Kering‘s return to growth will require reducing its reliance on struggling flagship Gucci, further scaling back its store network and chasing more synergies, Chief Executive Luca de Meo said in a memo seen by Reuters.
The document, a summary of a more detailed memo dubbed “ReconKering” recently sent to senior staff, offers the first detailed overview of de Meo’s strategic vision for the group.
Emerging less than a month after the group struck a deal to offload its beauty divisionin a $4.7 billion euro deal with l”Oreal to raise much-needed cash and focus on its core luxury fashion business, the note is marked by a candid, yet modest tone.
“We remain humble,” de Meo wrote in the note, saying that his ambition was to “become the undisputed challenger in luxury” in five to ten years.
Long seen as a threat to its larger French rival LVMH, Kering has been grappling with a double-digit sales decline at its flagship label Gucci while piling up debt through acquisitions.
De Meo in the memo sets a 18-month timeline to get all brands back on the growth track, while saying that restoring a “top financial performance” will take three years.
Kering said in a statement de Meo outlined “the foundations of Kering’s future strategic plan” when taking over the helm in September, which have since been “broadly communicated with employees.”
The official strategy plan will be presented to investors next spring, it added.
In the note, de Meo said the company, which has closed 55 stores in the past year, further needs to downsize its retail network and rethink its price positioning and assortment after years of price hikes.
The group’s jewellery division, which has struggled to scale up and compete with the brands of larger rivals LVMH and Richemont, needs to chase synergies, de Meo said.
Among the brands to develop, de Meo also cited suit maker Brioni, which has been rumoured as a likely divestment candidate along with loss-making fashion label Alexander McQueen.
Kering shares, which had lost over half of their value in two years, have risen by 75% since de Meo was hired to succeed controlling shareholder Francois-Henri Pinault as chief executive.
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.