In a major surprise, Francesca Amfitheatrof, the acclaimed jewelry designer of Louis Vuitton, has quit the Paris-based luxury house—just six months after Amfitheatrof herself unveiled a new building in central Paris destined to be Louis Vuitton’s jewelry global headquarters.
Jewelry Designer Francesca Amfitheatrof exits Louis Vuitton – Photo: Louis Vuitton
“I am incredibly grateful to have been given the opportunity to create the jewelry and high jewelry collections for Louis Vuitton. After seven wonderful and intense years, I am so proud of these collections and the legacy I leave behind as I embark on exciting new endeavors, which I will be announcing soon,” Amfitheatrof said in a brief statement.
Vuitton declined to comment on the departure of Amfitheatrof, who is very much a superstar designer in the world of fine jewelry. Her tenure at Vuitton has been a huge critical success, like her most recent collection, Damier, inspired by the brand’s famed monogram print. The collection includes a line of checkerboard bracelets and rings, designed in slimline forms with raised centers—surprisingly light and almost snake-like around the wrist.
“We developed one Damier ring a year ago, and people went crazy for it, so I thought, let’s do a whole collection. Sometimes the wisest decisions are right in front of your eyes,” chuckled Amfitheatrof at its launch in the new HQ.
Le Damier – Louis Vuitton
Last year, while in high jewelry, she presented an exceptional new collection entitled “Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds,” inspired by Louis Vuitton’s spirit of travel and the mechanization of railways through interlaced V-shaped links. The collection mirrors the marvels of the Industrial Revolution in a symphony of platinum and yellow gold, diamonds, and golden yellow sapphires.
Louis Vuitton’s “Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds” high jewelry collection – Louis Vuitton
Amfitheatrof joined Vuitton in April 2018, an appointment that underlined how much Vuitton saw jewelry and watches as major growth areas for the luxury marque. Vuitton had begun inviting scores of major well-heeled clients to exotic locations like Hawaii and Courchevel in the Alps for several days of private viewing and shopping at jewelry galas.
At the time, then CEO Michael Burke noted that Vuitton had amassed a treasure trove of 200 million euros worth of precious stones. Upon her arrival, Vuitton devoted increasing amounts of retail space to her designs in its huge flagship in Place Vendôme, the most important retail center of luxury jewelry on the planet.
Very much a citizen of the world, Francesca Amfitheatrof was born in Tokyo and studied at three London institutions—Central Saint Martins, Chelsea College of Arts, and the Royal College of Art—yet speaks English with a slight Italian accent. Amfitheatrof’s first silverware collection was presented by Jay Jopling of London’s White Cube gallery in 1993. Her designs have been sold by Colette, Browns of London, Luisa Via Roma in Florence, Jeffreys in New York, and Joyce Hong Kong.
Her most important position prior to Vuitton was leading the jewelry design team at Tiffany, where, in 2013, she became the first woman to hold that position. Amfitheatrof quit that job in January 2018 when Tiffany announced that Reed Krakoff had been named the brand’s artistic director.
Previously, she had been a senior jewelry designer for UK royal jeweler Asprey & Garrard and designed for Chanel, Balenciaga, Fendi, and Marni. She also spent three years as curator of the Gucci Museo in Florence.
While at Tiffany, she developed a partnership with fashion-forward retailer Dover Street Market and featured Lady Gaga in the brand’s advertising campaigns, seen in a Super Bowl commercial.
During her time at Vuitton, Amfitheatrof continued to design for other brands. Earlier this month, her Instagram account featured a post of A$AP Rocky “wearing Psyche and Cupid, my first necklace for Maison Codognato,” the legendary Venetian jewelry brand.
With Christmas, Valentine’s, Mother’s Day and Eid al-Fitr now in (or almost in) the rearview mirror, the next big spending season in the UK is Easter and GlobalData believes Britain will spend £2.3 billion on celebrating it this year.
Photo: Pexels
That’s based on its research that shows over 40% of UK Easter shoppers have reported that they intend to spend more this year. And with Easter falling on 20 April, three weeks later than last year, retailers should prepare for more outdoor celebrations than last year, even though it looks like the current spell of sunny weather might not last into the four-day weekend.
The analytics company said shoppers are planning to spend an average of £124.75, which is £12.35 more than last year. Food & drink and gifting are expected to dominate spending, accounting for over 70% of shoppers’ Easter budgets.
Unfortunately, it didn’t break down its prediction for gifting spend. But it said that purchases of luxury Easter eggs will boost gifting sales, with 46% of Easter gifting shoppers planning to buy these items this year.
