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Microplastics: study highlights the drawbacks of recycled polyester

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December 15, 2025

In a report of around 40 pages, the Dutch NGO Changing Markets casts doubt on polyester’s virtuous image, suggesting it releases far more microplastics than virgin polyester, according to research conducted at Çukurova University in Turkey.

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The university carried out tests on 51 “representative” garments from the product ranges of the brands Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein, and Zara. The document, reviewed by FashionNetwork, indicates that recycled polyester sheds 54.8% more microplastic particles. The NGO believes this figure may even be an underestimate.

Changing Markets argues that the polyester presented as recycled by Shein is not actually recycled. This appears to be borne out by the platform itself, as the word “recycled” has disappeared from the product pages of certain items. According to the study, this “polyester fraud” is commonplace in the textile industry, with the study noting evidence of similar practices at H&M and Nike.

When Shein products are excluded from the analysis, the volume of microfibres released is 72% higher than for virgin polyester. The document also notes that microfibres from recycled polyester are 20% smaller than those released by virgin polyester.

Use of bottles under scrutiny

Why the disparity? The study offers little explanation, simply noting that recycling processes, whether chemical or mechanical, weaken polymer chains, creating shorter, more imperfect molecular structures.

However, this is not the study’s main focus, which primarily targets the conversion of plastic bottles into polyester, with 98% of recycled polyester not coming from recycled textiles and clothing. Changing Markets likens this to a form of greenwashing, and argues that the practice misleads consumers about the supposed environmental virtue of these products.

The study was unable to compare shedding due to the lack of virgin polyester at Zara and of uniform materials at Adidas. The material marketed by Shein is suspected of not actually being recycled.
The study was unable to compare shedding due to the lack of virgin polyester at Zara and of uniform materials at Adidas. The material marketed by Shein is suspected of not actually being recycled. – Changing Markets

“Recycled polyester has become a practical solution for the industry, allowing brands to claim progress in reducing their reliance on virgin plastic while increasing overall synthetic fibre production,” reads the study. “Textile Exchange data makes this clear: although recycled polyester volumes increased last year, its overall market share fell from 12.5% to 12%, as virgin polyester grew even faster.”

Disputed findings

Nike proved the most polluting (for both virgin and recycled fabrics), ahead of Adidas: Nike’s recycled polyester shed over 30,000 fibres per gram of garment on average, nearly four times more than H&M and seven times more than Zara.

Adidas maintains that it sees “an environmental benefit in using recycled polyester,” a spokesperson told AFP, because “no crude oil needs to be processed and plastic waste is reused.”

“Compared with virgin polyester, it generates far fewer greenhouse gas emissions,” continued the German sportswear company, citing other scientific studies, such as that by the NGO Microfibre Consortium, which find no significant differences between recycled and virgin fibres when it comes to microfibre shedding.

“The H&M Group shares concerns about the environmental impact of fibre fragments,” the Swedish brand told AFP, pointing out that polyester accounts for only 22% of its production and saying it is working in particular on “research into production processes that reduce the release of particles.”

For now, Nike, Shein, and Zara have not responded to AFP’s requests regarding the study’s findings.

FashionNetwork.com with AFP

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Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Passport for fashion aims to end industry greenwashing

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December 16, 2025

Clothes destined for Europe could soon require digital passports to prove their green credentials, opening a new era of transparency for the world’s $1.7-trillion fashion industry.

Digital product passports could transform the textile industry in Bangladesh – Shutterstock

Consumers will be able to scan QR codes or electronic tags to see the garments’ digital product passports (DPPs) and check if a fashion brand’s green claims are true. The passports will tell consumers what the clothes are made of, how much energy, water and chemicals were used to make them, and who took part in each stage of their production.

Textile suppliers from Bangladesh, the world’s second largest apparel exporter, may need to implement an initial version ⁠of the passport as early as 2027, according to analysis by the European Parliamentary Research Service.

“As consumers place a higher premium on sustainability and transparency, the digital product passport could be a key tool to provide granular records about the ⁠environmental footprint of each piece of cloth- starting from the cotton field to finished garment,” said Asif Ibrahim, vice chairman of the Dhaka-based apparel manufacturing company Newage Group of Industries. But Ibrahim said smaller manufacturers were far from ready to fulfil the stringent, new European Union (EU) needs, which aim to stop manufacturers overclaiming their green credentials.

From payroll information to material certifications, fashion makers already provide reams of ‍data about labour ‌and environmental standards to meet buyers’ requirements and audits. Yet a 2023 report by the British-based NGO Greenpeace said some brands and suppliers had misled ⁠consumers- for instance highlighting their recycling record, even if ‌most of the ‘recycled’ fibre came from plastic bottles not textile scraps.

