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Louis Vuitton: Welcome to the new refinement

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September 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton, the luxury travel marque par excellence, staged the first major influential show of this Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, wowing with a refined collection presented inside a royal apartment within the Louvre.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

And not just any flat — in fact, the grandiose summer apartment of Anne of Austria, a lavishly finished neoclassical space with views out to the Seine.

All magisterially redecorated, as Vuitton’s women’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière worked with set designer Marie-Anne Derville to create an apartment that riffed on French taste from the 18th century until today — from a salon to a lounge to a bathroom.

“I wanted the serenity that you feel in the comfort of your own home. Today, you can dress with sophistication at home. It’s not just about wearing jogging pants,” explained Ghesquière in a post-show interview.

And like the apartment, this Spring-Summer 2026 collection was highly eclectic: blending kicky fabric tops, tapestry details, carpet-fabric shoes, and brushed silk — an 18th-century French technique where it begins to look like animal skin.

Though Ghesquière didn’t directly reference Anne of Austria’s wardrobe, there was an air of contemporary courtier about the clothes — from leggings cut like britches, or shirts with aristocratic six-inch collars, to striking lace demoiselle gowns and a magnificent scarlet satin bouffant bubble coat.

All manner of off-the-shoulder togas added to the sense of the event, as did damask dhotis. Paired with short paisley tanks, all suggested an exotic dinner party that would be marvelous to attend.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

Adding to a sense of mystery, a major shout-out to the millinery — superb Doges’ miters or Pashas’ turbans. Being Ghesquière, the designer leavened many looks with futuristic sportswear: technical palazzo pants or high-tech sneakers.

Nicolas was clearly influenced by the colors of the queen’s apartment. The rose-checked marble floor was restored in the 1970s; below 17th- and 18th-century frescoes and Egyptian bas-reliefs. And even if he claimed not to be influenced by the wardrobe of Anne — the mother of Sun King Louis XIV — there was a hint of Rubens’ famed portrait of Anne in a diaphanous silk gown with a spiky collar.

“It’s a multicultural proposition,” joked the French designer, attired in his classic dressed-down style — worn black jeans and a pale blue jeans jacket.

Though often grand, the collection was never uptight. Far from it — with perfectly draped body-con gowns and superb tailoring made in soft knitwear.

Whatever else one can say about Ghesquière, he certainly has great imagination — and timing. In a season marked by the demise of quiet luxury and the renaissance of refinement, riffing on a queen’s apartment seemed smart.

Original and highly diverse — just like the set, which blended artist Robert Wilson; Georges Jacob, master cabinetmaker of the 18th century; 1930s Art Deco by Michel Dufet; ceramic sculptures by Pierre-Adrien Dalpayrat; and even furniture designed by Derville herself.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

Among which sat all the senior brass of LVMH, owner of Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury brand; a pack of influencers; and several proper movie stars — among them Jennifer Connelly and Emma Stone.

And a sense of empowerment. Like Anne. No slouch when it came to politics, Anne outmaneuvered her rivals to become the sole regent of Louis XIV when he became king aged just four. Then she determinedly suppressed the Fronde — the greatest revolt against the French monarchy prior to the Revolution — doing so with the help of Italian-born Cardinal Mazarin. Then again, LVMH’s patron knows a thing or two about hiring Italians. His CEO at Vuitton is Italian-born Pietro Beccari.

All told, even if Vuitton is the luxury brand synonymous with travel, and this was a collection devoted to home, the collection was still very much a fashionable voyage, with flights of fantasy that broke into new stylistic terrain.

The soundtrack gave the whole show a certain grandeur: Cate Blanchett slowly declaiming the words to David Byrne’s song “This Must Be the Place” from the band Talking Heads, though set to music composed by Tanguy Destable.

“Home — it’s where I want to be,” wrote Byrne, which doesn’t seem such a bad idea.

