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Isabel Marant discusses the courage it took to launch her brand at Paris event ‘We are French Touch’

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November 27, 2025

This Wednesday, the creative industries gathered at the Palais Brongniart in the heart of Paris. At the foot of its columns and beneath the paintings of the French city’s former stock exchange, the focus was on creativity, art, cinema, music, video games, and fashion- all viewed through the lens of entrepreneurship.

Edouard Benadava of The Independents and Lays, who organised the watch parties during the most recent Paris Fashion Week. – FNW

The 2025 edition of We Are French Touch, organised by Bpifrance, centred on the courage to create, to act, to drive projects forward, and to defend a cultural identity. This theme was explored through round-table discussions- notably on (Re)-made in France for fashion- workshops on export and the integration of AI solutions, and inspiring presentations by industry figures, creatives, musicians, as well as politicians, philosophers, doctors and, of course, entrepreneurs.

In these ten-minute talks, which allowed the large, youthful audience to digest ideas and skim across themes, discussions included collaborative bridges between fashion and artists- with a conversation between Danish designer Naja Munthe and Véra Kempf, co-founder of the digital art gallery Singulart- as well as a compelling talk by psychiatrist David Gourion, who argued that art should be part of the care pathway for people with depression.

On the fashion and luxury front, content creator Lays and Edouard Benadava, head of content and programming at The Independents, a group of creative and events agencies, presented the Watch Party initiative, which attracted several thousand people to the courtyard of La Caserne- a venue dedicated to the responsible fashion ecosystem in Paris’s 10th arrondissement- during the most recent Fashion Week. What began as an anti–fashion-system stance by the social-media critic evolved into a movement embraced by fashion enthusiasts and by players across the ecosystem who wanted to take part in these live streams- experienced like sporting fixtures and followed by a debate. There was courage in transforming a frustrated reaction and a naive initiative into a unifying, optimistic movement- one that looks set to continue in the seasons ahead.

Isabel Marant and Anouck Duranteau-Loeper
Isabel Marant and Anouck Duranteau-Loeper – FNW

Naivety was also a theme when Isabel Marant reflected on her journey alongside the brand’s managing director, Anouck Duranteau-Loeper. “I’ve needed a lot of courage throughout my career,” explained the designer, who launched the brand bearing her name thirty years ago and began her first project in the mid-1980s. “It took courage to create my own house on my own at 19… Although, at 19, it’s more a matter of carefree naivety. Just when you’re dreaming of creating all day long, you find yourself dealing with things you never expected, like accounting, bank loans, and chasing unpaid invoices.” For the designer, as she has gradually been able to rely on increasingly seasoned teams, courage has meant learning to trust and delegate and, in her creative role, getting back to work after each project. “We deliver four collections a year. It makes me feel like I’m taking my A-levels every four months. It’s exhausting and hugely instructive to tell myself each time, ‘I’ll bounce back.’ Sometimes it’s very hard to face the frustration of not achieving what you want to do with a collection. It’s also a driving force to go further the following season and keep moving forward.”

This progress has been made possible by nine years of working in tandem, and in trust, with Anouck Duranteau-Loeper. “As the head of a brand where the creative talent is present and is also the founder, the role is to ensure that this talent comes to light in the right places and in the best possible way,” she explains. “That means being the one to impose constraints- even, ultimately, the ‘killjoy.’ That’s where trust is essential. But courage is also about that trust. When Isabel tells me she believes in a project and that we really have to go for it, I listen, because she is the one who is supposed to have the vision. That’s what is specific to leadership in fashion. It’s a constant adjustment. It means putting your sense of strategic direction to the test against a determined creative talent- sometimes a little messy, and very present.”

Whether it’s organising innovative events, forging links between creative worlds or cultures, or making a fashion company succeed, the recipe seems above all to be having the courage to combine talents.

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New tariffs will hit UK small clothing firms hard – report

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January 20, 2026

The unpredictability involved in doing business with the US has come into sharper relief with the threat of new tariffs being applied to UK exports. And international delivery specialist ParcelHero said Britain’s small businesses “will be the first casualties of [President] Trump’s new Greenland tariff war”.

