As the world’s leading store buyers continue to analyse the key messages from Fashion Month so far, Simon Longland of Harrods has delivered his verdict.
The luxury department store’s fashion director of buying has given a thumbs-up to Fendi from Milan and London’s Erdem.
He said that “Fendi stood out as the highlight of Milan Fashion Week, delivering a collection that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication. The house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear frontrunner of the season”.
As for Erdem, he thinks “London Fashion Week AW25 was a study in refined impact, with Erdem delivering the season’s most exceptional collection — its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum”.
In terms of the fashion show event itself, he was also impressed by Dolce & Gabbana, which “mastered the art of spectacle, with models seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, where a live DJ set brought the energy of the show to the surrounding crowds. This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience”.
The key trends he’s focusing on from Milan include shaggy textures. “Shearling and faux fur dominated the runways, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings, and trims on trousers and skirts,” he said.
He also took note of the muted palette with a pop of red.
“Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest colour story. Where designers did embrace colour, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep Bordeaux,” he explained.
Longland noted the leather and suede resurgence too “as a natural complement to the shaggy trend… and not just restricted to outerwear pieces”.
Oversized knitwear was also key with “chunky, enveloping knitwear add[ing] to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury”.
But his must-have piece for AW25 from Milan was “a beautifully crafted shearling coat” that he thinks “is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance”.
His key themes from London meanwhile included “green in its many shades — mint, apple, grass — woven through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took centre stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels.
“A 1960s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while colour palettes softened — muted yet intentional tones defining Roksanda, Erdem, and Edeline Lee”.
As with Milan, he saw outerwear as a key “statement of both function and indulgence” but here it seems to have been less about shaggy textures than luxe details, colour and functionality.
Longland liked “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware [that] elevated utility into luxury. Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements. The iconic check appeared with subtle restraint, reinforcing heritage through quiet sophistication”.
He thought art “left its mark” too, particularly in Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie that “brought portraiture to fabric”, while SS Daley “channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork, and Roksanda reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form”.
Overall in London, he thought the season “was about restraint and impact — where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever”.
Wednesday this week will see Icelandic outerwear brand 66°North launching its SS25 collection ‘Blurred Seasons’. And it comes with its first Chris Burkard design collab and the new Helgafell running line, based on the UK-originated activity of fell running. There’s also a supporting campaign.
66°North
For SS25, 66°North said it “exports its blurred season dressing beyond Iceland to the global community of adventurers, travellers, and everyday commuters experiencing a wide variety of climates and lifestyles”. The “protective layers provide the foundation to the entire collection”, with the brand’s signature shell jackets at the forefront, such as its most technical Hornstrandir Gore-Tex Pro and “everyday go-to” Polartec Snæfell, while also offering lighter shell layers for high summer.
As mentioned, this season, 66°North introduces its first design collaboration with long-term brand ambassador, photographer, and Iceland-based explorer, Chris Burkard. The collection includes various multi-use jackets and shorts “inspired by [his] love of movement”.
And the company said that “tapping into the overarching theme of blurred seasons, the collection provides layers you can count on in the mountains, from the unexpected storm to a cold snap in the valley”.
Also newly developed for SS25 is the brand’s new Helgafell running line, designed in partnership with UK-based Rory Griffin, the trail runner and founder of Orienteer Magazine and Studio.
Helgafell is a collection “rooted in Iceland’s rugged and harsh terrain, designed with functionality at the forefront of each piece to manage weather comfortably and safely during trail runs”.
But the company said that while it’s “synonymous with Icelandic locals, it also taps into the UK and European sport of fell running”.
Born in the North of England and in Scotland, this sport — which is also known as hill running — “takes athletes and enthusiasts out into diverse terrain where they must focus on their navigational skills and preparation for the journey, with functionality first”.
So the range features “shorts with stuffable pockets and packable jackets with storage for race fuel and additional phone storage”.
The company also updated its core Straumur swim line for the season with new fabric and colour options, and its heritage ‘Kría’ capsule is also back for SS25. The collection, named after the arctic tern, dates back to the 1990s when the collection was first introduced in Iceland. This season, the inspiration comes from camping and love of the outdoors, bringing together both technical elements and lifestyle.
Local council-owned Charter Walk Shopping Centre in Burnley is welcoming a bigger, more prominent JD Sports flagship store.
Centre asset manager Addington has secured a 10-year lease for the relocated unit, moving from its current 3,973 sq ft store to an increased ground floor 5,817 sq ft with a new address taking in The Mall and adjoining Fleet Walk.
The new unit, situated opposite River Island and Superdrug, “provides an enhanced shopping experience for customers in one of the most popular stores within the scheme”, Addington said.
Works to amalgamate six vacant units for the new store are already under way, with the opening targeted for summer.
Matthew Allen Principal of Addington said: “We are delighted that JD Sports, who has been a key part of Burnley’s retail landscape for over 20 years has recommitted to the shopping centre. Occupancy across Charter Walk remains very high. By consolidating smaller units into larger, modern retail spaces, the Centre is securing the long-term presence of national retailers, enhancing the overall sustainability of Charter Walk as a thriving destination for the local community.”
JD Sports’ recommitment to the shopping centre follows on from a series of other high-profile retailers upsizing in Charter Walk, “demonstrating strong confidence in the shopping centre’s future”. They include Shoe Zone signing a five-year lease on a bigger 3,025 sq ft unit and Specsavers, signing a 10-year lease on 4,999 sq ft space, both doubling the size of their stores.
The 375,185 sq ft centre is home to other national retailers including River Island, Superdry and Boots.
Castore continues to extend its association with cricket. Already kit partner for the England and NewZealand men’s and women’s national teams, the premium sportswear brand has agreed another multi-year partnership at county level with Lancashire CCC.
It joins fellow county sides Yorkshire, Surrey, Worcestershire, Middlesex and Kent.
Under the terms of the new deal, Castore will become the official kit supplier and exclusive retail partner with the kit featuring the Lancashire red rose being worn by the Club from April. The new design will be ready in time for the Lancashire Men’s and Women’s (Lancashire Thunder) first domestic fixtures of the season.
Fans will be able to buy the new kit, which will be worn by England internationals including Jos Buttler, Sophie Ecclestone, Liam Livingstone, Saqib Mahmood and Phil Salt as well as all-time cricketing great Jimmy Anderson, via the Lancashire Webshop.
The timely association coincides with Lancashire purchasing a 70% stake in its Hundred team, Manchester Originals, who will also wear a Castore-designed kit.
Lancashire CCC’s home ground, Emirates Old Trafford, will host sides including India and South Africa against England this summer, as well as the County Championship and Vitality Blast fixtures.
Castore founding partner Tom Beahon said: “Lancashire [is] a club that is close to our hearts – especially my brother and co-founder Phil, being his former club. It is also close to our business in Manchester and we both have strong ambitions to continue to promote cricketing excellence at the elite level and through grassroots participation, particularly with Lancashire’s development at Farington due to open in 2026, with the new community cricket oval set to inspire the next generation of cricketers in the county.
“It’s a pleasure to work with Lancashire and develop our relationship with another key part of the cricketing community. We think it’s a brilliant time to be bolstering our presence in cricket, as summer approaches and the UK plays host to some incredible international fixtures before the Ashes Tour later this year.”
Founded in the Wirral in 2016 by brothers and former athletes Tom and Phil Beahon, Castore has grown to become a global brand, working with a range of the world’s most popular sports, including football, rugby and Formula One.