Long reserved for women or military dress, brooches adorned men’s chests during Milan Fashion Week, a throwback to a bygone era but with jewellery now signalling individuality, not just status.

From huge flowers or watch brooches at Dolce & Gabbana to pins at Armani, the bling passed from hands to jackets during the fall/winter 2026/2027 shows in the Italian city.

“I like these small details, people have to pay attention to them,” said reggaeton star Rauw Alejandro, in the front row at Prada.

Chinese buyer John Chen, 45, sported a gold brooch in the shape of a triangle, the Milanese brand’s logo, on a green sweater just below his neck. “I started wearing brooches about five years ago. I like to play with them” to personalise outfits, he told AFP.

In Armani’s refined yet relaxed collection, some men sported a tie pin on their jacket lapel, while male and female models wore matching sparkling brooches. At designer Rowen Rose, a large orange stone was used to fasten a green or yellow scarf to a matching sweater.

“It gives an extra touch. It’s a good accessory- it’s become very masculine,” said Fabio Annese, a 26-year-old Milanese interior designer sporting a heart-shaped brooch at Dolce & Gabbana.

Known for its extravagant style, D&G has been selling brooches for men since entering the jewellery world in 2015, and they are “still important in more formal collections,” a spokesperson said. Among their offerings are crosses, crowns, scarabs, and flowers in gold and embellished with diamonds, the last costing a cool 7,500 euros (around $8,800).

The trend is in many ways a return to the past. In Europe, until the 18th century, the “most important” jewellery was worn by men, explained Emanuela Scarpellini, professor of contemporary history at the University of Milan.

Wealthy and powerful men used it as a sign of their status, the glittering accessories often signalling membership of a noble family or a religious order, or military rank. It was only with the rise of the middle-classes and businessmen in the 19th century that came “the idea that men should dedicate themselves to work, with a more sober attitude,” Scarpellini said at the launch of a new Milan exhibition.

“The Gentlemen,” on show at the Palazzo Morando until September, reveals how men’s jewellery since then usually served a purpose, such as watches, cufflinks and tie pins. Nowadays “there’s a new freedom,” as with clothing, said exhibition curator Mara Cappelletti, a professor of jewellery history.

“There are fewer jewellery pieces with a function, and more with a freer choice,” she told AFP. “Many of the objects men wear today were not designed for a male audience,” she said, adding that many were vintage. “The brooch has never been so popular.”

Cappelletti noted that the trend was boosted by singers and actors wearing a lot of jewellery, noting a photograph of Italian singer Achille Lauro sporting a huge white gold and diamond sculpted piece on his chest, with matching earrings. All provided by the jeweller Damiani, which sponsors the pop star.