Donald Trump at the White House, Washington, D.C. (United States), 16 January 2026 – AFP

Any new tariffs come after extra duties were already imposed last year while the de minimis exemption was abolished.

In 2024, the UK exported around $828m-worth of textiles such as clothing to the US. Most of these products will have had a value of under $800 and that de minimis abolition will have had a huge impact. 

But even those business selling luxury goods that didn’t previously qualify for zero duties under the de minimis rule have been hit hard already. 

ParcelHero said that the UK currently has one of the most favourable US tariff rates of 10%, following a trade deal with the country, but “even so, a UK-made coat costing $800 is already likely to cost US shoppers at least an extra $80 (£60) more than it did at the beginning of 2025, assuming that the UK seller passed on all the tariff costs to their US customers. That may not be the only applicable tariff, however, as it could also attract a further tax depending on the item’s tariff code.”

With the new tariff threat just issued, from the beginning of February, “that same coat could cost American consumers around $960 due to the imposition of a further 10% tariff. More concerningly still, from June it could cost them more than $1,000, as February’s 10% tariff rises to 25%. UK specialist and family-run businesses will struggle to survive in the US market as American shoppers turn to cheaper products from elsewhere”.

Parcelhero thinks Trump’s tariff threat over Greenland will particularly impact small UK businesses — which are less able to absorb extra costs and to have the mega-marketing budgets to cement their desirability in consumers’ minds — disproportionately.

The company’s head of consumer research, David Jinks, said he “agrees with UK Prime Minister Keir Starmer that the imposition of new tariffs on the UK and seven other countries that oppose Trump’s plans to take control of Greenland is ‘completely wrong’.

“Many smaller UK exporters are already reeling from the impact of the 10% tariff imposed on the majority of UK products last year. On top of that came the axing of the US de minimis tariff exemption that previously enabled British goods valued at $800 (around £600) or under to enter America duty free. Britain’s SME manufacturers and exporters are likely to be the first casualties of Trump’s new tariff war. Many smaller UK companies may have to quit the US market entirely if the Greenland tariffs are imposed.

“The US is Britain’s largest single overseas market and in 2024, before Trump announced his ‘Liberation Day’ tariffs in April 2025, around 39,500 UK VAT-registered businesses exported goods to the US. Many of these are SME businesses and marketplace traders that are disproportionately affected by the new tariffs.”

And the company thinks that if the tariffs are applied, it will mean a wider move towards tariffs globally. “Whatever the ongoing impact of new US tariffs, the repeal of its de minimis rules and a potential tit-for-tat trade war over Greenland, we are inevitably looking at a period of continuing volatility and changes to US shipments,” Jinks added.

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Matalan’s Q3 and Christmas update shows return to sales growth

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January 20, 2026

Matalan is the latest big-name UK retailer to report on the Golden Quarter as well as the narrower festive season and it appears to have done well late last year.

It said that in Q3 (the three months ended 28 November) EBITDA was up 38% year-on-year “reflecting sales growth and market share gains”.

The fashion and homewares retailer said that pre-IFRS16 EBITDA jumped to £27 million during the quarter on the back of like-for-like sales growth of 2%, coupled with its ongoing focus on margin and efficiencies. This builds on the strong momentum delivered in H1 2026, with pre-IFRS16 EBITDA up 53% to £61 million in the financial year to date.

Its digital performance was “very strong” in Q3, with like-for-like sales up 11% and Black Friday delivering its strongest ever online sales day outside of the pandemic. That reflects the firm’s heavy investment in this channel of late and with a new native app due to launch later this year alongside a refreshed loyalty scheme, it’s clearly expecting the outperformance to continue. 

But its stores are a key part of its investment programme too and in particular, during Q3, its refreshed stores outperformed the wider estate by 12%. The company didn’t detail how the stores performed overall but did say that it plans to upgrade 40 more locations in its next financial year.

As for the nine weeks up to 2 January, like-for-like sales rose 1%, which is below the 2% recorded for Q3 but coming against a backdrop in which many retailers reported falls, it’s not a bad result.