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Okkia, Le Béret Français, Aurora: spotlight on accessory brands at Who’s Next

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January 20, 2026

The Who’s Next trade show, held in Hall 7 of the Parc des Expositions (Paris XV) from January 17 to 19, put accessory brands centre stage. Eyewear, jewellery of every kind, bags, mittens, and headwear – buyers were spoilt for choice. Among these brands, a few caught the eye of FashionNetwork.com.

Italian Okkia and its affordable eyewear

Founded in 2016, this Italian brand specializes in affordable eyewear. – Okkia

Founded in 2016, Okkia is an Italian brand offering affordable eyewear, from prescription frames to sunglasses. It is exhibiting at Who’s Next for the first time, with ambitious international plans. Its attractive pricing — €25 for prescription glasses, €27 for sunglasses and €40 for both — helped it sell one million units in 2025. Already widely distributed across Europe, the brand is also present in the United States, several Latin American countries, Turkey and the Maldives. It now aims to establish itself in countries such as Australia, where it is not yet present, and to strengthen its global footprint. This year will see the launch of two new lines for Okkia, as well as a collaboration with Italian designer Seletti.

Lumielle Aurora 1896 umbrellas and Tokyo Hat caps

Lumielle Aurora 1896 holds umbrella licences for a number of brands, including Agnès b.
Lumielle Aurora 1896 holds umbrella licences for a number of brands, including Agnès b. – Lumielle Aurora 1896

Japanese premium umbrella brand Lumielle Aurora 1896 marked its second appearance at the show, having made its debut last September. The brand is seeking a foothold in European stores — a strategy only recently set in motion — but is, for now, hampered by its pricing. Made in Japan from textiles produced in-house in the Niigata region, these umbrellas, with wooden or bamboo handles, have so far found limited traction in Europe. Lumielle Aurora 1896 has, therefore, developed a more affordable line, presented at the show alongside parasols for hot weather. Aurora has also owned Tokyo Hat since 2007, a brand of caps and other headwear featured across several stands. With a more contemporary offer, Tokyo Hat hopes to win over retailers with a younger clientele and a taste for creative fashion.

The timeless Le Béret Français and Le Bonnet Français

Le Béret Français regularly benefits from French lifestyle trends
Le Béret Français regularly benefits from French lifestyle trends – Le Béret Français

Le Béret Français and its recently acquired subsidiary, Le Bonnet Français, were also in attendance this January. Le Béret Français, which holds the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) label, aims to maintain its positive growth trajectory, particularly buoyed in recent years by the Rugby World Cup in France and the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. With €1 million in annual sales, the company nevertheless faces strong competition from other brands, whose product quality is not always on a par with its own, made in Bayonne from French wool. Even so, Le Béret Français can boast sales to a wide range of partners, including department stores, milliners and even museums, whose end consumers are very diverse.

Who’s Next also boasted a broad line-up of exhibitors, including Naked Wolfe and its colourful shoes, Zen Collective and its Buddhist bracelets, and Hinterveld and its thick mohair scarves.

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Axel Arigato appoints former Adidas executive as chief executive

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January 20, 2026

A year-and-a-half after his fellow co-founder, Max Svärdh, stepped back, Albin Johansson is now doing the same at Axel Arigato, the label they founded together in 2014. In June 2024, the Swedish brand, renowned for its sneakers and chic streetwear, announced the appointment of Jens Werner as creative director, a role previously overseen by Max Svärdh.

Axel Arigato boutique – Axel Arigato

At that time, Johansson remained CEO of the brand, in which the investment firm Eurazeo took a majority stake in 2020. However, in early 2026, the company—which reportedly exceeded SEK 1 billion in turnover in 2024 (over €90 million)—appointed Frédéric Serrant to the role. He brings more than 16 years’ experience in international leadership roles across Asia and Latin America, gained at Adidas, the sports and lifestyle giant.

This expertise is expected to help Axel Arigato enter a new phase after years of expansion. The brand operates more than 15 standalone stores in major Scandinavian cities, as well as in key cities such as London, Paris, New York, Dubai and Berlin. It is also present in numerous department stores worldwide. However, this expansion has also eroded its margins, and the company has had to refine its strategy to limit operating losses.

