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Louis Vuitton: Welcome to the new refinement

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September 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton, the luxury travel marque par excellence, staged the first major influential show of this Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, wowing with a refined collection presented inside a royal apartment within the Louvre.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

And not just any flat — in fact, the grandiose summer apartment of Anne of Austria, a lavishly finished neoclassical space with views out to the Seine.

All magisterially redecorated, as Vuitton’s women’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière worked with set designer Marie-Anne Derville to create an apartment that riffed on French taste from the 18th century until today — from a salon to a lounge to a bathroom.

“I wanted the serenity that you feel in the comfort of your own home. Today, you can dress with sophistication at home. It’s not just about wearing jogging pants,” explained Ghesquière in a post-show interview.

And like the apartment, this Spring-Summer 2026 collection was highly eclectic: blending kicky fabric tops, tapestry details, carpet-fabric shoes, and brushed silk — an 18th-century French technique where it begins to look like animal skin.

Though Ghesquière didn’t directly reference Anne of Austria’s wardrobe, there was an air of contemporary courtier about the clothes — from leggings cut like britches, or shirts with aristocratic six-inch collars, to striking lace demoiselle gowns and a magnificent scarlet satin bouffant bubble coat.

All manner of off-the-shoulder togas added to the sense of the event, as did damask dhotis. Paired with short paisley tanks, all suggested an exotic dinner party that would be marvelous to attend.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

Adding to a sense of mystery, a major shout-out to the millinery — superb Doges’ miters or Pashas’ turbans. Being Ghesquière, the designer leavened many looks with futuristic sportswear: technical palazzo pants or high-tech sneakers.

Nicolas was clearly influenced by the colors of the queen’s apartment. The rose-checked marble floor was restored in the 1970s; below 17th- and 18th-century frescoes and Egyptian bas-reliefs. And even if he claimed not to be influenced by the wardrobe of Anne — the mother of Sun King Louis XIV — there was a hint of Rubens’ famed portrait of Anne in a diaphanous silk gown with a spiky collar.

“It’s a multicultural proposition,” joked the French designer, attired in his classic dressed-down style — worn black jeans and a pale blue jeans jacket.

Though often grand, the collection was never uptight. Far from it — with perfectly draped body-con gowns and superb tailoring made in soft knitwear.

Whatever else one can say about Ghesquière, he certainly has great imagination — and timing. In a season marked by the demise of quiet luxury and the renaissance of refinement, riffing on a queen’s apartment seemed smart.

Original and highly diverse — just like the set, which blended artist Robert Wilson; Georges Jacob, master cabinetmaker of the 18th century; 1930s Art Deco by Michel Dufet; ceramic sculptures by Pierre-Adrien Dalpayrat; and even furniture designed by Derville herself.

Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com

Among which sat all the senior brass of LVMH, owner of Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury brand; a pack of influencers; and several proper movie stars — among them Jennifer Connelly and Emma Stone.

And a sense of empowerment. Like Anne. No slouch when it came to politics, Anne outmaneuvered her rivals to become the sole regent of Louis XIV when he became king aged just four. Then she determinedly suppressed the Fronde — the greatest revolt against the French monarchy prior to the Revolution — doing so with the help of Italian-born Cardinal Mazarin. Then again, LVMH’s patron knows a thing or two about hiring Italians. His CEO at Vuitton is Italian-born Pietro Beccari.

All told, even if Vuitton is the luxury brand synonymous with travel, and this was a collection devoted to home, the collection was still very much a fashionable voyage, with flights of fantasy that broke into new stylistic terrain.

The soundtrack gave the whole show a certain grandeur: Cate Blanchett slowly declaiming the words to David Byrne’s song “This Must Be the Place” from the band Talking Heads, though set to music composed by Tanguy Destable.

“Home — it’s where I want to be,” wrote Byrne, which doesn’t seem such a bad idea.

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Pop Closet: second-hand fashion store relocates to Pátio Siza Vieira in Lisbon, Portugal

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November 14, 2025

Pop Closet, a second-hand clothing store opened eight years ago by António Branco, remains in Lisbon’s Colina do Chiado, but has now moved from Calçada do Sacramento, next to The Feeting Room, to Pátio Siza Vieira (further down), at 19 Rua Garrett (Shop A), next to Sienna. The new shop also features a more refined edit, focusing on luxury pieces from brands such as Acne Studios, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Chanel, Celine, Comme des Garçons, Dior, Fendi, Gaultier, Gucci, Hermès, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Margiela, Mugler, Off-White, Prada, Raf Simons, Saint Laurent, Valentino, and Vivienne Westwood among others. Prices range from €30 to €1,500.

Photo: Cátia Castel-Branco – @popclosetofficial / Instagram

Thanks to the extensive CV of its founder, who also works as a buyer, stylist, and fashion editor, particularly in the US and Brazil, Pop Closet has become a point of reference, despite the modest premises where it made its debut in the Portuguese capital.

The façade and interiors are defined by industrial finishes, in contrast to the century-old structural stone — salvaged from the fire that ravaged Chiado in 1988, starting at Armazéns Grandella and spreading through the area, destroying 18 historic buildings — and the restored wooden furniture that showcases second-hand clothing, eyewear, accessories, and footwear, as well as art and décor pieces.

@popclosetofficial / Instagram

The new Pop Closet also includes a space dedicated to art displayed on the walls, such as photographs by Cátia Castel-Branco, which are also for sale and will be replaced by works from other artists to foster a sense of dynamism and a changing atmosphere. There are even second-hand design pieces for the home — some recycled or part of collections from renowned brands such as Kartell.

