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Lineapelle’s eighth Designers Edition unites 17 creatives in Milan

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 10, 2025

Lineapelle is gearing up for its 106th edition, which will take place from September 23 to 25 at the Fiera Milano Rho exhibition spaces, featuring 1,150 exhibitors from 37 countries. Meanwhile, the show presented today in Milan the eighth edition of its Designers Edition project, which aims to promote the image and excellence of Italian leather through the collections of creatives from around the world.

From left, Daniele Amato, Umberta Gnutti Beretta, Fulvia Bacchi, Marco Rambaldi – FNW/LG

From September 23 to 29, in conjunction with Women’s Fashion Week, the event will support 17 designers and brands, who will bring fashion shows, installations, and artistic contaminations to life. For this edition, the event moves the fashion shows from the Rho exhibition center to the heart of Milan, in Piazza Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, next to Spazio Lineapelle. The nine fashion shows, organized inside a tensile-structure greenhouse called the “Leather Fashion Hub,” will feature 1972 Desa, Agg Anton Giulio Grande, Alberto Zambelli, Chronos Corps, Leonardovalentini | Laboratorio Riciclo Pelle, Lorenzo Seghezzi, Maragno, Marco Rambaldi, and Mastewal. Meanwhile, Spazio Lineapelle will host presentations by the brands Absent Findings, Amato Daniele, Biagini, Dienèe, DOYS, Dúběn, PabePabe, and TVL | TheVerticaline.

“It is very important for us to support young creatives. We have been doing this since 1984, and in a more structured manner since 2020, with the opening of our dedicated space and the “About Leather” exhibition. Since its inception, the Designers Edition project has hosted over 50 fashion shows and presentations, attracting more than 9,000 guests. We also take the creativity of young Italian designers abroad, with our events in London, New York, Tokyo, and China,” explained Fulvia Bacchi, Lineapelle CEO and general manager of UNIC – Italian Tanneries. “In addition, we support both students and managers in the industry with leather training courses: between 2024 and 2025 we held 270, with the participation of more than 7,000 people. We collaborate with 75 institutes in Italy and 30 abroad, and we are in the process of forming agreements with several universities in Japan and Korea. Soon we will open a Lineapelle Space in Korea, a kind of ‘materials library’ for students.”

UNIC – Italian Tanneries and Lineapelle also collaborate with numerous organizations, including Camera Moda Fashion Trust. Its co-founder and co-CEO, Umberta Gnutti Beretta, who spoke at the conference, explained, “In addition to an annual donation, Lineapelle has decided to support the young people followed by the Fashion Trust also with training courses, providing them with the materials to work on and helping them economically in producing their creations. We share a belief: that young people are truly the engine and hope of the industry.”

Additionally, Lineapelle has established the LP Fashion Studio space at its headquarters, located at Via Brisa 3 in Milan. The space constantly hosts hundreds of students—both Italian and international—and organizes lessons and visits for academies, fashion schools, professional training institutes, and delegations (both domestic and foreign). LP Fashion Studio offers, with its 20,000 samples including leathers and accessories, an international overview of past and future trends, representing a unique resource in the world for all designers and researchers in the leather sector.

“A key message we want to convey with all these initiatives is that leather, unlike what the uninitiated think, is a sustainable material, as it is derived from slaughterhouse waste that would otherwise have to be disposed of. It is also sustainable because it lasts a long time,” Bacchi concludes. “Italian tanneries are recognized for the excellence of their products, which meet all the circularity and sustainability requirements demanded by designer labels, who are in fact buying our tanneries to ensure the best. Italy accounts for 70 percent of Europe’s leather production and 25 percent of the world’s leather production. By promoting the creation of leather clothing and accessories, we are promoting Made in Italy and our country’s economy.”

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Birks sales surge on European acquisition, strong retail performance

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December 8, 2025

Birks announced on Friday a 16.2% uptick in half-year sales to $93.1 million, on the back of the Canadian jeweller’s acquisition of European Boutique, and a strong retail performance.

Birks

The Montreal-based company also logged an increase in third-party branded timepieces across multiple brands for the 26 weeks ending September 27, in addition to gains in sales of Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry.

Meanwhile, comparable store sales rose 6.3%, attributable to strong sales in all product categories, particularly in third-party branded timepieces, but also in Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry, the company added.

