French journalist and TV personality Mademoiselle Agnès, a renowned chronicler of the fashion scene and its secrets, often crosses the border into the product world. In the past, she has amused herself by refreshing the looks of ready-to-wear brands Damart and Tati. This year, Mademoiselle Agnès has worked on a sophisticated collaboration with long-established French leather goods brand Le Tanneur.
Le Tanneur X Mademoiselle Agnès – Le Tanneur
It all started with a small seamless purse, the Sans Couture. Le Tanneur’s new handbag line, featuring the Jean medium-sized model and the Grand Jean in XL format, is a fresh take on the Sans Couture’s sleek, functional design, made with soft leather and available in sizes that will allow busy women to slip their laptops into these bags, priced respectively at €550 and €700. “I began with [Le Tanneur’s] iconic seamless purse as a basis. We needed to develop the right technique, almost like that of a glass-blower, to increase its size and transform it into a relatively large handbag, and even an extra-large one. We redesigned the wave-shaped flap, added silver and golden nickel buckles for the handles, which I wanted both short and long for ease of carrying, to eventually give it a look that would appeal to everyone,” said Mademoiselle Agnès.
Discreetly hidden behind the handbag’s flap, the Jean le chat branding in silver, a nod to Mademoiselle Agnès’s British Shorthair cat called Jean. The handbags can be worn in a variety of ways thanks to the double handles, shoulder strap and cross-body strap. The colours available are bright neutral shades like coffee brown, reed green, and ivory. The collaboration also includes a series of leather accessories that can be affixed to the bags like charms: a glasses case, a post-it holder, a pen holder and a photo holder.
Le Tanneur
Asked about what sparked her interest for working with Le Tanneur, a brand founded in 1898, beyond its French identity, Mademoiselle Agnès mentioned a Proustian ‘madeleine’ moment: “As a child, I used to have a Tann’s satchel [by Le Tanneur], and I thought about the ad that said ‘t’as ton Tann’s!’ (you and your Tann’s), meaning you were cool. Le Tanneur is a brand with something a bit transgenerational about it. I was immediately drawn to the idea of designing [a Le Tanneur bag]. Seeing it worn in the street would feel like seeing someone wearing their heart on their sleeve, as [French rock singer] Bashung said.”
What were the key criteria in this collaboration? “Respecting the brand’s heritage while developing a shape that was new for Le Tanneur, and establishing an excellent connection with the team of enthusiastic, receptive and committed young women working in a beautiful Parisian space at La Madeleine, where we shot the campaign,” said Mademoiselle Agnès. She envisages further drops in this collaboration, saying that “I can already imagine three new shades like a deep green, a cherry red and a very bright pink.”
The collaboration is part of a transformation phase for Le Tanneur. As Managing Director Nicolas Gibert told FashionNetwork.com, the brand is intensifying its digital communication, expanding its export activity and, at the end of last year, it opened a flagship store with a customisation atelier in Paris, at 16 boulevard des Capucines. The collaboration with Mademoiselle Agnès seems to be part of these efforts aimed at boosting the appeal of the brand, which generated revenue of €27 million in 2023.
The house of Moschino has unveiled an uncanny new special installation inside Dover Street Market in Paris. Its name: “Piece of Sheet.”
Moschino’s “Piece of Sheet” installation is on view at Dover Street Market Parisuntil April 22. – Courtesy of Moschino
In effect, it’s a unique visual setting dedicated to Moschino’s Spring/Summer 2025 women’s collection bearing the same name. It features fashion and accessories from the collection, including white dresses made of cotton sheets.
Moschino at Dover Street Market Paris – Courtesy of Moschino
The Milanese brand’s creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, is “a great admirer of everything related to Dover Street Market,” so he wanted to create a unique visual moment dedicated to the collection in the boutique.
The installation features bed sheets and laundry hanging on lines, along with light wood panels on the walls—mirroring the setup of the show. Unveiled last September, the collection was the third by Argentine-born Appiolaza for the house and contained many plays on elements taken directly from the Moschino archives: polka dots, ruffled or multi-fringed dresses, pearl necklaces, slogan suits, or black leather biker jackets.
