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Milan Menswear: Prada’s New Disrupted Beauty

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January 18, 2026

Leave it to Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons to overturn the whole Italian menswear fashion season, with the best show, slickest collection and coolest clothes, in a subtle comment on our current political predicament.
 

Prada – Fall-Winter2026 – 2027 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The convulsions of Gaza, Ukraine and even Minnesota echoed in giant new set inside Prada’s mammoth show-space. A massive series of building facades, porticos, doors, marble fireplaces and broken walls. A set that echoed artists Robert Matta Clark’s “anarchitecture” sculptures composed by breaking into derelict buildings to create new perspectives. Unsettling, yet magnificent, just like this Autumn-Winter 26 collection unveiled Sunday.
 
A collection created in the slimmest of silhouettes, a superb series of strict coats in speckled Donegal tweed, midnight blue serge; micro herring bone; or second skin leather. Cut with the softest of shoulders and finished below the knee, they were a counterblast to all the exaggerated volume that has dominated Italian catwalks this week. Some were so slim, they made a Hedi Slimane suit look like a sumo wrestler.

The clothes suggested a call for purity of form, of unearthing beauty or deconstructing to find the essence. Rather like the set – with its cracked brick and scores of houses bereft of any furniture.
 

Prada – Fall-Winter2026 – 2027 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

As the show progressed, fabrics became more distressed – again like the set. Several eroded trenches at the finale, looked like they had brick beneath the fabric. Leather car coats seemed made of cracked plaster. While several tops were printed like Delft dishes or foreign landscapes.
 
An elegant yet stylishly subversive collection, as the duo inverted masculine codes, and politicians dress. Cutting the collars of classic striped shirts; chain cufflinks dangling from French cuffs. Playing all sorts of tricks with gentlemanly or military hats – in atypical fabrics. Ironing them eccentrically or even sewing hats onto the shoulders.
 
“This was a very uncomfortable collection to create. Either you talk about the world now, or you talk about fashion. So, putting the two things together in this moment is very uncomfortable,” mused Miuccia Prada, attired in a golden slip dress, chocolate brown sweater and antique jewelry earrings.
 
The duo’s solution, she explained, was to celebrate beauty, and innovate sustainably. And to look for what’s essential. Like Prada’s fantastic new cardinal’s ecclesiastical cappa, finished with multi pockets. Made in bright green or yellow cotton, and worn over trench coats, they looked subtle yet revolutionary. 
 

Prada – Fall-Winter2026 – 2027 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Many looks were anchored by urban trail boots, ideal for a little agit-prop. Which kind of brought the collection right back to Raf Simons’ earliest signature shows, youthquake manifestations in the 90s. Albeit with a very different aesthetic.
 
“For me, personally, there has been moments in my career that I thought, what am I doing? I’m making clothes when there are so many other things could be done. But then you feel in the street, people reacting wherever you go. So, the intellectually honest thing that we have to do is our jobs the best we can. Bringing creativity, bringing quality, bringing understanding,” concluded Raf.

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Blumarine parent Blufin to cease production; 20 employees to be placed on furlough

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January 18, 2026

Rumours had been circulating in fashion circles for some time. Today brought confirmation, reported by the daily Il Resto del Carlino: Blufin, the joint-stock company behind the Blumarine brand, will cease production over the course of this year.

An extraordinary furlough scheme has already been planned for the 20 remaining employees, following voluntary redundancies on an individual basis that began in spring 2025. For the time being, both the company and the trade unions are maintaining the utmost confidentiality.

Blumarine – Spring/Summer 2026 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The Blufin group was officially founded in 1988, but its story began eleven years earlier, in 1977, when Anna Molinari and her husband, Gianpaolo Tarabini Castellani, founded Blumarine. The name evokes an open blue horizon: the sea, a symbol of endless journeys and possibilities.

The group was acquired in November 2019 by Eccellenze Italiane Holding (owner of the Liu Jo brand), since renamed Exelite, under its president Marco Marchi, with a plan to expand and assert itself on the global market, thereby sealing the union between the two fashion powerhouses from Carpi (MO).

Today, however, this development has been announced, following closely on the heels of the transfer of the business unit comprising Blufin’s stores and outlet stores to Marchi’s holding company, Exelite S.p.A. According to the Bologna-based daily, the transfer has been effective since January 1 and has resulted in all Blumarine store employees joining Exelite’s workforce.

The transaction was described by Marchi as a “strategic choice” aimed at “the development and protection of the Blumarine brand.”

All this in a market context described as “extremely complex, due to the concurrence of various factors.” For Marchi, “the sale is part of a broader logic of group synergy,” Il Resto del Carlino further reported.

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Rimmel taps gymnast Lily Smith for Thrill Seeker mascara launch

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January 18, 2026

Rimmel London has teamed up with Red Bull to tap gymnast Lily Smith as the face of the launch of Rimmel’s new Thrill Seeker Mega Lift Mascara.

Rimmel taps gymnast Lily Smith for Thrill Seeker mascara launch. – Rimmel London

As part of the partnership, the five-time national All-American gymnast performed a daring 90-second balance beam routine 52 stories above street level. The routine, developed independently by Smith, featured challenging maneuvers including a front-toss-pike on a beam that extended 9.5 feet above the rooftop—twice the height of a standard competition balance beam. 

