British eyewear specialist InSpecs has updated on trading for 2024 ahead of its annual results due in April and said that both sales and EBITDA fell. But the update overall was mixed with some bad news and some good.
The company, which has its own brands as well as licenses for Barbour, Joseph, Radley, Superdry, Temperley and Viktor&Rolf, among others, had previously issued a downbeat update in December. And on Thursday it said last year’s revenue fell to £200.5 million from £203.3 million with underlying EBITDA of £17.5 million, down from £18 million.
But revenue in the second half did manage to rise by 5.9%, reaching £97.5 million and the gross profit margin increased to 51.4% from 50.9%, while it also reduced its net debt excluding leases from £24.2 million to £22.9 million.
Also on the plus side the integration of its US business completed in 2024 and it’s now fully amalgamated, while the new facility in Vietnam is fully operational, “with promising enquiries to utilise their enlarged manufacturing capacity”.
And while annual revenue as a whole fell, on a constant currency basis, it increased by £2.3 million to £205.6 million. And although it expects underlying EBITDA to fall, it’s targeting revenue growth for this year together with improving its EBITDA margin.
CEO Richard Peck said: “Whilst total revenue and underlying EBITDA for the group in 2024 was behind our original expectations, revenue growth was achieved in the second half of the year. I am also pleased that the group increased its gross profit margin for the full year.
“During the period, we continued to focus on our operational efficiencies and, despite the inflationary pressures experienced in 2024, our operational costs have remained flat. The group has also reduced net debt while investing in significant additional manufacturing capacity which is now operational, following the successful completion of construction in Vietnam.
“2025 has started well and our key objectives for the year are to raise the group’s revenue and increase our underlying EBITDA margins while continuing to reduce our net debt.”
There are going to be quite a few contenders for the ‘best year ever’ winner in the shopping centre category. Entering the field is Caledonia Park, Scotland, with the premium designer outlet village’s owner/operator Railpen saying it experienced a “record-breaking year for sales and performance” in 2024.
The path to success was helped by the destination introducing seven new brands and securing a series of long-term renewals, “demonstrating the success of [our] strategic asset management”.
Surpassing 2023 levels, footfall rose 8%, “underlining the impact of its targeted leasing strategy tailored to evolving consumer demands” and standout categories included Health and Beauty, which saw a “staggering sales growth of 26%”. It said this was bolstered by the continued success of Rituals.
Also, the Black Friday weekend was “particularly successful” with a 19.1% uplift in sales vs the same period last year.
Last year’s key arrivals included Ben Sherman, which opened its first outlet location in Scotland there at the end of last year, taking a 1,500 sq ft space adjacent to fellow Scottish outlet debutant Moss, which recently opened its refurbished store, and kate spade new york.
The venue’s “targeted and considered leasing strategy” also resulted in several lease renewals for long-standing tenants, including Polo Ralph Lauren, who has now committed to another five years at the destination, as well as Berghaus, and Levi’s, “signifying appeal for both brands and visitors across the country”.
Maria Averkina, asset & development manager at Railpen, said: “2024 has been a standout year for us as we remain strong in our position as the go-to place for outlet debuts in Scotland.
“[The] record footfall and sales, [puts] us on a positive trajectory as we kick off 2025, and our portfolio of brands is continuing to excel, catering to our visitors tastes. Our focus will remain on supporting existing tenants as well as attracting new ones, with several discussions already under way with leading retailers.”
American lifestyle and accessories brand Cole Haan announced on Thursday the opening of its third New York City location.
Located at the corner of 5th Avenue and 19th Street in the historic Flatiron District, the 1,622-square-foot store offers an immersive shopping experience for customers to explore Cole Haan’s diverse collections across lifestyle, sport, and dress categories.
Housed within a 1904 neo-Renaissance landmark building, the new store boasts floor-to-ceiling windows that flood the space in natural light. Design elements, including herringbone wood flooring, mosaic tiles, aged iron chandeliers, and custom-built shelving, create an inviting atmosphere that bridges the brand’s heritage with its forward-thinking approach. Completing the space is artwork throughout the store including macro photography of the iconic Flatiron Building.
“New York has long been a key and successful market for Cole Haan, and we’re excited to open a new store in this vibrant city in the iconic Flatiron District,” said Jack Boys, CEO of Cole Haan.
“This next step in our brand and retail journey offers a unique opportunity to engage with both long-time and new customers allowing us to share our most innovative products and classic designs in one of the world’s most inspiring neighborhoods.”
The store opens with Cole Haan’s Spring 2025 collection. Customers will find new products in Men’s including the OriginalGrand Energyweave Oxfords, alongside best-selling styles. In women’s, new styles include the Georgie Ballet and Graclyn MaryJane Ballet Flats, as well as the Carolyn Foldover Tote in the handbag category.
Cole Haan currently operates over 500 stores in nearly 100 countries worldwide.
Five years down the line, how’s Brexit been for British fashion retail sales? Pretty much a disaster, according to the updated ‘Brexit to Breakthrough – Market Expansion for UK Brands’ report by Retail Economics and software company Tradebyte.
British retail sales to the European Union have not only dropped by a staggering £5.9 billion since Brexit, clothing exports have been hit the hardest, falling by over 60% from £7.4 billion in 2019 to £2.7 billion in 2023.
Apparel has been supplanted by Health and Beauty (plus electricals, DIY and gardening) becoming the top exporters in non-food retail, now making up three-quarters of UK retail exports to the EU.
Meanwhile, the value of non-food retail exports has fallen by almost 18% since 2019, despite hefty inflation softening the decline, the report notes.
Additional trade frictions caused by Brexit-related complexities such as increased logistics costs, customs complexities, and regulatory hurdles, “are curtailing international online retail opportunities for UK-based brands and retailers (worth an estimated £322.6 bn to EU economies)”, it also said.
Any good news? Despite these setbacks, online marketplaces have emerged as vital platforms for UK brands to regain ground in the lucrative European e-commerce market. Online marketplaces now account for at least £133bn (40%) of EU e-commerce.
“Five years after Brexit, UK retailers are still navigating its long-term effects, particularly when it comes to trading with EU consumers. Many have experienced a significant drop in trade flows, making it harder to maintain connections with key European markets,” said Richard Lim, CEO, Retail Economics.
“For brands looking to expand internationally, digital marketplaces have become an essential lifeline, providing a practical route to reach global audiences while overcoming complex trade barriers. By embracing these platforms, retailers can mitigate some of the challenges posed by Brexit and refocus on growth opportunities in an increasingly competitive global market.”
Alexander Otto, head of corporate relations at Tradebyte, added: ”Brexit has transformed the UK retail landscape, creating significant obstacles for UK brands and retailers aiming to expand in Europe, and making it far harder for them to tap into the flourishing EU e-commerce market.
”Online marketplaces now represent a platform for innovation and a scalable, low-risk path to reach affluent and younger EU consumers across a range of markets. They have emerged as crucial platforms to offset the challenges of Brexit and offer vital growth drivers in a competitive global market.”