You don’t have to be a big corporation to be relevant in the fashion industry. That is the mantra that seems to guide Oslo Runway since its birth a decade ago. The catwalk — with the Norwegian capital and its rich heritage, culture, and nature as a backdrop — celebrated its first 10 years of existence from August 25 to 30. During these days, and through a comprehensive and carefully planned program, the city showcased the talent and creativity of its brands, both established and emerging, utilising a hybrid format that combined fashion shows, presentations, pop-ups, and talks.
Pia Tjelta showcased her designs with a fashion show-performance at the Nationaltheatret in Oslo. – Ole Martin Halvorsen, Oslo Runway
“Oslo Runway started 10 years ago with a bold vision: to showcase Norwegian fashion on a professional level and do something we would be proud of on an international level. And that’s pretty bold,” said Elin O. Carlsen, CEO of Oslo Runway, at the opening ceremony. “Now that we have travelled to different fashion cities, we see that people want to come, join our culture, and see our designers. This platform promotes creativity, craftsmanship, and collaboration.”
She also pointed to the creative ecosystem now surrounding the event, with stylists, photographers, consultants, and creators reinforcing the industry.
“In terms of growth, the numbers speak for themselves. From 2015 to date, the total turnover of our top fashion and lifestyle brands has increased by 1,100%. This proves the vision, resilience, and entrepreneurial drive behind this industry,” added Elin Kathrine Saunes, president and CEO of Norwegian Fashion Hub. “The government’s recent export initiative confirms that Norwegian fashion is a value-generating industry.”
Oslo boasts fashion, nature and cultural heritage
Under a bright sun that seemed to conspire with the organisation to seduce both national and international attendees — in its tenth edition, the runway show invited international press, buyers, and distributors from key markets for Norwegian fashion, such as Japan — Oslo Runway kicked off its anniversary on Monday, August 25, with an opening ceremony aboard a Brim Explorer ship and in collaboration with the jewelry firm Josephine Studio. Sailing through the Oslo Fjord, the runway made a statement of intent: “This is who we are, and this is what we can offer to the fashion world.”
A moment from the Pearl Octopuss.y fashion show at the Munch Museum in Oslo. – Oslo Runway
The second highlight of the first day was a fashion show on Monday afternoon at the Munch Museum in Oslo. The imposing building, inaugurated in 2021 and designed by Spanish architect Juan Herreros, began construction in 2015. It houses more than 26,000 works by the Norwegian expressionist painter Edvard Munch, author of “The Scream” and “The Sun.”
The latter was precisely the inspiration for the “Solen” collection by Pearl Octopuss, which includes jewellery, accessories, handbags, and statement garments such as blazers. “The Sun,” and the aptly named Monumental Room that hosts it, served as the backdrop for the collection’s spring-summer 2026 debut, accompanied by live electronic music performed by Gundelach.
Hoops, oversized pearls, orange-toned pieces, and accents that echoed a sunset — including fringe detailing on bags, buttons, and belts — created a fusion of visuals and sound, resonating with the massive artworks in the room and the musical ambience.
Later that evening, Pearl Octopuss.y was awarded the Oslo Runway Tribute Award at the catwalk’s anniversary dinner. This prize recognises exceptional contributions to Norwegian fashion and has previously gone to Livid (2021), Tom Wood (2022), Envelope1973 (2023), and Norwegian Rain (2024).
Long live Nordic minimalism
If the first day of Oslo Runway focused on Norway’s breathtaking nature and the legacy of one of its most famous artists, the second day brought a more intimate mood.
Envelope1976, minimalism by flag – Ole Martin Halvorsen, Oslo Runway
Envelope1976 showcased its designs in a stark minimalist space, where stools were practically the only décor — aside from the morning sun illuminating the clean tailoring. The brand’s sharp, earth-toned silhouettes spoke for themselves.
“We are minimalists with a distinctive touch. With this collection, we aimed to return to our roots and revive some of our signature pieces. Tailoring is essential to our brand, and we added new colours to designs that have been with us for several seasons,” explained Celine Aagaard, co-founder of Envelope1976 with Pia Nordskaug.
Satin, leather, and shearling featured heavily in the lineup, alongside reversible designs and layered looks. “For all the suits, we use Italian wool. We produce in Istanbul with the same supplier we’ve worked with since the beginning. Some fabrics are made there, while others are made in Italy. The shearling comes from China, the leather from India, and our swimsuits — though not shown today — are made in Portugal,” Aagaard said.
