At the initiative of Portugal Fashion, the Portuguese-British label Marques’Almeida (M’A) returned to the runway in London, where it is based, even as the Portuguese founders, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida—both alumni of the famed Central Saint Martins—now spend extended periods in their homeland to teach and seek inspiration for their collections, including this spring–summer 2026 line-up, unveiled as part of London Fashion Week on Sunday, September 21, on the 59th floor of 22 Bishopsgate, the second-tallest skyscraper in London.

Playing with the refrain of the song ‘Be Brave’ by the band My Brightest Diamond, models of all ages—including a pregnant woman and a young mother with her baby in her arms—paraded through the empty space of the London skyscraper to the sound of “Sh-Sh-Shara now get to work / Sh-Sh-Shara this is going to hurt / Be brave dear one / Be changed or be undone / Be brave dear one Be changed or be undone,” paying homage to women who must juggle work and family life—a message that can also be read as a critique of a life that rushes by without being savoured.

Indeed, the new collection was a manifestation of pure poetry that rivals the last one attended amid the vineyards of a romantic Portuguese Douro.

By contrast, the beautiful women showcased by the Portuguese duo—irrespective of age or conventional notions of beauty—present an endless array of looks, from the simple and innocent, where oversized flowers set the tone, to elaborate couture with unusual cuts and silhouettes so sophisticated they make one wonder how you even slip in and out of them. And the brand’s signature denim, always pushing further with singular washes and designs, does justice to M’A’s DNA.

As Marques’Almeida’s press release noted, surprise is a constant in the interplay between, on the one hand, “softness and lightness as a gesture of change in a time that feels volatile”, aided by ethereal fabrics such as “translucent draping and asymmetrical layers, in undeniable elegance”, which “open the way to the delicacy of colour and flowers”.

“Then, grounded in the familiarity of an effortless rebellion, the collection expands unashamedly, blossoming in hope and light,” the M’A note via Portugal Fashion further explains, adding: “Faded flowers in watercolour appear printed on transparent voiles and cotton poplin, illuminating dark bases that give way to light layers, draped in an almost handkerchief-like gesture.”

The palette is equally soothing, awakened here and there by stronger notes, as seen in the footwear, which includes closed-toe flat sandals reminiscent of childhood (to keep toes straight), in contrast with sturdy, knee-high boots—the knee, which tradition once dictated should be concealed in the floaty looks of haute couture (and others) for being considered inelegant; today, anything goes and the more skin on show, the better. Such is this collection, which mixes the exclusive and the delicate with the casual, even with a rock edge.

It is thus a “chromatic narrative” that “runs through deep burgundy, black and olive green, before opening to powdery yellows, pinks and sky blues, in a constant balance between structure and transparency, tension and release,” the note continued.

According to Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, “the SS26 collection marks a confident evolution, where the aesthetic softens without losing its identity. Luxurious satins, translucent voiles and delicate hues add a new dimension to the brand’s rebellious energy,” they noted in the statement, emphasising that “denim—an inescapable part of the brand’s DNA—appears in bubble hems and clean silhouettes, but also in the irreverent comfort of wide jeans and multiple pockets”, earning top marks. In turn, the classics “make way for flowing dresses and voluminous ensembles, setting a new tone.”

The premiere of the collection took place “in a setting of breathtaking impact”, given the soaring catwalk, on the 59th floor of London’s second-tallest skyscraper—a “warehouse in the sky” that embraced the entire city from above and will soon host a Gordon Ramsay restaurant.

“Celebrated as a ‘vertical village’ that promotes community and collaboration, this space translated the spirit of the collection with precision: softness and lightness hovering over the city, amplifying themes of vulnerability and transformation,” the note underscored about M’A’s latest collection for next summer, which asserts itself “as an embrace of change: fragile, fearless and full of light.”

It is also worth noting that the brand has now teamed up with Dylon Detergent, driven by the belief that garments should be made to last and be passed down through generations in good condition. The result of the collab: five ensembles washed with Dylon’s exclusive formula, which revitalises colours and restores fibres.

This time, each guest received a scarf designed to endure and be cherished for as long as it lasts.