Online fashion wholesale platform JOOR has unveiled its latest shoppable trends report with the company saying the autumn season will see “a return to high glamour and fun-fuelled femininity”.
That means “sequin-strewn embellishments and impactful animal prints to dramatic new construction details and silhouettes”. That view is based on runway brands “increasingly eschewing the muted themes of quiet luxury in favour of more maximalist looks”.
The On Trend: Women’s Fall 2025 report has identified six key trends to be buying into for AW25.
Animal Print sees classic leopard and snakeskin, plus zebra “bringing boldness back to fashion”. Stella McCartney showcased faux python dresses made from an innovative vegan fabric of mushroom origin, while Versace took a more traditional approach with flashes of leopard print popping up on silk babydolls and leather handbags that are strong for party season.
The Bohemian Glamour trend sees last season’s boho looks continuing as Chloé, Blumarine and Zimmerman all chose to “embrace a 1970s aesthetic once again”. Designers are also “leaning into the glamorous rock and roll spirit of the decade, creating floaty lace maxi dresses that make for eye-catching day or eveningwear”. Some paired ethereal pieces with fur waistcoats and layers of gold jewellery, while others sent models down the runway in silk creations teamed with knee-high boots and sunglasses “for the ultimate in off-duty glamour”. The Polished Neutrals look “provides a palette cleanser” with cream, brown and putty grey separates “set to become one of the biggest trends, as these serene shades elevated everything from skirts to shirts and accessories on the runway”. It “brings a ladylike sophistication to any ensemble” with standout interpretations coming from Tory Burch and Brioni.
Statement Coats are always big in the cold-weather season and this time are all about oversized collars, extra wide sleeves and “larger-than-life silhouettes” as this trend “plays with volume and proportion in unexpected ways”. Sacai brought deconstructed shearling and puffer coats to the catwalk while Khaite’s camel coloured wool coats with dramatic draping offered a more wearable take on the trend. Extra-long coats are also clearly key and while JOOR didn’t reference it, that was something that took a starring role at Coach as the first items to emerge onto the runway were maxi (not maximalist) coats.
Sparkle & Shine is another trend often seen in AW due to party season coming in the middle of it, “but this year styles are shining brighter than ever”. Designers “are going all out on sequins, chrome fringing and metallic mesh to create a trend for those looking to lift their spirits and indulge in a taste of opulence”. For Jil Sander’s collection, pleats and fringing were comprised entirely of sequins, creating a sparkling spectacle against its pitch-black show staging. At Jenny Packham, an evening gown made up of hundreds of silver and gold studs “proved that this trend truly has the wow factor”.
Finally, there’s Skinny Pants. In a “departure from the wide-legged styles of former seasons, the skinny-fit pant has made a triumphant comeback with designers like Prabal Gurung and Versace leading the charge. Adding a slim leg silhouette into a wardrobe is easy and works with a variety of different shoe styles,” we’re told. Also embracing the trend were MSGM with patent leather skinny pants paired with open toe fur-sole sandals, while Victoria Beckham’s slim leg wool pants were teamed with loafers. Dries Van Noten also gave skinny pants a printed makeover “for an interesting take on the style that feels fresh and unexpected”.
Amanda McCormick Bacal, SVP of marketing, said: “This season’s runway shows mark a notable shift away from the quiet luxury sensibility of recent years towards a revived sense of maximalism, with brands vying to inject a louder aesthetic into our wardrobes.”
If you can’t beat them join them. That’s the strategy behind saving the Forever 21 name as the last remaining stores are shuttered and the brand pursues a model that is similar to its online competitors.
Forever 21
US Bankruptcy Judge Mary Walrath gave the company temporary permission on Tuesday to start going-out-of business sales at all of its 354 stores while managers try to find a last-second rescuer for part of the 41-year-old clothing chain.
Forever 21 has “had advanced discussions with third parties” about rescuing part of the chain, company attorney Andrew L. Magaziner said during the court hearing. The situation “remains fluid.”
Since the 1980s, Forever 21 stores have attracted droves of young women by selling low-cost, trendy clothing. But the company was undone by the rising cost of inventory and wages and competition from online retailers, like Temu and Shein that can skirt import duties and tariffs by shipping goods directly to consumers, the company said in court papers.
It’s the company’s second bankruptcy and the latest brick-and-mortar store to fold in a wave of closures over the past decade or so. The pace of failures picked up during the pandemic as malls closed, and buyers turned to online sellers during lockdown.
Should it fail to find a partner to rescue some of its stores, Forever 21 would rely on shipping goods directly from overseas factories to consumers and to other retail outlets, according to a person familiar with the company’s plans. Authentic Brands Group LLC, the apparel and lifestyle label empire which owns the Forever 21 name and other intellectual property, has successfully tested the factory-to-retailer model outside the US, the person said.
Last year just 11% of Forever 21’s sales were online, according to court papers. The company also plans to sell Forever 21 apparel in partner stores, including in JCPenney where such an arrangement is already underway.
