An Italian court has placed LVMH group’s high-end Italian cashmere firm Loro Piana under judicial administration for one year after allegedly uncovering labor exploitation within its supply chain, marking the latest in a series of cases that have damaged the reputation of Italy’s luxury sector.
Italian court places Loro Piana under judicial administration. – Ansa
Loro Piana SpA is the fifth fashion company to be targeted by the same Milan court for similar labor violations since 2023, according to a 26-page ruling reviewed by Reuters on Monday.
Units of fashion brands Valentino, LVMH’s Dior, Italy’s Armani, and Italian handbag company Alviero Martini have also been placed under administration.
The court found that Loro Piana, known for its luxury cashmere garments, subcontracted production through two front companies with no actual manufacturing capacity to Chinese-owned workshops in Italy, which reportedly exploited workers.
According to the ruling, Loro Piana “culpably failed” to properly monitor its suppliers in order to pursue higher profits.
The Milan court also appointed an external administrator to ensure the company implements effective tools to monitor its supply chain and meet judicial requirements.
Loro Piana declined to comment. LVMH was not immediately available for comment.
The court stated that the administration period may end earlier if the brand aligns its practices with legal standards, as previously seen with Dior, Armani, and Alviero Martini.
LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group, acquired 80% of Loro Piana in July 2013, with the remaining 20% retained by the Italian family that founded the company.
In their ruling, Milan judges emphasized that despite widespread reporting of previous violations, “this production chain, headed by Loro Piana, has continued to operate until now.”
The court also highlighted that the issues persisted even after representatives of Italy’s fashion industry signed an agreement with political and legal authorities in May to combat worker exploitation.
The owners of the contracting and subcontracting firms are currently under investigation by Milan prosecutors for labor exploitation and employing undocumented workers. Loro Piana SpA itself is not under criminal investigation.
Prosecutors in the case described the violations as part of a “generalized and consolidated manufacturing method” across Italy’s fashion industry.
Italy is home to thousands of small manufacturers, which collectively account for an estimated 50%–55% of global luxury goods production, according to consulting firm Bain.
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.