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How Oslo Runway placed Norwegian fashion on the global stage

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 1, 2025

You don’t have to be a big corporation to be relevant in the fashion industry. That is the mantra that seems to guide Oslo Runway since its birth a decade ago. The catwalk — with the Norwegian capital and its rich heritage, culture, and nature as a backdrop — celebrated its first 10 years of existence from August 25 to 30. During these days, and through a comprehensive and carefully planned program, the city showcased the talent and creativity of its brands, both established and emerging, utilising a hybrid format that combined fashion shows, presentations, pop-ups, and talks.

Pia Tjelta showcased her designs with a fashion show-performance at the Nationaltheatret in Oslo. – Ole Martin Halvorsen, Oslo Runway

“Oslo Runway started 10 years ago with a bold vision: to showcase Norwegian fashion on a professional level and do something we would be proud of on an international level. And that’s pretty bold,” said Elin O. Carlsen, CEO of Oslo Runway, at the opening ceremony. “Now that we have travelled to different fashion cities, we see that people want to come, join our culture, and see our designers. This platform promotes creativity, craftsmanship, and collaboration.”

She also pointed to the creative ecosystem now surrounding the event, with stylists, photographers, consultants, and creators reinforcing the industry.

“In terms of growth, the numbers speak for themselves. From 2015 to date, the total turnover of our top fashion and lifestyle brands has increased by 1,100%. This proves the vision, resilience, and entrepreneurial drive behind this industry,” added Elin Kathrine Saunes, president and CEO of Norwegian Fashion Hub. “The government’s recent export initiative confirms that Norwegian fashion is a value-generating industry.”

Oslo boasts fashion, nature and cultural heritage

Under a bright sun that seemed to conspire with the organisation to seduce both national and international attendees — in its tenth edition, the runway show invited international press, buyers, and distributors from key markets for Norwegian fashion, such as Japan — Oslo Runway kicked off its anniversary on Monday, August 25, with an opening ceremony aboard a Brim Explorer ship and in collaboration with the jewelry firm Josephine Studio. Sailing through the Oslo Fjord, the runway made a statement of intent: “This is who we are, and this is what we can offer to the fashion world.”

A moment from the Pearl Octopuss.y fashion show at the Munch Museum in Oslo.
A moment from the Pearl Octopuss.y fashion show at the Munch Museum in Oslo. – Oslo Runway

The second highlight of the first day was a fashion show on Monday afternoon at the Munch Museum in Oslo. The imposing building, inaugurated in 2021 and designed by Spanish architect Juan Herreros, began construction in 2015. It houses more than 26,000 works by the Norwegian expressionist painter Edvard Munch, author of “The Scream” and “The Sun.”

The latter was precisely the inspiration for the “Solen” collection by Pearl Octopuss, which includes jewellery, accessories, handbags, and statement garments such as blazers. “The Sun,” and the aptly named Monumental Room that hosts it, served as the backdrop for the collection’s spring-summer 2026 debut, accompanied by live electronic music performed by Gundelach.

Hoops, oversized pearls, orange-toned pieces, and accents that echoed a sunset — including fringe detailing on bags, buttons, and belts — created a fusion of visuals and sound, resonating with the massive artworks in the room and the musical ambience.

Later that evening, Pearl Octopuss.y was awarded the Oslo Runway Tribute Award at the catwalk’s anniversary dinner. This prize recognises exceptional contributions to Norwegian fashion and has previously gone to Livid (2021), Tom Wood (2022), Envelope1973 (2023), and Norwegian Rain (2024).

Long live Nordic minimalism

If the first day of Oslo Runway focused on Norway’s breathtaking nature and the legacy of one of its most famous artists, the second day brought a more intimate mood.

Envelope1976, minimalism by flag
Envelope1976, minimalism by flag – Ole Martin Halvorsen, Oslo Runway

Envelope1976 showcased its designs in a stark minimalist space, where stools were practically the only décor — aside from the morning sun illuminating the clean tailoring. The brand’s sharp, earth-toned silhouettes spoke for themselves.

“We are minimalists with a distinctive touch. With this collection, we aimed to return to our roots and revive some of our signature pieces. Tailoring is essential to our brand, and we added new colours to designs that have been with us for several seasons,” explained Celine Aagaard, co-founder of Envelope1976 with Pia Nordskaug.

Satin, leather, and shearling featured heavily in the lineup, alongside reversible designs and layered looks. “For all the suits, we use Italian wool. We produce in Istanbul with the same supplier we’ve worked with since the beginning. Some fabrics are made there, while others are made in Italy. The shearling comes from China, the leather from India, and our swimsuits — though not shown today — are made in Portugal,” Aagaard said.

At its headquarters, with the hum of sewing machines setting the tone, ESP presented its fifteenth collection, combining spring-summer 2026 garments made from deadstock with a capsule of locally recycled wool.

