The 22nd edition of ITS, founded by Barbara Franchin in 2002, embraced this year’s theme, Borderless. The competition has solidified a new format, introduced last year, where all ten finalists automatically receive the ITS Creative Excellence Award 10x10x10. Among them, the jury gave Raynor a special mention, awarding him the ITS Jury’s Rewarding Honour. Patrick Taylor also stood out, winning the Modateca Deanna Prize and the Pitti Tutoring & Consulting Award.
Finalists and jury members ofITS 2025 – itsweb.org
Derbyshire-born Maximilian Raynor, 26, has lived in London for a decade and studied at Central Saint Martins before launching his label in 2022. His designs quickly gained industry attention, dressing celebrities. He debuted his first London runway show with an ITS grant in February.
His award-winning collection, praised by the jury, featured opulent sculptural pieces drawing inspiration from multiple historical eras. Each look embodied a character from an imaginary purgatory set in a haunted mansion—a surreal backdrop for his designs.
“I design my pieces as if they were costumes for a film, theater production, or novel. Storytelling is essential to my creative process,” said Raynor, who advocates for genderfluid fashion as a challenge to patriarchal norms.
Sustainability remains a core focus. Raynor sources recycled fabrics and employs zero-waste construction techniques. With experience at JW Anderson, he blends textures and materials, working with shredded tweeds sculpted into dramatic gowns, Victorian dresses mixing gingham patterns, and voluminous knitwear adorned with bells. He also experiments with leather, crafting bold outerwear, including a red military coat with metal stud embellishments.
Maximilian Raynor’s award-winning design – itsweb.org
Born in London, Patrick Taylor, 25, lived across Singapore and Dubai before settling in New York, where he graduated from Parsons School of Design. Passionate about textiles and knitwear, he merges these two worlds into a collection that fuses sportswear aesthetics with intricate knitting techniques. His vibrant, innovative silhouettes captivated the jury.
Taylor’s collection is inspired by his childhood memories, shaped by outdoor adventures with his siblings, often led by his sports-loving father. His key influences—skiing, and sailing—are reflected in his designs, which translate the movement and posture of these sports into fluid, dynamic garments.
Entirely knitted in merino wool, the collection also includes cotton-knit jeans that mimic denim’s texture. “I focused on comfort but also on the performative aspect of the garments,” said Taylor.
His designs include oversized knit T-shirts with asymmetrical sleeves, one dramatically extended to evoke the motion of a sail in the wind. His pants, shaped with forward-bending knee panels, mirror the stance of a skier in motion. The jury was particularly impressed by Taylor’s ability to blend nostalgia with technical precision, as well as the cozy, desirable appeal of his accessories.
Patrick Taylor’s standout creation – itsweb.org
Other finalists in this year’s competition included French designer Macy Grimshaw, who crafted paper dresses resembling true works of art, earning both the Swatch Prize and the Fondazione Sozzani Award. Chinese designer Zhuen Cai, known for integrating traditional craftsmanship with circular design methods, received a €5,000 scholarship from the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
Scholarships and industry recognition for all finalists
All ten finalists were awarded a €10,000 scholarship, a ten-day residency at the ITS Arcademy—a creative hub and the first museum dedicated to contemporary fashion—and the opportunity to exhibit their work there for ten months. Additionally, they participated in an exclusive industry visit and training day with the Italian fashion group OTB, founded by Renzo Rosso.
“We chose to forgo the traditional runway show and instead offer financial support to all the finalists. There are fewer of them, but each one walks away with €10,000. This shift represents a major change in how fashion competitions operate. The stress of competition is gone— instead, we create an environment that fosters collaboration and creative exchange,” said Barbara Franchin, who noted that the 2025 cohort bonded closely, even co-writing a manifesto on the future of fashion.
One of the defining themes of ITS 2025 was fashion’s ability to reflect emotional and physical suffering. Several designers explored how garments can serve as therapeutic expressions.
Among them, French designer Naya El Ahdab, awarded by Wrad, presented designs influenced by her experience with limited mobility since infancy. Meanwhile, Macy Grimshaw translated her grandmother’s battle with Alzheimer’s into delicate, memory-inspired paper dresses, symbolizing fragile yet enduring memories. “What was once kept inside is now being brought to the surface as a public conversation. This marks a true social evolution,” concluded Franchin.
In a major strategic change Dsquared2 has ended its long-time licensing agreement with Staff International, the key operating company of Italian fashion billionaire Renzo Rosso. Who, in turn, has already sued the designers in response.
Dean & Dan Caten, by Giampaolo Sgura
However, six hours after DSquared2 announced the termination of its long-time licensing agreement with Staff International, the licensor sued the fashion house for breach of contract. The conflicting statements suggest that this issue looks like becoming a major court battle pitting one of Italy’s largest fashion empires and one of Milan’s hottest runway brands.