“I am sincerely impressed by the remarkable work done so far to make Axel Arigato such a strong, distinctive and inspiring brand. It truly reflects the talent, passion and commitment of the teams, and I’m convinced that the brand’s potential is enormous. I look forward to joining the team, learning alongside them and writing the next chapters of the Axel Arigato story together,” commented Serrant, in a LinkedIn post.

Johansson will remain chairman of the board of directors.
 

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Kinji Teramoto brings RMFC and Big Yank to Paris for pop-up

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January 20, 2026

Against the prevailing mood in the United States he so loves, Kinji Teramoto refuses to turn inward. Hence, the man who refers to himself as the “archivenist” — a term he coined — and who has revived the iconic American labels Big Yank and Rocky Mountain Featherbed, is bringing them with him to 30 Galerie Vivienne, in Paris’s 2nd arrondissement. Open from January 20 to 28, the pop-up will primarily showcase RMFC and its down-filled garments, better suited to the current season, with Big Yank shirts taking a back seat.

Kinji Teramoto, passionate “archivenist” and reviver of heritage brands – 35IVE Summers

On arriving in Paris, Teramoto hopes to blend Tokyo’s gentle spirit with the cool elegance of the French capital. This trip from Japan follows the arrival in 2025 of the European branch of 35IVE Summers, the brands’ parent company, in Paris. Accordingly, the success of this pop-up store will determine whether the two labels secure a lasting presence on Parisian streets, a long-standing project for Teramoto and his teams.

A Paris outpost in the pipeline?

Paris represents a particular opportunity for the “archivenist”, not least because his partner at Anatomica, Pierre Fournier, is based there. The City of Light is also an ideal place to raise the profile of RMFC and Big Yank. The two American brands, founded in the late 1960s and in 1919, respectively, were acquired by 35IVE Summers in 2005 and 2012. Based on a series of pieces acquired by Teramoto, both labels have been relaunched with products that marry heritage and modern, Japan-based manufacturing. Should a permanent presence be established, 35IVE Summers would even look to produce locally the pieces sold in Europe, embracing a local production-and-distribution model.

Rocky Mountain Featherbed will take centre stage
Rocky Mountain Featherbed will take centre stage – Rocky Mountain Feathebed

All of this is underpinned by a highly unusual development cycle. “Garments made in one or two months are incomplete,” Teramoto explained. “We create patterns and produce samples at least three times, then personally try the finished items and wear them for at least six months to observe how they age. This process is our 18-month commitment,” he continued.

Passing on to future generations

The “archivenist”, who rejects the label of collector, believes that every vintage piece carries meaning, having endured through time.

“I only collect what I can truly bring back to life. […] My aim is for the next generation to wear these pieces and in turn pass them on to the next,” he added.

What’s more, RMFC and Big Yank pieces, which revisit designs several decades old, feed the vintage market and will once again be unearthed by new generations.

Big Yank was founded in 1919 by Reliance Company in Chicago
Big Yank was founded in 1919 by Reliance Company in Chicago – Big Yank

Teramoto’s wish to preserve the aesthetics of archival pieces springs from his passion for the labels he has brought back to life: “What these two brands created was truly iconic. What I felt at the time became my business, beyond mere commercial viability,” he confides. “At the time, I could never have imagined that the pieces I created from these archives would be embraced by the global market.”

RMFC and Big Yank have not only been reborn; they are thriving. Rocky Mountain Featherbed closes 2025 with significant growth in Europe and the Americas, with sales in Japan also on the rise.

Big Yank, meanwhile, is seeing its sales climb in Japan, according to Teramoto. In 2025, the brand appointed BerBer Jin’s Yutaka Fujihara as creative director, a move that “is currently attracting strong interest, at least in Japan.”

He is expected at the Paris pop-up store “to increase brand awareness in Europe and the Americas.”

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