A moment from the ESP fashion show.
A moment from the ESP fashion show. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway

“Through NF&TA’s ‘Innovating Norwegian Wool’ project, and in collaboration with Norsk Tekstilgjenvinning, Selbu Spinneri, and Gudbrandsdalen Uldvarefabrikk, ESP developed the first Norwegian recycled wool textile with a fully local value chain. Partnering with Manufacture Oslo, these textiles are turned into garments that combine innovation and tradition,” read the show notes. The result was a gender-inclusive selection of jackets, coats, and outerwear featuring deep lapels and waist ties, all in navy, grey, and brown — styled with football boots, including cleats.

In the inner courtyard of its offices, surrounded by red-brick buildings with an industrial past, Camila Pihl debuted her spring collection. Suede jackets, denim staples, and cotton shirts anchored the lineup. Founded in 2018 by its namesake entrepreneur, the brand now operates four stores in Oslo, Bergen, and Trondheim, and is sold in 125 multi-brand outlets, 25 of which are located abroad. It expects to surpass NOK 100 million (€8.5 million) in sales by 2025.

Christian Aks — guided by the concept of “sculpted simplicity for the modern closet” — presented “Tide,” inspired by the stillness and strength of the sea. Soft and structured pieces in silk organza, cotton, and textured sheepskin captured that duality.

Christian Aks fashion show in Oslo
Christian Aks fashion show in Oslo – Elisabeth Heier, Oslo Runway

In a more urban key, F5 Collections (also featuring a live musical performance) added a more urban feel, showcasing printed pieces — including Vichy and Klein blue — that broke from the prevailing minimalist aesthetic. A live musical performance rounded out the show.

Cohmé Atelier and Wilhelmina, selected for the Oslo Runway NEXT program, took to the catwalk with glittering designs. Cohmé embraced 1930s cabaret glam with sequins and vintage silhouettes. Pia Tjelta closed the evening with a performance at the Nationaltheatret, revealing a collection of romantic satin gowns, embroidered lace dresses, and velvet pinstripe suits, all set against the grandeur of the ceiling paintings.

From timeless basics to knitwear as national pride

On day three, the official fashion shows wrapped with a celebration of refined wardrobe staples. Julie Josephine presented her famously crisp basics in a gallery, accompanied by shirts and tees worn by clients for over nine years — still in perfect condition.

Kari Traa transformed Ekebergparken into her catwalk.
Kari Traa transformed Ekebergparken into her catwalk. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway

In Ekebergparken — a hilltop park filled with sculptures — Kari Traa brought bold colour to a grey morning. The sportswear brand founded by the Olympic skier incorporated shades of pink into its performance layers, leggings, down jackets, and heavy wool sweaters. Wool and knitwear are national icons in Norway, and Traa offered a modern, functional twist.

Ella & Il returned to clean lines and natural textures for its first show at Oslo Runway. The spring-summer 2026 presentation included resortwear, fringe details, sage knits, and linen pieces.
Woodling also focused on knitwear, showcasing alpaca wool and 3D knits in butter-yellow — a shade still trending for spring — across long dresses, mini skirts, and sheer tops.

Woodling's delicate knitted designs,
Woodling’s delicate knitted designs, – Oslo Runway

Wilhelmina’s deconstructed pieces and Hartlino’s 2026 eveningwear followed. Mads Søreide, now design lead at Hartlino and founder of Cohmé, created polished silhouettes: sequined gowns, strapless styles, and men’s velvet blazers paired with satin shirts.

The official presentations closed with a dinner hosted by O.A.D. outside the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. The knitwear brand, rooted in Devold of Norway (est. 1853), honours its textile legacy with Norwegian wool, yak, cashmere, and mohair. While production is centred in Italy, the brand is expanding its made-in-Norway range, including hats and mittens.

“We’ve focused on consolidating in Norway. We distribute through 25 stores nationally and sell online across Europe. Now, we’re expanding abroad — entering stores in Denmark and Switzerland. With 45% growth this year, we’re building a future-proof company,” said CEO Marianne Strand.

The knitwear, a national emblem, is O.A.D.'s raison d'être.
The knitwear, a national emblem, is O.A.D.’s raison d’être. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway

A decade that has also transformed the city

The 10 years since Oslo Runway launched have also seen the city undergo significant evolution. In addition to architectural landmarks like the Munch Museum, Oslo’s Promenaden district has emerged as a retail hub — stretching from Akersgata to Karl Johans Gate.

“Over the past decade, we’ve focused on building not just a district, but a fashion community in Oslo,” said Anette Lund, CEO and portfolio director of Promenaden Oslo. “At first, international brands asked where Oslo even was. That’s no longer the case.”

