Frasers Group-owned Jack Wills has filed its results for the year to the end of April 2024 with the company hailing a “strong performance in terms of operating profit” despite the lower number of retail stores generating lower revenue.
But that doesn’t disguise the fact that there were some quite negative numbers in the report with the company pointing out that levels of profitability have declined primarily due to store closures. This resulted in falling sales and a decline in the gross profit margin with products being cut during closing-down sales. So profit both improved and declined.
So far so confusing, but let’s look at the actual figures. Revenue at the company fell to £19.1 million from £28.4 million largely due to the aforementioned lower number of stores during the year.
EBITDA on an underlying basis fell from a profit of £10.2 million to one of just £5.06 million. The net loss for the period was £31,000, compared to a net profit of £10 million the year before. The plunge came as pre-tax profit this time was £4.944 million but tax completely wiped that out with the company paying £4.975 million. This compared to only £114,000 in tax paid last year on a pre-tax profit of over £10 million.
The falling sales came, as mentioned, due to lower store numbers as the company operated only 24 stores during the year compared to 32 in the previous 12 months, with a total retail sales space of 42,000 sq ft, Down from 63,000 sq ft.
This also meant a headcount reduction with numbers falling from 233 to 135.
Jack Wills was bought out of administration by Frasers Group in 2019.
Despite the business contraction in the latest year, its owner has been working on expansion internationally. Nearly two years ago it signed a deal with Brand Machine Group (BMG) for a long-term licensing partnership. The partnership would see the group design, manufacturer, wholesale and distribute all product types and categories for the brand globally from AW23.
If anyone thought that Dries Van Noten stepping down from the label he founded would mean a period of it struggling to find its feet, the Puig-controlled company is doing everything it can to disabuse them.
The company has been announcing store opening plans (including a long-awaited London debut) and has also named insider Julian Klausner to the creative helm. And now it has launched a high-profile luxury e-tail offer in a link-up with both Net-A-Porter and Mr porter.
The exclusive capsule collection features six styles at Net-A-Porter and three at Mr porter (seen alongside the wider, curated Dries Van Noten collection the two e-tailers carry).
The company said the capsule “not only marks a key moment in Dries Van Noten’s evolution towards gender-fluid fashion but also celebrates the designer’s remarkable legacy, as he steps down from his role as creative director”.
While the SS25 runway presentation was officially a menswear show, select pieces were showcased on women, “reflecting the designer’s commitment to creating clothes that transcend traditional gender boundaries”.
So Net-A-Porter is offering ‘menswear’ styles, “including standout pieces in bold pinks and smaller sizing”.
It all combines tactile fabrics, from matte leathers to sheer textures, with a “dynamic” colour palette that spans neutrals and vibrant hues.
It’s not just luxury that’s been slowing in the past year. New Bain & Company research reveals that global consumer product sales growth slowed to 7.5% last year, down from 9.3% in 2023 and 9.8% in 2022, “as price hikes lost momentum and volume growth stagnated”.
‘Consumer goods’ takes in a huge range of everyday products and includes things like clothing and beauty. And we’re told that in developed markets, “growth fell even further to 4.5%, with consumer confidence still fragile — 80% of European and US consumers are cutting spending”. That was perhaps unsurprising as prices in the US and the European Union in late 2024 were more than 20% higher than in the first quarter of 2020. Volume growth was therefore driven by emerging markets (up 11%).
Bain also said that big brands were struggling and while “insurgent brands” captured up to 40% of US market growth, for instance, the 50 largest CPGs grew just 1.2% in early 2024.
The company believes that AI and digital transformation are key to changing this and “despite 90% of CPG executives recognising AI’s importance, only 37% prioritise it, and a mere 6% have a clear AI strategy”.
Richard Webster, head of its global Consumer Products practice, said: “As inflation recedes, it’s clear that the old, large-scale CPG growth model is not fully fit for the new normal that’s emerging. The industry is at a turning point and the traditional reliance on price-driven growth is no longer enough to sustain long-term growth. For those CPGs ready to embrace the opportunity, this is the time to sharpen their agendas and make strategic choices that will enable them to thrive in the generative AI era.”
Bain believes AI can help businesses maximise “current profit pools through superior execution and making bold portfolio moves that expand categories or open up new profit pools”.
It can also help to simplify portfolios and operations “to generate growth and find a distinctive focus for tomorrow’s business”.
The latest high-profile residency at the Selfridges Corner Shop on London’s Oxford Street is a big name — Emporio Armani — which will be there until 9 March.
It’s yet another transformation for what is one of the most in-demand spaces on Europe’s busiest dedicated shopping thoroughfare. The Corner Shop goes through multiple incarnation every year, at times being all about rock ’n’ roll maximalism (such as the Rolling Stones and Elton John iterations) to more calming experiential minimalism such as this Armani residency.
The space is inspired by the label’s Milan concept store at Manzoni 31 and comes as Giorgio Armani celebrates his 90th year with a series of events and business developments globally.
His Emporio label is having something of a moment and the new pop-up blends its signature minimalism-with-a-twist. Think flowers, glass, concrete, bamboo, chrome, white lighting and full-height screens with campaign imagery.
Product-wise, as of this week, shoppers can find the SS25 women’s and men’s collections plus season-spanning denim, accessories, and a curated book offer. The Armani/Dolci by Guido Gobino fine chocolates collection is also available, along with Armani/Dolci hot drinks and pastries.
The fit-out is clearly carefully thought out and looks more permanent than many pop-ups, replicating the Emporio Armani style strongly and giving visitors a good reason to drop in.