“Dsquared2 Group announces the immediate termination of its licensing agreement with Staff International S.p.A. Consequently, the Group will assume direct control over the production and distribution of its Ready-to-Wear collections,” the Milan-based house said in a terse release Saturday.
“This transition takes effect immediately and will commence with the upcoming Pre-Collection Spring/Summer 2026 sales campaign,” added Dsquared2, which was founded by twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten over three decades ago.
Staff International is the key production wing of Only The Brave, the holding company of Rosso, which also owns Diesel, Marni, Maison Margiela and Jil Sander, as well as the manufauring license of Viktor&Rolf.
“Dsquared2 Group expresses its sincere gratitude to all those who have contributed to this collaboration and looks forward to fostering continued partnerships in the future,” the release added.
However, later Saturday, Rosso’s group responded forcefully: “Staff International reiterates its conviction that the license agreement is fully effective and confirms its intention to fully execute it until its natural expiry. Therefore, the company firmly rejects any possibility of early termination of the contractual relationship, and believes that legal conditions for early termination do not exist.”
“Staff International will continue to act with the utmost transparency and determination to protect its rights, honour its contractual commitments and safeguard its reputation, and reserves the right to take any further action,” it added.
The agreement – which is said to last 25 years, with Staff International dates back to 2002, and helped fuel the spectacular development of Dsquared2, the last runway brand in Milan to have grown into a major global fashion brand.
Born in Willowdale, Ontario, Dean and Dan Caten (Catenacci, originally) began their career path in fashion by moving to New York in 1983 to attend Parson’s School of Design. In 1991 they arrived in Italy where in 1994, after numerous collaborations with major fashion houses, they first staged their debut runway collection. It marked the first in a long line of runway extravaganzas that would capture the attention of journalists and buyers for their unique brand of fashion, music and theatre.
The Catens went on to build a multi-million dollar business. And to dress everyone from Madonna in her iconic western video clip, “Don’t Tell Me”, to Beyoncé for her Super Bowl performance. The duo also has an impressive range, all the way to dressing the four-time English Premiership Champions, Manchester City. And a great HQ, a former electric energy headquarters converted into office, show-space, inn, gym and rooftop restaurant with swimming pool. They have become one of the city’s great fashion institutions without ever losing the DNA of the Wild North. And famed for their ovations, where they take their bow in matching outfits – whether disco dragoons, Klondike trappers or matinee idols.
Leave it to the Canadian duo to stage an epic 30th anniversary show in Milan this past season, the cast marching out of a wrecked brick garage, or arriving in a series of mighty wheels. From armored personnel carriers and Ford Mustang convertibles to an all-silver DeLorean and a vintage Rolls Royce – all took turns arriving in the huge warehouse done up like a nightclub.
All of the Caten’s great archetypes got an outing. Mad saucy trapper girls in giant puffers and lots of legs; a trio of rockers with Kiss goth makeup but in three-piece suits; Klondike gold diggers off to an all-night rave; sexy vampy rock goddesses with bumster leather pants and fur coats with trains; and a beautiful black rodeo gal with mini cocktail made of bands of Western belts. Leading to the arrival with sirens of NYC police car, from which emerged a dominatrix leather police captain played by Brigitte Nielsen escorted two white collar criminals. You guessed it – Dean and Dan. Before, amid huge roars, JT and Doechii took the floor in a call and response duet surrounded by the entire cast.
Renzo Rosso’s fashion holding company OTB suffered a setback in 2024, seeing revenues fall 4.4 percent at constant exchange rates to 1.8 billion euros, recording EBITDA of 276 million euros and EBIT of 44 million euros. Retail (+7.4 percent), Japan (+16.3 percent) and North America (+13.3 percent) held up. Among the brands in the portfolio, Maison Margiela (+4.6 percent) and Diesel (+3.2 percent) performed positively.
In the past fiscal year, the Vicenza-based company sustained investments of 77 million euros, with a focus on the expansion of the retail network and major innovation projects.
The possible departure of DSqyared2 will be seen as a setback for Rosso, who has long praised the brand as a dynamic creative force. Like every season, Rosso sat front row at the 30thanniversary show in Milan on February 25th.
“Staff International will continue to act with the utmost transparency and determination to protect its rights, honour its contractual commitments and safeguard its reputation, and reserves the right to take any further action,” read the last paragraph in Rosso’s company statement.
In a major strategic change Dsquared2 has ended its long-time licensing agreement with Staff International, the key operating company of Italian fashion billionaire Renzo Rosso.