Moschino at Dover Street Market Paris – Courtesy of Moschino
Appiolaza succeeded American-born Jeremy Scott in December 2023, arriving with an impressive CV that included stints at JW Anderson, Miu Miu, and Chloé.
His new installation will stay live until Tuesday, April 22. During Milan Fashion Week in February, Moschino built a similar installation inside Rinascente Duomo, Milan’s key department store.
Moschino is also available in Paris in its flagship boutique at 255 Rue Saint-Honoré.
UK shop price inflation continued to be UK shop price deflation in March, which is good news for consumers at least in the month before many of their must-pay bills (such as energy, council tax and more) rise sharply.
Photo: Pixabay
And as well as overall deflation, the latest figures from the BRC-NIQ Shop Price Index showed the clothing and footwear category in double-digit deflation “as a result of weak consumer demand”.
Overall shop price deflation was 0.4% year on year in March, although prices weren’t falling as sharply as they did in February (0.7%) or across the first three months of the year combined (0.6%).
Looking specifically at non-food, deflation was 1.9%, compared to 2.1% in February.
The price declines in non-food — and fashion specifically — helped to counter price rises in food, which grew 2.4%, higher than the 2.1% in February.
BRC chief executive Helen Dickinson said retailers were continuing “to do all they can to protect customers from the cost pressures bearing down on the industry. Prices fell for most non-food categories, which kept year-on-year overall shop prices in deflation, but at a reduced rate compared to February.
“With retailers bracing for significant extra costs which kick in later this week as a result of the Budget, inflation will likely accelerate in the coming months.”
And Mike Watkins, head of retailer and business insight at NielsenIQ, added: “There is competition on the high street as retailers look to pull in reluctant shoppers with seasonal promotions. However, with upwards pressure on prices, retailers may also need some focused price cuts to help footfall in the run up to the late Easter.”
Les Deux, the Copenhagen-based menswear brand, has released its 2024 results and they show the 13th consecutive year of growth.
Co-founders Andreas von der Heide and Kristoffer Haapanen – Les Deux
Revenue jumped in double digits, despite the challenging market backdrop that saw many companies large and small across all price points struggling to deliver meaningful growth.
It didn’t provide a specific revenue figure beyond the double-digit information, nor a number of other comparisons figures for 2023. But it said EBITDA saw “another year of growth” to €8.265 million (DKK 61.67 million) and pre-tax profit rose to €7.879 million (DKK58.792 million). Gross profit was €13.887 million (DKK103.613 million).
Its target for this year is further double-digit revenue expansion and EBITDA of €9.5 million-€10.5 million (DKK70 million-DKK80million). It said it has identified major growth opportunities in DACH, France, Benelux, the UK, and North America.
The company added that the 2024 figures “highlight Les Deux’s position as a growing force on the global scene”, with strong international expansion last year that included 25 new permanent shop-in-shops in premium department stores like De Bijenkorf in the Netherlands, Galeries Lafayette in France, and Nordstrom in the US.
Founded in 2011 by Andreas von der Heide, Kristoffer Haapanen, and a friend, Les Deux combines “minimalist Scandinavian design with fresh international influences” and offers a mix of preppy and streetwear pieces.
As well as the strong results, last year was a record done as far as investment in the brand is concerned. It put in place a new ERP system “to future-proof the brand’s operations, along with advanced analytics tools enhance decision making”.
And staff numbers rose by a double-digit percentage, while it also opened two new international offices to expand its reach across Europe, with new spaces in Düsseldorf and Paris, plus an expansion of showrooms in the Copenhagen HQ.
The year also saw it taking direct control in key markets including France and the UK, transitioning from agents to in-house operations “to foster closer client relationships”.
Plus there was a “successful” collab release with Yale University and it set up US distribution, which has seen the market become its sixth-largest.