Aliyah Siddika, associate retail analyst at at GlobalData, said the appeal of luxury Easter eggs really does seem to be growing and called out M&S as one retailer making the most of them.
And of course, one key point to remember is that such items tend to be bought in-store more than online and getting consumers into shops is the battle almost won when it comes to getting them to look at other products on offer.
It may be part of the giant Capri Holdings that reports results quarterly but we rarely hear about Michael Kors’ specific UK performance so the filing of its accounts for the year to March 2024 is certainly illuminating.
Turnover dropped to £70.85 million from £77.17 million and gross profit fell to £23 million from £28.6 million. Operating profit narrowed sharply to £4.96 million from £31.6 million but profit before tax increased to £61.18 million from £40.45 million. And net profit for the financial year rose to £66 million from £39.7 million.
Of course, this doesn’t represent the full picture for the brand in the UK. The business operates as a limited risk distributor for the parent brand on behalf of the MK group under the intercompany distribution agreement with Michael Kors (Switzerland) GmbH. As such, the company is primarily focused on sales and marketing activities while the commercial risks are borne by the Swiss company. Operating expenses are reimbursed based on a mark-up percentage indexed to net sales. Funding and liquidity needed for operating cost is also provided by the Swiss entity.
The UK firm’s drop in revenue came as the cost of living crisis impacted consumer enthusiasm for spending. The company also focused on store consolidation. It planned the shuttering of its concession in London’s Harvey Nichols as well as shops in Newcastle, Milton Keynes and Manchester to take place in the current financial year, as well as closing its Regent Street pop-up while waiting for its relocation to new nearby premises. Its new flagship is planned to open this summer.
As a result, it expects sales for the current year (FY25) to fall by 20%. Additionally, prices are expected to come down in the foreseeable future “in order to better meet consumers’ demand and counter competitors’ strategies on the market”.
The company said that at the same time as it’s consolidating its retail network it has been expanding its e-commerce business and both of these activities will continue in the future with a focus on driving profitability.
The business continues to be a profitable one in Britain even though the company expects consumer spending to carry on being impacted by general macro economic conditions.
The results came several months after fellow Capri holdings business Versace UK had filed its figures for the same period and it too saw turnover falling, in this case from £23.8 million to £19.2 million. Its profit before tax narrowed to just under £113,000 from almost £315,000 although the fall in net profit was smaller. The figure dropped to £382,397 from £398,777.
Rixo’s accounts for the year to last June have just been filed and they show an interruption to the buoyant sales performance it had seen in the previous financial year.
Rixo
For 2023/24, revenue dipped to £18.7 million from £19 million in what the company said was an “uncertain market with subdued consumer spending in a period of difficult trading conditions”.
In the 2022/23 year, the retailer had seen sales growth almost in double digits. Admittedly, it was the first full year without a Covid impact but a sales rise of 9.1% was still impressive.
Gross profit this time dropped to £13.8 million from £14 million and operating profit was down to just over £303,000 from £2.3 million a year earlier. Profit before tax also dropped sharply to £391,000 from £2.3 million and net income for the year was just £251,000, down from £1.8 million.
The company’s administrative expenses also increased from £9.2 million in the previous financial year to £11.2 million this time.
But the fact that profit fell and its admin expenses jumped sharply is a reflection of the company’s investment in future growth. In the year, it said it continued to build brand awareness by investment in digital and brand marketing alongside opening stores. And that’s what drove the short-term reduction in its profits.
Rixo, which celebrates his 10th anniversary this year has built a strong vintage-inspired contemporary women’s world business selling through both wholesale and its own retail stores plus its webstore.
The company, which recently entered homewares, said it has extended the lease on its Marylebone High Street Store but took the decision to close it temporarily to undertake an extensive refurbishment with the goal of enhancing the in-store experience for its customers. That’s an important location and the closure would also have acted as a sales suppressor.
It’s also continuing to focus on its business beyond those who can get to its London stores and that includes investing in its online platform and in wholesale. It has set up subsidiaries in the US and in Ireland to open new stores and develop the wholesale operations further. During the year a store was opened in New York as part of this investment plan and only last month it signed a lease for a unit in Ireland’s Kildare Village.
Profits at the business had fallen in the 202/23 year too — despite the strong sales jump — and for the same reason as this time with the company investing heavily in the growth that should set it up for stronger profits several years down the line. Those investments had included opening stores on London’s King’s Road in Chelsea and on Carnaby Street in the West End.