Dean & Dan Caten, by Giampaolo Sgura
“Dsquared2 Group announces the immediate termination of its licensing agreement with Staff International S.p.A. Consequently, the Group will assume direct control over the production and distribution of its Ready-to-Wear collections,” the Milan-based house said in a terse release Saturday.
“This transition takes effect immediately and will commence with the upcoming Pre-Collection Spring/Summer 2026 sales campaign,” added Dsquared2, which was founded by twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten over three decades ago.
Staff International is the key production wing of Only The Brave, the holding company of Rosso, which also owns Diesel, Marni, Maison Margiela and Jil Sander, as well as the manufauring license of Viktor&Rolf.
“Dsquared2 Group expresses its sincere gratitude to all those who have contributed to this collaboration and looks forward to fostering continued partnerships in the future,” the release added.
The agreement with Staff International dates back to 2002, and helped fuel the spectacular development of Dsquared2, the last runway brand in Milan to have grown into a major global fashion brand.
Born in Willowdale, Ontario, Dean and Dan Caten (Catenacci, originally) began their career path in fashion by moving to New York in 1983 to attend Parson’s School of Design. In 1991 they arrived in Italy where in 1994, after numerous collaborations with major fashion houses, they first staged their debut runway collection. It marked the first in a long line of runway extravaganzas that would capture the attention of journalists and buyers for their unique brand of fashion, music and theatre.
The Catens went on to build a multi-million dollar business. And to dress everyone from Madonna in her iconic western video clip, “Don’t Tell Me”, to Beyoncé for her Super Bowl performance. The duo also has an impressive range, all the way to dressing the four-time English Premiership Champions, Manchester City. And a great HQ, a former electric energy headquarters converted into office, show-space, inn, gym and rooftop restaurant with swimming pool. They have become one of the city’s great fashion institutions without every losing the DNA of the Wild North. And famed for their ovations, where they take their bow in matching outfits – whether disco dragoons, Klondike trappers or matinee idols.
Leave it to the Canadian duo to stage an epic 30th anniversary show in Milan this past season, the cast marching out of a wrecked brick garage, or arriving in a series of mighty wheels. From armored personnel carriers and Ford Mustang convertibles to an all-silver DeLorean and a vintage Rolls Royce – all took turns arriving in the huge warehouse done up like a nightclub.
All of the Caten’s great archetypes got an outing. Mad saucy trapper girls in giant puffers and lots of legs; a trio of rockers with Kiss goth makeup but in three-piece suits; Klondike gold diggers off to an all-night rave; sexy vampy rock goddesses with bumster leather pants and fur coats with trains; and a beautiful black rodeo gal with mini cocktail made of bands of Western belts. Leading to the arrival with sirens of NYC police car, from which a dominatrix leather police captain played by Brigitte Nielsen escorted two white collar criminals. You guessed it – Dean and Dan.
And amid huge roars, JT and Doechii took the floor in a call and response duet surrounded by the entire cast.
Renzo Rosso’s fashion holding company OTB suffered a setback in 2024, seeing revenues fall 4.4 percent at constant exchange rates to 1.8 billion euros, recording EBITDA of 276 million euros and EBIT of 44 million euros. Retail (+7.4 percent), Japan (+16.3 percent) and North America (+13.3 percent) held up. Among the brands in the portfolio, Maison Margiela (+4.6 percent) and Diesel (+3.2 percent) performed positively.
In the past fiscal year, the Vicenza-based company sustained investments of 77 million euros, with a focus on the expansion of the retail network and major innovation projects.
The departure of DSqyared2 will be seen as a setback for Rosso, who has long praised the brand as a dynamic creative force.
M&S Gemini, on Warrington’s Europa Boulevard, has reopened following a major 10-month makeover “to cater to a wider range of customer shopping missions”.
Reuters
Featuring a refreshed Cothing and Hsome area and enhanced Beuty department, the timely reopening features the brand’s SS25 collections across womenswear, menswear and kidswear. There are also neon-lit areas to spotlight “M&S customer-favourite collections” including Per Una and Autograph and Jaeger.
Third-party brand offers also include a dedicated Mamas & Papa’s section adjacent to kidswear while other highlights include an improved M&S Footwear selection with a spacious try-on area, plus in-store bra- and suit-fitting services.
The expanded Beauty department is home to all M&S’s third-party and own brands, including the Apothecary collection, while showcasing a range of Clinique, Benefit Cosmetics and Estée Lauder fragrance products.
Dedicated Beauty Advisors are on hand while there’s colleague support to offer styling advice, and a new option that allows customers to skip the queues and pay straight away in its store fitting rooms. The Click and Collect service is also available on all its online Clothing, Home and Beauty orders.