Jonathan Anderson leaves Loewe after 11 years at creative helm

Jonathan Anderson is stepping down from creative control of LVMH’s Spanish brand Loewe after an 11-year run that has been seen as a transformational time for the label.

There’s no confirmation of where he’s going next, although rumours suggest it will be Dior. The praise heaped on him by Loewe owner LVMH and the fact that his signature label is also backed by the French luxury fashion giant suggests that might be true.

Just like the recent Demna appointment that saw him moving from Kering’s Balenciaga to its Gucci brand, it’s clear that luxury giants want to retain the talent that has had a huge impact on smaller labels when vacancies arise at bigger ones.

There’s no official vacancy at Dior’s womenswear ops, but the menswear job is up for grabs after Kim Jones recently stepped down from the helm there.

Neither Anderson nor LVMH have said anything about the speculation.

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Instead, the company on Monday talked of the growth it had enjoyed under Anderson and the international recognition it had enjoyed.

In a statement Loewe said: “Jonathan led us to exceptional growth and established the House as a pioneer in presenting a modern vision of luxury fashion and culture, underscored by an enduring commitment to craft.”

CEO Pascale Lepoivre also said he’s “incredibly grateful to Jonathan Anderson for the 11 years of unmatched creativity, passion and dedication that he has given to Loewe. With him as its creative director, the House has risen to new heights with international recognition. The Puzzle bag, celebrating its 10th anniversary, has become a true icon, and the brand codes that he has created, rooted in craft, will live on as his legacy.”

And LVMH’s Sidney Toledano said Anderson is among the best designers out there, contributing more than just his creativity and building “a rich and eclectic world with strong foundations in craft which will enable the house to thrive long after his departure”.

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Meanwhile the man himself — who was in December again named Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards in London —  added: “While reflecting on the last 11 years, I have been lucky enough to be surrounded by people with the imagination, the skills, the tenacity and the resourcefulness to find a way to say ‘yes’ to all my wildly ambitious ideas. While my chapter draws to a close, Loewe’s story will continue for many years to come, and I will look on with pride, watching it continue to grow, the amazing Spanish brand I once called Home.”

Loewe didn’t have a runway show at the recent Paris Fashion Week but opted for a dual-gender presentation that saw critics full of praise for what he’d achieved in the past 11 years.

And that achievement wasn’t just creative. While LVMH doesn’t share financial details about its smaller brands, back in October, Loewe had filed its results for 2023 and they showed a 62.5% rise in net profit to €207.3 million. That came as revenue grew by nearly 30%, reaching around €810.8 million, while its sales rose by 27.5% to €789.3 million. Analysts have estimated that sales for the almost-200-year-old label were over €1 billion in 2024.