At its headquarters, with the hum of sewing machines setting the tone, ESP presented its fifteenth collection, combining spring-summer 2026 garments made from deadstock with a capsule of locally recycled wool.
A moment from the ESP fashion show. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway
“Through NF&TA’s ‘Innovating Norwegian Wool’ project, and in collaboration with Norsk Tekstilgjenvinning, Selbu Spinneri, and Gudbrandsdalen Uldvarefabrikk, ESP developed the first Norwegian recycled wool textile with a fully local value chain. Partnering with Manufacture Oslo, these textiles are turned into garments that combine innovation and tradition,” read the show notes. The result was a gender-inclusive selection of jackets, coats, and outerwear featuring deep lapels and waist ties, all in navy, grey, and brown — styled with football boots, including cleats.
In the inner courtyard of its offices, surrounded by red-brick buildings with an industrial past, Camila Pihl debuted her spring collection. Suede jackets, denim staples, and cotton shirts anchored the lineup. Founded in 2018 by its namesake entrepreneur, the brand now operates four stores in Oslo, Bergen, and Trondheim, and is sold in 125 multi-brand outlets, 25 of which are located abroad. It expects to surpass NOK 100 million (€8.5 million) in sales by 2025.
Christian Aks — guided by the concept of “sculpted simplicity for the modern closet” — presented “Tide,” inspired by the stillness and strength of the sea. Soft and structured pieces in silk organza, cotton, and textured sheepskin captured that duality.
Christian Aks fashion show in Oslo – Elisabeth Heier, Oslo Runway
In a more urban key, F5 Collections (also featuring a live musical performance) added a more urban feel, showcasing printed pieces — including Vichy and Klein blue — that broke from the prevailing minimalist aesthetic. A live musical performance rounded out the show.
Cohmé Atelier and Wilhelmina, selected for the Oslo Runway NEXT program, took to the catwalk with glittering designs. Cohmé embraced 1930s cabaret glam with sequins and vintage silhouettes. Pia Tjelta closed the evening with a performance at the Nationaltheatret, revealing a collection of romantic satin gowns, embroidered lace dresses, and velvet pinstripe suits, all set against the grandeur of the ceiling paintings.
From timeless basics to knitwear as national pride
On day three, the official fashion shows wrapped with a celebration of refined wardrobe staples. Julie Josephine presented her famously crisp basics in a gallery, accompanied by shirts and tees worn by clients for over nine years — still in perfect condition.
Kari Traa transformed Ekebergparken into her catwalk. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway
In Ekebergparken — a hilltop park filled with sculptures — Kari Traa brought bold colour to a grey morning. The sportswear brand founded by the Olympic skier incorporated shades of pink into its performance layers, leggings, down jackets, and heavy wool sweaters. Wool and knitwear are national icons in Norway, and Traa offered a modern, functional twist.
Ella & Il returned to clean lines and natural textures for its first show at Oslo Runway. The spring-summer 2026 presentation included resortwear, fringe details, sage knits, and linen pieces. Woodling also focused on knitwear, showcasing alpaca wool and 3D knits in butter-yellow — a shade still trending for spring — across long dresses, mini skirts, and sheer tops.
Woodling’s delicate knitted designs, – Oslo Runway
Wilhelmina’s deconstructed pieces and Hartlino’s 2026 eveningwear followed. Mads Søreide, now design lead at Hartlino and founder of Cohmé, created polished silhouettes: sequined gowns, strapless styles, and men’s velvet blazers paired with satin shirts.
The official presentations closed with a dinner hosted by O.A.D. outside the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. The knitwear brand, rooted in Devold of Norway (est. 1853), honours its textile legacy with Norwegian wool, yak, cashmere, and mohair. While production is centred in Italy, the brand is expanding its made-in-Norway range, including hats and mittens.
“We’ve focused on consolidating in Norway. We distribute through 25 stores nationally and sell online across Europe. Now, we’re expanding abroad — entering stores in Denmark and Switzerland. With 45% growth this year, we’re building a future-proof company,” said CEO Marianne Strand.
