Belgian designer Glenn Martens is Maison Margiela’s current creative director – H&M
Martens and Ann-Sofie Johanson, H&M’s head of womenswear design, describe the collection as youthful, fresh, “ingenious and fun”, something evident in the way the designer offers different versions of a bag, a jacket or boots, pushing their boundaries- scrunching and manipulating them to transform the pieces and create new designs.
In a video conference, Glenn Martens described them as “small works of art, convertible pieces that change their structure”, accentuating or concealing whichever part of the body you prefer, thanks to metallic finishes and concealed wiring. The idea is clear: they’re designed to take you “from the office to the nightclub. You can be a lumberjack by day and a very different person by night,” he said.
The collection, which goes on sale on October 30, pays tribute to Martens’ career as a designer and his work for Y/Project, the French label created by Yohan Serfaty, now defunct, where, over twelve years, he developed a highly personal and eclectic aesthetic.
From that period, Martens revives invisible straps and roomy, suggestive T-shirt dresses for this new capsule line. “It’s quite a flirtatious collection that can be as sexy as you want it to be,” the designer notes.
His nod to British fashion aims to sit within a style cliché that he simultaneously subverts.
With that in mind, he has created pieces for an imaginary family- a British king and queen- portrayed by actress Joanna Lumley, 79 (“The Wolf of Wall Street” and “Amandaland”), and actor Richard E. Grant, 68 (“Persuasion” and “The Lesson”).
“We couldn’t include King Charles and Camilla- they weren’t available,” says Glenn Martens wryly, adding that his intention is for the garments to be accessible: pieces with a hint of Highland style and a preppy touch that “make people happy, help them feel strong and empowered, and reflect who they want to be”.
The designer describes a “fun, very crazy” campaign, with striking images, such as boots that reach up to the groin but can be folded over themselves to reduce their length.
He opts for a classic wardrobe- trench coats, quilted jackets and tartan- using H&M basics as a starting point and reinventing them. Denim is one of the key fabrics, with naturally worn-in creases achieved “just as in a typical washing process”. “It was amazing!” he says.
For Martens, the bag is definitely the key piece in this capsule. “I’ve always loved accessories because through them you can represent the brand.”
For this collaboration, the brand gave him carte blanche, and they note that they have been able to distinguish between a good idea on paper and a good option for the brand.
“It was a question of balance,” says Ann-Sofie Johanson, who adds that their goal with this initiative is to find someone who fits the brand’s values. “It’s one of the most creative collaborations we’ve done,” she says.
For Martens, it has been an “exciting” project- a love letter to his personal trajectory- with designs that recall earlier stages “that I will never do again,” he concludes.
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Retailers Destination XL Group and FullBeauty Brands agreed to merge, creating a bigger player in the size-inclusive apparel market, the companies announced on Thursday.
DXL Big + Tall
The combined company generates approximately $1.2 billion of annual net sales, and expects cost synergies of $25 million by 2027.
FullBeauty shareholders are set to own 55% of the combined company while Destination XL (DXL) shareholders will own 45%.
The plus-size clothing market broadly has grown amid a drive for more body positivity and even users of GLP-1 weight loss drugs like Ozempic are ready to spend on apparel as they drop clothing sizes, industry analysts have said. However, the risk to DXL and FullBeauty is that customers will lose enough weight that they have to shop elsewhere.
DXL operates over 250 stores across the DXL and Casual Male XL banners, which sell clothes for big and tall men. FullBeauty has a portfolio of over a dozen plus-size brands including Cuup, Woman Within and Roaman’s.
DXL shares had fallen around 45% year-to-date as its total revenue has also declined year-over-year. Its shares closed at $1.56 on Thursday for an $84 million market capitalization. FullBeauty emerged from bankruptcy in 2019 and Oaktree Capital Management is its largest investor.
The combined company will be better positioned to meet customers, including those using GLP-1 medications, at every stage of their weight-fluctuation journey through offerings such as DXL’s FiTMAP and FullBeauty’s free exchange program, the companies said.
The transaction is expected to close in the first half of 2026, subject to customary closing conditions and approval by DXL shareholders.
Karl Lagerfeld has revealed plans to open a haute gamme apartment building in Lisbon and new residences in the Gulf, the latest expansion of the designer brand’s growing real estate realm.
Karl Lagerfeld CEO Pier Paolo Righi (left) andAARK Developers chairman, Rahul Kumar Gupta – Courtesy
Entitled “Karl Lagerfeld Residences Lisboa”, it will consist of 10 luxurious apartments in central Lisbon, a brand-new building expressing many of the late designer’s ideas on the art of living.
“We insisted on calling it Karl Lagerfeld Residences Lisboa, not Lisbon, to stay true the natural name of the city. This architectural project is from the inside out, not outside in,” insisted Pier Paolo Righi, CEO of Karl Lagerfeld.
Located at 48-50 Rua Braamcamp, it is quipped with a Bauhaus-style garage; clean modernist entrance; and wellness that features spa, sauna and treatment room – all designed to capture Karl’s famous polymath style. There is even an underwater sound system in the pool, like the one Karl installed in his Biarritz hose.
“Our goal is to take the Karl Lagerfeld legacy into the future. What he stood for and still stands for – the personality of a polymath, fashion designer, photographer, and expert of architectural space,” added Righi, in an exclusive interview inside the brand’s Paris HQ in Saint Germain.
