Louis Vuitton, the luxury travel marque par excellence, staged the first major influential show of this Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, wowing with a refined collection presented inside a royal apartment within the Louvre.
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com
And not just any flat — in fact, the grandiose summer apartment of Anne of Austria, a lavishly finished neoclassical space with views out to the Seine.
All magisterially redecorated, as Vuitton’s women’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière worked with set designer Marie-Anne Derville to create an apartment that riffed on French taste from the 18th century until today — from a salon to a lounge to a bathroom.
“I wanted the serenity that you feel in the comfort of your own home. Today, you can dress with sophistication at home. It’s not just about wearing jogging pants,” explained Ghesquière in a post-show interview.
And like the apartment, this Spring-Summer 2026 collection was highly eclectic: blending kicky fabric tops, tapestry details, carpet-fabric shoes, and brushed silk — an 18th-century French technique where it begins to look like animal skin.
Though Ghesquière didn’t directly reference Anne of Austria’s wardrobe, there was an air of contemporary courtier about the clothes — from leggings cut like britches, or shirts with aristocratic six-inch collars, to striking lace demoiselle gowns and a magnificent scarlet satin bouffant bubble coat.
All manner of off-the-shoulder togas added to the sense of the event, as did damask dhotis. Paired with short paisley tanks, all suggested an exotic dinner party that would be marvelous to attend.
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com
Adding to a sense of mystery, a major shout-out to the millinery — superb Doges’ miters or Pashas’ turbans. Being Ghesquière, the designer leavened many looks with futuristic sportswear: technical palazzo pants or high-tech sneakers.
Nicolas was clearly influenced by the colors of the queen’s apartment. The rose-checked marble floor was restored in the 1970s; below 17th- and 18th-century frescoes and Egyptian bas-reliefs. And even if he claimed not to be influenced by the wardrobe of Anne — the mother of Sun King Louis XIV — there was a hint of Rubens’ famed portrait of Anne in a diaphanous silk gown with a spiky collar.
“It’s a multicultural proposition,” joked the French designer, attired in his classic dressed-down style — worn black jeans and a pale blue jeans jacket.
Though often grand, the collection was never uptight. Far from it — with perfectly draped body-con gowns and superb tailoring made in soft knitwear.
Whatever else one can say about Ghesquière, he certainly has great imagination — and timing. In a season marked by the demise of quiet luxury and the renaissance of refinement, riffing on a queen’s apartment seemed smart.
Original and highly diverse — just like the set, which blended artist Robert Wilson; Georges Jacob, master cabinetmaker of the 18th century; 1930s Art Deco by Michel Dufet; ceramic sculptures by Pierre-Adrien Dalpayrat; and even furniture designed by Derville herself.
Louis Vuitton – Spring-Summer 2026 – Paris Fashion Week – France – Paris – FashionNetwork.com
Among which sat all the senior brass of LVMH, owner of Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury brand; a pack of influencers; and several proper movie stars — among them Jennifer Connelly and Emma Stone.
And a sense of empowerment. Like Anne. No slouch when it came to politics, Anne outmaneuvered her rivals to become the sole regent of Louis XIV when he became king aged just four. Then she determinedly suppressed the Fronde — the greatest revolt against the French monarchy prior to the Revolution — doing so with the help of Italian-born Cardinal Mazarin. Then again, LVMH’s patron knows a thing or two about hiring Italians. His CEO at Vuitton is Italian-born Pietro Beccari.
All told, even if Vuitton is the luxury brand synonymous with travel, and this was a collection devoted to home, the collection was still very much a fashionable voyage, with flights of fantasy that broke into new stylistic terrain.
The soundtrack gave the whole show a certain grandeur: Cate Blanchett slowly declaiming the words to David Byrne’s song “This Must Be the Place” from the band Talking Heads, though set to music composed by Tanguy Destable.
“Home — it’s where I want to be,” wrote Byrne, which doesn’t seem such a bad idea.
With fashion weeks having kicked off in earnest this month, the world’s top buyers are gathering their thoughts about what they expect affluent shoppers to snap up come AW26 collections arriving in-store and Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at London’s Harrods, is among them.
Just back from the Milan menswear shows, he highlighted the importance of timeless fashion.
“Milan menswear has always lived between two opposing forces: Fashion with a capital ‘F’, and quiet luxury rooted in sartorial tradition and timelessness,” he explained.
“This season, more than ever, the balance of the schedule leaned firmly towards the latter. The result was a Milan season defined by quality, cut, cloth and craft. There was a palpable sense that product integrity and the final customer were front and centre. Less noise, fewer theatrics—but a stronger, more coherent message around what modern luxury menswear looks like today: thoughtful, considered, and built to last.”
He hailed big names including Polo’s Purple Label, Zegna, Prada, Brioni and Dunhill both for the impact of the shows or presentations and the looks they included.
“This season, the strongest ‘shows’ were the ones that felt complete: a clear point of view, real product conviction, and a wardrobe that moves the customer forward,” he said. “Ralph Lauren’s return to Milan brought scale and theatre, but crucially it was backed by wearable, elevated classics that translate beautifully across Polo through Purple Label.
“Zegna delivered that modern luxury sweet spot—quiet confidence, investment dressing, and a proposition built on longevity and wardrobe building rather than novelty.
“And Prada was Prada in the best way: intellectually sharp, slightly disruptive, and refreshingly anti-‘power uniform’—a collection that challenged the idea of what contemporary menswear authority looks like.
Longland thought the best presentation was Brioni “because it understood the moment: craftsmanship, ease, and a sense of journey—luxury that doesn’t shout, it lasts”.