In light of the strong sales performance, Birks narrowed its earnings loss during the six months to an operating loss of $0.2 million, compared to a reported operating loss of $0.3 million in the prior-year period.

“Our net sales, gross profit and comparable store sales for the first half of Fiscal 2026 are higher than the corresponding period in Fiscal 2025 due in part to the acquisition of the European business but also due to our strong retail performance, which speaks to the strength of our product offerings, both in terms of our Birks branded products and our third-party branded watches and jewelry,” said Niccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board and interim CEO.

“I would like to thank our teams for their dedication and hard work. The growth achieved in the first half of Fiscal 2026 is a testament of our commitment to our customers and I am grateful for the unwavering efforts of all our employees which contributed to these results and the successful integration of the European stores.”

In July, Birks acquired the luxury watch and jewellery business of European Boutique from its founders, the Sutkiewicz family, for a purchase price of $9 million.

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Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil

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December 7, 2025

NYC-based footwear brand Koio is relaunching The Primo, the high-top sneaker that debuted the brand in 2015, in a limited-edition collaboration with leatherworker and YouTube creator Rose Anvil for its tenth anniversary.

Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil. – Koio

The updated Primo maintains Koio’s original Italian build standards, with internal upgrades including a full leather Strobel board, leather toe cap and counter, and a gum outsole. The upper is crafted from vegetable-tanned, untreated Vachetta calf leather sourced from Italian tannery Conceria Annarita, allowing the sneaker to naturally darken and develop a unique patina with wear.

“Reintroducing the Primo for our ten-year anniversary is incredibly meaningful,” said Johannes Quodt, co-founder of Koio. “It was the shoe that launched the brand, so bringing it back with Rose Anvil’s technical rigor felt like the right way to honor its legacy. The Vachetta leather will age beautifully, making this one of the most personal and character-rich versions we’ve ever created.”

The Primo first debuted in February 2015 at Koio’s Bowery pop-up, created by the founders as their ideal high-top sneaker. The silhouette remained a core style for five years before the brand shifted focus as its range expanded. Koio continued to receive requests from collectors and longtime customers to bring back the original design, prompting the reissue as part of the brand’s tenth-anniversary celebrations.

“The Primo was already a well-built sneaker, but replacing every internal synthetic component with leather significantly elevates the craftsmanship,” said Weston Kay, Rose Anvil. “Using untreated Vachetta leather means the shoe doesn’t just look good out of the box but it continues to improve over time.”

Koio’s work with Rose Anvil follows the success of their first collaboration—the Koio x Rose Anvil Capri Triple White—which sold out in less than 24 hours.

The limited-edition Primo is priced at $325 and is now available exclusively online.

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Victoria’s Secret raises full-year outlook on strong Q3

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December 7, 2025

Victoria’s Secret & Co. on Friday reported better-than-expected sales in the third quarter, prompting the U.S. lingerie giant to raise its full year outlook.

Victoria’s Secret raises full-year outlook on strong Q3. – Victoria’s Secret

The Ohio-based company said sales for the three months ending November 1 totalled $1.472 billion, up 9% from the third quarter of 2024 and above its previously communicated guidance range of $1.390 billion to $1.420 billion. Meanwhile, total comparable sales for the third quarter of 2025 increased 8%.

Victoria’s Secret recouped its earnings, reporting a net loss of $37 million, or $0.46 per diluted share, compared to net loss of $56 million, or $0.71 per diluted share, for the third quarter of 2024.

“With two iconic brands, Victoria’s Secret and Pink, a curated product assortment, high-emotion marketing and a relentless customer focus, we are reinforcing our leadership in global intimates and beauty,” said Victoria’s Secret & Co. CEO, Hillary Super.

“As we continue to advance our Path to Potential strategy, we are accelerating global growth, elevating brand distinctiveness, and unlocking greater value across our ecosystem to drive long-term profitable growth.”

Looking ahead, the company is now forecasting full-year net sales in the range of $6.450 billion to $6.480 billion, compared to prior guidance of $6.330 billion to $6.410 billion for the full year 2025. Adjusted net income per diluted share is estimated to be in the range of $2.40 to $2.65, compared to prior guidance of $1.80 to $2.20.

For the fourth quarter, the company is forecasting net sales to be in the range of $2.170 billion to $2.200 billion compared to last year’s fourth quarter net sales of $2.106 billion.

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