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Lanvin Group sales drop 22% in first half as flagship brand falters

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 1, 2025

Lanvin Group continues to struggle with declining sales and profitability in 2025. The Chinese luxury conglomerate, listed on the New York Stock Exchange and formerly known as Fosun Fashion Group, owns brands including Wolford, Sergio Rossi, St. John, and Caruso. For the first half of 2025, the Group reported revenue of €133 million, representing a 22% year-over-year decline. Its namesake label, Lanvin, experienced a dramatic sales collapse of over 40%. Gross profit also declined by 26.8%, falling to €71.9 million, while gross operating losses deepened.

Lanvin sales slump in first half – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The downturn, according to Group management, reflects ongoing weakness in the global luxury market, compounded by “lower wholesale sales in the EMEA region” and the Group’s strategic pivot toward direct-to-consumer sales, which dropped 23%. Lanvin’s performance was a significant drag on the Group’s overall figures.

Once positioned as Lanvin Group’s strongest asset, the Paris-based label fell to third place in the portfolio within one year. Sales for the brand plummeted by 42.1%, sliding from €48.2 million in H1 2024 to €27.9 million by June 30, 2025. Regionally, Lanvin’s sales plunged by over 60% in Greater China and by 47% in Europe. The label’s gross profit dropped to €15.1 million, down from €28 million in the prior year, with a gross margin of 58%.

The Group described this period as “a time of transition,” noting that multi-brand retailers adopted a wait-and-see approach ahead of the debut of Lanvin’s new aesthetic. British designer Peter Copping, appointed as artistic director at the end of 2024, revealed his first collection for the house in January. Wholesale sales dropped by 61.8%. Still, Lanvin Group sees potential in early signs of retail recovery: “Lanvin and Sergio Rossi recorded a strong quarter-on-quarter rebound in retail and online, highlighting early signs of renewed consumer interest,” the company said.

Mixed results across other brands

Sergio Rossi, which also underwent a creative transition with the arrival of designer Paul Andrew—whose debut collection is expected in the second half of the year—saw first-half sales fall by 25% to €15.3 million. Gross margin slipped by 9% to €6.2 million, a shift attributed to a revised product assortment.

Sales at American luxury knitwear brand St. John remained relatively stable, falling just 0.8% to €39.6 million. Meanwhile, the Wolford brand reported €32.9 million in revenue, a 22.6% decline. Menswear specialist Caruso reported sales of €17.6 million, a 10.7% decrease.

Losses deepen as the Group looks ahead

Adjusted gross operating loss (Ebitda) for the Group rose from -€42 million in the first half of 2024 to -€52 million one year later. Gross margin dropped to 54%, down from 58%. According to the company, the decline was due to the sale of off-season inventory during the creative transition, underutilization of production facilities, and changes to product mixes. “Although all brands took steps to improve sales and manage inventory levels, these efforts were offset by the industry-wide headwinds encountered during the period,” the company said.

A focus on rebuilding brand momentum

“In the first half, we focused on operational discipline and laying the foundations for future growth,” said Lanvin Group Executive Chairman Andy Lew, who was appointed earlier this year. “With a new creative direction across our houses, supported by targeted marketing and refined channel strategies, we expect to build brand momentum and increase consumer engagement in the second half. We remain agile and focused on execution, while reinforcing the desirability of our brands and preparing for the recovery.”

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Cosmetics giant Unilever finalises business demerger

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December 5, 2025

The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.

Reuters

Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.

The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.

Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.

“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.

Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
 

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Burberry elevates two SVPs to supply chain and customer exec roles

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December 5, 2025

Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.

Burberry – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm. 

In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.

Matteo Calonaci - Burberry
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry

Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.

Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.

JohnattanLeon - Burberry
JohnattanLeon – Burberry

Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.

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Puneet Gupta steps into fine jewellery

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December 5, 2025

Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.

Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta

 
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”

The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.

An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta

 
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.

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