But he also liked Dunhill, calling it “a masterclass in mood and restraint—an incredibly precise take on British elegance, with the kind of tonal sophistication that customers immediately understand”.
As for the season’s top trends so far. In tailoring, he noted “a confident split: either slouchy, relaxed tailoring (softened shoulders, easier proportions), or clean, slim, sharply tailored lines for the customer who wants refinement without volume. Prada and the broader conversation around modern tailoring really underlined this shift”.
He also thought co-ords and tonal dressing were significant with “head-to-toe dressing in shades of one colour now a key styling language—particularly in neutrals and ‘quiet’ hues. It reads modern, premium, and effortless”.
Colour-wise, Longland called out the colours of nature: greens, greys, browns—earthy, mineral, and outdoors-referenced tones “that feel calm, grounded, and timeless”.
And as for materials, leather nd suede were crucial and could be found “everywhere in a more refined register—often softer, more tactile, and less overtly aggressive. It’s about texture, depth and longevity rather than statement”.
On the key item front, Longland’s backing bomber jackets that have “continued to evolve—less ‘street’, more luxury wardrobe essential: cleaner finishes, elevated fabrics, and styling that works over tailoring as easily as with casual trousers”.
And he sees a jacket or coat in “beautifully supple suede, ideally in chocolate brown or charcoal” as a “must-have” for the season. Why? “It perfectly encapsulates the season’s mood—luxurious yet understated, timeless yet modern, and endlessly versatile within a contemporary wardrobe”.
The Who’s Next trade show, held in Hall 7 of the Parc des Expositions (Paris XV) from January 17 to 19, put accessory brands centre stage. Eyewear, jewellery of every kind, bags, mittens, and headwear – buyers were spoilt for choice. Among these brands, a few caught the eye of FashionNetwork.com.
Italian Okkia and its affordable eyewear
Founded in 2016, this Italian brand specializes in affordable eyewear. – Okkia
Founded in 2016, Okkia is an Italian brand offering affordable eyewear, from prescription frames to sunglasses. It is exhibiting at Who’s Next for the first time, with ambitious international plans. Its attractive pricing — €25 for prescription glasses, €27 for sunglasses and €40 for both — helped it sell one million units in 2025. Already widely distributed across Europe, the brand is also present in the United States, several Latin American countries, Turkey and the Maldives. It now aims to establish itself in countries such as Australia, where it is not yet present, and to strengthen its global footprint. This year will see the launch of two new lines for Okkia, as well as a collaboration with Italian designer Seletti.
Lumielle Aurora 1896 holds umbrella licences for a number of brands, including Agnès b. – Lumielle Aurora 1896
Japanese premium umbrella brand Lumielle Aurora 1896 marked its second appearance at the show, having made its debut last September. The brand is seeking a foothold in European stores — a strategy only recently set in motion — but is, for now, hampered by its pricing. Made in Japan from textiles produced in-house in the Niigata region, these umbrellas, with wooden or bamboo handles, have so far found limited traction in Europe. Lumielle Aurora 1896 has, therefore, developed a more affordable line, presented at the show alongside parasols for hot weather. Aurora has also owned Tokyo Hat since 2007, a brand of caps and other headwear featured across several stands. With a more contemporary offer, Tokyo Hat hopes to win over retailers with a younger clientele and a taste for creative fashion.
The timeless Le Béret Français and Le Bonnet Français
Le Béret Français regularly benefits from French lifestyle trends – Le Béret Français
Le Béret Français and its recently acquired subsidiary, Le Bonnet Français, were also in attendance this January. Le Béret Français, which holds the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) label, aims to maintain its positive growth trajectory, particularly buoyed in recent years by the Rugby World Cup in France and the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. With €1 million in annual sales, the company nevertheless faces strong competition from other brands, whose product quality is not always on a par with its own, made in Bayonne from French wool. Even so, Le Béret Français can boast sales to a wide range of partners, including department stores, milliners and even museums, whose end consumers are very diverse.
Who’s Next also boasted a broad line-up of exhibitors, including Naked Wolfe and its colourful shoes, Zen Collective and its Buddhist bracelets, and Hinterveld and its thick mohair scarves.
A year-and-a-half after his fellow co-founder, Max Svärdh, stepped back, Albin Johansson is now doing the same at Axel Arigato, the label they founded together in 2014. In June 2024, the Swedish brand, renowned for its sneakers and chic streetwear, announced the appointment of Jens Werner as creative director, a role previously overseen by Max Svärdh.
Axel Arigato boutique – Axel Arigato
At that time, Johansson remained CEO of the brand, in which the investment firm Eurazeo took a majority stake in 2020. However, in early 2026, the company—which reportedly exceeded SEK 1 billion in turnover in 2024 (over €90 million)—appointed Frédéric Serrant to the role. He brings more than 16 years’ experience in international leadership roles across Asia and Latin America, gained at Adidas, the sports and lifestyle giant.
This expertise is expected to help Axel Arigato enter a new phase after years of expansion. The brand operates more than 15 standalone stores in major Scandinavian cities, as well as in key cities such as London, Paris, New York, Dubai and Berlin. It is also present in numerous department stores worldwide. However, this expansion has also eroded its margins, and the company has had to refine its strategy to limit operating losses.
“I am sincerely impressed by the remarkable work done so far to make Axel Arigato such a strong, distinctive and inspiring brand. It truly reflects the talent, passion and commitment of the teams, and I’m convinced that the brand’s potential is enormous. I look forward to joining the team, learning alongside them and writing the next chapters of the Axel Arigato story together,” commented Serrant, in a LinkedIn post.
Johansson will remain chairman of the board of directors.
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