Inside the Karl Lagerfeld Residences Lisboa – Courtesy
In parallel, the house announced that it had signed a deal with AARK Developers to develop Karl Lagerefld Residences, a beachfront residential project in Ras Al Khaimah (RAK), ideally located on Al Marjan Island.
Valued at over $1.4 billion, this iconic ultra-luxury waterfront development is set to redefine beachfront living in the UAE and is scheduled for completion in 2028, delivering a collection of 663 sea view residences. The residences range from one to four bedrooms, with select residences offering private pools.
The new building in Portugal also bears the imprint of Caroline Lebar, Karl’s right-hand woman for some 40 years at his own house. These residences also incorporate brand new sustainable technology, something Karl would have loved,” noted Lebar, holding up a square of photovoltaic glass from Saint Gobain. It will be used on the exterior walls of balconies on every floor, which each feature splash pools.
“The photovoltaic glass will create energy to light up each apartment. That’s beauty and sustainability amplifying each other. Karl would have loved that. Nothing he liked more than finding new solutions for everything,” smiled Lebar, noting that staff will also be attired by Karl Lagerfeld. The project is a licensing agreement with Overseas, a local developer, and with The One Atelier, an architectural project that has been working so closely with the fashion house. The 10 apartments vary in size from 230 to 380 square-meters.
Inside the Karl Lagerfeld Residences Lisboa – Courtesy
“We suspect buyers will be from an international audience, as Lisbon is an attractive place for real estate right now,” added Righi, who declined to provide a price estimate. But considering that high-end real estate is selling from €20,000 up per square meter in that district, this is a €60 million-plus project. The building, which is scheduled to open in January 2028, carefully dovetails with the local vernacular and buildings beside it.
On one side a landmark 1972 department store, on the other a ’60s structure with hints of Bauhaus. Their difference in heights is bridged with staggered columns, while the residences are finished in the shade of red Karl used to finish off his brilliant sketches. The façade is completed in ceramic tiles – another link to Portugal. And to Iberia, since the same tiles we will used in a KL project Marbella.
Elsewhere on planet earth, construction work is advanced on Lagerfeld residence in Dubai, due to open in 2027, while a third project is well advanced in Marbella, with the first of five luxe villas due for occupancy in summer 2026.
The whole roll into real estate began with the The Karl Lagerfeld in Macao, a pure hotel with no dual use residential element that blends rock chic and Chinoiserie.
“It has a very high occupancy rate since it opened three years ago. We love that the consumer loves us. It has been first ranked on Trip Advisor this year out of 120 hotels in Macao!” enthused the CEO.
Inside the Karl Lagerfeld Residences Lisboa – Courtesy
All a great testament to the pulling power of Karl’s name and what he stood for; and an expression of his wide-ranging DNA which few brands can tap into and translate it into cool spaces.
In terms of fashion, Karl Lagerfeld overall has been, “growing decently in single digits” in 2025, said Righi, cautioning that growth is “harder earned than ever.”
The house has been skilfully riding out the currently bearish international fashion market, aided by investment in KL Jeans. With a local partner, the brand opened 12 new stores this year, particularly in Latin America, in places like Chile, Panama and Ecuador.
“There is a big Lagerfeld family in Latin America. All these stores are working very, very well. We plan to open the same number next year in the region,” he noted.
“I think there is a very good halo effect on the brand; as it can tap into his different points of interests. And that makes people realize Karl was so much more than a fashion designer. He could touch so many different socioeconomic groups – from KL to Chanel, from Fendi to H&M. Plus, the unexpected choice of working with Paris Hilton in our campaigns has worked very well. It’s very Karl. He would have picked the unexpected candidate,” noted Righi.
The sharply shot black-and-white fall 2025 ads riff on the house’s neo-expressionist codes, the mood aided by the fact that unbeknownst to the house, Paris has been a major Lagerfeld fan for many years.
“We visited her new her place three weeks ago in Beverly Hills. She has just bought her neighbor Mark Wahlberg’s house and moved her furniture right next door. Anyway, she showed us photos of her dad and kids in Karl Lagerfeld. She has been buying the brand for years, which feels special and genuine,” mused Righi, looking dapper in a pale gray chalk-stripe gangster/banker suit.
High-tax Italy plans to apply a levy on shipments from non-EU countries worth up to 150 euros ($176.31) and intends to double its tax on financial transactions, as Rome seeks ways to fund costly budget amendments, official documents have shown.
Reuters
The contribution on low-value postal packages, set at 2 euros for each shipment, is expected to garner 122.5 million euros next year and 245 million in both 2027 and 2028, according to parliamentary documents seen by Reuters.
With this move, which is in line with a proposal being discussed at European Union level, Italy targets online platforms such as Shein and Temu and aims to protect its fashion industry from low-cost foreign imports mostly from China.
EU customs authorities handled around 4.6 billion low-value packages bought online in 2024, 91% of them coming from China and double the 2023 figure, latest data shows.
The government also intends to increase Italy’s tax weighing on the transfer of shares and other financial instruments to 0.4% from a current 0.2%, in a move that should yield an additional 337 million euros from next year.
Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni’s government forecast in September that the politically sensitive tax burden — the level of taxes and social contributions as a proportion of GDP — is expected to rise to 42.8% this year from 42.5% in 2024, among the highest levels in developed economies.