“Partnering with Red Bull on this adrenaline-fueled project, 52 stories above the ground, is an incredible moment for Rimmel,” said Janine Fernandes, vice president of global marketing for Rimmel London.

“Lily’s extraordinary achievement and fearless ambition, mirrors our own 190-year heritage of empowering bold self-expression. Bringing these two powerhouse brands together for the launch of our new Thrill Seeker Mega Lift mascara was a natural fit, and we’re excited to keep pushing the limits, in beauty and beyond.”

Smith will appear across Rimmel’s global campaign for the Thrill Seeker Mega Lift Mascara across social media and digital platforms starting January 2026.

“Performing this routine in such a unique and unusual setting, ahead of my college season, was a total thrill for me and I’m so excited to have had the opportunity, thanks to Rimmel London and Red Bull. This challenge reflects what I strive for in my sport – pushing limits, embracing creativity, and expressing my own style,” said Smith.

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Muji to open largest European store in Paris

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January 18, 2026

The successor to C&A at 126, rue de Rivoli has finally been revealed. After more than two years of work to rehabilitate the historic building, which for many years housed the flagship of the Dutch fashion chain, Redevco announced on January 16 that another international fashion player will open its French flagship within the BPM project by late 2026.

Rendering of the building at 126, rue de Rivoli after renovation – Redevco

With a planned footprint of 2,700 square metres, Muji shows that Uniqlo is not the only ambitious Japanese brand in France and Europe. The Japanese advocate of the “no brand” concept (Mujirushi Ryohin) has set its sights on one of the capital’s busiest thoroughfares. The store will be among the largest in Europe, eclipsing the already generous format at Forum des Halles.

It marks a milestone for Muji, whose Paris story began in 1998, when the brand quietly took its first steps on Rue Saint‑Sulpice, attracting a Left Bank clientele of insiders. In nearly thirty years, the brand has spread to the Marais, Saint‑Lazare and Bastille, with six stores. But the forthcoming Rivoli location, with its XXL format over three levels, signals a shift in approach on a thoroughfare that sees nearly 15 million visitors a year.

Muji to expand its range in Europe

“The future store will offer 2,500 square metres of sales space across three levels (basement, ground floor and first floor). For the brand, it’s a genuine relaunch in Paris and then in London, before rolling this proposition out across Europe,” Uriel Karsenti, the brand’s Europe director, told FashionNetwork.com.

“Our strategy is to align Muji’s image at a global level. The aim is to expand the sales area to present a much more comprehensive range.”

Today, Muji offers barely half the range available in its stores in Japan. In its new flagship, the brand will be able to present around 85% of the Japanese range, including the childrenswear collection, as well as skincare, and a much stronger selection of accessories, homeware and electronics.

In its future flagship, Muji will broaden the number of product categories on show to bring it closer to its Japanese concept
In its future flagship, Muji will broaden the number of product categories on show to bring it closer to its Japanese concept – Muji

“This will be our largest store in Europe, after our Finnish location, which is unique in having a restaurant. We are currently looking for a site in London, in the Oxford Street area, where we already have a store,” explained the executive, who hopes for a major opening in the English capital in 2027.

“The flagship is important for the group’s management, as it is a showcase project that will test Muji’s potential for international expansion, a significant growth driver for the Japanese leadership.”

The store, whose concept has been entrusted to Atelier Tsuyoshi Tane Architects (At‑ta), is due to open in October in a building completely refurbished by the owner.

The location is significant, and C&A attracted generations of customers here before closing in 2023. The owner, Redevco, has initiated a complete overhaul of the building to breathe new life into the 13,000 square metre complex. Dubbed “BPM” (for “Beats Per Minute”), the project, entrusted to architect Franklin Azzi, goes beyond a simple façade renovation. The future Muji flagship will be spread over three levels, but it will not be the only new feature: the building will also house a 57‑room Radisson Collection hotel, upmarket offices (the LVMH group is reportedly in the running for part of the space) and, more surprisingly, an urban logistics hub in the basement. Redevco says it was also keen to preserve the soul of the site by maintaining a listed 13th‑century crypt and opening a landscaped rooftop accessible to the public, offering a bird’s‑eye view over the rooftops of Paris.

With another fashion brand yet to be unveiled, Muji—whose parent company, Ryohin Keikaku, closed its 2024‑25 financial year at the end of August with global sales of 785 billion yen (around €4.3 billion) from some 1,450 stores worldwide—is bringing its full hybrid fashion‑and‑home concept to a Parisian thoroughfare that is reinventing itself.

Muji’s management, for whom the North American and European markets account for 5% of activity, intends to build on its positive momentum, having reported double‑digit growth in Europe in the first quarter of 2025‑26, supported by around 30 stores across nine markets.

The expanded range will also be progressively rolled out on its website next season. This is a major development and could prompt Muji to review its current French network, comprising five stores in Paris and one in Lyon. Following the opening of its flagship, Muji may look for new, larger spaces in the years to come.

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