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Luxury sector faced with flight of aspirational clients, dissatisfaction of top-tier ones

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Nicola Mira

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July 9, 2025

The luxury industry, currently disrupted by unfavourable economic conditions and growing geopolitical tensions, is also having to adapt to the whims of a rapidly changing clientèle. Aspirational clients are increasingly disenchanted with luxury, and this is having a profound impact on the market. In parallel, top-tier clients (or very important clients, VICs), whose numbers greatly increased in the last few years, are dissatisfied with the performance of luxury labels. These were the main findings of the ‘True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight 2025’ study carried out by Boston Consulting Group (BCG), which was presented on Tuesday in Milan during a conference organised by Altagamma, the association of Italy’s top luxury labels.

According to a BCG study, luxury goods are less the stuff of dreams than before – ph Dyana Wing So – Unsplash

For the second consecutive year, the high-end luxury market posted a revenue drop (down 2% in 2025 as in 2024). The reasons were the diminished appetite of Chinese consumers, decreasing interest on the part of the newer generations, whose purchasing power has shrunk, and especially a downturn in purchases by aspirational consumers. In 2013, the latter accounted for 74% of the total luxury market’s value, but in 2024 they accounted for only 61%, a loss of 13 percentage points in 10 years, and a phenomenon that inexorably seems set to continue.

In recent years, the purchasing power of aspirational clients has decreased, while the price of luxury goods has skyrocketed. According to the BCG study, nearly 35% of clients in this cluster said they have stopped or reduced their luxury purchases in the last 12 months, while 65% said their expenditure will remain stable or diminish in the next 12 months. The study also showed that this loss in luxury revenue benefited other sectors. For one-fifth (22%) of aspirational clients, it turned into savings. For the remainder of the cluster, it shifted to more urgent expenditure categories like health and well-being (13%), purchases of pre-owned luxury goods (13%), or other expenditure.

“Aspirational clients still account for more than half of the market’s total value. Labels cannot afford to do without them,” said Luca Solca, an analyst at Bernstein. Given the context, “the resale channel might provide a means of keeping some of these clients, and/or of drawing them towards luxury labels,” said Enrico Galliera, head of sales and marketing at Ferrari, one of the speakers at the conference organised by Altagamma for the 11th edition of the Altagamma Consumer & Retail Insight survey.

“Some of our clients first came to us when they bought a second-hand [Ferrari]. It’s an access channel we’re monitoring closely. It’s true that aspirational clients are currently prudent and hesitant, but we aren’t always capable of identifying them and scouting them out. What we’re doing is tapping alternative categories, for example our ready-to-wear line, to get them acquainted with our world. We’re also trying to get in touch with young consumers,” said Galliera.

0.1% of clients spend more than €50,000 per year

Aspirational clients at the bottom of the pyramid, who spend less than €2,000 per year on average, account for 90% of personal and experiential luxury consumers, while top-tier clients, at the pyramid’s top, who spend over €50,000 per year with an average spend of approximately €350,000, account for only 0.1% of the total. However, while the aspirational clients’ share of personal and experiential luxury expenditure fell from 65% (worth €479 billion) of the market’s value in 2013, to 55% in 2024 (when it was worth €563 billion), the share of expenditure by top-tier clients soared, from 12% (€88 billion) in 2013 to 23% (€236 billion) in 2024. 

Evolution of the various segments of the luxury consumer pyramid since 2013
Evolution of the various segments of the luxury consumer pyramid since 2013 – BCG – Altagamma

Being greatly exposed to aspirational clients has had repercussions for the majority of labels. “The more labels are dependent on this type of consumer, the more they are exposed to their volatility, and the more they have suffered,” said Filippo Bianchi, one of the BCG study’s authors. “The luxury expenditure of this cluster of consumers is deeply linked to economic cycle fluctuations, while VIC expenditure is inversely related to them, because it is based on the clients’ wealth status,” he added.