Categories including women’s outerwear and men’s formalwear and sportswear performed particularly well and the retailer said it gained market share across both women’s and men’s in the period, “reflecting the renewed product offer and significant improvements in brand perception”.

Overall, it “outperformed the wider market in October through to December, delivering year-on-year sales growth ahead of peers”.

Executive chair Karl-Heinz Holland said: “Our business transformation continues to deliver tangible results, with another strong quarter of EBITDA performance, alongside a return to sales growth. This reflects our relentless focus on delivering better quality, style and value, underpinned by sustained investment in product, stores and digital. This has enabled us to outperform the market, despite a challenging trading backdrop. Looking ahead, we look forward to welcoming our new CEO next month and remain confident in the business delivering sustainable profitable growth.”

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Harrods buying chief hails Milan menswear’s ‘thoughtful luxury’

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January 20, 2026

With fashion weeks having kicked off in earnest this month, the world’s top buyers are gathering their thoughts about what they expect affluent shoppers to snap up come AW26 collections arriving in-store and Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at London’s Harrods, is among them.

Prada – Fall-Winter2026 – 2027 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Just back from the Milan menswear shows, he highlighted the importance of timeless fashion.

“Milan menswear has always lived between two opposing forces: Fashion with a capital ‘F’, and quiet luxury rooted in sartorial tradition and timelessness,” he explained. 

“This season, more than ever, the balance of the schedule leaned firmly towards the latter. The result was a Milan season defined by quality, cut, cloth and craft. There was a palpable sense that product integrity and the final customer were front and centre. Less noise, fewer theatrics—but a stronger, more coherent message around what modern luxury menswear looks like today: thoughtful, considered, and built to last.”

He hailed big names including Polo’s Purple Label, Zegna, Prada, Brioni and Dunhill both for the impact of the shows or presentations and the looks they included.

Zegna – Fall-Winter2026 – 2027 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“This season, the strongest ‘shows’ were the ones that felt complete: a clear point of view, real product conviction, and a wardrobe that moves the customer forward,” he said. “Ralph Lauren’s return to Milan brought scale and theatre, but crucially it was backed by wearable, elevated classics that translate beautifully across Polo through Purple Label.

“Zegna delivered that modern luxury sweet spot—quiet confidence, investment dressing, and a proposition built on longevity and wardrobe building rather than novelty.

“And Prada was Prada in the best way: intellectually sharp, slightly disruptive, and refreshingly anti-‘power uniform’—a collection that challenged the idea of what contemporary menswear authority looks like.

Longland thought the best presentation was Brioni “because it understood the moment: craftsmanship, ease, and a sense of journey—luxury that doesn’t shout, it lasts”.

But he also liked Dunhill, calling it “a masterclass in mood and restraint—an incredibly precise take on British elegance, with the kind of tonal sophistication that customers immediately understand”.

Giorgio Armani – Fall-Winter2026 – 2027 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

As for the season’s top trends so far. In tailoring, he noted “a confident split: either slouchy, relaxed tailoring (softened shoulders, easier proportions), or clean, slim, sharply tailored lines for the customer who wants refinement without volume. Prada and the broader conversation around modern tailoring really underlined this shift”.

He also thought co-ords and tonal dressing were significant with “head-to-toe dressing in shades of one colour now a key styling language—particularly in neutrals and ‘quiet’ hues. It reads modern, premium, and effortless”.

Colour-wise, Longland called out the colours of nature: greens, greys, browns—earthy, mineral, and outdoors-referenced tones “that feel calm, grounded, and timeless”.

And as for materials, leather nd suede were crucial and could be found “everywhere in a more refined register—often softer, more tactile, and less overtly aggressive. It’s about texture, depth and longevity rather than statement”.

On the key item front, Longland’s backing bomber jackets that have “continued to evolve—less ‘street’, more luxury wardrobe essential: cleaner finishes, elevated fabrics, and styling that works over tailoring as easily as with casual trousers”.

And he sees a jacket or coat in “beautifully supple suede, ideally in chocolate brown or charcoal” as a “must-have” for the season. Why? “It perfectly encapsulates the season’s mood—luxurious yet understated, timeless yet modern, and endlessly versatile within a contemporary wardrobe”.

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