewelry & watches, kidswear and home”.
Current chief people officer Björn Kastl will take that role at a group level.
DR
YNAP’s existing president of the Online Flagship Store, Francesca Tranquilli, will become chief transformation officer and will orchestrate the transformation of YNAP’s four brands, as well as the combination of the businesses into the new LuxExperience Group. She’ll also continue in her YNAP president role.
Mytheresa’s North America president Heather Kaminetsky will become Net-A-Porter CEO and “will be responsible for defining and driving a re-energised customer proposition across the globe as well as simplifying the organisational structures”. She previously worked for that business as VP global marketing until 2016.
At Mr Porter, Toby Bateman will return at its CEO having earlier in his career been responsible for many of its key developments.
Meanwhile YNAP’s COO Mirko Nobili will “transition” from that role and becomes CEO of Yoox.
The Outnet’s MD Sabah Naqushbandi will continue in that role, again “spearheading the brand’s ongoing transformation by sharpening its value proposition and reinforcing its unique portfolio of previous-season luxury fashion”.
Net-A-Porter
Michael Kliger said of all this: “We have selected our future management team at store brand and group level to bring together the most experienced and capable leaders for each role. All these outstanding leaders share a passion for customers, the willingness to drive change and a deep understanding of their business areas. This thoughtfully selected team draws on Mytheresa’s established management strengths, the experience of strong leaders from the YNAP organisation, and is further enhanced by highly accomplished external hires.
“The strong store brand management teams for Mytheresa, Net-A-Porter, Mr Porter, Yoox and The Outnet will create individual brand identities and a differentiated, yet complementary, multi-brand luxury offering for customers. At the group level, the new established leadership team will strategically focus on efficiency and thus boost the profitability of the store brands.
“The team’s shared goal is to deliver an exceptional luxury experience for our customers and to increase the profitability of the group. I am excited and confident that, with our passion and expertise, we will rapidly improve all businesses and achieve our financial goals in the expected timeframe.”
Jonathan Anderson will create the June collection for Dior Men’s Fashion, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault said on Thursday at the group’s annual meeting with shareholders.
Jonathan Anderson – Courtesy
Anderson, 40, whose departure from LVMH’s smaller label Loewe was announced on March 17, is one of a new generation of high-profile designers taking over some of the world’s biggest fashion labels amid a sweeping industry overhaul.
The sector is grappling with some of its slowest growth in years, weighed down by China’s property crisis while rising prices have deterred shoppers from splashing out on new fashion.
Anderson is credited with boosting the profile of Loewe during his tenure at the Spanish label, where he won over fashion critics with original and quirky designs.
Brand hits from Anderson include 800-euro barrel-legged jeans and the compact, over-the-shoulder Puzzle bag, which sells for around 3,000 euros.
The Irish native has won a host of awards, including British designer of the year in 2023 and 2024 for his work at Loewe as well as his namesake brand JW Anderson.
He has built a loyal fan base, drawing an eclectic mix of international artists into the annual Loewe craft prize competition, and famously restyled James Bond actor Daniel Craig in wholesome sweaters and baggy trousers for a buzzy Loewe campaign.
LVMH on March 24 named Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to replace Anderson at Loewe.
Hermès is continuing its momentum into 2025, despite a complex economic backdrop. In the first quarter, the French luxury house reported revenue of €4.1 billion, marking a 9% increase, or 7% at constant exchange rates, compared to the same period last year. Growth was seen across all regions. “We reached a record level, surpassing the very high sales of Q4 2024, which included holiday purchases,” said Chief Financial Officer Eric Halgouët during a conference call with analysts.
According to Hermes.com, leather goods sales rose 10% in Q1. – hermes.com
“Hermès is on track with its objectives in all regions. In this uncertain environment, the loyalty of our customers remains a fundamental strength,” Halgouët added. He announced that Hermès would raise its U.S. prices in May to fully offset the 10% import duties imposed by the U.S. government.
On April 15, Hermès surpassed LVMH to become France’s most valuable listed company. The brand will “fully offset” the duties by implementing a price increase across all product categories in the U.S. starting May 1, Halgouët confirmed. However, he did not specify the percentage of the increase.
“This will be an additional price adjustment we are finalizing, but it will allow us to neutralize the impact,” he said. Hermès had already raised prices globally by 6% to 7% earlier this year and typically only makes one pricing adjustment annually. In late March, Ferrari also announced plans to pass the added tariff costs onto its U.S. prices.
