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Milan Fashion Week: Marni’s Preservation Hall

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February 27, 2025

There is no more fertile fashion imagination in Milanese fashion than Francesco Risso, whose latest collection for Marni was the fruit of an intense artistic collaboration with Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend.

Marni fall/winter 2025 collection in Milan – Courtesy

A collaboration that began with all three of them “locked together in a studio in London for a month,” in Risso’s words, and ended with their paintings displayed on the show-space walls and printed onto many outfits. Large images of wolves, fox tails, dark birds, flying pigs; the fruit of a residency he dubbed “The Pink Sun”.
 
All presented inside a surreal mock jazz club, where every item of furniture was draped into hand-painted black and white tablecloths or chair covers.  Though this fall 2025 collection, on the other hand, was an explosion of color. 

“For me, this collection is the Marni Preservation Hall,” added Risso. Pre-show, waiters served Martini vermouth spritzes, as guests admired the art.
 

Marni fall/winter 2025 collection in Milan – Courtesy

Showing composite cool fashion: Crombie coats that become cocoons, tube skirts that had plenty of kick, and shirt dresses morphed into gowns. “Deconstructed or reconstructed, where I wanted to show my love of Marni. And where every piece was ‘a seed vault’,” explained the ever-philosophical Francesco.
 
Pragmatism mixed with practicality, he claimed where embroidered flowers bloomed from satin dresses, and gowns had fantastical biomorphic shapes.
 
Risso even indulged in several cool inside witticisms, like using his close friend and fellow designer Laurence Steele as a model, in an Edwardian top coat trimmed with fox tails. Or attiring his pal Aymeline Valade in a Victorian falling-off-the-shoulders red satin gown, finished with black wool shoulders, from which drooped fabric flowers. Its back finished with the same print of a pumpkin head seen as the show backdrop. 
 
Slawn and Soldier are Nigerian artists living in London, whom Francesco met in a random encounter. “Slawn an instinctive artist. Soldier is a Renaissance style creator. I sculpt with color,” expounded the very thrilled Risso, who later Wednesday night hosted an opening in his Milan home of their art. 
 

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Steve Madden reports 15% revenue surge in 2024

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9 minutes ago

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February 26, 2025

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February 26, 2025

American footwear brand Steve Madden announced on Wednesday a 15.2% increase in 2024 full-year revenue to $2,282.9 million, following a double-digit jump in wholesale revenues in the fourth quarter. 

Steve Madden reports 15% revenue surge in 2024. – Steve Madden

The Long Island City, New York-based company said fourth quarter revenue increased 12% to $582.3 million, backed by a 13.6% increase in its wholesale business. Wholesale footwear revenue increased 1%, while wholesale accessories and apparel revenue increased 35.4%. 

In the quarter, direct-to-consumer revenue was $176.0 million, an 8.4% increase compared to the fourth quarter of 2023, driven by increases in both the brick-and-mortar and e-commerce businesses.

Profit as a percentage of direct-to-consumer revenue was relatively flat at 62%, compared to 62.7% in the fourth quarter of 2023, driven by an increase in promotional activity.

“We are pleased to have delivered earnings results at the high end of our guidance range for the fourth quarter and full year 2024. For the year, revenue grew 15% and Adjusted diluted EPS increased 9% compared to 2023,” said Edward Rosenfeld, chairman and chief executive officer.

“Our strong performance in 2024 was driven by our team’s disciplined execution of our key strategic initiatives, with robust gains in international markets, non-footwear categories and direct-to-consumer channels, as well as a return to revenue growth in our U.S. wholesale footwear business.”

Earlier this month, Steve Madden announced plans to buy UK-based luxury brand Kurt Geiger in an all-cash deal valued at $360.09 million, expanding its presence in international markets.

For 2025, the company expects revenue will increase 17% to 19% compared to 2024. Diluted EPS is expected to be in the range of $2.30 to $2.40, assuming the Kurt Geiger acquisition closes on May 1, 2025.

“Looking ahead, we are cautious on the near-term outlook, as we face meaningful headwinds in 2025, most notably the impact of new tariffs on goods imported into the United States. That said, we have a proven ability to navigate difficult market conditions with our agile business model, and we are set to add a powerful new growth engine to the company with the pending acquisition of Kurt Geiger, which we expect to close in the second quarter of 2025,” added Rosenfeld.

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Germany’s Beiersdorf to buy back shares worth 500 million euros

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February 26, 2025

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February 26, 2025

Nivea maker Beiersdorf said on Thursday it will launch a share buyback program of up to 500 million euros ($524.85 million) in 2025.

Reuters

The program is expected to commence after the company’s 2025 annual general meeting and conclude by the end of the year.

In October, the firm reported a rise in group sales for the first nine months of 2024, and said it expected a strong fourth quarter despite persisting challenges in the Chinese luxury market.

The German skincare company also completed a 500 million euro share buyback program in 2024.

The company will report its full-year 2024 results on Thursday.

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Winky Lux names new CEO

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February 26, 2025

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February 26, 2025

Clean cosmetics brand Winky Lux announced on Wednesday the appointment of Lauren Bloomer as its new chief executive officer.

Lauren Bloomer, left, Natalie Mackey – Courtesy

The move follows a period of expansion  at the New York-based company, including a majority investment from Core Industrial Partners in July 2024.

With the appointment of Bloomer, co-founder Natalie Mackey will continue to drive the brand’s creative evolution as creative director.

“I am honored to join a brand as spirited and innovative as Winky Lux,” said Bloomer. 

“Working closely with Natalie, whose creative vision has been the heartbeat of this company from day one, I look forward to building upon its strong foundation. Together, we will further ignite the brand’s growth, ensuring that each new chapter reflects our commitment to quality, creativity, and fun.”

A consumer goods and beauty expert, Bloomer brings more than 23 years of expertise in brand strategy, omnichannel growth, and team leadership to Winky Lux. 

Before joining Winky Lux, the executive served as president of the Good Glamm Group, where she oversaw international expansion and served as a board member for WYN Beauty by Serena Williams. She also spent 14 years at the Estee Lauder Companies, where she held leadership positions at Becc Cosmetics, the Estee Lauder brand, and Clinique. She also held previous positions at the Clorox Company and the Boston Consulting Group.

“I have always believed that great leadership fuels creative innovation,” said Mackey. “After an extensive search for a visionary leader who shares our passion for redefining beauty, I am thrilled to introduce Lauren as our new CEO. This decision is a pivotal step for Winky Lux as we continue to grow while staying true to our core values of Joy, Playfulness and Community.”

Founded in 2015 by Natalie Mackey and Nate Newman, Winky Lux is an innovative beauty brand that offers “clean, joyful” makeup.
 

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