Bringing together 19 Italian manufacturers serving luxury brands, HModa now intends to create a transalpine network of experienced suppliers, into which it plans to invest “tens of millions of euros” in France. With this in mind, the HModa 126 site was inaugurated in Aubervilliers on December 10.
The HModa 126 showroom – MGFNW
Located at 126 rue des Fillettes in Aubervilliers, this 1,500-square-metre site was inaugurated in the presence of the town’s mayor and the President of the Seine-Saint-Denis departmental council. Previously operated by Nike Inc., which used it as a showroom, the site is a warehouse dating from 1880 that has been given a new lease of life to welcome its new occupant.
HModa has established itself in an area where Chanel, Hermès, Berluti, and Moynat have already set up operations. The industrial hub offers an on-site prototyping workshop, a training centre, and a research and archives centre designed to inspire visitors.
Visitors are also greeted by an imposing showroom spotlighting the creations and expertise of the industrial hub, with a wealth of shoes, coats, and dresses exploring combinations of materials.
Claudio Rovere, surrounded by Karine Franklet (Mayor of Aubervilliers), Guillaume Moukala (Cabinet Asterès) and Stéphane Troussel (President of the Seine-Saint-Denis departmental council) – MG/FNW
“We bring together companies producing ready-to-wear, footwear, leather goods, and textiles. So everything a designer or brand could want for their collection is here,” sums up president and founder Claudio Rovere. “We won’t be a brand, but we’ll always be at their service. And there is a natural complementarity between France, the world capital of creativity and luxury, and Italy, one of the most important manufacturing nations in the world.”
HModa’s aim is therefore to create, this time in France, a network of textile companies meeting the market’s various needs. The goal is to attract orders from major luxury houses which, although they have brought much of their production in-house, still prize the flexibility and responsiveness provided by an external partner, according to Claudio Rovere.
The prototyping workshop – MG/FNW
“We’re not going to limit ourselves to working with major brands or to imposing quantities; we also want to work with organisations and designers keen to push the boundaries of craftsmanship,” the executive further explains to FashionNetwork.com. “This helps support the development of tomorrow’s big names, and it is always beneficial for a manufacturer to take on new challenges in terms of creativity and innovation.”
Since May, HModa’s French operations have been led by Gilles Lasbordes, a well-known figure in both the French and Italian textile industries, having headed the Première Vision trade shows for a decade. For now, he is supported at 126 by a team of 10, which will gradually grow to around 30 as the company ramps up.
The prototyping workshop – MG/FNW
Founded in 2008, HModa’s 19 manufacturers account for around 2,300 craftspeople. Their combined turnover is expected to exceed €300 million in 2025. The industrial hub’s latest move was the acquisition, in July, of a 60% stake in Manrico S.p.A., an Italian specialist in luxury cashmere.
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Beware the march of the robots! The majority of routine retail tasks are set to be replaced by artificial intelligence (AI) by 2035, according to new data.
Artificial intelligence will have a huge impact on the retail sector – Photo: Pixabay
Nearly 60% of retail tasks across core functions could be augmented or automated by AI, according to a new report from law firm Eversheds Sutherland and research agency Retail Economics, seen by CityAM.
The report noted that UK retailers are set to spend a third of their budgets on AI-aligned tech next year to help allay concerns over rising costs, with 69% expecting to increase investment within two years.
While “the speed of this shift sets the UK among the most advanced global markets”, the report also warns that progress is “increasingly vulnerable to longstanding operational barriers”.
Andrew Todd, partner at Eversheds Sutherland, said: “AI will primarily handle routine and data-driven tasks, leaving more able to focus on strategy, creativity, judgement and customer engagement”.
Todd predicts that new specialist positions will emerge in the sector, while traditional roles “evolve” in the AI-influenced environment.
The report claims a host of analysts and pundits have predicted a rapid shift in working patterns. McKinsey, for example, has outlined “a partnership between people, agents, and robots”.
And the march towards A1 is already in high gear, as it highlights McKinsey’s claim that the number of adverts for jobs vulnerable to AI’s impact is down 38% compared to three years ago.
Richard Lim, CEO at Retail Economics, added that the next decade will “see a profound shift in how work is carried out across [retail].”
“Disruption will happen in waves as retailers test, learn and iterative generative and agentic AI technologies,” he added.
Cathcart London is set to bring British heritage menswear to the world stage next month, making its Pitti Uomo debut in Florence.
Cathcart London
Its appearance will be a “significant step in international expansion” for the 11-year-old family business, as the brand unveils its AW26 collection to international press and buyers across 13-16 January.
Director James Cathcart said: “Exhibiting at Pitti Uomo for the first time is a pivotal step for the brand and the market equally. Our goal has always been to excite, offering rare designs with honesty and integrity. Pitti is the ideal stage to present our classic British style to a new global audience.”
The AW26 collection will showcase eight distinct styles of tailored suit jackets all crafted from pure wool including flannel, worsted multi-stripe, and herringbone, headlined by the popular King Cole Double Breasted Jacket.
These are complemented by six styles of matching pure wool trousers, arriving in wide, classic and narrow heritage cuts. The collection is completed by double breasted and single breasted waistcoats, offered in four versatile colourways.
It also features six distinct knitwear styles, including the return of Fair Isle Jumper, Jazz Jumper and other original vintage inspired knits hand produced in England.
The workwear collection sees the return of the Deck Jacket and Battle Trousers, both made from 100% cotton corduroy, “offering a balance of sophisticated tailoring and versatile daily utility for the modern man”.
The outerwear range completes the collection, featuring three classic British heritage coat styles. These include a new Herringbone Ulster Coat crafted from luxury herringbone wool woven in Yorkshire, alongside returning favourites, the Polo Coat and the Mackinaw.
British premium brand Represent has unveiled its 22-piece ‘engLAnd’ ready-to-wear collection, which, as the title suggests, builds on the brand’s British heritage and its move into Los Angeles.
Represent
The launch also follows the “instant sell-out headwear capsule” earlier this year in collaboration with ’47 and therefore features the same handwritten script with typography “merging both a script and an old English style to create the now instantly recognisable engLAnd graphic”.
After being teased on Instagram by Represent founders George and Mike Heaton months ahead of the initial baseball cap launch, the capsule “became the most successful, fastest sell-through of the year”, they said.
So to meet the demand, Represent’s widening the engLAnd product offering with a curated selection of menswear and womenswear jersey apparel, footwear and accessories, “featuring the brand’s signature hand-distressed finish to give it an ‘LA vintage’-inspired look.
The range includes oversized hoodies, short- and long-sleeve T-shirts and joggers, while womenswear features cropped sweatshirts and baby tees, available in black, washed brown and flat white colourways.
The collection also sees the reappearance of the brand’s Realtree print, now in a washed white finish, featured on the long sleeve T-shirt, sweatshirt, baby tee and sweat pant silhouettes.
Accessories, of course, include the baseball cap, updated for Autumn/Winter in a monochromatic washed brown colourway, as well as a new beanie. The signature Represent HTN sneaker also receives a winter update, launching in premium black and brown Hairy Pony styles.
George Heaton added: “We knew the engLAnd design could be taken further since we first showed a piece of the headwear over a year ago, the progression came from a strong consumer response. This collection is really all about our brand DNA, it’s our heritage and inspiration, it’s our move to Los Angeles, that’s what it represents.”
The engLAnd AW25 collection launches on representclo.com, its flagship store in London, and stores in Manchester & Los Angeles.