Jil Sander has entered the premium perfume segment with Coty. The debut drop, following the extension of Jil Sander’s license deal with the US cosmetics giant, will feature a first set of six perfumes combining natural ingredients and high technology in minimalist unisex formulas.
The collection has been created by Berenice Watteau, Paul Guerlain, Nathalie Lorson, Mathilde Bijaoui and Julie Massé, five of the most talented emerging international perfume designers, overseen by the label’s creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier.
The guiding idea behind the new perfumes is to use only three principal raw materials: aldehydes as synthetic molecules, alcohol derived from recycled carbon emissions, and water. The scents have been formulated exclusively using these elements, and are liable to change colour over time without losing their olfactory features. Each perfume has a unique form and volume, thanks to the aldehydes’ olfactory traces embedded within the perfumes’ key natural ingredients.
Jil Sander Leaf is a fresh, electrifying scent, evoking a freshly picked Black Krim tomato, while notes of upcycled key lime, cardamom and Indian wild mint add a citrusy, sparkling tangerine liveliness. Jil Sander Miel is a blend of upcycled cedar wood, Madagascar vetiver and royal jasmine. With its smoky black leather scent, Jil Sander Black Tea is characterised by notes of osmanthus from China, upcycled cinnamon from Sri Lanka, and black tea. Jil Sander Earth is a combination of upcycled Damask rose extracts, Provence rose from Grasse, and patchouli leaves. Finally, Jil Sander Coffee features notes of coffee beans extracted with CO2 technology, upcycled iris, and Balsam of Peru from El Salvador.
The bottle used in the collection was created in collaboration with the Formafantasma design studio, which carried out lengthy experiments with an artisanal glass manufacturer, obtaining for each piece an organic, asymmetric shape, and a unique glass distribution. A bell-shaped white aluminium cap covers the entire bottle.
This premium perfume line developed with Coty marks a new milestone in Jil Sander’s expansion within the lifestyle sector. It follows the label’s recent debut in high-end jewellery, and paves the way for the exploration of new categories in future, creating opportunities in major beauty markets, including the Middle East. The label will notably open a new store in Dubai at the end of next month.
Jil Sander was founded in 1968, and was bought by Renzo Rosso‘s OTB fashion group in 2021. It is currently commercialised via 70 monobrand stores worldwide, as well as being available at over 300 select multibrand retailers.
Amazon.com is increasing its advertising on billionaire Elon Musk’s social media platform X, the Wall Street Journal reported on Thursday, citing people familiar with the matter.
The major shift comes after the e-commerce giant withdrew much of its advertising from the platform more than a year ago due to concerns over hate speech.
In 2023, Apple also pulled all of its advertising from X and has recently been in discussions about testing ads on the platform, the report said.
Several ad agencies, tech and media companies had also suspended advertising on X following Musk’s endorsement of an antisemitic post that falsely accused members of the Jewish community of inciting hatred against white people.
Monthly U.S. ad revenue at social media platform X has declined by at least 55% year-over-year each month since Musk bought the company, formerly known as Twitter, in October 2022. He had acknowledged that an extended boycott by advertisers could bankrupt X.
Musk has become one of the most influential figures following President Donald Trump‘s re-election. He now leads the Department of Government Efficiency, which aims to cut $2 trillion in government spending.
Italian luxury goods group Salvatore Ferragamo said on Thursday its revenue dropped by 4% at constant currencies in the fourth quarter, flagging “encouraging results” from its direct-to-consumer sales which were overall flat in the last three months of the year.
Sales in the North American region, which accounted for 29% of total revenue, were up 6.3% in the quarter. However, the Asia Pacific area saw a 25% drop in revenue at constant exchange rates.
The slowdown in global demand for luxury goods, especially in China, has made the group’s turnaround harder. Overall preliminary revenues reached 1.03 billion euros in 2024, in line with analysts’ estimates, according to an LSEG consensus.
“January shows an acceleration in our DTC channel’s growth, albeit supported by the different timing of the Chinese New Year and a favourable comparison base versus last year”, Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti said in a statement.
Spanish fashion and fragrance company Puig reported a 14.3% rise in fourth-quarter sales on Thursday, beating analyst expectations for the key holiday period.
The Barcelona-based company behind perfume brands Rabanne, Carolina Herrera and Jean Paul Gaultier said net sales for the three months to Dec. 31 were 1.36 billion euros ($1.42 billion), above the 1.30 billion euro average forecast from analysts polled by LSEG.
Puig, which generates most of its revenue from fragrance sales, is heavily reliant on the holiday season, with analysts estimating that nearly half of its prestige perfumes are sold in the quarter that includes Black Friday and Christmas.
The company, which also owns luxury skincare and make-up brands Byredo and Charlotte Tilbury, said full-year sales reached 4.79 billion euros ($4.99 billion), up 11% from 2023, surpassing its goal of increasing sales faster than the 6-7% forecast for the global premium beauty market.
The average of analyst estimates was for sales of 4.72 billion euros in 2024, given that it is less exposed to sluggish demand in China and that more than half of Puig’s revenue comes from Europe, the Middle East and Africa while 18% comes from the United States.
The 2024 performance of larger rivals such as Estee Lauder and L’Oreal was hampered by muted demand from China, where a property crisis and high youth unemployment have curbed consumer spending.
Puig said sales in its core fragrance and fashion business grew by 21% in the holiday quarter.
Sales in the make-up division fell 7.2%, with its Charlotte Tilbury brand affected by a voluntary withdrawal of select batches of Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray in December over what Puig described as “an isolated quality issue in a limited number of batches” detected during routine product testing.