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Mothercare to end UK Boots deal, India JV helps cut debt, Middle East sales drop

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Mothercare issued a fairly downbeat full-year update on Thursday with the parent-and child retailer saying the 52 weeks to 29 March saw falling sales.

Mothercare UK

The comparison period was a 53-week one with unaudited worldwide retail sales by franchise partners of £231 million for the latest year, a decline of 18%. In constant currency and based on a 52-week comparison sales were still down 14% “with the decline largely resulting from the unchanged trading conditions in our Middle Eastern markets”.

Adjusted EBITDA for FY25 was approximately £3.5 million, in line with market expectations, but on the plus side, net borrowings of £3.7 million at year-end were significantly reduced from £14.7 million as a result of the recently announced India joint venture and refinancing.

That £3.5 million EBITDA figure would mean a fall from the previous year’s £6.9 million, driven by the “uncertainty in the Middle East on our franchise partners’ operations. Our franchise partner has reduced the store numbers of many of its brands and specifically for Mothercare our store numbers across the year have reduced by 47 to 77 stores at March 2025”.

But it’s not only the Middle East that’s affecting sales and profits. The company said the fall in net worldwide retail sales by franchise partners from £281 million a year ago can also be partly blamed on the UK, albeit to a lesser extent than the Middle East.

The company is clearly not happy with how its UK ops have been progressing and said it’s ending its exclusive distribution relationship with Boots at the end of 2025, “as we believe there is a greater opportunity for the brand and a new partner in the UK”.

It added that when the UK is taken out of the mix, “the underlying strength of the business is demonstrated that on a like-for-like basis our total retail sales were positive for the full year to March 2025, despite the prevailing global economic uncertainties”.

Unfortunately for the company, “in addition to the global economic uncertainties, in many of our territories our partners are still clearing inventory due to the suppressed demand during Covid-19. Whilst there are signs of this process concluding in some territories, we expect these factors will continue to impact the group results in FY26”.

As for financing, at the year-end Mothercare had total cash of £4.4 million, down from £5 million a year earlier. Its revised loan facility remained fully drawn across the year. Forecasts for continuing operations show the group requiring waivers to its covenant tests. “We continue to have regular and positive discussions with our lender, [which is] aware of our forecasts,” it said and added that “the group does not require additional liquidity”.

Chairman Clive Whiley remained cautiously upbeat. He said: “Our results for last year reflect the impact of the continuing uncertainty on our franchise partners’ operations in the Middle East. However, the de-leveraged business resulting from the recent India joint venture and refinancing, together with the ongoing support of our lender and pension trustees, is enabling us to continue to explore the full bandwidth of growth opportunities through connections with other businesses, the development of our branded product ranges and licensing within and beyond our existing perimeters.

“Our immediate priority remains to support our franchise partners, ultimately for the benefit of our own business. We remain in discussions with several parties to restore critical mass alongside delivering our remaining core objectives. The underlying business has continually proved its resilience and the strength of the brand is evident from the interest it generates and the resultant discussions with potential strategic partners we are having.”

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Prada CEO Andrea Guerra says uncertainty triggered by tariff war is concerning

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By

Ansa

Translated by

Nicola Mira

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May 14, 2025

“I’m not concerned by tariffs, but by the uncertainty that this [tariff war] has created. It’s clear that we’re heading for less than wonderful times, but we have the conditions for doing well,” said Andrea Guerra, CEO of the Prada group, speaking at the Family Business Forum held in Arezzo, Italy.

Andrea Guerra – Courtesy of Prada

“Of course young people are leaving Italy, the important thing is that they come back eventually, it’s clear that it’s good for them to go. I think the really big opportunity is finding people who have been out [of the country] and bringing them back,” he added.

“We’ve come to a generation that no longer cares whatever someone in America might say. My children have a different perspective, they look to see if someone walks the walk as well as talking the talk. They reason differently, and the world is in their hands, in the hands of the 30-35-year-olds, whatever Mr Trump says,” said Guerra.

“In four to five months we will begin a journey with a label, [Versace], that has been one of the founders of luxury fashion in Italy. We’re talking about an exceptional name that surely has lost some of its shine, but over the course of one to five years we will try to understand how far we can take it again,” added Guerra. “In the luxury sector, patience is not a complementary ingredient, it’s an essential one, as are the calm and tranquillity of starting a fresh journey in the right way,” he concluded.

