Lanvin Group continues to struggle with declining sales and profitability in 2025. The Chinese luxury conglomerate, listed on the New York Stock Exchange and formerly known as Fosun Fashion Group, owns brands including Wolford, Sergio Rossi, St. John, and Caruso. For the first half of 2025, the Group reported revenue of €133 million, representing a 22% year-over-year decline. Its namesake label, Lanvin, experienced a dramatic sales collapse of over 40%. Gross profit also declined by 26.8%, falling to €71.9 million, while gross operating losses deepened.
The downturn, according to Group management, reflects ongoing weakness in the global luxury market, compounded by “lower wholesale sales in the EMEA region” and the Group’s strategic pivot toward direct-to-consumer sales, which dropped 23%. Lanvin’s performance was a significant drag on the Group’s overall figures.
Once positioned as Lanvin Group’s strongest asset, the Paris-based label fell to third place in the portfolio within one year. Sales for the brand plummeted by 42.1%, sliding from €48.2 million in H1 2024 to €27.9 million by June 30, 2025. Regionally, Lanvin’s sales plunged by over 60% in Greater China and by 47% in Europe. The label’s gross profit dropped to €15.1 million, down from €28 million in the prior year, with a gross margin of 58%.
The Group described this period as “a time of transition,” noting that multi-brand retailers adopted a wait-and-see approach ahead of the debut of Lanvin’s new aesthetic. British designer Peter Copping, appointed as artistic director at the end of 2024, revealed his first collection for the house in January. Wholesale sales dropped by 61.8%. Still, Lanvin Group sees potential in early signs of retail recovery: “Lanvin and Sergio Rossi recorded a strong quarter-on-quarter rebound in retail and online, highlighting early signs of renewed consumer interest,” the company said.
Mixed results across other brands
Sergio Rossi, which also underwent a creative transition with the arrival of designer Paul Andrew—whose debut collection is expected in the second half of the year—saw first-half sales fall by 25% to €15.3 million. Gross margin slipped by 9% to €6.2 million, a shift attributed to a revised product assortment.
Sales at American luxury knitwear brand St. John remained relatively stable, falling just 0.8% to €39.6 million. Meanwhile, the Wolford brand reported €32.9 million in revenue, a 22.6% decline. Menswear specialist Caruso reported sales of €17.6 million, a 10.7% decrease.
Losses deepen as the Group looks ahead
Adjusted gross operating loss (Ebitda) for the Group rose from -€42 million in the first half of 2024 to -€52 million one year later. Gross margin dropped to 54%, down from 58%. According to the company, the decline was due to the sale of off-season inventory during the creative transition, underutilization of production facilities, and changes to product mixes. “Although all brands took steps to improve sales and manage inventory levels, these efforts were offset by the industry-wide headwinds encountered during the period,” the company said.
A focus on rebuilding brand momentum
“In the first half, we focused on operational discipline and laying the foundations for future growth,” said Lanvin Group Executive Chairman Andy Lew, who was appointed earlier this year. “With a new creative direction across our houses, supported by targeted marketing and refined channel strategies, we expect to build brand momentum and increase consumer engagement in the second half. We remain agile and focused on execution, while reinforcing the desirability of our brands and preparing for the recovery.”
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Barcelona-based label Desigual is expanding its line-up of international collaborations. The label has unveiled a new collection co-created with Masha Popova, a Ukrainian designer based in London, resulting in an offering that blends Mediterranean spirit with a distinctly London edge and will be available from February 17 across all the company’s physical retail outlets and online.
The new capsule created with Masha Popova will be available from 17 February in stores and online – Desigual
The collection has been conceived as a dialogue between Desigual’s archive and the bold, sensual, and rebellious aesthetic that defines Popova’s creative universe. The pieces reinterpret the brand’s bohemian essence through a contemporary lens, combining craftsmanship, a raw attitude and a confident, modern visual language; garments include hand-finished denim, fitted silhouettes, and avant-garde pieces.
This launch comes at a strategic moment for Desigual in the UK market. In 2025, the company posted double-digit digital growth in the UK, with a 16% increase in turnover, cementing it as one of the brand’s most promising European markets. At present, the brand operates in the country exclusively via its e-commerce platform, with no brick-and-mortar network.
Furthermore, through this new alliance, Desigual reaffirms its commitment to collaborating with international brands and designers as a driver of creative renewal and global reach. In this vein, the label has recently developed capsules with the French label Egonlab and Botter, founded by designers Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter in Amsterdam.
Founded in 1984 by Thomas Meyer, Desigual is a Barcelona-based fashion company with more than 280 company-owned stores and a presence in 107 markets across ten sales channels. On the economic front, the company closed the 2024 financial year with turnover of €332 million, supported especially by its international expansion and the growth of its digital business.
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Alix Morabito, director of assortment and buying at Galeries Lafayette, is rounding out her team within a newly restructured buying division. To lead buying for the pivotal womenswear and leather goods segment, the Parisian department store has turned to a rival currently in the midst of a revamp: La Samaritaine.
Victoria Dartigues has been appointed Director of Womenswear and Leather Goods Buying at Galeries Lafayette – David Atlan/ Galeries Lafayette
Victoria Dartigues has taken up her new post after four years heading buying and merchandising at LVMH’s Right Bank department store in Paris. Since 2019, she has been with DFS, the luxury group’s duty-free subsidiary that spearheaded the Paris project, and played a key role in the relaunch of La Samaritaine.
For Victoria Dartigues, a graduate of HEC Montréal and IFM, this appointment at Galeries Lafayette is something of a homecoming: her first experience in Parisian department stores was as a buying assistant at Galeries Lafayette. She went on to join rival Printemps as a womenswear buyer in 2012.
After more than six years at the Printemps group, where she rose to head of merchandising overseeing the designer offer, she spent a stint at Kenzo before moving to DFS in 2019.
“A specialist in the multi-brand and department store sector, she has built strong relationships with brands over the years, curating assortments and leading negotiations,” Galeries Lafayette said in a press release. The group added that her appointment completes a buying leadership team comprising Alice Feillard for menswear and footwear, Pascale Leboutet-Reberat for beauty, and Violaine Moreau, who has been promoted to head up childrenswear, home and luggage.
“This new structure addresses the strategic challenge of asserting Galeries Lafayette’s commercial and creative vision through an increasingly exclusive offering,” the group said in its press release.
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Great Portland Estates (GPE) has appointed a new chief financial officer, with Jayne Cottam joining the London-centric commercial property firm’s board from 16 March.
Great Portland Estates
She succeeds Nick Sanderson who is stepping down as GPE’s chief financial & operating officer to take up the position of chief financial officer at British real estate services company Savills from 30 January.
Cottam “brings significant financial leadership and operational experience” stock market-listed GPE said on announcing her appointment to the London Stock Exchange Monday (19 January).
Most recently, she served as CFO of healthcare property company Assura from September 2017 to December 2025.
GPE chair William Eccleshare said: “Jayne brings a wealth of skills, knowledge and experience which will be invaluable to the board and management team as we progress our growth agenda.” And CEO Toby Courtauld added: “Jayne brings an excellent blend of financial, operational and leadership qualities with the right values for GPE’s culture.”
She joins at a time when analysts are noting that GPE continues to outperform the broader UK property sector, boosted not only by slowly increasing demand for London offices but also via its catchment area of prime prime West End retail sites that continue to be in high demand as the company continues to capture the ‘flight to quality trend’.
The company’s most recent investor commentary reiterated “stable-to-improving” leasing momentum across its core West End and City portfolio.