The knitwear, a national emblem, is O.A.D.’s raison d’être. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway
A decade that has also transformed the city
The 10 years since Oslo Runway launched have also seen the city undergo significant evolution. In addition to architectural landmarks like the Munch Museum, Oslo’s Promenaden district has emerged as a retail hub — stretching from Akersgata to Karl Johans Gate.
“Over the past decade, we’ve focused on building not just a district, but a fashion community in Oslo,” said Anette Lund, CEO and portfolio director of Promenaden Oslo. “At first, international brands asked where Oslo even was. That’s no longer the case.”
She continued, “Bringing luxury brands here took years of planning, dialogue, and persistence. It’s changed how Oslo is perceived globally. Today, it’s one of the most visible new fashion cities — and that visibility fuels growth and recognition for Norwegian fashion.”
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Matalan is the latest big-name UK retailer to report on the Golden Quarter as well as the narrower festive season and it appears to have done well late last year.
It said that in Q3 (the three months ended 28 November) EBITDA was up 38% year-on-year “reflecting sales growth and market share gains”.
The fashion and homewares retailer said that pre-IFRS16 EBITDA jumped to £27 million during the quarter on the back of like-for-like sales growth of 2%, coupled with its ongoing focus on margin and efficiencies. This builds on the strong momentum delivered in H1 2026, with pre-IFRS16 EBITDA up 53% to £61 million in the financial year to date.
Its digital performance was “very strong” in Q3, with like-for-like sales up 11% and Black Friday delivering its strongest ever online sales day outside of the pandemic. That reflects the firm’s heavy investment in this channel of late and with a new native app due to launch later this year alongside a refreshed loyalty scheme, it’s clearly expecting the outperformance to continue.
But its stores are a key part of its investment programme too and in particular, during Q3, its refreshed stores outperformed the wider estate by 12%. The company didn’t detail how the stores performed overall but did say that it plans to upgrade 40 more locations in its next financial year.
As for the nine weeks up to 2 January, like-for-like sales rose 1%, which is below the 2% recorded for Q3 but coming against a backdrop in which many retailers reported falls, it’s not a bad result.
Categories including women’s outerwear and men’s formalwear and sportswear performed particularly well and the retailer said it gained market share across both women’s and men’s in the period, “reflecting the renewed product offer and significant improvements in brand perception”.
Overall, it “outperformed the wider market in October through to December, delivering year-on-year sales growth ahead of peers”.
Executive chair Karl-Heinz Holland said: “Our business transformation continues to deliver tangible results, with another strong quarter of EBITDA performance, alongside a return to sales growth. This reflects our relentless focus on delivering better quality, style and value, underpinned by sustained investment in product, stores and digital. This has enabled us to outperform the market, despite a challenging trading backdrop. Looking ahead, we look forward to welcoming our new CEO next month and remain confident in the business delivering sustainable profitable growth.”
With fashion weeks having kicked off in earnest this month, the world’s top buyers are gathering their thoughts about what they expect affluent shoppers to snap up come AW26 collections arriving in-store and Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at London’s Harrods, is among them.
Just back from the Milan menswear shows, he highlighted the importance of timeless fashion.
“Milan menswear has always lived between two opposing forces: Fashion with a capital ‘F’, and quiet luxury rooted in sartorial tradition and timelessness,” he explained.
“This season, more than ever, the balance of the schedule leaned firmly towards the latter. The result was a Milan season defined by quality, cut, cloth and craft. There was a palpable sense that product integrity and the final customer were front and centre. Less noise, fewer theatrics—but a stronger, more coherent message around what modern luxury menswear looks like today: thoughtful, considered, and built to last.”
He hailed big names including Polo’s Purple Label, Zegna, Prada, Brioni and Dunhill both for the impact of the shows or presentations and the looks they included.
“This season, the strongest ‘shows’ were the ones that felt complete: a clear point of view, real product conviction, and a wardrobe that moves the customer forward,” he said. “Ralph Lauren’s return to Milan brought scale and theatre, but crucially it was backed by wearable, elevated classics that translate beautifully across Polo through Purple Label.
“Zegna delivered that modern luxury sweet spot—quiet confidence, investment dressing, and a proposition built on longevity and wardrobe building rather than novelty.
“And Prada was Prada in the best way: intellectually sharp, slightly disruptive, and refreshingly anti-‘power uniform’—a collection that challenged the idea of what contemporary menswear authority looks like.