“I want to have good items that anyone who comes in here feels they can wear, that aren’t specific to one type of customer. Above all, quality, beautiful and contemporary pieces,” António Branco told Time Out. He sources pieces in northern Europe or northern Portugal, from factories that offload leftover stock, in addition to those consigned by clients or bought directly by the shop, thus ensuring turnover.

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Due diligence law: the right and far right unite to dismantle it in the European Parliament

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November 14, 2025

The right and the far right joined forces in the European Parliament on Thursday to unpick a law on major corporations’ social and environmental “due diligence” — a bombshell in Brussels.

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By 382 votes to 249, MEPs approved scaling back the text’s ambitions, limiting the number of companies covered, and removing some obligations. A weakened version of the text had been rejected by MEPs on October 22.

In a break with the traditional “pro-European” majority, an ad hoc alliance between the right (the EPP) and the far right sparked an outcry among the other groups.

The EPP “has torpedoed any moderate compromise,” lamented Social Democrat René Repasi. The vote serves as a warning to the pro-European camp, just as Parliament begins to tackle a series of measures to “simplify” business life.

The far right savoured a “great victory” on Thursday. “Another majority is possible” and “this is just the beginning”, declared the Patriots group, chaired by Jordan Bardella.

Adopted only eighteen months ago, this due diligence law is bearing the brunt of the European Union’s pro-business turn, buffeted by competition from China and tariffs in the US.

Its implementation had already been postponed by a year, from 2027 to 2028. But Brussels wants to go even further to lighten the administrative burden on companies across the continent.

Backed by penalties, the law adopted in 2024 required companies with over 1,000 employees to prevent and remedy human rights violations (child labour, forced labour, safety, etc.) and environmental damage throughout their value chains, including among their suppliers worldwide.

On Thursday, in line with the Member States, the European Parliament raised the thresholds for companies covered to more than 5,000 employees and over €1.5 billion in annual turnover.

Above all, MEPs scrapped the European civil liability regime, which served to harmonise companies’ obligations and their liability before the courts in the event of breaches.

Instead, parliamentarians opted to leave it to national legislation. They also abandoned the climate transition plans that companies were supposed to provide. A move that France, which has long boasted of having created the first national due diligence law, has pushed hard for since the beginning of the year, including through its president, Emmanuel Macron.

“Asphyxiation”

The law is now “completely empty”, laments centrist Pascal Canfin. This vote comes “during COP30” in Brazil and “represents a considerable setback for private-sector climate action”, he believes.

On the right, MEP François-Xavier Bellamy argues, by contrast, that this “simplification” will “save our businesses from regulatory asphyxiation”.

Following this vote, negotiations will begin with the Member States, with a view to the final adoption of the revised law.

“It is still possible to correct course”, says Jurei Yada of the E3G think tank, but the vote shows that “the far right is gaining influence” and that the pro-European majority is “crumbling”.

Environmental organisations, which had previously expressed concern about the future of the due diligence project, are also taking aim at the “industrial lobbies” opposed to this law.

The absence of European civil liability risks introducing “competition between the 27 Member States to see who has the most lax regime to try to attract companies”, warns Swann Bommier of the NGO Bloom.

In the name of fighting bureaucracy, German Chancellor Friedrich Merz and French President Emmanuel Macron had called for the law to be scrapped altogether.

But even if it is only slashed, the pill is hard to swallow for some of the parliamentarians who had celebrated its “historic” adoption in April 2024 after several years of tug-of-war within the European institutions themselves.

There was no shortage of superlatives at the time, including among Macronists, such as the current president of the centrist Renew group, Valérie Hayer.

However, the political balance has shifted in the chamber since the June 2024 elections, marked by the strengthening of the right and the breakthrough of the far right, which wants to roll back the Green Deal, the package of environmental measures adopted during the previous term.

FashionNetwork.com with AFP.

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Italy weighs one-off levy to bring private gold holdings into formal economy

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November 14, 2025

Italy is considering a one-off levy for households to declare gold held off the books, an amendment to the 2026 budget law showed, in a move that could potentially yield the state more than 2 billion euros ($2.3 billion).

Gold jewels are seen in a jewellery shop in downtown Rome, Italy, December 11, 2017 – REUTERS/Max Rossi

The proposal would allow individuals to pay a 12.5% tax to certify the market value of bullion, gold jewellery, and collectible coins for which purchase records are missing, the same rate as on government bonds. The certification has to be done by June 2026.

Under current rules, the lack of proof of purchase can lead to a 26% tax on the entire sale value, rather than just the actual capital gain.
This has discouraged people from selling their inherited gold on the official market and pushed some transactions into informal or undeclared channels, limiting market liquidity and tax revenues, lawmakers from the co-ruling League and Forza Italia party said.

Some estimates put privately held gold in Italy at 4,500–5,000 metric tons, worth roughly 500 billion euros at current prices.
Italy’s network of “Compro Oro” shops — businesses that buy and sell gold — has seen a sharp rise in activity as prices hit record highs. Sales of used gold jumped by around 25% in 2025, with more than 1.2 million transactions per month, driven by households cashing in old jewellery and coins, according to Metropolitan Magazine, an Italian publication.

Under the proposed measure, taxpayers opting in would declare their holdings at market value, pay the substitute tax in one or three annual instalments, and obtain a stepped-up fiscal value basis for future sales. The process would be overseen by authorised intermediaries and advisers, with strict anti–money-laundering checks.

Supporters say the measure could generate significant one-off revenues for the Treasury, while improving transparency in a market long characterised by opaque holdings and informal family transfers. Based on an assumption that 10% of privately held investment gold is certified, the draft estimates additional revenue of up to 2.08 billion euros.

The proposal also seeks to encourage the “legal circulation” of gold by removing what stakeholders see as a punitive regime for individuals unable to document purchases made years—or generations—ago. The amendment still needs to clear parliamentary scrutiny and government vetting.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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