The LVMH Luxury Ventures investment fund is in the news again, after acquiring a minority stake in French niche perfumery brand BDK Parfums. The goal of the operation is to enable BDK to expand internationally by opening flagship stores, and to add to its product range.
LVMH Luxury Ventures has acquired a minority stake in BDK Parfums – BDK Parfums
The financial details of the operation, which was completed on November 26, have not been divulged. It is the first time that BDK Parfums has opened a door to external investors. The timing is by no means random. The global perfume market, estimated to be worth $50.46 billion in 2024, is set to grow to $53.04 billion in 2025, according to a Fortune Business Insights study released in November. Niche perfumes have been driving this growth for nearly a year, if not more.
International expansion
BDK has set its sights on the Asian market, especially on Japan and South Korea, and already has a presence in some 40 countries. The brand’s main market is France, followed by the USA and Germany. The Middle East is another of its key markets, with a store opening in Dubai set to take place soon, and sales in the UK are increasing rapidly. BDK has recently launched in Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Indonesia.
BDK is specialised in niche perfumes – BDK Parfums
Since 2024, LVMH Luxury Ventures has invested in ready-to-wear labels Our Legacy, Gabriela Hearst, Aimé Léon Doré and Molli, in Scandinavian luggage brand Db, and in beauty brand Officine Universelle Buly. The latter was eventually acquired by LVMH, and on November 27 it opened a store at 29 rue de Richelieu, in Paris’s first arrondissement.
Preserving creativity
“A huge thank you to Julie Bercovy Alessandro Magnani and Timothée Le Guay for their trust,” wrote BDK’s founder and designer David Benedek on LinkedIn. “I’m confident that our shared vision of contemporary perfumery will continue to shape BDK Parfums’s growth while preserving its identity and its olfactory and aesthetic creativity,” he added.
BDK inaugurated a Parisian flagship in 2024, and is planning to open new stores outside France – DR
In a press release, Bercovy, CEO of LVMH Luxury Ventures Advisors, said that “we are delighted to support BDK Parfums in its new expansion phase, especially internationally, and we appreciate the quality of its fragrances.” According to Women’s Wear Daily, Benedek is also working with Joel Palix, founder of consulting firm Palix Unlimited, specialised in the niche perfumery segment.
Sales unaffected by controversy
BDK’s strategy is to open a spate of new stores, beginning in 2026, also focusing on its customers’ in-store experience. The brand opened its first flagship in January 2024 on rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. BDK is also planning to invest in its e-shop, which currently generates approximately 10% of the brand’s revenue.
Gris Charnel is one of BDK’s best-sellers – BDK Parfums
BDK continues on an upward growth track in the market, posting a 45% sales increase this year, despite last year’s controversy, sparked by Benedek’s support for Israel on social media. He has since watered down his support, saying he condemns “everything that is currently happening in Gaza,” after a call to boycott BDK was issued online.
LVMH Luxury Ventures has acquired a stake in BDK at a time when many investors are keenly interested in niche perfume brands, as shown by Kering’s sale of Kering Beauty and Creed to L’Oréal in October.
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.