Sales in the Americas rose 13.3% to €695 million in Q1. “It’s double-digit growth across the United States, Canada, Mexico, and even Brazil,” said Halgouët. However, he noted that the start of the quarter was challenging due to extreme weather conditions.
The quarter began with wildfires in Los Angeles, which forced two Hermès stores to close temporarily, followed by unusual snowstorms in other states, including Florida. “We started the year with very low inventory levels in the United States,” he said. “But we ended the quarter with a strong March in every city.”
Stable sales in China
In Asia-Pacific (excluding Japan), Hermès posted a 2.7% increase in revenue to €1.97 billion, down from the 14% growth seen in Q1 2024. In Japan, sales surged 17.9% to €421 million, driven by strong local demand.
Halgouët reported that sales in Greater China remained virtually stable, which he described as solid considering the high base from Q1 2024. He observed “no major developments or trend shifts” in mainland China compared to prior quarters.
“Real estate and exports—China’s top two economic pillars—remain weak. However, in terms of consumption, which is the third pillar, the government has introduced several stimulus measures. These are positive, even if they don’t directly impact most of our customers,” he added.
Taiwan continues to post strong growth, supported by a value-driven strategy and a loyal clientele. In Macao, performance has been more volatile due to changing Chinese tourism patterns in the luxury sector. While competition is increasing in Shenzhen, which is drawing more Chinese shoppers, Hong Kong remains “an important financial hub.”
In Europe (excluding France), revenue rose 12.7% to €501 million, while sales in France climbed 14.2% to €357 million. Hermès continues to see steady performance in its historic core markets—France, Europe, and Japan. In Europe, strong results were fueled by both local customers and international tourists from the United States, the Middle East, and parts of Asia, particularly in Germany, Switzerland, and Spain.
High luxury, higher standards
Hermès’ robust results are partly attributed to its “ultra-luxury positioning, with products purchased by ultra-wealthy clients,” said Andréa Tueni, head of market activity at Saxo Bank France, in comments to AFP.
In March, HSBC analysts echoed this sentiment, noting Hermès’ “unique business model,” the rarity of its iconic handbags, the strength of its broader leather goods portfolio, and the resilience of its non-leather categories.
“Another strength of the Hermès model lies in its broad product range, from iconic high-end handbags to more accessible offerings such as silver jewelry and beauty products,” they said.
Sainsbury’s has released its results for the 52 weeks to the beginning of March and while most of the activity in its latest year was about food, it also has a large fashion and general merchandise business that appears to be mainly strong, despite its Argos unit trailing earlier in the year.
Tu Clothing
Total sales for the retailer, excluding fuel, rose 4.2% to £26.6 billion but Argos sales dropped 2.7%. The company said that it saw overall strong sales momentum in the final quarter with sales for the whole business up 4.1% and even Argos sales rising 1.9%, reflecting a continued improvement in the online traffic trend.
Statutory profit after tax rose 77% to £242 million.
Not that the company’s food operations are completely irrelevant to fashion and general merchandise as the more people it can get through its doors and onto its website, the more likely they are to look at its Tu clothing label and to order items from Argos.
And in the results it said that it’s “winning more big basket primary customers” and is in full expansion mode with the company having acquired 14 new supermarket sites in key target locations.
Looking specifically at the clothing and general merchandise operations, the company said that combined Sainsbury’s branded general merchandise and clothing sales were flat year on year for the full 12 months but after weakness in Q1 and Q3, they rose 6.5% during Q4. Clothing specifically rose 2.9% for the year including a 12.3% increase during Q4. Meanwhile Argos, as mentioned was down 2.7% for the full year but it saw that 1.9% increase in Q4 after each of the previous three quarters during the year had seen falls.
And while these businesses are relatively small in terms of overall sales and profits at Sainsbury’s we can’t ignore just how big the company is in the clothing and general merchandise categories. For instance, during the year it sold £1.862 billion worth of clothing and Sainsbury’s branded general merchandise, while Argos sold £4.916 billion worth of goods.
Sainsbury’s general merchandise and clothing also delivered higher profits on sales and margins gained from the mix benefit of stronger clothing sales and lower household electrical and toys sales as it continued to focus ranges and reduce space allocation in some categories.
As for that improving trend in clothing sales, it said higher full-price sales participation delivered a 4% improvement in profitability during the year, alongside market share gains. Its renewed focus on design and range in Womenswear resulted in particularly strong sales growth of nearly 5% and an improvement in customer perception of its ranges.