She continued, “Bringing luxury brands here took years of planning, dialogue, and persistence. It’s changed how Oslo is perceived globally. Today, it’s one of the most visible new fashion cities — and that visibility fuels growth and recognition for Norwegian fashion.”

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Desigual partners with London-based designer Masha Popova to launch capsule collection

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January 19, 2026

Barcelona-based label Desigual is expanding its line-up of international collaborations. The label has unveiled a new collection co-created with Masha Popova, a Ukrainian designer based in London, resulting in an offering that blends Mediterranean spirit with a distinctly London edge and will be available from February 17 across all the company’s physical retail outlets and online.

The new capsule created with Masha Popova will be available from 17 February in stores and online – Desigual

The collection has been conceived as a dialogue between Desigual’s archive and the bold, sensual, and rebellious aesthetic that defines Popova’s creative universe. The pieces reinterpret the brand’s bohemian essence through a contemporary lens, combining craftsmanship, a raw attitude and a confident, modern visual language; garments include hand-finished denim, fitted silhouettes, and avant-garde pieces.

This launch comes at a strategic moment for Desigual in the UK market. In 2025, the company posted double-digit digital growth in the UK, with a 16% increase in turnover, cementing it as one of the brand’s most promising European markets. At present, the brand operates in the country exclusively via its e-commerce platform, with no brick-and-mortar network.

Furthermore, through this new alliance, Desigual reaffirms its commitment to collaborating with international brands and designers as a driver of creative renewal and global reach. In this vein, the label has recently developed capsules with the French label Egonlab and Botter, founded by designers Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter in Amsterdam.

Founded in 1984 by Thomas Meyer, Desigual is a Barcelona-based fashion company with more than 280 company-owned stores and a presence in 107 markets across ten sales channels. On the economic front, the company closed the 2024 financial year with turnover of €332 million, supported especially by its international expansion and the growth of its digital business.

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Galeries Lafayette appoints Victoria Dartigues as buying director for womenswear and leather goods

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January 19, 2026

Alix Morabito, director of assortment and buying at Galeries Lafayette, is rounding out her team within a newly restructured buying division. To lead buying for the pivotal womenswear and leather goods segment, the Parisian department store has turned to a rival currently in the midst of a revamp: La Samaritaine.

Victoria Dartigues has been appointed Director of Womenswear and Leather Goods Buying at Galeries Lafayette – David Atlan/ Galeries Lafayette

Victoria Dartigues has taken up her new post after four years heading buying and merchandising at LVMH’s Right Bank department store in Paris. Since 2019, she has been with DFS, the luxury group’s duty-free subsidiary that spearheaded the Paris project, and played a key role in the relaunch of La Samaritaine.

For Victoria Dartigues, a graduate of HEC Montréal and IFM, this appointment at Galeries Lafayette is something of a homecoming: her first experience in Parisian department stores was as a buying assistant at Galeries Lafayette. She went on to join rival Printemps as a womenswear buyer in 2012.

After more than six years at the Printemps group, where she rose to head of merchandising overseeing the designer offer, she spent a stint at Kenzo before moving to DFS in 2019.

“A specialist in the multi-brand and department store sector, she has built strong relationships with brands over the years, curating assortments and leading negotiations,” Galeries Lafayette said in a press release. The group added that her appointment completes a buying leadership team comprising Alice Feillard for menswear and footwear, Pascale Leboutet-Reberat for beauty, and Violaine Moreau, who has been promoted to head up childrenswear, home and luggage.

“This new structure addresses the strategic challenge of asserting Galeries Lafayette’s commercial and creative vision through an increasingly exclusive offering,” the group said in its press release.

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London retail property giant GPE names new finance chief

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January 19, 2026

Great Portland Estates (GPE) has appointed a new chief financial officer, with Jayne Cottam joining the London-centric commercial property firm’s board from 16 March.

Great Portland Estates

She succeeds Nick Sanderson who is stepping down as GPE’s chief financial & operating officer to take up the position of chief financial officer at British real estate services company Savills from 30 January. 

Cottam “brings significant financial leadership and operational experience” stock market-listed GPE said on announcing her appointment to the London Stock Exchange Monday (19 January). 

Most recently, she served as CFO of healthcare property company Assura from September 2017 to December 2025.

GPE chair William Eccleshare said: “Jayne brings a wealth of skills, knowledge and experience which will be invaluable to the board and management team as we progress our growth agenda.” And CEO Toby Courtauld added: “Jayne brings an excellent blend of financial, operational and leadership qualities with the right values for GPE’s culture.”

She joins at a time when analysts are noting that GPE continues to outperform the broader UK property sector, boosted not only by slowly increasing demand for London offices but also via its catchment area of prime prime West End retail sites that continue to be in high demand as the company continues to capture the ‘flight to quality trend’.

The company’s most recent investor commentary reiterated “stable-to-improving” leasing momentum across its core West End and City portfolio.

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