Longland thought the best presentation was Brioni “because it understood the moment: craftsmanship, ease, and a sense of journey—luxury that doesn’t shout, it lasts”.
But he also liked Dunhill, calling it “a masterclass in mood and restraint—an incredibly precise take on British elegance, with the kind of tonal sophistication that customers immediately understand”.
As for the season’s top trends so far. In tailoring, he noted “a confident split: either slouchy, relaxed tailoring (softened shoulders, easier proportions), or clean, slim, sharply tailored lines for the customer who wants refinement without volume. Prada and the broader conversation around modern tailoring really underlined this shift”.
He also thought co-ords and tonal dressing were significant with “head-to-toe dressing in shades of one colour now a key styling language—particularly in neutrals and ‘quiet’ hues. It reads modern, premium, and effortless”.
Colour-wise, Longland called out the colours of nature: greens, greys, browns—earthy, mineral, and outdoors-referenced tones “that feel calm, grounded, and timeless”.
And as for materials, leather nd suede were crucial and could be found “everywhere in a more refined register—often softer, more tactile, and less overtly aggressive. It’s about texture, depth and longevity rather than statement”.
On the key item front, Longland’s backing bomber jackets that have “continued to evolve—less ‘street’, more luxury wardrobe essential: cleaner finishes, elevated fabrics, and styling that works over tailoring as easily as with casual trousers”.
And he sees a jacket or coat in “beautifully supple suede, ideally in chocolate brown or charcoal” as a “must-have” for the season. Why? “It perfectly encapsulates the season’s mood—luxurious yet understated, timeless yet modern, and endlessly versatile within a contemporary wardrobe”.
The Who’s Next trade show, held in Hall 7 of the Parc des Expositions (Paris XV) from January 17 to 19, put accessory brands centre stage. Eyewear, jewellery of every kind, bags, mittens, and headwear – buyers were spoilt for choice. Among these brands, a few caught the eye of FashionNetwork.com.
Italian Okkia and its affordable eyewear
Founded in 2016, this Italian brand specializes in affordable eyewear. – Okkia
Founded in 2016, Okkia is an Italian brand offering affordable eyewear, from prescription frames to sunglasses. It is exhibiting at Who’s Next for the first time, with ambitious international plans. Its attractive pricing — €25 for prescription glasses, €27 for sunglasses and €40 for both — helped it sell one million units in 2025. Already widely distributed across Europe, the brand is also present in the United States, several Latin American countries, Turkey and the Maldives. It now aims to establish itself in countries such as Australia, where it is not yet present, and to strengthen its global footprint. This year will see the launch of two new lines for Okkia, as well as a collaboration with Italian designer Seletti.
Lumielle Aurora 1896 holds umbrella licences for a number of brands, including Agnès b. – Lumielle Aurora 1896
Japanese premium umbrella brand Lumielle Aurora 1896 marked its second appearance at the show, having made its debut last September. The brand is seeking a foothold in European stores — a strategy only recently set in motion — but is, for now, hampered by its pricing. Made in Japan from textiles produced in-house in the Niigata region, these umbrellas, with wooden or bamboo handles, have so far found limited traction in Europe. Lumielle Aurora 1896 has, therefore, developed a more affordable line, presented at the show alongside parasols for hot weather. Aurora has also owned Tokyo Hat since 2007, a brand of caps and other headwear featured across several stands. With a more contemporary offer, Tokyo Hat hopes to win over retailers with a younger clientele and a taste for creative fashion.
The timeless Le Béret Français and Le Bonnet Français
Le Béret Français regularly benefits from French lifestyle trends – Le Béret Français
Le Béret Français and its recently acquired subsidiary, Le Bonnet Français, were also in attendance this January. Le Béret Français, which holds the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) label, aims to maintain its positive growth trajectory, particularly buoyed in recent years by the Rugby World Cup in France and the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. With €1 million in annual sales, the company nevertheless faces strong competition from other brands, whose product quality is not always on a par with its own, made in Bayonne from French wool. Even so, Le Béret Français can boast sales to a wide range of partners, including department stores, milliners and even museums, whose end consumers are very diverse.
Who’s Next also boasted a broad line-up of exhibitors, including Naked Wolfe and its colourful shoes, Zen Collective and its Buddhist bracelets, and Hinterveld and its thick mohair scarves.