“Providing authentic and traceable data from across the supply chain ‌is key to stop the problem of greenwashing,” said Rezwan Ahmed, CEO of Aus Bangla Jutex Ltd, a company producing bags, caps and aprons from recycled and organic cotton.

Bangladeshi suppliers have already started working with technology companies to get ready for the changes. Ahmed has partnered with Aware, a Dutch firm working with several fashion suppliers, using decentralised blockchain to record relevant data as fabric becomes a finished garment.

A manufacturer inputs key pieces ‍of data- perhaps yarn count, water consumption or colour- and Aware’s blockchain-based platform then generates a QR code for consumers. “The manufacturers will have control over what they disclose to their brands and consumers- as we want to give the manufacturers ownership of data,” said Md. Muyeed Hasan, Bangladesh country manager at Aware.

Cotton ginners, ‌washers and dye factories, as well ⁠as ​the makers of finished garments, will all upload any relevant data and certificates to their digital profiles, then must add details ⁠about each batch ​of production in real time. Claims about energy and water usage will be verified by third parties, he told the Thomson Reuters Foundation.

The passport may require Bangladesh’s smaller garment makers to upgrade their hardware and software capacity as well as how they manage their data, said Ibrahim from the ​Newage Group. Smaller manufacturers make up a large share of Bangladesh’s roughly 3,320 export-oriented apparel factories, according to Mapped in Bangladesh, a project developed by BRAC University in the Bangladeshi capital.

British-based DigiProdPass has partnered with Bangladesh’s garment manufacturers’ association BGMEA to ⁠help smaller producers meet the new passport requirements. Salauddin Sohag, managing director of DigiProdPass, said ⁠his company is rolling out pilot studies and plans to train smaller businesses to help them adapt.

“Suppliers will need support from global fashion brands and development organisations to upgrade their capacity- while the government should incentivise the early adopters,” said Ibrahim. 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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India’s Senco Gold & Diamonds launches men’s jewellery brand Aham

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December 16, 2025

Fine jewellery brand Senco Gold & Diamonds has expanded its men’s offering and launched new brand ‘Aham,’ designed to cater to modern Indian grooms with a range of gold, diamond, and platinum options.

A look from Senco Gold & Diamonds’ new brand Aham – Senco Gold & Diamonds – Facebook

 
“Aham draws inspiration from the evolving equal relationships of modern Indian couples where the groom’s style is now as significant as the bride’s,” said Senco Gold & Diamonds’ director and head of marketing and designs Joita Sen in a press release. “What we’ve seen in most Indian weddings so far is the groom looking on indulgently as his better half glitters in her wedding jewellery. With Aham, we wanted to change that narrative and have the couple dazzle equally in their Senco adornments! Each piece of this collection allows the groom the freedom to express his personal style, most naturally and effortlessly.”
 
Now available in Senco Gold & Diamonds’ pan-India brick-and-mortar stores, online, and on the Senco shopping app, Aham’s ‘Wedding Season Collection’ presents a contemporary take on traditional wedding jewellery. The label’s maiden collection features over 800 designs including kadas, platinum wristwear, diamond-set rings, and more minimalist cufflinks, along with a selection of fusion pieces in two-tone styles.

Senco Gold & Diamonds’ parent company Senco Gold Limited was incorporated in Kolkata in 1994, according to its website. The business counts over 175 stores in India.  

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Kering and Ardian finalise New York property deal

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Reuters

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December 16, 2025

Gucci owner Kering and private equity firm Ardian said on Tuesday they had completed a joint venture agreement for a New York property deal valued at $900 million.

Kering’s brands include Saint Laurent, Gucci, and Balenciaga – Reuters

Under the deal ⁠concluded earlier this year, Kering is contributing the property at 715-717 ⁠Fifth Avenue in New York to a newly created joint venture with Ardian, the companies said ‍in a joint ‌statement. Ardian will hold a 60% stake in ⁠this, with ‌Kering retaining 40% and receiving $690 million in ‌net proceeds.

The transaction is part of Kering’s broader strategy to secure control of high-profile retail locations while also raising cash. In January, ‍Kering said it had transferred three of its Paris real estate assets to a new joint venture ‌with ⁠Ardian, ​freeing up 837 million euros ⁠in proceeds.

“Like ​the investment agreement already signed in Paris, this transaction allows us to secure another ​long term highly prominent retail location for our houses while enhancing our financial ⁠flexibility,” said Kering ⁠chief operating officer Jean-Marc Duplaix, commenting on the New York Ardian deal. 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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