Lanvin Group continues to struggle with declining sales and profitability in 2025. The Chinese luxury conglomerate, listed on the New York Stock Exchange and formerly known as Fosun Fashion Group, owns brands including Wolford, Sergio Rossi, St. John, and Caruso. For the first half of 2025, the Group reported revenue of €133 million, representing a 22% year-over-year decline. Its namesake label, Lanvin, experienced a dramatic sales collapse of over 40%. Gross profit also declined by 26.8%, falling to €71.9 million, while gross operating losses deepened.
The downturn, according to Group management, reflects ongoing weakness in the global luxury market, compounded by “lower wholesale sales in the EMEA region” and the Group’s strategic pivot toward direct-to-consumer sales, which dropped 23%. Lanvin’s performance was a significant drag on the Group’s overall figures.
Once positioned as Lanvin Group’s strongest asset, the Paris-based label fell to third place in the portfolio within one year. Sales for the brand plummeted by 42.1%, sliding from €48.2 million in H1 2024 to €27.9 million by June 30, 2025. Regionally, Lanvin’s sales plunged by over 60% in Greater China and by 47% in Europe. The label’s gross profit dropped to €15.1 million, down from €28 million in the prior year, with a gross margin of 58%.
The Group described this period as “a time of transition,” noting that multi-brand retailers adopted a wait-and-see approach ahead of the debut of Lanvin’s new aesthetic. British designer Peter Copping, appointed as artistic director at the end of 2024, revealed his first collection for the house in January. Wholesale sales dropped by 61.8%. Still, Lanvin Group sees potential in early signs of retail recovery: “Lanvin and Sergio Rossi recorded a strong quarter-on-quarter rebound in retail and online, highlighting early signs of renewed consumer interest,” the company said.
Mixed results across other brands
Sergio Rossi, which also underwent a creative transition with the arrival of designer Paul Andrew—whose debut collection is expected in the second half of the year—saw first-half sales fall by 25% to €15.3 million. Gross margin slipped by 9% to €6.2 million, a shift attributed to a revised product assortment.
Sales at American luxury knitwear brand St. John remained relatively stable, falling just 0.8% to €39.6 million. Meanwhile, the Wolford brand reported €32.9 million in revenue, a 22.6% decline. Menswear specialist Caruso reported sales of €17.6 million, a 10.7% decrease.
Losses deepen as the Group looks ahead
Adjusted gross operating loss (Ebitda) for the Group rose from -€42 million in the first half of 2024 to -€52 million one year later. Gross margin dropped to 54%, down from 58%. According to the company, the decline was due to the sale of off-season inventory during the creative transition, underutilization of production facilities, and changes to product mixes. “Although all brands took steps to improve sales and manage inventory levels, these efforts were offset by the industry-wide headwinds encountered during the period,” the company said.
A focus on rebuilding brand momentum
“In the first half, we focused on operational discipline and laying the foundations for future growth,” said Lanvin Group Executive Chairman Andy Lew, who was appointed earlier this year. “With a new creative direction across our houses, supported by targeted marketing and refined channel strategies, we expect to build brand momentum and increase consumer engagement in the second half. We remain agile and focused on execution, while reinforcing the desirability of our brands and preparing for the recovery.”
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The Who’s Next trade show, held in Hall 7 of the Parc des Expositions (Paris XV) from January 17 to 19, put accessory brands centre stage. Eyewear, jewellery of every kind, bags, mittens, and headwear – buyers were spoilt for choice. Among these brands, a few caught the eye of FashionNetwork.com.
Italian Okkia and its affordable eyewear
Founded in 2016, this Italian brand specializes in affordable eyewear. – Okkia
Founded in 2016, Okkia is an Italian brand offering affordable eyewear, from prescription frames to sunglasses. It is exhibiting at Who’s Next for the first time, with ambitious international plans. Its attractive pricing — €25 for prescription glasses, €27 for sunglasses and €40 for both — helped it sell one million units in 2025. Already widely distributed across Europe, the brand is also present in the United States, several Latin American countries, Turkey and the Maldives. It now aims to establish itself in countries such as Australia, where it is not yet present, and to strengthen its global footprint. This year will see the launch of two new lines for Okkia, as well as a collaboration with Italian designer Seletti.
Lumielle Aurora 1896 holds umbrella licences for a number of brands, including Agnès b. – Lumielle Aurora 1896
Japanese premium umbrella brand Lumielle Aurora 1896 marked its second appearance at the show, having made its debut last September. The brand is seeking a foothold in European stores — a strategy only recently set in motion — but is, for now, hampered by its pricing. Made in Japan from textiles produced in-house in the Niigata region, these umbrellas, with wooden or bamboo handles, have so far found limited traction in Europe. Lumielle Aurora 1896 has, therefore, developed a more affordable line, presented at the show alongside parasols for hot weather. Aurora has also owned Tokyo Hat since 2007, a brand of caps and other headwear featured across several stands. With a more contemporary offer, Tokyo Hat hopes to win over retailers with a younger clientele and a taste for creative fashion.