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12 bids filed for French womenswear chain Jennyfer, including by Beaumanoir, Pimkie and Celio

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Nicola Mira

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May 14, 2025

May 13 was the deadline for potential buyers of French fashion chain Jennyfer to file their bids. Jennyfer, which has 999 employees, was placed in judicial liquidation while continuing to trade on April 30, and FashionNetwork.com has learnt from sources close to the matter that 12 bids for the chain have been put forward, most of them for a partial acquisition. The bids will be officially presented to Jennyfer’s employee representatives at a committee meeting scheduled on May 15. Jennyfer, whose main consumer targets are teenagers and young women, was placed in receivership in 2023. In summer 2024, it was sold to two of its senior executives, Yann Pasco and Jean-Charles Gaume, backed by Shanghai Pure Fashion Garments Co. Ltd., a Chinese manufacturer producing for Jennyfer.

Last year, Jennyfer changed logo and name, dropping the words ‘don’t call me’ – Jennyfer

Jennyfer, which has been allowed to continue trading until May 28, currently runs 130 directly operated stores in France (plus 53 affiliated ones), and approximately 40 outside France. A store fleet that has attracted several potential buyers, including some big names in French retail.

FashionNetwork.com has learnt that Brittany-based group Beaumanoir (owner among others of Cache Cache, Bonobo, La Halle, and Boardriders) would like to buy 26 Jennyfer stores. “The units in question are positioned in strategic locations that would allow the Beaumanoir group to continue to extend the retail footprint of its existing brands,” Beaumanoir told FashionNetwork.com. The group’s bid reportedly means that 160 jobs would be saved. Beaumanoir is also interested in buying the rights to the Jennyfer brand, to have the option of subsequently relaunching it. 

A joint bid has been put forward by fashion retailers Celio and Pimkie, which are said to have agreed to acquire approximately 50 stores, the majority of them for Pimkie, which could still operate them under the Jennyfer name. Over 300 jobs would be involved in this bid. After an organisational overhaul, Pimkie has recently claimed to have found new momentum. Menswear retailer Celio would instead have the opportunity of expanding its fleet of ‘twin stores’ combining the Celio and Be Camaïeu brands, by adding seven new addresses, as Celio told FashionNetwork.com.

Jennyfer

Other bids relate only to Jennyfer’s inventory, notably by inventory clearance specialists like Noz, which in the past acquired the stock of several struggling brands, notably Minelli, Olly Gan, and Esprit. Finally, a few bids relate to a limited number of Jennyfer stores only.

All the bids will be examined by the Bobigny trade court on May 28. Until then, Jennyfer stores will continue to operate, but the brand’s e-shop has been closed.

Jennyfer deployed a recovery plan last year, which included revamping its brand image and broadening the consumer target, but in the last nine months the chain’s owners have failed to make the recovery a reality, penalised by “skyrocketing costs, slumping purchasing power, changes in the apparel market and increasingly aggressive international competition.”

Jennyfer was founded 40 years ago, and in 2023 it filed a redundancy plan that related to 75 positions at headquarters and logistics.

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Red Luxury buys men’s jewellery brand Le Gramme, plans London, NY stores

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May 14, 2025

Red Luxury, the watches-jewellery group founded in Paris in 2012 by Romain Bénichou and David-Emmanuel Cohen, has acquired French men’s jewellery brand Le Gramme. Le Gramme was founded in 2012 by Adrien Messié and Erwan Le Louër, and specialises in silver men’s bracelets named after their weight in grams. Le Gramme went into receivership in October 2023, and was liquidated in December 2024.

A bracelet by Le Gramme – DR

“Le Gramme has all the attributes of a major label: a strong identity, a clear positioning and a loyal clientèle. We will give [Le Gramme] the means to achieve a new dimension,” said Bénichou, president of Red Luxury and now also president of Le Gramme.

The brand’s new owners have drawn up plans to expand its footprint both in France and abroad.

“An ambitious expansion strategy is already under way, and we plan to soon open flagship stores in Paris, London and New York, strengthening the brand’s high-end positioning,” said Red Luxury in a press release, without providing details of the future store’s locations.

To steer Le Gramme on its new course, Red Luxury has named as managing director Mehmet Kartal, former head of fine and costume jewellery and watches at Parisian department store Printemps.

Le Gramme is currently available at 200 stores in 25 countries. In 2020, the brand boosted its retail presence in Paris with concessions at Le Bon Marché, Printemps Haussmann, and Galeries Lafayette Haussmann. Le Gramme has approximately 20 employees, and is chiefly active in France and the USA.

Red Luxury designs, produces and distributes proprietary brands like Ginette NY and licensed ones like Vilebrequin (watches) and Sonia Rykiel. Its latest published results date back to 2022, when it recorded a revenue of €40 million, and set itself the goal of reaching €100 million in 2027.

In July 2023, Red Luxury sold a minority stake to London investment fund Ewo Capital.
 

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