Nevertheless, the study showed that the situation could change in the next 18 months, with the propensity to buy luxury goods increasing by 10% for aspirational clients and by 36% for top-tier clients. The fact remains that the latter feel they aren’t valued enough by labels, and might choose to spend their money elsewhere. “The number of top-tier clients went from 750,000 in 2023 to 900,000 in 2024, so 150,000 new clients entered the luxury sector’s top end. Yet labels are still struggling to find, engage and segment them,” said Guia Ricci, the BCG study’s other author.

“VICs are chiefly based in North America, and beyond there in Europe and Asia-Pacific, a region where the value of their luxury expenditure is growing vigorously, especially in India, Indonesia and Thailand. They are increasingly attracted by experiential luxury. It is a must for labels to understand what these consumers’ interests are and how to approach them in the experiential segment, maybe through partnerships,” she added.

The study highlighted the four main issues that are causing top-tier clients to become disenchanted. Firstly, they are bombarded by messages coming from countless labels, with no personalisation whatsoever. Secondly, top-tier clients regard their in-store experiences as too noisy and not discreet enough, as the VIP spaces that used to be reserved for them have lately been vanishing. Thirdly, top-tier clients said that, while craftsmanship is a key purchase driver, product quality is often not as high as expected, even for bespoke products. Finally, the majority of top-tier clients think that their status as important people isn’t recognised enough, and the service they receive isn’t of a sufficient standard. Indeed, the study found that 70% of potential VICs aren’t correctly identified by labels because of the way the latter’s CRM/segmentation works.

Luxury labels are therefore urged to re-focus on client relations, perhaps helped by AI, to concentrate on experiences, to better monitor product quality and their supply chain, and to implement all these policies assisted by more granular data analysis and more sophisticated consumer segmentation, in order to better recognise their top-tier clients.

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Burberry elevates two SVPs to supply chain and customer exec roles

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December 5, 2025

Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.

Burberry – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm. 

In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.

Matteo Calonaci - Burberry
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry

Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.

Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.

JohnattanLeon - Burberry
JohnattanLeon – Burberry

Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.

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Puneet Gupta steps into fine jewellery

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December 5, 2025

Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.

Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta

 
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”

The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.

An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta

 
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.

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Celine unveils flagship boutique in Vienna

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December 5, 2025

In a first for the Alpine republic, Celine is opening its debut store in Austria. With a new opening on the prestigious Kohlmarkt in the heart of Vienna, the French luxury house, which recently drew attention with Michael Rider’s debut, also aims to underscore the importance of the German-speaking markets. Celine opened its first standalone store in Germany, in Munich, in 2017.

A look inside the salon of the French luxury house’s new Vienna store. – CELINE

The 150-square-metre luxury boutique in Vienna spans three storeys. It showcases the latest womenswear and menswear collections, beauty, fragrances, and Maison pieces. From the outside, the flagship impresses with a listed façade of sculpted marble, paired with large, dark-framed, floor-to-ceiling windows.

Inside, natural stone prevails, with materials such as Grand Antique marble combined with travertine. Basaltina flooring laid throughout features a French-inspired chevron pattern. The sense of luxury is heightened by ultra-clear mirrors- some finished in antique gold- neon lighting, and polished metal.

On the ground floor, womenswear is presented, beginning with accessories, leather goods, beauty products, and fragrances. This is followed by the ready-to-wear area.

A staircase with cantilevered steps, inspired by minimalism, leads to the first floor, where the menswear collections are presented. The scheme here is darker overall, with black-lacquered walls and a selection of timbers that contrast with the lighter woods in the other areas.

A look inside the luxury boutique.
A look inside the luxury boutique. – CELINE

An intimate salon on the second floor, accessible exclusively via a private lift, expands the store and includes an enlarged fitting room.

Throughout the store and its numerous lounge areas, the furnishings comprise a selection of vintage and contemporary pieces. As part of the ongoing Celine Art Project, a curated selection of artworks is on display with a stoneware composition by Anders Hald, a painting by Jasmine Gregory, and sculptures by Rosalind Tallmadge and Marcelo Silveira.
 

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