The timeless Le Béret Français and Le Bonnet Français
Le Béret Français regularly benefits from French lifestyle trends – Le Béret Français
Le Béret Français and its recently acquired subsidiary, Le Bonnet Français, were also in attendance this January. Le Béret Français, which holds the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) label, aims to maintain its positive growth trajectory, particularly buoyed in recent years by the Rugby World Cup in France and the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. With €1 million in annual sales, the company nevertheless faces strong competition from other brands, whose product quality is not always on a par with its own, made in Bayonne from French wool. Even so, Le Béret Français can boast sales to a wide range of partners, including department stores, milliners and even museums, whose end consumers are very diverse.
Who’s Next also boasted a broad line-up of exhibitors, including Naked Wolfe and its colourful shoes, Zen Collective and its Buddhist bracelets, and Hinterveld and its thick mohair scarves.
A year-and-a-half after his fellow co-founder, Max Svärdh, stepped back, Albin Johansson is now doing the same at Axel Arigato, the label they founded together in 2014. In June 2024, the Swedish brand, renowned for its sneakers and chic streetwear, announced the appointment of Jens Werner as creative director, a role previously overseen by Max Svärdh.
Axel Arigato boutique – Axel Arigato
At that time, Johansson remained CEO of the brand, in which the investment firm Eurazeo took a majority stake in 2020. However, in early 2026, the company—which reportedly exceeded SEK 1 billion in turnover in 2024 (over €90 million)—appointed Frédéric Serrant to the role. He brings more than 16 years’ experience in international leadership roles across Asia and Latin America, gained at Adidas, the sports and lifestyle giant.
This expertise is expected to help Axel Arigato enter a new phase after years of expansion. The brand operates more than 15 standalone stores in major Scandinavian cities, as well as in key cities such as London, Paris, New York, Dubai and Berlin. It is also present in numerous department stores worldwide. However, this expansion has also eroded its margins, and the company has had to refine its strategy to limit operating losses.
“I am sincerely impressed by the remarkable work done so far to make Axel Arigato such a strong, distinctive and inspiring brand. It truly reflects the talent, passion and commitment of the teams, and I’m convinced that the brand’s potential is enormous. I look forward to joining the team, learning alongside them and writing the next chapters of the Axel Arigato story together,” commented Serrant, in a LinkedIn post.
Johansson will remain chairman of the board of directors.
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Against the prevailing mood in the United States he so loves, Kinji Teramoto refuses to turn inward. Hence, the man who refers to himself as the “archivenist” — a term he coined — and who has revived the iconic American labels Big Yank and Rocky Mountain Featherbed, is bringing them with him to 30 Galerie Vivienne, in Paris’s 2nd arrondissement. Open from January 20 to 28, the pop-up will primarily showcase RMFC and its down-filled garments, better suited to the current season, with Big Yank shirts taking a back seat.
Kinji Teramoto, passionate “archivenist” and reviver of heritage brands – 35IVE Summers
On arriving in Paris, Teramoto hopes to blend Tokyo’s gentle spirit with the cool elegance of the French capital. This trip from Japan follows the arrival in 2025 of the European branch of 35IVE Summers, the brands’ parent company, in Paris. Accordingly, the success of this pop-up store will determine whether the two labels secure a lasting presence on Parisian streets, a long-standing project for Teramoto and his teams.
A Paris outpost in the pipeline?
Paris represents a particular opportunity for the “archivenist”, not least because his partner at Anatomica, Pierre Fournier, is based there. The City of Light is also an ideal place to raise the profile of RMFC and Big Yank. The two American brands, founded in the late 1960s and in 1919, respectively, were acquired by 35IVE Summers in 2005 and 2012. Based on a series of pieces acquired by Teramoto, both labels have been relaunched with products that marry heritage and modern, Japan-based manufacturing. Should a permanent presence be established, 35IVE Summers would even look to produce locally the pieces sold in Europe, embracing a local production-and-distribution model.
Rocky Mountain Featherbed will take centre stage – Rocky Mountain Feathebed
All of this is underpinned by a highly unusual development cycle. “Garments made in one or two months are incomplete,” Teramoto explained. “We create patterns and produce samples at least three times, then personally try the finished items and wear them for at least six months to observe how they age. This process is our 18-month commitment,” he continued.
Passing on to future generations
The “archivenist”, who rejects the label of collector, believes that every vintage piece carries meaning, having endured through time.
“I only collect what I can truly bring back to life. […] My aim is for the next generation to wear these pieces and in turn pass them on to the next,” he added.
What’s more, RMFC and Big Yank pieces, which revisit designs several decades old, feed the vintage market and will once again be unearthed by new generations.
Big Yank was founded in 1919 by Reliance Company in Chicago – Big Yank
Teramoto’s wish to preserve the aesthetics of archival pieces springs from his passion for the labels he has brought back to life: “What these two brands created was truly iconic. What I felt at the time became my business, beyond mere commercial viability,” he confides. “At the time, I could never have imagined that the pieces I created from these archives would be embraced by the global market.”
RMFC and Big Yank have not only been reborn; they are thriving. Rocky Mountain Featherbed closes 2025 with significant growth in Europe and the Americas, with sales in Japan also on the rise.
Big Yank, meanwhile, is seeing its sales climb in Japan, according to Teramoto. In 2025, the brand appointed BerBer Jin’s Yutaka Fujihara as creative director, a move that “is currently attracting strong interest, at least in Japan.”
He is expected at the Paris pop-up store “to increase brand awareness in Europe and the Americas.”
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