Currently, Forever 21 uses a traditional structure in which designers and other vendors in the US acquire merchandise from overseas factories, mainly in China, Korea and Hong Kong, according to court records. That material is then sent to Forever 21 stores and warehouses, which requires the company to pay duties and tariffs, the records show.
Authentic Brands will continue to own the IP and may license the brand to other operators, according to a statement Sunday. Forever 21’s locations outside of the US are operated by other licensees and aren’t included in the bankruptcy.
The company plans to finish shutting its stores by the end of April, Magaziner said in court on Tuesday. If a buyer appears for some of the stores, the company would adjust its strategy, he told Walrath.
A joint venture of Hilco, Gordon Brothers Retail Partners LLC, and SB360 Capital Partners is working on the liquidation.
The court also approved a request to use secured lenders’ cash to fund the bankruptcy cases and payrolls. The company entered the Chapter 11 with about $47.2 million bank cash, according to a budget disclosed in the court papers.
It’s the clothing brand’s second stint with bankruptcy. Its first in 2019 was rife with fighting, left creditors little recovery and resulted in the closing of hundreds of locations it had during its heyday.
A group of buyers — including Simon Property Group Inc., Brookfield Corp. and Authentic Brands — teamed up to buy Forever 21 out of bankruptcy through a venture called Sparc Group. That group partnered with Shein in 2023 as Forever 21 attempted to solve some of its operational issues.
A few months ago, US retail group JCPenney acquired Sparc, forming Catalyst Brands. The deal saw its previous shareholders maintain minority stakes in the company. At the time of the merger, Catalyst said it was exploring strategic options for the operations of Forever 21.
Russian diamond producer Alrosa announced on Tuesday that it had decided to temporarily suspend operations at its less profitable deposits.
Reuters
The suspension will affect deposits with an annual production of less than 1 million carats, it said. The company said it still planned to produce 29 million carats of diamonds in 2025.
In November 2024, Alrosa said that it might suspend some production in 2025 and reduce staff.
Dolce & Gabbana Srl, the Italian fashion house known for bold, Mediterranean-inspired designs, says its beauty business now holds the key to an independent future in the rapidly shifting luxury industry.
Revenue from beauty products is expected to rise more than 20% for the 12 months through the end of March 2025, to €610 million ($665 million), Chief Executive Officer Alfonso Dolce said in an interview. That would lift total annual revenue to around €2 billion.
The company is also targeting €1 billion in beauty sales by the end of the 2027 financial year, following a shift from licensing to direct management of production and distribution of fragrances, makeup and skincare.
Dolce Gabbana’s pivot on beauty comes at a fraught moment for the fashion sector, where a global slump has raised questions about the standalone future of some of its rivals.
Hong Kong-listed Prada SpA is nearing a deal to buy Gianni Versace Srl, while fashion icon Giorgio Armani rocked the industry last year when he said he no longer rules out a merger or listing once he exits the scene.
Dolce Gabbana’s reaction has been to double down on its independence by broadening its revenue streams. Along with the decision to directly manage the beauty business, it’s also testing the waters in real estate and hotels.
“We asked ourselves, what more do we have to say to the fashion industry after 40 years at the top?,” said Dolce, 60, who holds the top job at the firm his brother Domenico and Stefano Gabbana founded in 1985.
Dolce Gabbana Holding Srl, which encompasses the group’s offerings in clothing, furnishing accessories and beauty, reported about €1.9 billion in revenue for the 12 months through March 2024, up 19% at constant exchange rates compared with the previous year, driven by an almost five-fold increase in beauty.
But the company’s earnings before interest and taxes are still just a fraction of its Italian rivals. Dolce Gabbana posted €4 million in Ebit at the end of the last financial year, compared with €1.28 billion for Prada on sales of €5.4 billion.
The jury is still out on the firm’s other big diversification bet, property and hotels.
“The success in beauty is a good testament of the brand strength,” said Luca Solca, a senior analyst at Bernstein. “I don’t think that hospitality/hotels will play a big role for them.”
The firm is seeking additional funding, including for its real estate ventures, which cover residences in Marbella, Spain, in Miami and in Dubai, as well as hotels in the Maldives and Saudi Arabia.
That’s another change in tack for a group that’s traditionally financed investments internally, Dolce said. A €300 million term loan that’s about 25% repaid dates back to 2022. The fashion house also has a €100 million working capital facility.
It’s now in talks with bank lenders for as much €150 million. A decision by those creditors is still on hold.
The diversification moves were prompted by what the CEO acknowledged was over-reliance on visitors to the Mediterranean, and the group’s post-Covid rebound was short-lived, he said.
The 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine shaved off more than €100 million from the top line, while sales to Chinese customers tumbled as the country’s economy dipped and consumer tastes shifted.
Still, Dolce insists his firm can thrive as an independent. “If the macroeconomic environment deteriorates further, we have our own properties, our warehouses and we can always cut ad spending, which is twice as high as our peers,” he said.
Dolce also remains adamant about not wanting outside investors, at least for now.
“We listen to everyone, investment banks, family offices, private equity firms,” the CEO said. “But our response is always the same, at the moment we’re not interested in opening our capital.”