If, as most people believe, the designers of Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier, are about to be replaced, they certainly have left Germany’s most famous fashion label on a high note.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
A bold blend of sharp tailoring, punchy effects, unusual material mixes, and urban chic was an admirable final collection in their tenure at Jil Sander, a house founded in Hamburg in 1973.
Staged in funeral black, with two narrow runways beneath black-curtained walls, in dim undertaker’s light, the mood and the collection were somber as one entered from a sunny Wednesday morning at Milan Fashion Week.
That said, the clothes often dazzled, from pink shard dresses to metallic silver plissé cocktails. The design duo’s big idea was plastic shard skirt dresses—cut like techy Pacific Island chic.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
In a co-ed show, the guys appeared in Edwardian coats and blazers bristling with cock feathers and biker leather suits in electric blue, while a series of coats for men and women featured ingenious degradé coloring, beginning in black and fading into bronze, then white at their high funnel necks.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
Considering that Jil Sander was once dubbed “the Queen of Less,” this felt like a very distant “More is More”—especially the shoes: hyper-studded and spiked winklepickers and brothel creepers. There was nothing minimal about them.
In truth, the house of Jil Sander has had an erratic history since the founder departed in 2004 after repeated clashes with then-owner Patrizio Bertelli of Prada. Ownership changed hands several times, including to a vulture fund, before being acquired by OTB and its chairman, Renzo Rosso, the Italian billionaire founder of Diesel, in 2021.
However, for several seasons now, Renzo Rosso has been openly expressing his desire to make Jil Sander into an Italian Hermès with an edge. This collection was far from that. Indeed, if one could fault Luke and Lucie Meier for anything, it was that the collection, with its sharp lines and exaggerated finishes, felt more targeted at critics than clients.
Three weeks ago, Rosso named Serge Brunschwig from Fendi as Jil Sander’s new CEO, underlining that change is on the way.
That said, the Meiers can leave Jil Sander with their heads held high, even if they took a long, rather mournful tour of the catwalk to some well-earned applause. Their seven-year tenure featured several excellent collections that were among the half-dozen best in fashion in certain seasons—no easy feat to achieve, rest assured.
For the future, the current favorite to replace them at Jil Sander is Daniel Lee of Burberry. Stay tuned as the career carousel that high fashion has become takes another turn.
Luxury cashmere fashion brand Wyse London has quickly appointed a new CEO, with Kara Groves taking up the key post. She replaces Suzy Slavid who has just returned to fashion retailer River Island as its trading managing director.
Kara Groves
However Slavid, who had been CEO of Wyse London for two years, will remain a non-executive director there.
Her replacement Groves will be responsible for driving the brand’s direct-to-consumer business in the UK while also spearheading further expansion in the US.
She brings over 15 years’ executive level experience having held senior roles with several premium/lifestyle brands.
Most recently, Groves was chief executive at chidrenswear brand Bambino Mio where she focused on the brand’s repositioning to reinvigorate growth.
Previous to that she was chief operating officer at womenswear brand Mint Velvet where she was charged with reshaping the brand’s store portfolio and heading international expansion.
Meanwhile, Groves also spent seven years at Joules, latterly as chief commercial officer until 2018, spearheading a threefold increase in turnover through an expansion of the lifestyle brand’s product offer across many routes to market, including the US.
Groves said: “What I find most rewarding is working with founder-led businesses – Marielle [Wyse] is a real inspiration and brings energy and life to so many creative aspects of the brand as well as a laser-focused attention to detail.”
She added: “Our mindset will remain customer centric – we deeply understand our loyal customer base and will continue to cultivate grow and evolve with her needs. We like to push boundaries and elevate wherever we can. We are looking forward to expanding our presence both here in the UK and in the US market.”
Conscious fashion brand Lucy & Yak is expanding its sustainability programme by taking its in-store Re:Yak workshops online to allow more customers to “return, recirculate and recycle their well loved Yaks”.
Lucy & Yak
Customers can now exchange old products for vouchers to spend either online or in any one of Lucy & Yak’s 11 UK stores.
Through the new online service, items will either be resold or upcycled and repaired by Lucy & Yak’s in-house experts. The mended items will be available for purchase through Lucy & Yak’s stores, online or at The Outlet in Castleford. There will also be limited one off items such as hand embroidered pieces from the Re:Yak Studio.
Lucy Greenwood, co-founder of Lucy & Yak, said: “When [we] launched… in 2017, we realised that, if we wanted to be truly circular, we had a responsibility for the lifecycle of anything we created, even after the customer has ownership of the piece.
“In 2023 we launched our first buyback scheme in our shops, which was a huge success and instantly highlighted the demand for an online presence. Now, rebranded as PreLoved, this has been a real passion project and I can’t wait to see it expand into further regions in the future.”
After a “transformative” fiscal 2024, Hammerson said Wednesday (26 February) the commercial property giant is now “repositioned to drive growth”. With key destinations in the UK, France and Ireland (including 10 city locations ranked in the top 20 of all retail venues across its geographies), it was “another record year” of leasing, up 56% and 13% over estimated rental value (ERV).
Bullring
Occupancy also improved to over 95%, with few leasable units in most locations, “driving rental tension across our portfolio”.In the year, 262 leases were signed on 1m sq ft of space generating annual headline rent of £41m, “another record performance” on a like-for-like basis.
It also described occcupier demand as “robust” with £8.6m of headline income already exchanged in 2025, 10% above previous passing rent and 11% ahead of ERV. There is also “good visibility and a strong pipeline for the remainder of 2025, underpinning our confidence in the outlook”, it stressed.
And performance in key trading periods stood out. It said Black Friday, Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve all saw year-on-year increases of 10-12% for all its flagship destinations. For instance, its Westquay mall had 112,000 visitors on the Saturday of Black Friday weekend, its highest number since November 2017.
There was also good footfall momentum to report in the final quarter, “reflecting new openings and seasonal events”, with UK footfall up 17% quarter-on-quarter, also up 16% in Ireland and by 5% in France. That meant hosting 170 million visitors across its destinations (+600,000).
Investment in its Bullring and Dundrum centres has also paid dividends, generating £184 million of rent “benefiting from [the] halo effect of repositioning”.
This included the repositioning of Cabot Circus and The Oracle in 2024, already securing £52 million of rent contracted. Investments will see marquee openings in 2025 such as M&S at Cabot Circus, and TK Maxx at The Oracle.
Rita-Rose Gagné, chief executive of Hammerson, said: ‘In landing the pivotal sale of Value Retail and completing our non-core disposals, we have generated £1.5 billion of cash proceeds over the last four years, materially strengthening our capital structure, and enabling investment for growth in our high-quality portfolio.
She added: “Cities are engines of economic growth, and we have concentrated our portfolio on exceptional assets in some of Europe’s fastest growing and most vibrant cities. The flight to quality where occupiers want fewer and more productive stores in only these locations, enables us to attract leading global and local brand partners.
“The physical experience has become more relevant for consumers and our brand partners, with at least 80% of all retail transactions touching a store.”
And its FY25 outlook? “We will see marquee openings in Cabot Circus and The Oracle as we bring major new uses to each of these assets, matching our experiences and building momentum at Bullring and Dundrum.
“We have already secured £8.6m of leases in 2025, the pipeline is robust, and discussions are progressing on other acquisitions.
“Notwithstanding the uncertainty in the macroeconomic environment, our portfolio is well positioned to drive rental growth and earnings from the high demand for scarce, relevant space where brands are consolidating.”